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My Garage Machine Shop

TruckJunkie

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northern lower peninsula of MI
Wow, just found this thread, don't know how I had missed it previously, very impressive! Makes me feel like just a piker now as things are starting to come together here. Machining, woodworking, welding, mechanics and construction are all hobbies I enjoy as well. Do not pursue it as a vocation, but thoroughly enjoy reading of your exploits, thanks for sharing and providing inspiration.
 
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zmotorsports

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John, I am embarrassed to admit that I just barely ran across this thread this morning. I always enjoy reading your posts and respect your thought process and insight. After seeing your shop and work I am even more impressed now.

I especially love the fact that this is at your home. For some reason a home shop is more appealing to me than one in an industrial park or commercial complex, I don't know why.

I thought I had a well equiped shop until today, thanks for the ego crusher.:lol_hitti

Keep posting up the pics.

Mike.
 

Red Leader

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Re: My Garage Shop

It's been a little while since I posted to this thread.

Here's my current shop project, a Cincinnati 12" Universal Dividing Head with lead attachment. This was purchased by the United States Navy in 1940 and, according to the inventory tags was put into long-term storage in 1957. Needless to say, it is covered in nastiness but appears in good shape.

This will be mostly a clean up and deburr operation, it's been banged around a lot over the years. The dividing head and tailstock bases will need to be stoned and possibly scraped as they have been kicked around on a concrete floor. Otherwise, it is complete except for the picking pin and sector and in good, but gooey condition. Here it is almost completely disassembled:

dividing1.jpg


Some of the parts all cleaned up:

dividing2.jpg


A couple of the USN stamps:

dividing3.jpg


Here's a couple pages from the 1940 brochure:

dividing5.jpg


dividing4.jpg


Once I get it back together I'll have to use it to make one of it's own parts. That should be entertaining. :thumbup:

What does a dividing head do, you ask? It divides a circle into almost any number of equal segments, such as for making gears. However, this dividing head goes a step further. When geared to the mill's table with the gearbox and change gears, it turns as the milling machine table moves in X, generating a helix. This is useful for milling helical gears, milling cutters, roots blower rotors, etc.

Technically, dividing heads are "obsolete". I'd say the majority of machinists under the age of 40 can make a spur gear with one and a few can knock out a helical gear in a timely fashion. A select few could turn out herringbone gear that actually works. But what about something even more complicated, such as a centrifugal compressor rotor like this:

dividing6.jpg


This is the point at which most manual machinists would walk away in disgust and a fair number of cnc machinists would too. The remainder would begin biting their fingernails. Talk of "5 axis cnc" would be discussed along with "CAD" and "solid modeling". The idea of machining such a shape manually would be laughed at and I suspect quite a few would use the word "impossible".

Enter the shops of the National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics (NACA) in 1945. The digital computer was still a theory and a functional computer controlled milling machine was almost 25 years away. Airplanes of the day were powered by large reciprocating piston engines. To reach higher altitudes and higher specific power ratings, more efficient supercharger and turbocharger geometry was necessary and was an area of heavy research. This was one of the tasks of NACA.

Here's how NACA made prototype supercharger rotors in 1945. A Cincinatti Universal Milling Machine with a Bridgeport "M" milling attachment on the overarm, a Cincinatti 12" Universal Dividing Head just like mine on the table and a shop-brew hydraulic tracing attachment keeping everything in time:

dividing7.jpg


So, the next time somebody says the only way something can be made is with a "5-axis cnc", tell them the old guys could do it on that old horizontal mill in the back corner under the frayed tarp, because it's true.

:beer:


This is still one of the coolest things I have ever seen on this forum.


So...when do we get to see you make one? :D
 

Dan in Pasadena

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Got here late but VERY impressive capability. Would come in handy if you ever needed to rebuild the Space Shuttle! Kidding, seriously really nice.
 
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A_Pmech

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Wow, just found this thread, don't know how I had missed it previously, very impressive! Makes me feel like just a piker now as things are starting to come together here. Machining, woodworking, welding, mechanics and construction are all hobbies I enjoy as well. Do not pursue it as a vocation, but thoroughly enjoy reading of your exploits, thanks for sharing and providing inspiration.

