My Dad Dropped This Off Today
- Thread starter 73AMC
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**** that looks like square thread. That's going to be a problem. Square threads is old technology that was superseded by Acme threads because square is hard to machine.
I can find no sources for square thread nuts or taps. Maybe one of the machinist guys on here has an idea.
There is not a huge amount of pressure on that collar since it's function is to push the slide open, not clamp down. You could make a collar block and pour bearing babbit around the threads. Cut the slot afterwards. It would look the most original.
You could put the main screw on a lathe and cut the last part that sticks though the collar down until no threads were showing. Thread that for a smaller size collar in standard or ACME threads.
You could drill a hole in the bottom of the dynamic so you can put a standard front mounted collar on.
Nothing easy but that vise is worth saving.
I can find no sources for square thread nuts or taps. Maybe one of the machinist guys on here has an idea.
There is not a huge amount of pressure on that collar since it's function is to push the slide open, not clamp down. You could make a collar block and pour bearing babbit around the threads. Cut the slot afterwards. It would look the most original.
You could put the main screw on a lathe and cut the last part that sticks though the collar down until no threads were showing. Thread that for a smaller size collar in standard or ACME threads.
You could drill a hole in the bottom of the dynamic so you can put a standard front mounted collar on.
Nothing easy but that vise is worth saving.
KMScott
Well-known member
Hey bluebolt and 73amc. This is what I came up with if I had this vise. I would duplicate the rear collar and try to cut the 1:3 threads on a CNC mill or lathe. You really do not need a full depth of thread. Hard to find a lathe that goes down to 3 threads per inch. Blue had good ideas and Larry too. If you could cut these threads then creating a collar like the original is the way to go. The collar is an excellent adjustment for the backlash. I made a quick drawing with out seeing what your back of the dynamic jaw support looked like. Not original looking but made so you can adjust the collar. Nice vise. Good luck
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AndrewDouglasBird
Well-known member
Why not just use a smooth bore clamp? I doubt you would hurt the threads with one, and even if you did a bit, they aren't used right at the end anyway.
I think this is what we're going to do. My friend Jay is an old school machinist and loves this kind of stuff. If not him, my father in law is an retired Beth steel machinist, he was able to buy all his equipment for penny's when they closed. We talked last night
drivesitfar
Well-known member
73: this picture might help you if you can see the nut holding the end of the main screw to the dynamic jaw. it's a L.M. & V vise from the early 1900's. i have it's bigger brother that needs that back nut and the inside vise nut too and one day i might get to working on it and restoring this blue one properly because it came to me like this.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
BB: the blue small vise is buried and that's all the pictures i have. i'm guessing square threads like it's bigger brother and here are pictures of the 6 inch wide jaw 150 pound L. M. & V. vise. KM had a great post on threads maybe 18 months ago on the big vise thread and maybe the 101 thread too showing the different types of threads.
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Sorry to leave you guys hanging on this one. Wasnt a priority at the time so I was able to drop the vice off with my buddy Jay who is a machinist and told him to take a look at it when he gets some time.
Needless to say I am so excited! After hours of research trying to come up with what type of thread it was (still not certain), he machined me a collar with thrust washers.
It works flawless, and doesnt look out of place.
Now, how do I go about getting that pin out of the static jaw?
He did it for a case of Hamm's
Needless to say I am so excited! After hours of research trying to come up with what type of thread it was (still not certain), he machined me a collar with thrust washers.
It works flawless, and doesnt look out of place.
Now, how do I go about getting that pin out of the static jaw?
He did it for a case of Hamm's
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crguy
Well-known member
Great job, and nice weld!
GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
Sorry to leave you guys hanging on this one. Wasnt a priority at the time so I was able to drop the vice off with my buddy Jay who is a machinist and told him to take a look at it when he gets some time.
Needless to say I am so excited! After hours of research trying to come up with what type of thread it was (still not certain), he machined me a collar with thrust washers.
It works flawless, and doesnt look out of place.
Now, how do I go about getting that pin out of the static jaw?
He did it for a case of Hamm's
If it was mine I would start with complete disassemble of the vise. The swivel pin is most likely tapered and will have to be knocked or pressed out from the bottom. I think you mentioned the slide would not come out of the main body. The black spray bomb paint and what other layers of paint ? are covering up all the rust underneath.
It would compliment your friends great work on the collar to do a full restoration of the vise.
If you just striped the paint and got the rust off you could coat it with boiled linseed oil to keep the rust from coming back. Check the thread "vise repair" in this section for info and tips on restoration.
