Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT My Five Pound Garage.
- Thread starter Terranova
- Start date
Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
So a cabinet scraper did in fact help a ton, but in the end I decided to try a different belt and “the college try” as my HS physics teacher used to call it. About half done.
Still contemplating the approach for the bottom metal shelf.
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Still contemplating the approach for the bottom metal shelf.
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BoilermakerFan
Well-known member
Looking good! I used a 30 grit belt on my sander to take down salvaged 2x4s to get rid of stains and even everything out. Just have to keep it moving quickly and steady... then went 60, 80,120, and 150 belts before switching over to the RO sander.
Got the chance to break out the welder the other day as neighbor put out a request on the neighborhood FB page for anyone that could weld.
Just some yard art repair, but sure, I'm up for that. Gave me an excuse to dig the welder out of the corner and do some cleaning there while I was at it.
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No gas in the bottle, but no matter, it was only a couple tack welds on small rebar.
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I'm also still working on the chop block table as well.
I knew it was a Wasserstrom brand table,
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I didn't realize it till odd circumstances had me actually drive by their offices, but they are actually headquartered here in Columbus.
I reached out to them via their FB page over the holidays and got general "we'll get back to you after the holidays" response. Amazingly, when they did get back to me, it said something to the effect of "we're really interested in your table, please reach out to Bruce Wasserstrom @ "614-Bruce's cell phone number"
!!!!! Holy ****! How often do you get that?!
Turns out the table is possibly from the 20's or 30's. He was curious how long we'd had it, which I couldn't accurately answer. He said the metal base was most likely NOT stainless as I'd hoped and assumed but more likely galvanized. He also confirmed that the top was coated with a wax type finish that was gonna be a PITA to remove and asked that I send him pics when I got done with it.
I thought that was pretty damn cool.
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Just some yard art repair, but sure, I'm up for that. Gave me an excuse to dig the welder out of the corner and do some cleaning there while I was at it.
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No gas in the bottle, but no matter, it was only a couple tack welds on small rebar.
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I'm also still working on the chop block table as well.
I knew it was a Wasserstrom brand table,
View media item 89829
I didn't realize it till odd circumstances had me actually drive by their offices, but they are actually headquartered here in Columbus.
I reached out to them via their FB page over the holidays and got general "we'll get back to you after the holidays" response. Amazingly, when they did get back to me, it said something to the effect of "we're really interested in your table, please reach out to Bruce Wasserstrom @ "614-Bruce's cell phone number"
!!!!! Holy ****! How often do you get that?!
Turns out the table is possibly from the 20's or 30's. He was curious how long we'd had it, which I couldn't accurately answer. He said the metal base was most likely NOT stainless as I'd hoped and assumed but more likely galvanized. He also confirmed that the top was coated with a wax type finish that was gonna be a PITA to remove and asked that I send him pics when I got done with it.
I thought that was pretty damn cool.
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Holy ****! That's an old table. Plus the fact that the manufacturer is still in business and contacted you deserves another, holy ****!
Holy ****! That's an old table. Plus the fact that the manufacturer is still in business and contacted you deserves another, holy ****!
I know, right?!
https://www.wasserstrom.com/restaurant-supplies-equipment/corporate-info
Oddly enough, my wife and I went on a double date with a work partner and her boyfriend. I was relating the story to them. Turns out, he worked for Wasserstrom at one point.
Crazy.
Apparently, the company hit it big when Wendy's restraunts, another Columbus company, chose them to fit out all their franchises when they started in the 50's.
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'm all over the place with things.
A chop block table, welding yard art etc.
Not a lot has happened lately because it's been pretty cold out in the garage. I'll be honest, that makes it tough for me to want to carve out quality shop time.
But, I have done a couple things.
For those of you not familiar with the thread recently, I have a '36 Ford fordor sedan that I plan on starting on here when spring breaks.
For those not up on vintage cars,
The '36 Ford has a very distinctly shaped headlight. Almost and oval or egg shaped compared to those before and after it.
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Only mine doesn't. At some point someone retro fit my car with some ugly sealed beam re-fits.
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It's been bugging me, so I started scouting out eBay for some lenses and possibly guts. (Reflectors, sockets etc.)
After much internal debate I decided to just get some lenses and no guts which will allow me to decide at a later date wether I want to stay 6V or upgrade to 12V which allows me to explore LED options too.
Anyway. I landed some lenses and couldn't let them just sit there in the box without cheecking it out.