Thanks!

It's nice when things start to come together. There was a time here when I thought a disassembled, trucked in and rebuilt 8' by 12' prefab tool shed would be the greatest thing in the world, and it was! Then, I remember sitting inside one really snowy winter morning looking out at that cold, dark tool shed and wishing for a place I could work IN rather than just a place to store tools. In time, it happened too and as an aside, I disassembled that tool shed this time last year with my forklift and killed it with fire to make way for more progress!

demolition.jpg


fire1.jpg


Dirk Hollis said:
I hope you didn't drill into your box table while fabricating your cylinder holder. It would be a shame to mar such a fine specimen.

HAHA! No, I can't bring myself to do that. I put a few steel scraps under the work to keep the drill out of the table. Although it's pretty holy it is still reasonably flat and works fine for what I need right now.

I got the power feed working on the machine too. It's still loose as a goose but does drill pretty decent holes. Running it has helped me find the issues I need to fix. :thumbup:

zmotorsports said:
John, I am embarrassed to admit that I just barely ran across this thread this morning. I always enjoy reading your posts and respect your thought process and insight. After seeing your shop and work I am even more impressed now.

I especially love the fact that this is at your home. For some reason a home shop is more appealing to me than one in an industrial park or commercial complex, I don't know why.

I thought I had a well equiped shop until today, thanks for the ego crusher.

Keep posting up the pics.

Mike.

Hi Mike,

Thanks for stopping in! :D

From the beginning I wanted to keep my business here at home. Mainly because I use the tools for both work, play and general household repair and also because I like to be able to walk to work in my bunny slippers.

Red Leader said:
This is still one of the coolest things I have ever seen on this forum.


So...when do we get to see you make one?

Make a compressor rotor? You never know... I do have a project in mind that will require something similar, but I may have CNC machines by the time I get around to actually building it.

Dan in Pasadena said:
Got here late but VERY impressive capability. Would come in handy if you ever needed to rebuild the Space Shuttle! Kidding, seriously really nice.

Thanks! It comes in handy late at night when I need a 17mm allen key socket and the stores (which wouldn't stock such a thing anyway) are already closed. A piece of drill rod, a little milling, torch hardening and pressing it into a socket and I'm back to work!

:beer:
 

ODIS

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When I first saw the equipment in your shop, I thought: Wow, now that's some serious machinery. Then, as I continued to read through this thread, I thought: Wow, this guy has some serious talent. And, I as continued to read through the thread, I thought: Wow, this guy has some serious knowledge that seems to span a great many areas. So, now, I've read all of this thread, I think to myself: Wow, this guy has really captured his calling and is making a difference. Really well written and a complete pleasure to see and read of the projects you are inspired to take on. I know a few surgeons that do not have half the talent you seem to have. Congratulations!

Ody.
 
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A_Pmech

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When I first saw the equipment in your shop, I thought: Wow, now that's some serious machinery. Then, as I continued to read through this thread, I thought: Wow, this guy has some serious talent. And, I as continued to read through the thread, I thought: Wow, this guy has some serious knowledge that seems to span a great many areas. So, now, I've read all of this thread, I think to myself: Wow, this guy has really captured his calling and is making a difference. Really well written and a complete pleasure to see and read of the projects you are inspired to take on. I know a few surgeons that do not have half the talent you seem to have. Congratulations!

Ody.

Hi Ody,

Thanks for the kind words, you're far too generous.

At the end of the day it's all about doing what I enjoy: Making things.

:beer:
 

TruckJunkie

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I can relate to the small beginnings. My first shop was a 12x24 area I walled off in the front of my 24x32 garage. For a few years in the late 80s I ran a small machine shop out of there with a Clausing 4900 lathe and an old round-ram Bridgeport that was purchased from a high school that closed it's shop program. Back then, finding work for small manual machine operations was very difficult so I closed up, went back to school and changed careers. The shop is still there, but am completeing construction on a 40x52 shop next door with a 28x40 second floor. The machines are being upgraded with a newer Bridgeport with DRO, a second small lathe, a 6x18 surface grinder, MIG and TIG welders. It is all for fun now though, so things move along as money and time permit, which is to say way too slow. The focus of that fun now is working on my collection of antique off-road vehicles, rather than making money.

