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My first tire machine - Questions

muckdp

Active member
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
44
I picked up this Coats 5040a a couple days ago. It spent most of its life at a high school auto shop, then a low volume general mechanic (not a tire shop) for a couple years after that. I paid $500, which based on looking for the last year seems like a good or at least fair deal in our area, since most of the used american units I've seen in the last year are just plain beat. My alternative was a chinese unit, but I figure this thing will be servicable for a very long time, and who knows about a chinese unit. But that's not why I'm Posting.

I've literally never used one of these machines before, and so I threw a 42x14" (bias ply - heavy) off road tire on it for my first attempt at removing a tire. In hindsight, that may not have been the best choice to learn on :ROFLMAO: It fit just fine in the bead breaker, and it fits just fine on the table (without hitting the upright post, etc). I was able to get the first bead removed from the wheel very easily, but when I tried removing the second bead, it kept "slipping off" of the duckhead. It's a nylon duckhead.

So my question is:
* Would I be better off with a steel (or hybrid nylon/steel) duckhead if most of my use will be offroad tires on wheels where cosmetics aren't a concern?
* Is it possible that I just need a new nylon duckhead, and sticking with nylon is better (I believe this is the original OEM duckhead that came new on the machine).
* Or is there some sort of technique thing I just need to learn? I had a lovely assistant lifting the other end of the tire the best she could, but next time I could probably lure over a drunkard or two.

FWIW, I was successfully able to very very easily remove a much smaller passenger car tire.

Finally, if you have any other advice for my low volume hobby shop usage, I'd be happy to hear it. The machine came with a beat up in line lubricator, so I ordered a new one. The return spring for the bead breaker was missing, so I threw a temporary one in for now, and ordered a replacement. In general the machine feels like it has had very little use though.
 

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djbmw

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2013
Messages
1,160
Location
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Thats a killer deal
Regarding the bead slipping off the duckhead... your pry bar should remain under the bead as you remove the tire so... it cant slip. There's lots of youtube videos showing how to mount and dismount tires (including one i made HERE).
 

Cane

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Messages
349
You might need to adjust the head.

The place I bought mine from sold it because it wouldn't do 22's. I fought it and generally wouldn't use it. I finally did some research and figured out how to properly adjust the head and it works like a dream. I don't remember exactly how now but it was basically loosen a set screw on the head and rotate to the match the wheel.
 
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muckdp

Active member
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
44
Just an update to this for anyone searching... switching to an OEM steel duckhead totally solved this, and works much better for heavier sidewall tires. I did not cheap out and buy a generic one on amazon. I bought the correct OEM coats part (8182788) - on ebay for about $100. It took me a few times to get it dialed in, and realize that the tail needed to be almost inside the lip of the wheel, but once I did that, it's much better. And even if I lock it in while it's touching an aluminum rim, the locking process raises it up like 1/8", so it doesn't rub on the wheel. I'm doing mostly offroad wheels and tires, so a scratch or two wouldn't be problem, but so far, it doesn't seem like it would scratch any wheels I've done.
 

joecon

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 4, 2010
Messages
683
If it is adjusted correctly, it does not touch the wheel.
 
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muckdp

Active member
Joined
Aug 26, 2011
Messages
44
Edit: I mistakenly posted something here, and tried to delete it. But it looks like I'm not able to delete my own posts? argh.
 
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