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My first time what have I done wrong?

IFIXEM2

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Mar 4, 2013
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Central Illinois cornfield
This is my first time installing the main service, it's an 200amp I got cheap a little overkill but guess I got room to grow. No real inspection here they said they would give it a lookover before installing meter but I want to do it as close to national code as I can. I'm still missing a couple circuits for lights and more outlets, but welder and air compressor and some wall outlets in.

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thanks for any help
 
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Rookie2

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I've forgotten a lot.....but we were never allowed to ground the meter socket ! Two ground rods directly to the first panel. the green screw bonds the panel to ground, plus you tie the neutral to the ground bar. that's all i got.
 
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IFIXEM2

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I actually have the ground bar to the meter box ground wasn't sure if that was a good idea. But the other green wire is the welder ground to the neutral bar. And I have 2 ground rods 8 feet apart.
 

sparky36000

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Since that is a service panel board and not a sub panel, the separate equipment ground bars are not needed. Install the bonding screw in the panel and land all your bare and green grounding conductors and your neutrals on the neutral bar. Here in ND we can't land the GEC from the rods in the meter socket either, it has to be in the service disconnect enclosure. But I think the NEC still allows it(I'd have to check to be sure though). I don't think the way you have it grounded will hurt anything, just confusing because you you have some EGC's on the neutral bus and some on seperate ground bars.


Edit: Looking at it again, I'd get rid of your two ground bars and the green conductor from the ground bar out to the meter socket. It look like you have the bond screw in. Then you would be good to go from what I see.
 
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wyliesdiesels

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Green ground wire in meter can is NOT needed(suppose to be 3 wire feed from meter to first main disconnect) and many PoCos do not allow them. The bare cu wire/GEC should also be moved to the service panel.
 

Speedy Petey

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Edit: Looking at it again, I'd get rid of your two ground bars ...................
It look like you have the bond screw in. Then you would be good to go from what I see.
WHY in the world would you bother??? They are not hurting anything and are FINE, as long as you only land grounds on them.
 

rodm1

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I would recommend using some Anti-Oxidant on the wires in the meter base and on the main feed into the panel. Since replacement or repairs require the PoCos to be called out.

I wish I did that when I did my main panel years ago. Now the main lugs are corroded and should be fixed. Probable will require replacement.
 

kd3pc

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for future I would keep the circuit wire at least the length of the breaker box and run it up and back down to a breaker....this will give you plenty of length to move a breaker or expand.

looks good
 

ddawg16

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for future I would keep the circuit wire at least the length of the breaker box and run it up and back down to a breaker....this will give you plenty of length to move a breaker or expand.

looks good

Now....do not take this as the 'right' way to do it.....this is my load center before I dressed my wires....I put in what I call 'service loops' that give me enough wire to move it around if I decide to land it on a different breaker.

Also...though not real obvious....because this is my main load center...neut and ground are bonded together....

Remember....you can put 2 grounds under the same screw...but only one neutral wire per screw....

So...in my panel...I start the neutrals at the bottom and they track the breakers....hence, if I count up from the bottom to the breaker in question....I can count up the same # of neut screws to find the associated neut.....same for the ground....

This might seem silly in your panel now...but once that baby is full...it gets hard to find the matching neut....especially when your using THWN wire.

 
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IFIXEM2

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Central Illinois cornfield
It makes sense to leave some extra wire in the box, even though I doubt I'll ever fill it up. I was leaving room between breakers for an heat just because I had the space, and cutting the circuit wires short to save some $ guess now not the time to get cheap.

I did add some Anti-Oxidant to the main service wires but I think most of it ended up on me trying wrestle then around.

Guess I'll remove my green wire from the meter box to the ground bar.

Another ? is the green wire coming back from the welder ok were it is or should it be on the ground bar to make it less confusing.
 

wyliesdiesels

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It makes sense to leave some extra wire in the box, even though I doubt I'll ever fill it up. I was leaving room between breakers for an heat just because I had the space, and cutting the circuit wires short to save some $ guess now not the time to get cheap.

I did add some Anti-Oxidant to the main service wires but I think most of it ended up on me trying wrestle then around.