I bow to your efforts to work with the big equipment and make a living doing so, it can be a very tough way to make a living. If it is something you love, the sacrifices can be well worth it though.
 
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A_Pmech

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I can relate to the small beginnings. My first shop was a 12x24 area I walled off in the front of my 24x32 garage. For a few years in the late 80s I ran a small machine shop out of there with a Clausing 4900 lathe and an old round-ram Bridgeport that was purchased from a high school that closed it's shop program. Back then, finding work for small manual machine operations was very difficult so I closed up, went back to school and changed careers. The shop is still there, but am completeing construction on a 40x52 shop next door with a 28x40 second floor. The machines are being upgraded with a newer Bridgeport with DRO, a second small lathe, a 6x18 surface grinder, MIG and TIG welders. It is all for fun now though, so things move along as money and time permit, which is to say way too slow. The focus of that fun now is working on my collection of antique off-road vehicles, rather than making money.

I bow to your efforts to work with the big equipment and make a living doing so, it can be a very tough way to make a living. If it is something you love, the sacrifices can be well worth it though.

It's no cakewalk, I can say that. American manufacturing has been hollowed out from the inside. Finding customers is hard. Finding qualified customers is an order of magnitude harder.

Yet, at the end of the day after the occasional frustration has subsided, I love what I do. I'm on the job 16 hours a day 6 days a week. If I didn't love it I would have closed up long ago. There are certainly much easier things I can do to make a living, but I enjoy the challenge. If it was easy, it wouldn't be fun. :)

It sounds like you have a nice shop in the works over there. It's nice to be able to say "Well, nobody makes or sells one, so I'll make one." :thumbup:
 
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A_Pmech

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Here's a little repair I did last night to an old caliper case. The caliper, a 42" Helios was rattling around in it's nest due to a broken piece of wood and heavily degenerated foam:

helios.jpg


Looking at the mount it is easy to see why it failed. The groove is made parallel to the grain of the wood which creates a stress riser:

helios1.jpg


My solution was to use a putty knife to break loose the rest of the block:

helios2.jpg


Then I made a new one from a piece of Red Oak I had laying around. Since I don't have the dividing head parts ready for assembly yet, I used part of the dividing head to weight down the block. See! Even disassembled tools are useful!

helios3.jpg


After installing the new block I added some 1/4" felt from my felt stash to replace the old foam:

helios4.jpg

It should be good for another 50 years!
 
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A_Pmech

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I've been picking away at the dividing head a little bit the past few days. I got the ancient Union 3-jaw chuck reassembled, but I don't think I have the jaws timed correctly. They're close, but probably a couple teeth off. I'll probably put it in the lathe and re-grind the chuck jaws at the appropriate time.

Today, I worked a little miracle. When I received the dividing head I noted it had a threaded chuck adapter mounted to the spindle. The chuck had been removed by unbolting it from the adapter. Obviously, the adapter was stuck to the spindle, a common problem with threaded back chucks.

Initially, I figured I would simply remove the spindle and deal with it on the bench where I could build a suitable bench clamp for the spindle. After removing everything from the housing EXCEPT the spindle, I discovered, much to my dismay, that the spindle comes out the BACK, not the front. :willy_nil

After some thought, I considered building a large strap wrench, which looks and operates on the same principle as a motorcycle triple clamp. I'd use this wrench to grip the OD of the quick indexing flange and then put a bar on the adapter and turn it off. Looking at the parts catalog, I discovered the quick indexing flange is held on by only four #10 fillister head screws. With a 4' wrench those would shear off like candy!

So, I went to the internet in search of answers. Besides reassembling the head and chancing the worm gear or using the spindle brake I figured I was screwed. Then, I came across a little post on the Home Shop Machinist message board by member G.A. Ewen.

G.A. Ewen said:
If you are ABSOLUTLY SURE that it is threaded on you can try this. It has worked for me every time.

