My first workbench design...thoughts?

[ray80]

Hi all,

I registered here a week ago and have been combing through endless threads for workbench ideas/tips since.
So a big thanks everyone for posting. I’ve enjoyed a lot of browsing over the last week.

Before I invest my time and money in to putting together my first workbench but, I thought I would give anyone interested the chance to critique my design and let me know if you think I’m about to make any mistakes or have any suggestions. Any comments at all would be appreciated and I’ll post my finished product when done.

It will be 2650 (104”) wide, 600 (24”) deep, and 920 (36”) high.
Frame will be 2” square tube, with two hitch style receivers for mounting vise/grinder etc. The front horizontal rail I have set back 100mm to let me shuffle a bit closer when seated. One thing I haven’t shown on the frame is cleats to bolt to the concrete floor and brick wall which will be done.

I am leaning towards an mdf top with replaceable masonite sheet on top of that. I’ve thought about a raised lip/splashback but as I aim to build this thing hard up against the wall I probably won’t need to. The compartments/shelving wil be ply, customised to fit all my power tool cases…and by the looks of things I’ve now got room for two more!

If you’re wondering, the green C-P30 to the left is my half attempt at modeling my vacuum. I wanted to make sure everything fits. The space to the right will house a tool chest/trolley.

I hope to slap this together in about a month or two.
Thanks guys!
Ray

 

[ray80]

and this time...i hope...with pics.

 

[MEAKN]

Just a suggestion for the top. I made my workbench top from a 4X8 sheet of 1 1/8" thick, tongue & groove plywood for flooring (from HD). Cut it to the size I needed & it made a really stable top.

 

[Jack Olsen]

It's a good design. But here are some opinions. For a wood-topped bench, steel tubing seems an expensive choice. Would 2x4s do the job as well? Also, you might want to re-think the 24" depth. 30"-32" is nicer, in my experience. (36" and deeper, you end up collecting clutter on the back wall.)

Also (and this might be particular to me), if you enclosed the storage you could get rid of the plastic tool cases. I know a lot of guys prefer to keep them. I never have. You could store more tools in the same space and the doors would keep dust and such away.

 

[Steevo]

I like the frame design, but then I like steel frames.
Personally, I find that having a vise at the corner of a bench can be handy, and having it in the middle can sometimes be obstructive.
Unless the bench ends will be crowded by side walls, I'd consider either moving one of the receiver tubes to an end, or adding one.

And welcome to GJ.

 

[larry_g]

If you plan to weld this up and then slide it into position then I would suggest adjustable feet on it. Between welding tolerances and the floor flatness the thing will rock having 8 feet on the floor. Also consider putting and electrical outlet or two on the front of the bench.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[astroracer]

JMO, of course, but I would lose the middle cabinet. Just because it will be impossible to clean under there and dropped sockets WILL roll under there every time. Pick up a few 2 drawer filing cabinets and mount them on a Harbor Freight furniture dolly (or two). Easy to roll out for cleaning and mobile storage is always a good thing.
Mark

 

[Jack Olsen]

Conversely, fasten it to the wall studs and have zero clearance underneath it for anything to roll under. I don't like it when a bench moves while I'm working on it.

 

[A**holes Garage]

I would not bolt it to the floor or the wall unless you plan on really beating on it, doing a lot of twisting, etc. Portable with lockable casters is good.

Kudo's for using a steel frame. Unless your workbench is going to be used for wood and light duty projects then a wood top is fine. Personally, I'd split the top, 1/2 wood, 1/2 steel.

Maybe even split the bench into two pieces? one permanent one that you can pull away from the wall?

Not crazy about built in backsplashes. Ok if a permanent install I guess. I weld on my workbenches and I can pull them out, to the middle of the room. No backsplash allows me to put projects on it that overhang the bench.

Just my .02

 

[JakeKohl]

I agree with losing the tool cases. They're bulky and take up more room than necessary. I'm building a mobile workbench (with a pneumatic lift/caster system) with a torsion top. My drawers will be designed to house nailers, routers, grinders, saws, etc. so I can get rid of the bulky plastic cases and store consumables for those tools along side. They take up much less space this way.