He did it for a case of Hamm's
You weren't kidding when you said old school. I didn't realize they were still making that stuff. Tell your buddy Jay, nice job.
longlivepunk
Well-known member
That might be a Brown & Sharp thread, it was a 29 degree included angle, so it would put those 12 degree angles closer to 14.5. With wear and old loose tolerances for making a vise (not exactly a lathe lead-screw, a little slop wouldn't hurt) maybe that's what they were shooting for back in the day? Either way, the collar looks great! Looking forward to seeing what you turn this old beast into!
What are you using for penetrating oil ? I'd try some Kroil if you have it, if not, it's a good time to get some.
GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
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shedfullatools
Well-known member
Thats probably what I would do
That method has yet to fail me and besides its easy enough to replace a bolt if you don't want to put the welded one back on...454ragtop
Well-known member
drag link socket.
Farmall450
Well-known member
Kudos to you, your dad rocks!
drivesitfar
Well-known member
AMC: I need one of those for my big L. M. & V vise I posted earlier in the thread and also a vise nut in case your friend wants to make one up for some cash to ship me one. my screw might be a big bigger than yours and expensive to ship so I might have to ask one of my local guys to try when I get to it.
Tell your friend he did an AWESOME JOB making that part.
all the ways mentioned are what you might need to do so you can get that screw out to remove the swivel's base. you can also dunk it in vinegar, diesel, or a mix of a few other chemicals that might free it up. just be careful using some of these especially vinegar because if you don't wash it off completely and dry it off the vinegar will keep eating the cast iron.
good luck and post more pictures as you can.
Tell your friend he did an AWESOME JOB making that part.
all the ways mentioned are what you might need to do so you can get that screw out to remove the swivel's base. you can also dunk it in vinegar, diesel, or a mix of a few other chemicals that might free it up. just be careful using some of these especially vinegar because if you don't wash it off completely and dry it off the vinegar will keep eating the cast iron.
good luck and post more pictures as you can.
Going to need some advice guys. Im not giving up on this thing. I want to bring it back! I was able to hammer the static jaw pad off, both screws were broke off flush with the jaw as you can see. The other jaw didnt seem like I could hammer it off. It looks like the dynamic jaws pad screws are also broken off.
Im not so sure about the swiveling of the static jaw. As you can see from the pictures, there is a joint, but not sure its significance.
Open to ideas guys!
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ZRX61
Well-known member
Regarding that big *** screw that you welded the nut to: I had a hell of a job removing one just like it & then discovered there was a hole drilled through the side of the vise just above the base that had a set screw in it to hold the Big *** Screw in place.... Then they filled the damn set screw with bondo so you couldn't see it. It all became apparent after blasting all the paint off it.
At this stage of the game I'd be blasting all the paint off to take a look & also make it a LOT easier to sort out the swivel jaw.
At this stage of the game I'd be blasting all the paint off to take a look & also make it a LOT easier to sort out the swivel jaw.
Hornman
Well-known member
To get the swivel jaw pin out, turn the body of the vise upside down and look through the hole for the bolt holding the base. You should be able to see the bottom of the hole for the swivel jaw pin. A 3/8" or 1/2" rod should fit to drive the pin out.
GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
Aluminum oxide works great. Picture of one in my cabinet right now.
Flip the vise upside down and look directly below the swivel pin for the hole that should open into the main housing. It could be packed with dried grease but it is there. You will be lucky if you can get a punch on it to drive it out. The other method is a jack nut made with a rod coupling and bolts.
On the stuck jaw pad try a small chisel or screw driver around the outside of the jaw.
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So I went back out... I found the access from underneath for the swivel pin. It's super easy to get at. It is in line with the swivel base screw.
Needless to say with a 5 pound sledge, a 1 foot piece of rebar and some heat and it wouldn't budge.
fullthrottle24
Well-known member
It will come out, you just have to oil, bang, repeat. I actually had two or three days till mine broke free. I was just being cautious to not break the jaw in the process. You already beat one frozen screw!
drivesitfar
Well-known member
AMC: don't beat on the swivel pin it's a slow process and it will break loose with taps and penetrant. you don't want to break the swivel jaw. if you want to put more pressure on it than tapping then make one of the little tools Getridofone just showed you in an earlier post that works.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
AMC: you'd be surprised how much pressure you can cause when you SCREW something. 
tightening that little nut and expanding it into the pin can do the trick. also it is less likely to break any of the surrounding cast on the static or swivel jaw.
good luck
tightening that little nut and expanding it into the pin can do the trick. also it is less likely to break any of the surrounding cast on the static or swivel jaw.
good luck
ZRX61
Well-known member
Until it's blasted clean you have no way to know if someone added a tack weld or two. That's one reason why ya want it cleaned up before ya ****** something up....
OK well I got what I needed and tried the jack bit...boy was I getting nervous cranking on that thing. I used a wire brush checked on my drill and brushed off all the areas around the jaw and pin.
I then thought, what if the pin is threaded?
Thoughts?
I then thought, what if the pin is threaded?
Thoughts?