He also attached this photo:

74bc08f8.jpg


The full thread for those interested:

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=6762

BINGO! Why hadn't I thought of that!?!? I've often used the power of a well-applied air hammer, chipping hammer or jack hammer to turn hours of work with a sledge into a few seconds.

So, here's the setup. I blocked the worm wheel by shimming it tight with some softwood shims. Then, I made a bar to fit two of the bolt holes on the threaded chuck adapter. I drilled a center hole in the edge of the bar near the end to keep the pointed tip of the air hammer on the bar.

dividing8.jpg


dividing9.jpg


Then, standing on the dividing head housing I hit it with a burp of the air gun. "Damn! My shims aren't tight enough!" I thought. So I hit it with another burp and it slipped a LOT. "Hmm... This isn't going to work either."

I got off the housing and was getting ready to move it when I noticed the adapter was turning. Wait a second! It's loose! :eek2:

Sure enough, it was broken free. Most likely for the first time in 60-odd years. So, this is my hat tip to G.A. Ewen of the Home Shop Machinist message board. You saved me a hell of a lot of work. Thanks!

:beer:

dividing10.jpg
 

Falcon67

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Here's a little repair I did last night to an old caliper case. The caliper, a 42" Helios was rattling around in it's nest due to a broken piece of wood and heavily degenerated foam:

Been a few years since I saw a big ol' Helios. Nice.
 

fergus

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Aha, the wonders of the internet come to bear again. I can't tell you how many times I've had something like that save my bacon on a repair job.
 

Mike.ASC

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Great looking operation you have there along with the skill set that goes with it . I have to admit I have a bit of equipment envy.
 
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A_Pmech

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The Brown and Sharpe surface grinder is a lot closer to running now. Over the past couple weeks I've been picking at some of it's issues. First on that list was removing the stuck wheel adapter. Sometime in it's past, somebody managed to break the wheel adapter nut in several pieces:

grinder21.jpg


To remove the wheel adapter I needed to remove the broken pieces of the nut which were wedged tightly in the counterbore of the wheel adapter. To proceed, I decided to sacrifice the wheel adapter and cut off it's nose. It's a crappy cheap wheel adapter anyway. I'll make some new ones from 4140PH.

Here's the setup, don't laugh too much:

grinder22.jpg


By running the spindle and the downfeed while the cutoff wheel was running, I was able to quickly cut off the nose of the wheel adapter:

grinder23.jpg


The spindle threads are severely damaged from the broken nut, so I'm going to have to pull the spindle and put it in the lathe. More on that soon.

In the meantime, I began the complicated process of changing the machine's oil, all 25 gallons of it. To pump most of the oil out of the machine's oil basin I used a small coolant pump:

grinder24.jpg


Next the really fun part! The basin was full of sludge and milkshake from the oil absorbing atmospheric water vapor. To deal with that I turned to the Shop Vac.

grinder25.jpg


By the time I was done I'd removed about 10 gallons of milkshake and the ol' Shop Vac was sounding well lubricated. For some reason, I thought of this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=fvwrel&NR=1&v=CmC62Eg82E8

:lol:

25 gallons of new Vacuoline 1405 is on the way. Next, I need to remove various oil filters from the machine and find new ones.
 
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A_Pmech

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In other news, I've been building cabinets for my house. Carcass materials for all the cabinets is 3/4" 13-ply Baltic Birch plywood and white Formica with 1/4" birch plywood backs. Joinery is with dadoes and rabbets. The face frames and doors are qarter sawn Walnut and all joinery for them is mortise and tenon.

Here's the first cabinet, which will house the oven. It is being trial fit before gluing and screwing:

cabinets1.jpg


Since the cabinet supports the weight of the oven, the shelf it rests on is built as an I-beam structure for substantially higher stiffness. I don't like saggy oven shelves and rocking ovens! Here's a close-up of that:

cabinets2.jpg


Next up is the lazy susan cabinet. This one is more fun! I hate lazy susan cabinets where the back of the cabinet doesn't follow the contour of the rotating shelf. When something falls off the rotating shelf it's lost forever in a back of the cabinet. Or, at least until you completely empty the cabinet and reach all the way back in there to get it.