Trim ring removal
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Rusty *** adjustment mechanism
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They told me when I bought it that they pulled it out of the Arizona desert. With as much strait dirt I've pulled out of this car, I believe them.
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After some google work, it turns out this company made a ton of different post market lighting products.
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Just a taste of what they'll look like.
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Even though I didn't put them both on, just getting out there and getting my hands dirty made me feel better about the whole thing.
Therapy. Lol
A chop block table, welding yard art etc.
Not a lot has happened lately because it's been pretty cold out in the garage. I'll be honest, that makes it tough for me to want to carve out quality shop time.
But, I have done a couple things.
For those of you not familiar with the thread recently, I have a '36 Ford fordor sedan that I plan on starting on here when spring breaks.
For those not up on vintage cars,
The '36 Ford has a very distinctly shaped headlight. Almost and oval or egg shaped compared to those before and after it.
View media item 90527
Only mine doesn't. At some point someone retro fit my car with some ugly sealed beam re-fits.
View media item 90521
It's been bugging me, so I started scouting out eBay for some lenses and possibly guts. (Reflectors, sockets etc.)
After much internal debate I decided to just get some lenses and no guts which will allow me to decide at a later date wether I want to stay 6V or upgrade to 12V which allows me to explore LED options too.
Anyway. I landed some lenses and couldn't let them just sit there in the box without cheecking it out.
Trim ring removal
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Rusty *** adjustment mechanism
View media item 90520
They told me when I bought it that they pulled it out of the Arizona desert. With as much strait dirt I've pulled out of this car, I believe them.
View media item 90524
After some google work, it turns out this company made a ton of different post market lighting products.
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Just a taste of what they'll look like.
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Even though I didn't put them both on, just getting out there and getting my hands dirty made me feel better about the whole thing.
Therapy. Lol
Growlertdi
Well-known member
Been a long time since I checked in.
sorry to hear about your parents passing. looks like you have been enjoying some of the treasures you acquired and making memories with the boys.
That National Trails shirt is a keeper. and the table from Wasserstrom is also quite cool.
sorry to hear about your parents passing. looks like you have been enjoying some of the treasures you acquired and making memories with the boys.
That National Trails shirt is a keeper. and the table from Wasserstrom is also quite cool.
It's funny how the stuff you're supposed to be doing can turn into the stuff you think you want to be doing and then turn into the stuff you'd really rather be doing.
I stopped by the local auto parts place to check out the inventory of car buffing and polishing supplies, looking for some pads to take some scratches out of the van door. Not much there but I managed to walk out with a can of "never-dull", which is a cleaner/polish I used to use to clean drum set cymbals when I was young. I had all but forgotten about the stuff.
Anyway, after striking out there I head home and it's almost 65 degrees out which is a heatwave compared to past recent temps. Spring is on its way.
I'm gonna putt around in the garage...
So I end up cracking open my 40's/50's era Sun distributor machine to have a look-see at the internals. These things have old, solid state electronics with capacitors that can go bad due to age/heat/cold.
I wasn't really thinking about a good set of before/after pics, so I apologize ahead of time.
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Horrible pic, I know, but you get the idea of how dirty this thing is.
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I busted out the never dull and threw it at some random parts, just to see.
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Left side, didn't really touch.
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Pulled the right side apart to clean a bit deeper
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Date stamps on the back of one of the gauges. I'll have to check and see which is what.
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Buttoned back up. I found my stash of bulbs I bought for these machines a long time ago and replaced the bulbs but couldn't get anything to light till I did some sleuthing. Then I forgot to take a pic like a dope.
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Stay tuned for more to come!
I stopped by the local auto parts place to check out the inventory of car buffing and polishing supplies, looking for some pads to take some scratches out of the van door. Not much there but I managed to walk out with a can of "never-dull", which is a cleaner/polish I used to use to clean drum set cymbals when I was young. I had all but forgotten about the stuff.
Anyway, after striking out there I head home and it's almost 65 degrees out which is a heatwave compared to past recent temps. Spring is on its way.
I'm gonna putt around in the garage...
So I end up cracking open my 40's/50's era Sun distributor machine to have a look-see at the internals. These things have old, solid state electronics with capacitors that can go bad due to age/heat/cold.
I wasn't really thinking about a good set of before/after pics, so I apologize ahead of time.
View media item 91240
Horrible pic, I know, but you get the idea of how dirty this thing is.
View media item 91243
I busted out the never dull and threw it at some random parts, just to see.
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Left side, didn't really touch.