 

[Paticus]

Looks cool. Some things I ran into building my bench (photo below):

1. If you are going to be welding, make a section of your workbench top with steel plate and/or slotted Steel. The slotted steel comes in handy for clamping things down in various configurations since you can put a clamp through the slots.
2. A 36" top is handy, plus it's a standard size for wood sheets.
3. Welding on a trailer hitch receiver on the 2 sides and in the front is handy so you can attach various tools to your bench fast and easy (such as a vice).
4. Think about if you want a power strip and integrate it so it's out of the way
5. Lastly, I don't know what you have to store, but some standard shelving would work great under that bench in the center. Consider recessing it a bit so you can scoot a stool up and have leg room.

Oh and I almost forgot, make adjustable feet unless you have super accurate fabs skills/completely flat floor (I have neither).

 

[larry_g]

Looking at your design again you could make all 5 of your top struts receiver tubes.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[taumac]

I like thinking split into to benches and casters imo. They don't have to be greatest casters just something to move it around if want.

 

[1/2 Cup]

Ray, first and foremost welcome to the GJ from across the other side of the continent.
As you can see from the replies you have heaps of options an great ideas in terms of how you move forward.
I like your bench design, very similar to mine and in particular the height, 920mm is very workable, 600mm depth works well and the 100mm set back with the frame as you say will allow you to sit and work comfortably at the bench.
A 50 X 50 RHS frame with levelling feet as previously recommended is a top idea.
One regret I have is that I did not fit sliding doors underneath, which is on my to do list.
As for the bench covering material you choose that's entirely dependant on what you plan to use the bench for, wether you elect to have in timber or steel a splash back, I feel is a must.
If you are using MDF thicker is better, Bunnings have 32mm thick laminated (butcher block) pine counter tops for around $90, they may suit.

Check my albums out as there are some pics of my benches that may help.

All the best with your project, keep us posted

 

[bczygan]

Think about the forces acting on a bench.

The force you first think of is the weight of something on top of it. That is a force acting downward. The weight of the bench itself (Mostly the top) is also acting in this direction.
If all the bench is being used for is light layout work of sheet materials, then a minimal framework will do.
But a lightweight layout bench will also move around if you lean on it. So if you want it to be movable, either keep it very lightweight so you can move it by hand, or put wheels under it. In that case, you need a way to lock the casters so it won't move as easily. But since the mass and weight of the bench is low, it is more prone to movement across the floor.
In a lightweight bench, a light, open framework, like you show, is adequate to resist the downward forces. To resist the sideways forces imposed by sliding things on and off the top and working with horizontal motions, upon items, you need to carefully look at the joints of that framework. What you have is a big 3 dimensional parallelogram That will easily fold. The bigger you can make the joints, the more they will resist the forces acting on them. This means, the bigger the cross section of the members making up the frame, the stronger the framework will be in resisting forces in all directions. Bigger cross sections also allow for more weight to be placed on the bench and allow the bench top to be heavier. As long as things are enlarged in proportion, you can design a bench that will work for whatever level of capability you need.

Now, let's think about the framing. If you use an open framework, all the lateral forces must be resisted by the joints. If you need a bench for heavier work, and don't mind having a lot of weight and mass in your bench, then just increase the thickness of the top and framing members. If you want a lighter total weight with the same load carrying ability, then there is another way.

The top, if fastened in enough places, acts to resist movement in the horizontal plane at the top of the frame.

If you likewise, install a full size bottom shelf and fasten it in place, you have the framing on the bottom secured so it resists horizontal racking.

The same applies to the back and sides. If you sheath them, and fasten them in place properly, you create panels that resist racking in all 3 dimensions.

At this point, you can reduce the size of the framing members, as they are used more to fasten the panels together than they are to resist forces on their own.

This will give you the lightest and strongest construction.

 

[KEH]

Proper height of a bench is an individual thing, depending on how tall the user is. Decide for your self how tall you want it(appearantly you have done this).

I've kept power tools in cabinets with no cases. It seems like the cords are always getting tangled, or you have one tool in front of the one you want. I like having them in their cases. Grab the case by the handle and go.