My solution is to prevent that from ever happening. The cabinet back is curved just like the rotating shelf, with a 1" radial clearance between the shelf and the back. That way, stuff can't fall off the shelf. To fit the curved back, the top and bottom of each lazy susan cabinet is routed with a 3/16" wide groove:

cabinets3.jpg


Once assembled, the two grooves form a place to slide in a sheet of Formica with a 1/8" Masonite backer:

cabinets4.jpg


Here's the cabinet with the Formica back installed:

cabinets5.jpg


The face frames begin with Walnut, from the rough:

cabinets6.jpg


Joinery is by mortise and tenon. The mortises are cut with a hollow chisel mortiser and the tenons cut with a table saw fixture:

cabinets7.jpg


A perfect fit! By using fixtures, the fit is very repeatable:

cabinets8.jpg


After installing the face frames with pocket screws, the inside edges of the face frame must be beveled to the tangent angle of the shelf circle. This will help clear the rotating door and keep the clearance between the door and the face frame to a minimum. In this case, the angle is 11 degrees. Doing this after installation allows a closer fit and simplifies the joinery:

cabinets10.jpg


The shelves are made by routing out sections of plywood with a circle jig, then laminating them with Formica. Next, a wedge shaped cutout is made on the bandsaw where the door will be let into the shelves:

cabinets9.jpg


After sawing, the remainder of the material is removed by following a pattern with a pattern bit in the router. This ensures that all the shelves have the same dimensions. I don't have any photos of that, but you'll see the shelves again in the next installment, where I'll show building and install the shelf trim.

I've been unable to find any decent lazy susan hardware that meets my specifications. So, I'll be making that too.
 
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ODIS

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Always enjoy your up-dates. Looking forward to see more of your cabinet build. The tool you used to find the angle is interesting.

Ody.
 

mjozefow

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I see floor sander felt on that Helios!

Cabinets are looking good. I'd hire you but you never want to come out here! :(
 

Omphaloskeptic

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I'm not saying that you're an O.C.D. perfectionist (not that its a bad thing), but I'll bet a dollar to a donut that those cabinets' joinery is done with calipers, micrometers, and Prussian Blue!:lol_hitti
 

fergus

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Great work man. I feel like I'm sitting in a shop class with all the detail in your posts...its pretty awesome. :thumbup:

Nice joinery...I still wonder if I'll ever have the patience to do something that nice. WE shall see.
 

Steve V.

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I've got him figured out. He's really a Highlander and has been alive for hundreds of years gaining this knowledge and experience.

:thumbup:

Steve
 

amolaver

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I've got him figured out. He's really a Highlander and has been alive for hundreds of years gaining this knowledge and experience.

:thumbup:

Steve

LMAO.. either that or a damn vampire draining the brains out of generation after generation!

i'm so damn impressed i forgot i should be embarrassed at how little of it i could do!

ahm
 
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A_Pmech

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Always enjoy your up-dates. Looking forward to see more of your cabinet build. The tool you used to find the angle is interesting.

Ody.

Thanks, Ody!

That's a pretty good trick with the air hammer, never seen that one before. Thats a nice dividing head you've got there. :thumbup:

Yeah, it saved my ****!

Been a few years since I saw a big ol' Helios. Nice.

Helios makes some good stuff. It's kinda funny some of their stuff has been rebranded by Fowler over the years.

I've got him figured out. He's really a Highlander and has been alive for hundreds of years gaining this knowledge and experience.

:thumbup:

Steve

LMAO.. either that or a damn vampire draining the brains out of generation after generation!

i'm so damn impressed i forgot i should be embarrassed at how little of it i could do!

ahm

LOL guys!

Great work man. I feel like I'm sitting in a shop class with all the detail in your posts...its pretty awesome. :thumbup:

Nice joinery...I still wonder if I'll ever have the patience to do something that nice. WE shall see.

Patience comes with practice. You get to throw a lot of stuff in the scrap bin along the way! :lol_hitti

I'm not saying that you're an O.C.D. perfectionist (not that its a bad thing), but I'll bet a dollar to a donut that those cabinets' joinery is done with calipers, micrometers, and Prussian Blue!:lol_hitti

I like to hold my dimensions to about +- .003" on most of my woodwork. The tenons are a little bit tighter. They should *just* slide into the mortise without hanging up, but without needing more than light to moderate hand pressure.