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Pulled the right side apart to clean a bit deeper
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Date stamps on the back of one of the gauges. I'll have to check and see which is what.
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Buttoned back up. I found my stash of bulbs I bought for these machines a long time ago and replaced the bulbs but couldn't get anything to light till I did some sleuthing. Then I forgot to take a pic like a dope.
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Stay tuned for more to come!
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Ok, I need your electronics help!
While I was sleuthing out the light bulb thing, I discovered that the lights and gauges are driven off a 6 volt battery. I'd actually bought one a few months ago, knowing this day would come. So I hooked it up and got some light.
But, as you can imagine, all of this 60 year old wiring is about to crumble to pieces. My battery tested out at 6.45V on my MMeter, but was showing up at less than 6 on the manchine voltmeter. I'm aware that it could be capacitors/resistors which I plan on checking later. I need to make sure it's not wires/connections first. I took a file and cleaned some connections, but didn't have much success in getting the voltmeter reading to change.
Heres where I need your help.
What gauge are the different wires in these pictures?
Picture #1
These are the cables that connect the battery to some junction posts. Beefier than normal house wire with some copper battery type terminals on the end. Carrying 6V.
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Picture #2
Wires that carry power from junction posts to instruments. Seems to be close to "house wire". Standard crimped loop ends like car wiring.
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Picture #3
This seems to be a proprietary cable with a five or six prong plug. I was afraid to pull it for fear of breaking connections that I would need to keep track of till later. I'm confident enough of my soldering skills to be able to re-create this later when I'm better prepared to do it. Is there a place to source large cable with five wires in it or am I better off to make my own with five wires and some heat shrink?
And again, what gauge of wire?
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Next up, some thicker wire used with the motor. I assume the pig tail to the 120 outlet is like a standard 120 tail, but there are some beefier wires that carry power from a directional switch to the motor. (the motor has to run either direction, "forward" or "backward" depending on which way the distributor being tested rotates, clock or counter clockwise)
but that'all be a post for another day.
I know ID'ing wire from a pic is not ideal, but any help would be appreciated
Thanks!
T
While I was sleuthing out the light bulb thing, I discovered that the lights and gauges are driven off a 6 volt battery. I'd actually bought one a few months ago, knowing this day would come. So I hooked it up and got some light.
But, as you can imagine, all of this 60 year old wiring is about to crumble to pieces. My battery tested out at 6.45V on my MMeter, but was showing up at less than 6 on the manchine voltmeter. I'm aware that it could be capacitors/resistors which I plan on checking later. I need to make sure it's not wires/connections first. I took a file and cleaned some connections, but didn't have much success in getting the voltmeter reading to change.
Heres where I need your help.
What gauge are the different wires in these pictures?
Picture #1
These are the cables that connect the battery to some junction posts. Beefier than normal house wire with some copper battery type terminals on the end. Carrying 6V.
View media item 91236
Picture #2
Wires that carry power from junction posts to instruments. Seems to be close to "house wire". Standard crimped loop ends like car wiring.
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Picture #3
This seems to be a proprietary cable with a five or six prong plug. I was afraid to pull it for fear of breaking connections that I would need to keep track of till later. I'm confident enough of my soldering skills to be able to re-create this later when I'm better prepared to do it. Is there a place to source large cable with five wires in it or am I better off to make my own with five wires and some heat shrink?
And again, what gauge of wire?
View media item 91235
Next up, some thicker wire used with the motor. I assume the pig tail to the 120 outlet is like a standard 120 tail, but there are some beefier wires that carry power from a directional switch to the motor. (the motor has to run either direction, "forward" or "backward" depending on which way the distributor being tested rotates, clock or counter clockwise)
but that'all be a post for another day.
I know ID'ing wire from a pic is not ideal, but any help would be appreciated
Thanks!
T
bctexas
Well-known member
Have you seen this page:
http://www.paramountd.com/parts.html
He sells parts and manuals for Sun Distributor machines.
http://www.paramountd.com/parts.html
He sells parts and manuals for Sun Distributor machines.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
See if this works for you.
For the multi-conductor cable, you can get that at ACE (my preference) Lowes or HD. You just need to know what gage wire you need.
For the multi-conductor cable, you can get that at ACE (my preference) Lowes or HD. You just need to know what gage wire you need.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Ok. More MDT cleaning pics
Better "before" pics.
Right side clean. Middle still crusty. Left side still crusty.
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More in a bit
Better "before" pics.
Right side clean. Middle still crusty. Left side still crusty.
