My Dad Dropped This Off Today

[drivesitfar]

AMC: can you post up some more pictures of your vise and the pin? more than likely the pin isn't threaded unless it has a couple flat sides on it to put a wrench on. some vises did leave the factory with threaded pins and the only ones I can recall that did were Wiltons. some owners did like to make threaded pins after they lost one or to prevent from losing one as easily.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Measure the hole on the bottom, the top will be larger if it is tapered. People have suggested a threaded pin but I don't ever recall actually seeing one in this forum.
I was the same way when turning the nut and it gave a pop and was free. If it starts pushing the top and bottom apart it means the pin is stuck in the upper part of the swivel. In this case you need to put a large clamp on it to keep from breaking something on the inside.

The Wilton pin is only threaded to hold the hex nut. It is tapered as you can see in the picture.

 

[73AMC]

Here are some pictures. Notice all the colors lol. I have tried heat, jack nut, and tapping on the pin. The jaw marks on the pin are from me trying to turn it with a pipe wrench.

 

[KMScott]

Heat and pressure from the jack screw will pop the pin out. The blue propane bottle is not enough heat, I still see paint on the vise, gotta get some real heat. The paint will burn off. remember heat expands the casting, do not heat the steel pin, heating the cast will expand and eventually break the rust seal from the 3 degree taper on the pin. With the pin all jacked up maybe drill a 1/4 hole through the center to relieve some pressure. I have a drawing of your pin if you need it. Good luck.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Unless I haven't had enough coffee yet that jack set up doesn't look like it will work. It looks like it will just twist around in place. I think you need to replace the bottom piece with a hex head bolt so you can hold it with a wrench and turn the coupling with another wrench to expand it.
Am I missing something ??

 

[73AMC]

It's def. Expanding lol.

 

[73AMC]

Still haven't gotten the pin out.

 

[KMScott]

Still haven't gotten the pin out.

I wrote a blog about taper pins and maybe it might help in your pin removal. Look HERE. I will add more to the post when I can remember more and remove a few stuck ones I have to restore.

73AMC, You need more heat and the jack setup assembled correctly. The pic you added is not correct. Good luck and do not give up.

 

[73AMC]

Had the acetylene on it for 10 minutes and I can't expand it anymore.

 

[KMScott]

Gonna have to drill a hole through the center, 7/16 diameter max. This will relieve the pressure. I had to do this once to. I added a drawing of your pin so you can make another. Keep us posted. Good luck.

 

[73AMC]

Feel like I just won the Daytona 500 lol

 

[Citizen4]

I have been keeping tabs on this thread and I am happy you got the stubborn SOB out.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

The battle isn't over yet. You have to get the swivel moving.

 

[73AMC]

It moves with a hammer. Needs lube.

 

[Craptain]

Well done. That is a job I have to look forward to.
Good luck with the rest of the disassembly.

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk

 

[Carla]

Feel like I just won the Daytona 500 lol

Well, congrats on getting that rusted/stuck pin out...... : )

(been there, done that)

There is a really correct way to make up the replacement taper pin, but it is a bit tedious, and assumes you have, or can borrow the use of, a good lathe, and a Bridgeport class vertical mill, and a no. 2 (or maybe a 3, depending on the size of the vise) Morse taper reamer.

The 'finishing touch' after all else has been done, is to set up the assembled vise (except for the swivel base) in the Bridgie, with the jaws clamped together as hard as may be reasonably done.

Sweep the existing hole central with the spindle, and bore to suit the small end of the reamer. Using a centre-point in the spindle to keep the reamer aligned, ream the hole full depth of the casting. (mark the reamer with a bit of blue and a scribe-line for depth to just clear the movable jaw beam).

Chuck up a 2 (or 3, as may be) Morse taper drill in the lathe, and set the taper attachment, or compound, whichever you use, to a running zero on the drill shank, which gives you the correct taper setting.

Turning the taper-pin is obvious. Common mild steel will be quite adequate.

I like to drill/tap the pin, and fit a small forged eye-bolt, then weld or braze the eye-bolt to the pin, and blend the weld/braze nicely 'just for looks'. Having the small ring on the pin makes it easy to loosen the pin with a drift or a suitable scrap of round stock when moving the jaw is desired (no pipe wrench/vise-grip marks on the pin, when it gets 'stuck' a bit, as it eventually will.)

cheers

Carla

 

[Craptain]

I like that idea Carla. I have yet to start on my new pin but now it will definitely have a "ring pull" on it.

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk

 

[73AMC]

What's the hot truck to get the swivel working without a hammer? Lol.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

You will need to drive the pin out that holds the swivel jaw in place. It is usually full of rust on the underside of the jaw and top of the main housing. The pin could be worn or slightly bent, I would put a new one in to prevent possible binding of the old one in a different position if reused.

 

[73AMC]

Did that already

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Maybe I missed some of the disassembly ? There is a 5/16" round pin that goes through the housing from side to side. It must be removed to separate the swivel part from the main body.

 

[Carla]

Maybe I missed some of the disassembly ? There is a 5/16" round pin that goes through the housing from side to side. It must be removed to separate the swivel part from the main body.

The cross-pin retaining the swivelling jaw is a feature of the older Parker vises, and, of course, must be driven out to remove the jaw, but most of the other makes of vises which have the swivel back jaw simply have matching radii in the rear jaw body, and the jaw itself, so that the jaw comes free when swivelled all the way to one side.

Many of the older swivelling jaw vises are found with the jaw well rusted in place, so one must use a penetrant such as Kroil oil (or equivalent), and drive the jaw sidewise, back and forth, a little at a time until the oil and rust form a 'rust slurry' which will emerge from the joint between the parts.

Sometimes heating the assembly, then allowing it to cool, will help. Usually, the best tool for moving the jaw is a block of hardwood (to protect the jaw casting from being scarred), and a 4lb hand hammer, swung with vigour.

cheers

Carla

 

[GETRIDAONE]

I was thinking American Scale and not American Chain Co. The former uses a cross pin to secure the swivel post.
As Carla has suggested just keeping working it back and forth with lubricate until it comes all the way out.

 

[73AMC]

So if I keep tapping it to one side, the swivel jaw will come off?

 

[GETRIDAONE]

It should look similar to this Prentiss. The top view when swiveled is where this one will move forward and come out. Keep at it, it will loosen up eventually.

 

[73AMC]

What or how do you recommend I address the 4 broken bolts that hold the jaw pads on.