KEH

 

[ray80]

Wow, thanks for all the top responses everyone. Everyone has brought up valid points. I should have said a bit more about my intended use for the bench...
It will be a general purpose, utility bench. It is not intended for anything particularly heavy, just general pottering around, fixing things and random projects. I'm no welder, I wish I was, so I wasn't thinking about steel tops.
I'll look in to the tongue/groove ply and check out the butcher block at Bunnings but thanks!
Though I'm not a welder my bro-in-law is and he can get quite cheap steel, hence the steel frame.
Depth, I would love to go a bit deeper but even 600 is already pushing it in the space I'm in. It's a retro fitted basement/cave/workshop dug out under and to the rear of our house. One helluva project that was. Another post for another time. For the same space reasons, I don't need it to be mobile, so no castors. But good idea thanks.
Height, I'm 5'11 so I think 920 ish will be ok for it's intended use.
Tool cases, good idea but if prefer to keep them as I seem do half of my work for friends and family renos so like to have them cased to grab and go.
Receiver mount positions are also limited for space reasons. Could possibly put a third on the right. Thanks.
I plan to build it in-situ and not need adjustable feet. But I'll see what my bro-in-law thinks about that. I would think it would be more solid without them...IF we could put it together spot on. Big IF but I know.
Thanks everyone for the tips and the welcome. I'll update you on how I get on.
Ray

 

[Outlander]

Looks cool. Some things I ran into building my bench (photo below):


4. Think about if you want a power strip and integrate it so it's out of the way

Any details on those task lights and power strip installation? I am 'illuminationally challenged' at the bench I seem to spend most of my time at.

 

[Pat Brady]

Conversely, fasten it to the wall studs and have zero clearance underneath it for anything to roll under. I don't like it when a bench moves while I'm working on it.

I'm with Jack on this. I hate to work on a bench that moves and shifts when I am working with a vise. You can put wheels on it or build it so you can move it later on without dismantling it. But you still need to bolt it to the wall for sturdiness. Also, I hate having to get down on my knees to dig something out from under the bench that has gone clear against the back wall. So, I have always put some type of stop along the bottom of the front of my workbenches to stop this. You might want to consider Jack's advice on this while you are building it.

 

[jethro29]

I think your legth and height are good but I would make it atleast 30-36" deep.

 

[Nestor]

Hi all,

I registered here a week ago and have been combing through endless threads for workbench ideas/tips since.
So a big thanks everyone for posting. I’ve enjoyed a lot of browsing over the last week.

Before I invest my time and money in to putting together my first workbench but, I thought I would give anyone interested the chance to critique my design and let me know if you think I’m about to make any mistakes or have any suggestions. Any comments at all would be appreciated and I’ll post my finished product when done.

It will be 2650 (104”) wide, 600 (24”) deep, and 920 (36”) high.
Frame will be 2” square tube, with two hitch style receivers for mounting vise/grinder etc. The front horizontal rail I have set back 100mm to let me shuffle a bit closer when seated. One thing I haven’t shown on the frame is cleats to bolt to the concrete floor and brick wall which will be done.

I am leaning towards an mdf top with replaceable masonite sheet on top of that. I’ve thought about a raised lip/splashback but as I aim to build this thing hard up against the wall I probably won’t need to. The compartments/shelving wil be ply, customised to fit all my power tool cases…and by the looks of things I’ve now got room for two more!

If you’re wondering, the green C-P30 to the left is my half attempt at modeling my vacuum. I wanted to make sure everything fits. The space to the right will house a tool chest/trolley.

I hope to slap this together in about a month or two.
Thanks guys!
Ray

My bench frame is 2" 100 wall square tube steel. I mounted the wheels on smaller size tubing that fit in each leg for a coarse height adjustment, though I need a floor jack to lift each end.

I sandwiched two pieces of 3/4" plywood and bolted it down with carriage bolts. I trolled the nearby HD's for damaged laminate that was still large enough for the top. I paid 15 bucks for a sheet with a broken corner and had more than enough to cover the top.

It's tough, smooth, and easy to clean.

Now that I'm getting more into woodworking, I may change the top and add some bench dogs.

 

[ray80]

Thanks, ill possibly be storing flat materials underneath which will resolve the problem anyway. Otherwise i could add a kick board i suppose. And I'm afraid I'm restricted with depth...24 will be enough for my needs but.