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More in a bit
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Sorry, it was Ggrandma's 99th yesterday and I didn't get a chance to post like I thought I might.
Anyway, here we go.
Broken meter. Not sure where this attaches.
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Broken needle too. Waiting on a return email from paramount. Hopefully he can fix it.
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Next meter. Lot of solid state "stuff" to explore for bad capaicitors etc.
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These things!! The little black press fit pieces sitting on the middle red part of the tool box, pressfit onto the posts (made of Bakelite) to sandwich the glass to the Bakelite with the white metal piece sitting in the top of the tool box. Well they ****!!! The Bakelite breaks off, or the pieces no longer press fit correctly and half of them are gone anyway. I was really frustrated when I had an epiphany.
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Hot glue gun.
Guess what. It's like the one thing I don't have, because I've always viewed them as a "crafting" thing. You know, not a tool because it's used for cutesy stuff. (Sorry mom!). Anyway, I have a cheap one now! Lol
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Mom used to work for an retail electronics supplier, so we ordered a **** ton of these bulbs when we first started messing with these machines. Luckily, I found them in my stash of stuff.
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A little 6 volt action...
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And voila!
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So much for the easy, make it pretty part. Now on to the real stuff.
New wire etc.
Here's the switch on the front that controls the motor direction.
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Which looks like this from the back. Wire labels are "best guess"
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Leads to the motor.
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I probably need to replace all these wires in the last few pics. I assume I could probably use a spliced up extension cord for this, or is that a no-no? I ask cause I happen to have some (ok, a lot) laying around.
I'm also curious to see what's in the switch. Is changing the motors direction as simple as reversing the polarity?
Anyway, here we go.
Broken meter. Not sure where this attaches.
View media item 91278
Broken needle too. Waiting on a return email from paramount. Hopefully he can fix it.
View media item 91279
Next meter. Lot of solid state "stuff" to explore for bad capaicitors etc.
View media item 91280
View media item 91281
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View media item 91284
View media item 91285
These things!! The little black press fit pieces sitting on the middle red part of the tool box, pressfit onto the posts (made of Bakelite) to sandwich the glass to the Bakelite with the white metal piece sitting in the top of the tool box. Well they ****!!! The Bakelite breaks off, or the pieces no longer press fit correctly and half of them are gone anyway. I was really frustrated when I had an epiphany.
View media item 91286
Hot glue gun.
Guess what. It's like the one thing I don't have, because I've always viewed them as a "crafting" thing. You know, not a tool because it's used for cutesy stuff. (Sorry mom!). Anyway, I have a cheap one now! Lol
View media item 91287
Mom used to work for an retail electronics supplier, so we ordered a **** ton of these bulbs when we first started messing with these machines. Luckily, I found them in my stash of stuff.
View media item 91288
A little 6 volt action...
View media item 91290
And voila!
View media item 91289
So much for the easy, make it pretty part. Now on to the real stuff.
New wire etc.
Here's the switch on the front that controls the motor direction.
View media item 91294
Which looks like this from the back. Wire labels are "best guess"
View media item 91292
Leads to the motor.
View media item 91291
I probably need to replace all these wires in the last few pics. I assume I could probably use a spliced up extension cord for this, or is that a no-no? I ask cause I happen to have some (ok, a lot) laying around.
I'm also curious to see what's in the switch. Is changing the motors direction as simple as reversing the polarity?
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Well, I got around to that scratch removal I mentioned in post #373.
I REALLY need to work on before pics. I took them this time but didn't think about reflections.
Before:
This piece is titled "Fiberglass bike flag pole on van door"
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Taped off the edges and a trim piece so I don't burn or sand through
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A little attention with the pneumatic RO sander, soapy water, and some 1500
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Then a turn with the wool pad and cutting compound and then a black foam pad with polish.
In Retrospect I probably need to go at it with the polish a little more.
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Here's the product
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I REALLY need to work on before pics. I took them this time but didn't think about reflections.
Before:
This piece is titled "Fiberglass bike flag pole on van door"
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Taped off the edges and a trim piece so I don't burn or sand through
View media item 91389
A little attention with the pneumatic RO sander, soapy water, and some 1500
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View media item 91386
View media item 91385
View media item 91384
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Then a turn with the wool pad and cutting compound and then a black foam pad with polish.
In Retrospect I probably need to go at it with the polish a little more.
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Here's the product
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Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Growlertdi
Well-known member
Where did you pick that compound up, I have similar scratches in our Black Sienna...
