My garage build

[JUSTA50]

Well, I finally started my garage build. This is a 28x28 detached garage next to my house. I have been planning this for a few months and finally decided to do it. I have never built anything to this scale but am an engineer by trade so feel that has definatly (destroyed all chance of making this easy) help me. I will post pics shortly to help out.

For a little back ground:
I dug the footings, poured the footings and blocked 2' up for a foundation. The garage has 2 single car doors framed in 8'x10'.
I framed 10' walls on top of the block for a final inside height of roughly 12'. Everything is 2x4's except the engineered trusses.

For a timeline, I framed 3 walls up and sheathed them in a day. Braced the structure off and set the trusses the next day, and the 3rd day added more brace and started on the front build. I didn't build the front of the garage yet because I had to set the trusses. I thought it would make placing the truss easier, which it did, but made building the front wall a chore!

Problems:

1. The front block foundation has a center support between the two doors. I guess the mason didn't exactly level and true the block because when I was leveling the wall to the roof truss, I cracked the mortar seam and basically pulled the block apart. Now there is a 1/16" gap on one side on the block joint.
2. Will I ever get enough X-bracing and support to take out all the movement? It's driving me nuts when I'm standing up inside the attic area and I can sway the building in one direction slightly.
3. I measured the total length of my garage and divided the space into 15 section (22.5" OC). Marked the location for the roof trusses and set them there. I didn't just lay them out 24" OC. Now when the sheathing is applied I'm sure some seams aren't going to meet at the truss. Is this a problem? I have small OSB hurricane type clips to use between the joints.
4. The final problem, or chore will be building the overhangs. I an notching the gable ends 36" apart and running a 2x4 to the next truss back. I hope this is enough support for the 2' overhang.

Any hints or opinions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ymerej]

2. Will I ever get enough X-bracing and support to take out all the movement? It's driving me nuts when I'm standing up inside the attic area and I can sway the building in one direction slightly.
3. I measured the total length of my garage and divided the space into 15 section (22.5" OC). Marked the location for the roof trusses and set them there. I didn't just lay them out 24" OC. Now when the sheathing is applied I'm sure some seams aren't going to meet at the truss. Is this a problem? I have small OSB hurricane type clips to use between the joints.
4. The final problem, or chore will be building the overhangs. I an notching the gable ends 36" apart and running a 2x4 to the next truss back. I hope this is enough support for the 2' overhang.

Any hints or opinions would be greatly appreciated.

1. I'm not a concrete guy, so I'll skip that one.

2. and 3. Have you sheathed the roof yet? I know you want to evenly distribute the forces from your roof, but you won't lose any real strength to have the roof trusses at 24" OC. I would recommend going back and changing them to all be 24" OC, with the only deviations being at the ends to accommodate material thickness. Trimming each and every piece of plywood to fit on the trusses will be a pain in the neck, and will waste material. You need the edges to fall on the trusses, otherwise you'll be falling through while you try to put your shingles on. With the roof sheathing on the building should stiffen up a fair bit.

4. I haven't made overhangs myself, so I will defer this one to those who have.

 

[Falcon67]

1) Not sure - can't really "see" what the answer might be from the description.

2) When I raised my shop (20x24) I use 1x4s as cross braces. I built the 3 walls (shop abuts to another building) in 2 sections each, squared them laying flat then notched in a long 1 x 4. When stood up, they were capped with a second plate to tie the sections together. On the rafters, I used 12' 1 x 4 to make diagonals in the corners under the rafters and collar ties on every other rafter. When the building up up without rafters, you could hit it with a linebacker and it wouldn't move.

3) IMHO - wrong move. 24" OC is the way to go, you just made a hell of a lot of extra work for yourself cutting OSB decking to land on a rafter. If you DONT ties the edges to a rafter or solid brace it WILL WARP and buckle under the shingles - been there, had to deal with that.

4) My overhangs are only 1' and just OSB with a 1 x 4 trimmer with no support, OK so far. IF I went 2' I'd probably notch vertical 2xs and maybe use one at the ridge, then 3 more down each side.

 

[JUSTA50]

Good info. I agree that not placing the trusses 24 OC was a bad move. I'm not going to be able to move the rafters now so I think I am going to have to add support where the osb ends fall out of place. What a pain.
I'll get pics up asap. Thanks again for the info.

 

[Kevin54]

Good info. I agree that not placing the trusses 24 OC was a bad move. I'm not going to be able to move the rafters now so I think I am going to have to add support where the osb ends fall out of place. What a pain.
I'll get pics up asap. Thanks again for the info.

Don't add support. Get a saw and rip the end of your OSB down. If you go adding where the sheeting doesn't hit the truss, you are going to get yourself into more trouble. So I'd spend the time and trim the ends. You may end up having to by a few sheets more but at least when you set them, you set them where they could be trimmed by a few inches.
As far as leveling the front wall to a roof truss, are you sure the truss is level? Most trusses I have seen the bottom chord will have a slight bow in it until set.
I'm not sure that you want a 2' overhang on your gable end. Most gable ends are 1' overhangs. Much more than that and you won't have any support out on the end and will end up with the roof bowing down. If you are dead set on a 2' overhang on your gable end, I would make the end truss. In doing that, make it 3 1/2" shorter than the rest of your trusses. That way you can use it for support and tie back in to the next to last truss. But even at that, you stand a chance of it bowing over time just from the weight of the sheeting and the weight of the shingles.
Before you go too much farther, I would head to Lowes, Home Depot, or even the Public Library that has books on remodeling and construction and do a little research. Pictures do wonders.
I don't want to sound discouraging, but some things that you have done, you have gotten the cart before the horse. Best to step back and take a breather and do a tad bit of research before getting into more problems.
I know what the problems can be like as I have been there myself.

 

[dreamingmuscle]

Good info. I agree that not placing the trusses 24 OC was a bad move. I'm not going to be able to move the rafters now so I think I am going to have to add support where the osb ends fall out of place. What a pain.
I'll get pics up asap. Thanks again for the info.

Don't support it. Cut it to fit. Its the only right way to do it now.

Glen
________
K1200GT

 

[twostory]

You need to build a "fly rafter" when you frame you 2 foot eave. See photo below. As Kevin54 said, you stick frame the last roof support 3.5 inches lower than the height of your roof truss, then you can use 2x4 as long "lookouts" that tie back into the other roof truss. Thus the lookout is actually a cantilever supporting the 2 foot eave.

 

[JUSTA50]

It's a completly different structure. Solid as a rock. I'll get some pics as soon as the weather breaks.

Thanks for the great info.