 

[justanengineer]

Id suggest cutting the length down a bit. I prefer 4-6' benches as longer just wastes space that could be used for cabinets, toolboxes, or machinery. Id also suggest planning for future moves. My latest bench rebuild included building fork slots into the base so I can move it around via the pallet jack.

 

[Hephaestus29]

My opinion on the depth is: I would only make it as deep as what you can reach, I think this is where ergonomics come into play.

I'm 5'6" and have an average reach I guess.

My work benches are 26.5" deep "Bought them this way in a silent auction" if they were any more than 28" deep i'd have a very hard time reaching the things on the peg board. As it is now I can reach things ok and still have plenty of room on the benches if their cleaned off good enough to work.
You may or may not hang peg board, but this is something to consider I think.

 

[Paticus]

Any details on those task lights and power strip installation? I am 'illuminationally challenged' at the bench I seem to spend most of my time at.

Here is a link with more pics:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181228

 

[Outlander]

Here is a link with more pics:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181228

Thanks!

 

[rick carpenter]

I don't know how far along you are, but if you use structural mdf for the top and it gets dinged and then wet, it will swell. My two benches are 6'x18" with tops of 1.75" industrial particleboard. On top of that I have sacrificial mdf worktops coated six sides with boiled linseed oil/kerosene/teak oil.

If you do go with structural mdf for the top, I suggest you glue plywood on the top and bottom. This way you can drill holes through it and use clamps without fear of crumbling the mdf, and you can attach jigs/etc to it.

 

[ddawg16]

Metal vs wood....both have advantages......

But as Jack pointed out....24" is not very deep....I would go at least 28 to 30"....mine are 32".

Additionally, mine are attached to the wall.....because I have an 8" stem wall on my foundation, my walls start 8" off the ground. I love having the space under them...come in handy for my M/C lift and spare sets of jeep springs....






Lets talk about material....

Wood...easy to work with...dampens vibrations.....

Steel....stiff....must weld or bolt...hard to drill in....transmits all vibrations.

Mass....dampens vibrations....

In my case....wood frame for the benches....as soon as I finish my 2-story addition....I will be covering my wood top'd benches with a sheet of 1/8" steel plate....and then on top of that, 18g SS...with the back bent up as a back splash.

Last thing....height.....

Have your wife measure from the floor to the bottom of your elbows.....subtract an inch....that is about how high your bench should be.

 

[Modifieddriver]

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Last thing....height.....

Have your wife measure from the floor to the bottom of your elbows.....subtract an inch....that is about how high your bench should be.

I was taught by old timers that the top of the bench vise should be to the bottom of your elbow. That's the work plane of your arms for filing, cutting, etc.

I guess it depends upon the intended use.

I also agree that the vise needs to be at the end of the work bench. With a pivot base vise this is a no-brainer.

Anyway, we're within a few inches of saying similar things.

 

[ray80]

Hey chaps.
Well a bit over a year ago now I promised some pics of the completed bench. It took a lot longer than I'd hoped to get around to building it. And then even longer to take the pics.

But here it is...much the same as the original 3D design. It ended up being 920 high which seems to suit me. The top is solid (laminated) jarrah, from Auswest Timbers for any Western Australian members. It is a beautiful bit of hardwood, and although looked a bit too pretty after it's first oil, it has already gained a few good scratches making it look more like a bench and less like a dining table now. I put the compartments together with 9mm ply and a lick of linseed and finished the steel in Rust Guard epoxy enamel.

I did calculate the weight some time ago...so I forget exactly what it was now but it was on it's way to 100kg with the the top on it so I never bothered bolting it down. It is extremely difficult to budge in the slightest.

I ended up with three 2" (50x4mm) receivers on the right for mounting vice etc...two on the front and one on the side. I haven't gotten around to mounting my vice to the 40x4mm tube that I will be using...but having just tested the 40mm tube itself in the receivers, they are absolutely rock solid once the two bolts are just slightly pinched. I do have plans to mount the jarrah offcut (seen on the ground to the right) as an "L" shaped extension to the bench, on a double receiver/tube type frame to the front right of bench there. The extension I will probably develop in to a router table which can easily be added removed.

I'm unsure now if I mount the bench grinder receiver style or just bolted to a block of timber and clamped to the bench...time will tell. Despite what you see there, I do like the idea of a clean bench with nothing much on it...Half the stuff on it at the moment is just waiting for a shelf elsewhere in the cave to be mounted. And the grinder is not something I'll use all that often anyway, so I would prefer it be semi permanent.