I ended up tracking down an auto paint supply house (Ohio Auto Kolor) that has a retail front over on West Broad, near Wilson. You might find something similar at an advanced/oreileys/name of your favorite car place, but it'll probably be over priced.
You can probably find it online too. Hell, you can come use what's left of mine.
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The key, for me, was wetsanding with the the 1500 grit. Several of the scratches were deep enough to be "heard" if you ran a thumb nail across them which typically means they're so deep that just polish won't get to them.
It also helped that I had the compressor/DA sander and the 7" polisher. If you don't have those, it might be an excuse for new toys/tools.
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Growlertdi
Well-known member
I have a compressor, but no DA or Polisher.. you are right.. perhaps some new tools are in order if Momma wants her van to pop again...
Not trying to highjack the thread, but there is an Ohio Auto Kolor in Newark, which is a little closer to Millersport than West Broad/Wilson. That said, the guys on West Broad are good guys, was in there last week to buy some supplies to prep a car for ceramic coating.
Growlertdi
Well-known member
yeah, I figured there's no reason not to tell you guys I am out in the Sticks east of Columbus... lol I changed my location after you posted about the West Broad place.
I'm just glad to see other people that aren't too far away if we ever need to get together..
I'm just glad to see other people that aren't too far away if we ever need to get together..
Time to check in again... it's been a few months.
A couple a weeks ago I ended up buying some parts for the '36 off Craigslist. The combo of $50 and close to my brothers house was a deal I couldn't refuse.
For $50 I got two leaf springs (which I don't think are '36), two rough bumpers (one of which I think is a '35) one running board and a gas tank.
Of all of it, I really wanted the tank. I have useable running boards and bumpers already. The springs would have been a bonus and the tank I have is a huge question mark.
New tanks go for around $225 so $50 made it seem like a steal.
I found the listing for the stuff a week before we headed out on vacation to Punta Cana DR so I had my brother hold on to it for me. yes we survived with out assault or mysteriously dying in our rooms. Upon return I ran down and picked it up and stuffed is under the car till I could shuffle it into the deck.
Flash forward to earlier this week when I drug the tank out for inspection.
It has plenty of surface rust but hefts pretty heavy and sounds solid. Nothing rattling around or anything.
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I've read many different threads on Ford Barn and Jalopy journal about tumbling rocks or chain around in a tank to loosen all the rust/**** up, but one thread stuck out in my mind where someone just flat cut the top out of the tank to clean it and welded it back up.
Challenge accepted.
Fist off I wanted to take the sending unit out. It's clearly shot and I planned on a new one anyway. A little PB blaster and pow! the first one came out.
"Hey! This is gonna be easier than I thought..."
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Nope. No one else wants out that the easy. I started with a small file.
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And ended up using a cutoff wheel, which I had out to use for cutting open the tank.
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All in all it was fairly painless getting it out. It looks like no other fuel sender I've ever seen. It has some kind of little drain bowl system. Anyway. Bye!
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I scribed out three lines thinking I could do 3 sides and pry it open. Turns out it's way sturdy and so I cut the forth side.
I started with a cut off wheel, but my compressor is small enough that it didn't have the balls to keep up. Metal blades for the jig saw it is. It turned out being a much more stable and quicker means anyway.
Hold on swim lessons over. I got plenty more left lol
A couple a weeks ago I ended up buying some parts for the '36 off Craigslist. The combo of $50 and close to my brothers house was a deal I couldn't refuse.
For $50 I got two leaf springs (which I don't think are '36), two rough bumpers (one of which I think is a '35) one running board and a gas tank.
Of all of it, I really wanted the tank. I have useable running boards and bumpers already. The springs would have been a bonus and the tank I have is a huge question mark.
New tanks go for around $225 so $50 made it seem like a steal.
I found the listing for the stuff a week before we headed out on vacation to Punta Cana DR so I had my brother hold on to it for me. yes we survived with out assault or mysteriously dying in our rooms. Upon return I ran down and picked it up and stuffed is under the car till I could shuffle it into the deck.
Flash forward to earlier this week when I drug the tank out for inspection.
It has plenty of surface rust but hefts pretty heavy and sounds solid. Nothing rattling around or anything.
View media item 94591
I've read many different threads on Ford Barn and Jalopy journal about tumbling rocks or chain around in a tank to loosen all the rust/**** up, but one thread stuck out in my mind where someone just flat cut the top out of the tank to clean it and welded it back up.
Challenge accepted.
Fist off I wanted to take the sending unit out. It's clearly shot and I planned on a new one anyway. A little PB blaster and pow! the first one came out.