< blown away by the magnitude of your shop and the skill level in which its run.
Very nice.

Thanks!

So not only extreme machining, but woodwork too???


I need to up my game 'round here:lol:


Impeccable work, as usual.

Thanks Red! Don't sell yourself short though, the built-ins you made for your shop are excellent in both design and fabrication.

I see floor sander felt on that Helios!

Cabinets are looking good. I'd hire you but you never want to come out here! :(

Yup! Spare floor sander felt it is! I have enough **** to keep me busy here for the next 500 years. :willy_nil
 
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A_Pmech

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I finished a job recently which is typical of the type of repair work you can expect from an agricultural area.

A customer approached me regarding a driveshaft for a piece of golf course equipment. One of their operators had managed to twist the thing into a pretzel. The manufacturer is either no longer in business, or no longer stocks parts for this model of machine, so repair of the existing shaft was the only option.

After cutting apart the driveshaft tube, I sourced some new components and machined the rest for re-use:

driveshaft1.jpg


Since the components are carbon steel, proper preheating is required to prevent weld cracking. Preheating also reduces welding distortion, which must be kept to an absolute minimum:

driveshaft2.jpg


Here's the complete assembly along with part of the damaged tube from the original shaft:

driveshaft3.jpg
 

Omphaloskeptic

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On the preheat of carbon steel, do you go by color alone to determine when it's ready?

The 'operators' of that piece of equipment must have been trying to do wheelies with it to pretzel the shaft so badly; hopefully, they are now 'former operators'. lol
 
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A_Pmech

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On the preheat of carbon steel, do you go by color alone to determine when it's ready?

The 'operators' of that piece of equipment must have been trying to do wheelies with it to pretzel the shaft so badly; hopefully, they are now 'former operators'. lol

I use temperature crayons and an infrared thermometer.

I don't know who the operator was but yeah, the sure did a number on it!
 

sberry

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The Dialarc was a good investment, score a small feeder like a 211. Super easy to roll around and so handy for small welds vs firing up a smokey stick. Clean.
 
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A_Pmech

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The Dialarc was a good investment, score a small feeder like a 211. Super easy to roll around and so handy for small welds vs firing up a smokey stick. Clean.

Yes it was! Now that I have quite a few hours on it I can say it's a great machine.

That's an interesting idea. If one shows up I might do that.

:thumbup:
 
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A_Pmech

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It's been a while since I've posted a job from a Garage Journal member, but here's one I finished recently. This was a fun job because one of the internal threads had to stop at a defined location .150 from the bottom of the bore without a relief groove.

I was contacted by a member to make a pair of new reservoir nuts for an old hydraulic jack, for which parts are no longer available. The job started by turning down 2-3/4 bar stock and drilling a 1.45" hole though the center:

jackparts1.jpg


Once I had the pair of blanks drilled I used a hand ground form tool to put a 1/8" radius on the OD of the flange:

jackparts2.jpg


Before I could thread the internals of the nut I needed to make a pair of thread plug gages. This is one of them, 1-7/8 - 18 class 2:

jackparts3.jpg


Here's the finished nut after boring and threading the two internal diameters. The smaller thread is 1-3/4 - 18 class 2:

jackparts4.jpg


Testing the thread with the shop-made go no-go plug gage:

jackparts5.jpg


With the lathe work finished I moved over to the mill to cut the wrench slots...

jackparts6.jpg


and drill a small relief hole:

jackparts7.jpg


Here they are, along with the original which was used as a sample:

jackparts8.jpg


These should keep a pair of old jacks running for quite a while into the future!

:thumbup:
 

red92s

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2009
Messages
334
Man, making your own plug gauges . . . impressive, and probably saved a couple hundred bucks.

I'm certainly not doubting the outcome, but how to you insure that the GO/NOGO plugs "are what you think they are"? I think normally that is done with a controlled set of "master" ring gauges.
 
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