Guess I'll remove my green wire from the meter box to the ground bar.

Another ? is the green wire coming back from the welder ok were it is or should it be on the ground bar to make it less confusing.

Remove the bare cu wire in the meter can and put it in the main service panel. Most PoCos will not allow a GEC(grounding electrode conductor) in a meter can.

And I would move the EGC(equipment grounding conductor) thats feeding the welder, over to the ground bar. Makes things look cleaner even though in this case it doesnt matter.
 
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theoldwizard1

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It makes sense to leave some extra wire in the box ...

Boy I wish everyone did that !

At my sons house the ran 10/3 to the garage, but only wired it for 120V. Fine, but they only left about 2" of the red wire in the box !! Luckily that was just enough to splice on a pigtail so we could have 240V service in the garage. Besides the wire nut I added a tie wrap for additional strain relief.
 
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Aceman

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Service loops turn a panel into a mess. Ddawgs is a good example. 29 circuits in a brand new 20 space metermain. That would've been a good candidate for a bigger metermain or a separate meter base and 40 space panel. When I do service changes, simply by changing a panel out to one with more spaces and CUTTING all the service loops out, I can completely transform a panel. If you're leaving service loops for the future in case you need to juggle breakers, that tells me your panel isn't big enough to begin with.
 

RickP

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^^^ +1

Especially if you bring all of your feed wires into the top or bottom of the panel. Just having that length of wire is plenty if you have to move breakers around a little to add a 240v circuit.
 

ddawg16

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Here is my panel with half of the service loops cleaned up a bit. I still have the other side to do....low priority right now.

I already know what some of you are going to say next....don't bother...my inspector has already looked at it and there are no issues......

 

Charles (in GA)

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If a circuit enters from the top of the panel, run it all the way to the bottom. If it enters from the bottom, run it all the way to the top. Don't leave any loops, just do a neat job of bending and forming the wires. This way, the wires are as long as possible, and allow for future changes if needed.

Charles
 

zmaxmotorsports

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Service loops turn a panel into a mess. Ddawgs is a good example. 29 circuits in a brand new 20 space metermain. That would've been a good candidate for a bigger metermain or a separate meter base and 40 space panel. When I do service changes, simply by changing a panel out to one with more spaces and CUTTING all the service loops out, I can completely transform a panel. If you're leaving service loops for the future in case you need to juggle breakers, that tells me your panel isn't big enough to begin with.

:thumbup::beer:
 

theoldwizard1

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Here is my panel ....


I always thought that the NM had to be clamped at the box ?

I have never seen a box were all the NM comes in through a couple of large holes with plastic inserts for protection.


What are the coiled wires for ?
 

ddawg16

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I always thought that the NM had to be clamped at the box ?

I have never seen a box were all the NM comes in through a couple of large holes with plastic inserts for protection.


What are the coiled wires for ?

Those are some of the questions your not supposed to ask....

They are supported.....it's a shear wall....hence, the box has to be on the outside...I can't recess it....so those 'big holes' are basically chase ******* into the wall.

It's a common issue that we deal with in California.....while it may not be 'exactly' to code....it's about the only way you can get wires into a load center...long story...

The coiled wires are the neutrals for the AFCI's. I guess I could cut them to length....I haven't done that side yet....and to be honest....it's real LOW on the priority list.
 

Norcal

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A new panel full of twin breakers is a bad sign IMO, it was common in tract homes prior to AFCI requirements, but I don't like them unless have to use them, buy a decent size panel & no problems.

Just my opinion.
 

ddawg16

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I looked at the larger full 40 space units.....I didn't want it.

I personally like the tandem breakers....they way I have ckts arranged....nice and logical...for me.

And considering a majority of the panels I've looked in that were done by 'professionals'....well...what I see in the real world vs what is said here......big difference...

But, hey....it's the internet....has to be true.
 

sparky36000

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WHY in the world would you bother??? They are not hurting anything and are FINE, as long as you only land grounds on them.

Then move all the grounds to them and don't land some on the neutral bar and some on the EGC bars. Nothing wrong with it, but would look more like a professional installation than a homeowner installation in my opinion.:thumbup:
 
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