"Hey! This is gonna be easier than I thought..."
View media item 94592
View media item 94593
Nope. No one else wants out that the easy. I started with a small file.
View media item 94594
And ended up using a cutoff wheel, which I had out to use for cutting open the tank.
View media item 94595
All in all it was fairly painless getting it out. It looks like no other fuel sender I've ever seen. It has some kind of little drain bowl system. Anyway. Bye!
View media item 94596
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View media item 94623
I scribed out three lines thinking I could do 3 sides and pry it open. Turns out it's way sturdy and so I cut the forth side.
I started with a cut off wheel, but my compressor is small enough that it didn't have the balls to keep up. Metal blades for the jig saw it is. It turned out being a much more stable and quicker means anyway.
Hold on swim lessons over. I got plenty more left lol
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Sorry, that took way longer than anticipated.
So here's a pic with the first few cuts made. I had to wrap the tank with a moving blanket because as it turns out using a jig saw a big hollow, resonant metal container makes A LOT of noise.
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All four. The moment of truth is at hand.
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Not bad at all. No pitting inside. Only what I'd call surface rust.
There's eve a spot of clear metal peaking through on the top that came out.
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It was only after peeking inside did I remember the stupid thing has a drain plug. Turns out it's REALLY in there and the outside of the plug didn't respond as well to parts blaster penetrant and the cutoff wheel treatment. I even tried flatingthe sides and an adjustable wrench. Oh well. I'm willing to concede on the plug. NBD in the grand scheme.
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Some views of the inside.
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Started throwing penetrant at it to see what would dissolve.
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And then stepped up to mineral spirits and a wire brush. Surprisingly about 80% of the stuff I went after came up easily.
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Then I stepped up to a small wire wheel on a chorded drill.
Now we're groovin.
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I knew there were going to be a couple baffles in the tank but I hadn't anticipated the "horizontal" one. As you can see, I couldn't really get into the narrow area with the drill. So I researched a couple ideas and after striking out at some vendors who happened to be at the GoodGuys car show here in town for the weekend, I stopped by HD to see if they had either a drill bit extension or a flexible shaft that I'd seen on their web site. Turns out they actually had it in the store. 12 bucks from ryobi. But, both the extensions and the flex shaft are set up for hexbits and the shaft on the wire wheel is not hex.
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More than one way to skin a cat.
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A small cotter pin should suffice. I felt like a roll pin would be overkill and I didn't have one anyway.
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A couple test shots and when I get some time in the next few days I should be able to wrap this tank up.
I have a tank treatment kit from KBS I bought a year or more ago, that has a cleaning stage as well as internal coating component.
Has anyone else used something similar on one of their projects?
So here's a pic with the first few cuts made. I had to wrap the tank with a moving blanket because as it turns out using a jig saw a big hollow, resonant metal container makes A LOT of noise.
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All four. The moment of truth is at hand.
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Not bad at all. No pitting inside. Only what I'd call surface rust.
There's eve a spot of clear metal peaking through on the top that came out.
View media item 94631
It was only after peeking inside did I remember the stupid thing has a drain plug. Turns out it's REALLY in there and the outside of the plug didn't respond as well to parts blaster penetrant and the cutoff wheel treatment. I even tried flatingthe sides and an adjustable wrench. Oh well. I'm willing to concede on the plug. NBD in the grand scheme.
View media item 94629
Some views of the inside.
View media item 94632
View media item 94633
View media item 94634
Started throwing penetrant at it to see what would dissolve.
View media item 94635
And then stepped up to mineral spirits and a wire brush. Surprisingly about 80% of the stuff I went after came up easily.
View media item 94636
View media item 94637
Then I stepped up to a small wire wheel on a chorded drill.
Now we're groovin.
View media item 94638
View media item 94639
View media item 94640
View media item 94641
I knew there were going to be a couple baffles in the tank but I hadn't anticipated the "horizontal" one. As you can see, I couldn't really get into the narrow area with the drill. So I researched a couple ideas and after striking out at some vendors who happened to be at the GoodGuys car show here in town for the weekend, I stopped by HD to see if they had either a drill bit extension or a flexible shaft that I'd seen on their web site. Turns out they actually had it in the store. 12 bucks from ryobi. But, both the extensions and the flex shaft are set up for hexbits and the shaft on the wire wheel is not hex.
View media item 94651
More than one way to skin a cat.
View media item 94652
View media item 94653
A small cotter pin should suffice. I felt like a roll pin would be overkill and I didn't have one anyway.