Cheers again for your input GJ members, I appreciated all the feedback!!

 

[Nehmo]

What kind of work will you be doing? That will determine what kind of bench you build.

...for workbench ...
It will be ...600 (24”) deep,

Not enough.

Frame will be 2” square tube,

If you happen to have that stuff hanging around, fine. But tubing means paying a premium for strength at minimum weight. If the project isn't mobile, channel, I-beam, or something would be more cost effective.

with two hitch style receivers for mounting vise/grinder etc.

A vice is used frequently enough to merit a permanent installation. Why bother with a receiver? A grinder may get a permanent place too.

The front horizontal rail I have set back 100mm to let me shuffle a bit closer when seated. One thing I haven’t shown on the frame is cleats to bolt to the concrete floor and brick wall which will be done.

I approve of the idea of getting close or even under the edge of the bench. The less you need to lean over the better.

I am leaning towards an mdf top with replaceable masonite sheet on top of that. I’ve thought about a raised lip/splashback but as I aim to build this thing hard up against the wall I probably won’t need to.

The surface material is determined by the intended use. Wood (2x4s with the 4 side vertical aren't bad) is a good choice for somewhat heavy mechanical work. A metal surface has it's advantages too. You could have both. Again, it depends on what work you plan to do.

The compartments/shelving wil be ply, customised to fit all my power tool cases…...

I've found the best place to put most tools is hanging on the wall behind the bench. I use hooks or nails in horizontal boards, but pegboard may be ok for smaller things.

If you’re wondering, the green C-P30 to the left is my half attempt at modeling my vacuum.

The vac shouldn't take up valuable easy-access space. It could go anywhere, even outside. All you need nearby is the hose end and a switch. But you may want the blower side access if you're going to use that instead of a compressor air gun.
And that reminds me of another issue. You need to pre-decide on your plumbing and wiring. Will you have compressed air with quick fittings? Where will the receptacle outlets be? Where will you mount the lighting? A water sink nearby will come in useful.
Also, don't forget about the trash container.

I hope to slap this together in about a month or two.

If you have the money for materials, space, and time, the workplace comes first.

(I didn't see the last post or pics when I posted. I now see them, and, of course, much of my post is irrelevant.)

 

[ZRX61]

How deep did you go with in the end? I find 24in is a pain in the ***, 28in is better, 30-32in in about perfect.

 

[A5Gunner]

Great looking bench but it is waaayyy to pretty! I would be afraid to work on any of the junkie stuff I have on that bench. Seriously, great looking bench.

I like a removable sacrificial piece of sanded plywood on top and some kind of washable backsplash for whatever goes flying or squirting.

 

[ray80]

I went 600 deep in the end...24". I would have loved to go another 2 or 3 inches deeper, but the little L shaped room (I've excavated under my back verandah/deck) means I have to compromise. If it was purely a shop I could have justified the extra depth. But the room is a compromised shop/shed/storage room/mancave complete with couches/tv in one corner. I still think 600mm will be deep enough to not annoy me for 99% of the stuff I work on. It is just a general purpose utility bench. But all the more reason I like the idea of easily removed bench tools.

There will be nothing stopping me from changing my mind down the track but at least for now, I won't be permanently mounting anything to it. I don't see any cons to the receiver mounts for the time being as they are rock solid and one with the bench when pinched in...and it will let me play with different positions. Maybe down the track I will then decide whether I want to permanently mount them and by then will have a better idea of where. Certainly for now, that big bench grinder, I don't want to lose that much bench space for something I can't see myself using all too often.

The steel I actually scored for free, not off the back of a truck, but from someone who has cheap access to it who owed me a favour or two. Structurally, it is definitely overkill but it looks great and will collect no dirt/dust like channel would. And I'm not interested in pegboard, all my hand tools for now at least store nice and dry in the tool trolley and I will soon have a big shelf running perpendicular to the bench on the left wall that will have underslung baskets/cases for smalls/fasteners.

Thanks gunner. It is still too pretty, agreed. but I'm working on that! It looks better for the few scratches it already has. I think it will look much better after a few years of work and a few more coats of oil or wax.