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My Craftsman 113.27970 table saw

cbacres

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May 28, 2010
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I picked up this saw last week and thought I'd document it's cleanup and partial restore. After getting it home, I blew the years old sawdust out, chipped the really hard stuff off and gave the points some spray lube before trying to move anything. It's amazing how smooth everything is, considering how it looks and the rust on it.
Best I can tell its a early 50's model.
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I took the belt off to check the arbor and motor shafts, all free and no slope, so don't think I'll need bearings for a while. All the angle and blade depth scales are in great shape. Knobs aren't too bad either.
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I reinstalled the belt and cranked it up, a little slow a first, but mainly to the hard spots on the belt. Came up to speed and made the blade sing.
I scraped the rust off with a 3" razor knife (thanks Outlaw)and some WD 40, came out pretty decent. Going to do a deeper clean when I pull it apart.
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After a little cleaning, the geared fence works great. I'm going to go through and de rust and paint it up. I have extensions from another saw that I bought with it to add on. I also have a nice aluminum fence and rail from a CM saw I bought last year that I'm planning on putting on.

I see why you all like these so much. It's amazing how much bigger the 1 HP motor is than an newer one is.
 
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Packard V8

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Spokane, WA
It appears you have the long table version. These were made in three table lengths. If looking for table extension wings and rip fences, it's important to know which you have and which the parts fit.

jack vines
 
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cbacres

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Jack, it's the 27" long table. The extensions I plan on using is on the table saw in the background in one of the photos.
Thanks
 

zkling

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It appears you have the long table version. These were made in three table lengths. If looking for table extension wings and rip fences, it's important to know which you have and which the parts fit.

jack vines

Kinda, only the 10" came in the standard 27" deep table, the standard 8" was 20" deep and the goofy 8" built like a 10" was 22" deep.
 

softailgarage

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Apr 20, 2011
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Bullhead City, Az.
I've restored many of these. The motor sounds fine to me. The knob (hard to tell which oine, possibly the blade angle tilt) appears bent, have removed the table and looked at the trunnion assembly?
 
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cbacres

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Softail, it cranks fine. I thought it was bent at first also.
Being you done a few, do you have a paint match for the gray?
I've seem where a few have used Valspar.
Thanks
 

MrKona

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Dec 29, 2011
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Careful if you try polishing the engine turned aluminum front panel. it scratches very easily and anything other than very fine polish will remove the turned surface. I used Brasso, a soft cloth, and a light touch and had decent results.
 
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cbacres

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Thanks for all the input so far, it'll come I handy when I get started on this.
I was planning to take the motor apart just for a close inspection and cleaning, so bearings will be checked and likley replaced.
I hope the engine turning will come out, it don't look like it needs much more than a good cleaning. I'll give the Brasso a shot.
 

CKS1955

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Careful if you try polishing the engine turned aluminum front panel. it scratches very easily and anything other than very fine polish will remove the turned surface. I used Brasso, a soft cloth, and a light touch and had decent results.

Ditto.

Be very careful, I damaged one about 5 years ago by using to aggressive polishing.

Jay
 
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jakemac

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Careful if you try polishing the engine turned aluminum front panel. it scratches very easily and anything other than very fine polish will remove the turned surface. I used Brasso, a soft cloth, and a light touch and had decent results.

I use Nevr-Dull polishing wool and have never had a problem with the turnings.
 
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cbacres

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I picked up some at Wally mart, but it different than what you have, and it's not magic!
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Tried it out on the motor wrap, it does brighten it up.
Before
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After
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This section is the top of the motor, pretty rough. I may turn wrap around when I take motor apart.
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It cleaned up, but still dull, I think it just took a lot of abuse over the years.
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jakemac

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Keep at it for a little more. When you finally get really sick and tired of working it, try a thin coat of wax and then do one last buff to get it to shine.

As you've learned, you'll wear your elbows out, but the results are better than risking something harsher on the turnings.

OBTW - Your can is the same as the blue can. Just different packaging.
 

Model A Fan

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That does look really great. Have you tried it on the metal part of the top of the saw? It looks a lot better than I thought it would come out.
 
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cbacres

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Haven't tried it on the top yet. I'll do some more this weekend.
I'm thinking the Nevr Dull may work on a lot more areas on that saw than I was expecting.
I'm still amazed on how it cleaned up the band on the motor.
I was out in the shop the other night and noticed the real dirty area on the motor had a haze, i gave it a quick buff and it shined even more than the last picture I posted.
 

jakemac

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Yeah, I've had that haze show up a day later as well. It's just the protective coating it leaves. If there's too much left on, it hazes up. Like you found out, another buffing brightens things up.
 

jakemac

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Well, it took someone long enough to read my dirty little mine. I should have guessed that it would be you Outlaw. :evil:
 
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cbacres

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Now the the "smell" is in the air, Tampa is sure to pick up the scent and be by.

Haven't had time to get anymore done and I'll get to hit the top of the table again. We had heavy fog and everything under the roof was wet. I'll try out the magic cloth see how that does.
 

shortykorte

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A little late to this. Besides regular car wax, Nerv-dull was the first cleaner/polish I learned about. It was some pretty good stuff and need to add a can. Looks like Eagle brought them out?
 
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