View media item 94654
A couple test shots and when I get some time in the next few days I should be able to wrap this tank up.
I have a tank treatment kit from KBS I bought a year or more ago, that has a cleaning stage as well as internal coating component.
Has anyone else used something similar on one of their projects?
Last edited:
Tyberius
Well-known member
Have you thought of using electrolysis and a pickling bath on the inside of the tank?
To be honest, even though I've rad many posts on the process and have thought about doing other piece, the thought never crossed my mind on this one. Having done some reading on these tanks it seems that this piece is actually made out of terne plate, which it tinned and/or leaded steel. I'm not sure electrolysis would have worked anyway. Now I'm concerned that i might not be able to mig it back together and could have possibly been sucking in some lead while working on it.
Sometimes you gotta drag out all your junk to really get an idea of what you have, what you need, and what you can get rid of.
I actually made a trip to the dumpster to get rid of some drops etc.
If felt good to pare down some of the stashed wood.
I drug everything else out to be able to get a decent sweep and use the table saw.
My goal is to make some room so I can work on the '36, so I was using a piece or three of plywood stashed behind it to make a second rolling table that will also store tools. It's one of those backwards if-I-want-to-get-to-this-I-need-to do-this-other-thing to get it out of the way.
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I actually made a trip to the dumpster to get rid of some drops etc.
If felt good to pare down some of the stashed wood.
I drug everything else out to be able to get a decent sweep and use the table saw.
My goal is to make some room so I can work on the '36, so I was using a piece or three of plywood stashed behind it to make a second rolling table that will also store tools. It's one of those backwards if-I-want-to-get-to-this-I-need-to do-this-other-thing to get it out of the way.
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Not yet.
Yesterday was about a four hour window, so I got stuff cut down and rabited, but didn't have time to screw and glue.
I got lots of thoughts this morning.
I've been so itchy watching everyone else's threads. Feeling guilty because it's been so hot this summer that I really haven't accomplished much in the garage.
Then about two days ago, from beyond the grave, I hear my dad in my head and he's like "I don't know why you're not working on the car, you've got every f-ing tool you need".
So yesterday I can't take it and I know I've got about a four hour window so I drag all that **** out and sort it and sweep and vacuum and cut up a 4 by 8 of 3/4" and manage to get **** packed back up and a trip to the dumpster.
With the boys I've slipped into this seeming adult (?) way of thinking "we won't be able to do X and Y in that amount of time" because they're *kids*. Thinking like that just causes me to sit on my ***. You know, "there's no way we can get to the store AND go to the library" so you just drag it out at the store.
But then occasionally you get to a spot where you think the other way... "four hours? I could probably do "this" *AND* "that"" so you put some hustle in it.
That's where I was yesterday.
I wish I was there more often.
And if I want to get this car done and keep dad outta my head, I'm gonna have to get there more often.
I guess I'm currently motivated by frustration.
Totally understandable. I am fighting the Heat as well. In fact I started at 645a this morning and it now too hot for me so I put everything up and shut her down. Spend the rest of the day on Youtube and building Legos.
It's great Dad is providing you motivation. But I wouldn't hurry it too much. I am still working on my Father in laws about to hit the 7 year mark. But little by little it will get finished.
Bret
It's great Dad is providing you motivation. But I wouldn't hurry it too much. I am still working on my Father in laws about to hit the 7 year mark. But little by little it will get finished.
Bret
So this is the current resting status of the working side of the garage. Anytime I start anything this is the starting point.
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Luckily almost everything rolls.
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Setting up for some screwing and gluing.
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Bought one of these rivet spacers. Less math, easier layout. More uniformity and better looking results. (Supposedly, lol)
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So I didn't have a piece big enough to make it to the back of the cabinet, but with the bottom and sides being 3/4" and a full back, I think it'll be strong enough.
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Little more gap then I wanted on this joint but glue and screws should make it work.
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Since I didn't have enough 3/4" for the back, I made it out of a piece of 1/2". To keep the outside dimension correct I only rabbited 1/8" vs 3/8". Enough to keep things aligned.
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Front view
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Id scavenged this drawer and soft close Blum bottom glides from a neighborhood dumpster (a little perk of living in a nice, new build neighborhood) so I set it up for the bottom.
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Divider in the middle for drawers when I find the right piece of wood.
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I kreg jigged two pieces to the bottom to hold the glides
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Took a break from the heat and ran to HD to get some casters. This time I thought smart and bout the ones with locks since the previous version of the table try's to roll on you. I also bought a pair to retro fit the old table. Hopefully they're the same size. (You know what they say about making assumptions)
Anyway, I bought hardware to mount them and I always worry about buying bolts too long that will interfere with the wheels. So I went with inch long screws. Which might be fine if I didn't need washers.
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So I busted out a forschner bit and counter sunk the screws and washers.
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View media item 96124
Of course I felt like everything was going pretty smoothly. The last screw on the last wheel is a no-go because of one of the screws in the carcass.
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In its "home" in the shop for now.
View media item 96128
Last thing I got done was cutting up a sheet of 1/2" mdf for the top. I was going to sandwich a piece of 1/2" ply between two pieces and realized I had enough to do 3 so why not?
Hopefully I'll get some time in the next day or two where I can throw down some glue and enough weight to get these bonded together for a top.
Of course I felt like everything was going pretty smoothly. The last screw on the last wheel is a no-go because of one of the screws in the carcass.
View media item 96126
I've been working on drinking more water and less pop lately so consequently I've been sweating ridiculous mounts out the top of my bald head. One of the errands today besides HD was dicks sports for the kids fall sports stuff. Luckily I remembered to pick up an old school head band. I'm pretty sure it was the only/last one in the store. It definitely did the trick. Later in the evening my oldest picked it up off the stairs and was like why is this So WET!? Lol
View media item 96127.
View media item 96098
Luckily almost everything rolls.
View media item 96106
Setting up for some screwing and gluing.
View media item 96107
Bought one of these rivet spacers. Less math, easier layout. More uniformity and better looking results. (Supposedly, lol)
View media item 96108
So I didn't have a piece big enough to make it to the back of the cabinet, but with the bottom and sides being 3/4" and a full back, I think it'll be strong enough.
View media item 96109
Little more gap then I wanted on this joint but glue and screws should make it work.
View media item 96110
Since I didn't have enough 3/4" for the back, I made it out of a piece of 1/2". To keep the outside dimension correct I only rabbited 1/8" vs 3/8". Enough to keep things aligned.
View media item 96111
View media item 96112
Front view
View media item 96113
Id scavenged this drawer and soft close Blum bottom glides from a neighborhood dumpster (a little perk of living in a nice, new build neighborhood) so I set it up for the bottom.
View media item 96114
Divider in the middle for drawers when I find the right piece of wood.
View media item 96115
I kreg jigged two pieces to the bottom to hold the glides
View media item 96116
Took a break from the heat and ran to HD to get some casters. This time I thought smart and bout the ones with locks since the previous version of the table try's to roll on you. I also bought a pair to retro fit the old table. Hopefully they're the same size. (You know what they say about making assumptions)
Anyway, I bought hardware to mount them and I always worry about buying bolts too long that will interfere with the wheels. So I went with inch long screws. Which might be fine if I didn't need washers.
View media item 96117
View media item 96118
So I busted out a forschner bit and counter sunk the screws and washers.
View media item 96120
View media item 96121
View media item 96124
Of course I felt like everything was going pretty smoothly. The last screw on the last wheel is a no-go because of one of the screws in the carcass.
View media item 96129
View media item 96125
In its "home" in the shop for now.
View media item 96128
Last thing I got done was cutting up a sheet of 1/2" mdf for the top. I was going to sandwich a piece of 1/2" ply between two pieces and realized I had enough to do 3 so why not?
Hopefully I'll get some time in the next day or two where I can throw down some glue and enough weight to get these bonded together for a top.
Of course I felt like everything was going pretty smoothly. The last screw on the last wheel is a no-go because of one of the screws in the carcass.
View media item 96126
I've been working on drinking more water and less pop lately so consequently I've been sweating ridiculous mounts out the top of my bald head. One of the errands today besides HD was dicks sports for the kids fall sports stuff. Luckily I remembered to pick up an old school head band. I'm pretty sure it was the only/last one in the store. It definitely did the trick. Later in the evening my oldest picked it up off the stairs and was like why is this So WET!? Lol
View media item 96127.
Great update. It looks like you had about as good of luck as I always do. I can't believe you have to move all that stuff to start working. I give props too you I would have a hard time with that.
If you get tired of wearing your stylish sweat band. The new cooling head wraps they sell work pretty good. I have two of them. One for dirty work and one for the woodshop.
Bret
If you get tired of wearing your stylish sweat band. The new cooling head wraps they sell work pretty good. I have two of them. One for dirty work and one for the woodshop.
Bret