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My gypsy workshop

tylerae40

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Hello my name is Tyler,
My plan is to build a small workshop and storage space on the back of an old truck tray. I'm interested in old hotrods and kustoms, scrap metal sculpture and old tools of course. So it'll look old, rough and a bit weird. I'm using a truck tray because i already have it, it's a good starting base, i have no spare coin and i want to be able move it around if need be. I'm a apprentice boilermaker in perth western Australia, so fabrication isn't a problem.

I work in the city during the week and the truck, all my tools and car stuff are in an open front shed out on my parents farm 3hrs from perth. So I want to be able have all my tools, parts etc locked up in it, with shelves benches etc all setup for when i come home on weekends. The tray is about 2300mm x 4500mm, with a full steel framework and a steel outer rim with wooden boards across the top. Once built I plan to do any welding work outside in the workshop and have this body as storage and cold work. It will also help organise and help limit the amount of **** i keep as i am a bit of a horder (car stuff, scrap steel and tools).

I was previously going to get a 20ft sea container but the local shire has made it difficult to keep one at my house in the country town. I'm not too sure on the exact body type or the layout yet. I'm looking to build it so it's still fairly moveable (the truck drives), has a bit of a cool old feel to it and its cheap. I've been checking out pics on the net and found some pics of the vechicles from the "burning man" festival, and i thought they where awesome so may lightly tie in some stuff from them. Will post up pics as i get stuff done thought it will be a long process As i can only do it when home on the weekends and the wife permits. I tried to sart today but the welder broke.

Pic of the truck as it is - will a 54 chev sedan project sitting on the back-
IMG_0429.jpg


a basic plan of the body-

gypsyworkshopplan.jpg


and a pic of the "neverwas" a vechicle at " burning man"- ideas , ideas!

neverwas1_rect540.jpg
 
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mwbailey

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Good luck, Tyler. Your project reminds me of a shop my father built in the late 50's. He knew he'd be moving it, so the footprint was just right to fit on a flatbed trailer -- maybe 30+ feet by 8 or 9 feet. He even measured and allowed for the clearance under the "Hathaway Bridge" from Panama City to Panama City Beach, Florida, since we were living in that area.

He had doors at each end so work could move through the shop. He had arc welder, acetylene torch, and 9-inch metal lathe along one long wall and radial arm saw in the middle of the opposite wall with workbench/table top on each side of the saw. He used the open area between the ceiling joists and rafters to store lumber, steel, etc.

The whole thing was wooden with shakes/wood shingles on the exterior walls.

It was a pretty creative approach, I thought, although he may have seen it somewhere else. My point is that a little creativity can go a long way. You seem to be considering some good ideas, yourself!
 

fergus

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Might be an idea to jack it up so the bed is level before you start, that way its far simpler to get everything straight and plumb as you build it.

Thats how we build transportable lodges at one place I work sometimes.

That is a pretty good idea. Maybe install some outriggers on the truck first so you can level it out wherever you go?
 

HOTFR8

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At first I said to myself this should be in Free Parking but then it is a workshop so build away and keep us informed of progress. Make sure you fit a small crane to save your back from heavy lifting.

As for the Shipping Container here we need no permision to use them as they are not fixed, so no permits needed etc. I have seen them wired and set up as shops or an office. I do not know why you had problems with that idea as for me they make for perfect storage.
 

demographic

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That is a pretty good idea. Maybe install some outriggers on the truck first so you can level it out wherever you go?

Thats what we do with the transportable lodges anyway but they are pretty much permanent buildings that can be carried on the back of a lorry when needed (upto 15 metres long and the singles fit on one lorry the doubles need two and get built as one, separated to move them then joined back up when sited) whereas I assume you want to move yours about a lot more than that.

The main thing for one thats on the back of a lorry like yours is that its far simpler to build things off a level base. You can use spirit levels to plumb the door casings up, the windows go in level and plumb and any worktops you put in are level.
Makes fitting cabinets a lot simpler as well.


If its being used without jacklegs later on it might be slightly out of level depending on the ground its sited on but at least its all "out" in the same direction.
 

John in OH

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Looks like a good plan! I like the old truck you are starting with.

I recall seeing photos of similar truck-mounted workshops that were built for and used by the US Army during WW2 .... these photos might even have been here on GJ somewhere. I don't recall all the details, but the interior fixtures included a small lathe, workbench with vise, etc. Sounds a lot like what you are planning. If you could track down those photos they might help generate some more ideas that were actually proven out "under fire"!
 
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tylerae40

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Greats ideas gents. I realised i'll need some stands to sit the truck chassis after all your comments on working off a level, so i got some scrap steel from the farm before coming back to perth. As the welder at home is on the blink, I used the welder at work tonight to weld up one of the stands to support the chassis as a mates theory of just letting the air out of each of the tyres till it sits level is a bit bodgy. - I explained to him that the truck would move on the suspension when i walk for side to side on the bed- he just looked at me with a confused look.
So i got the first stand welded up, sorry no pics, it is very simple- two upside down T 's made of 4x4" i beam with another piece of 4x4" i beam for the top. Now I will have to hunt around to find some more scrap steel to make the next one or two.
In the mean time i'll be making up what parts i can at work after hours, I've got a reasonable idea of the door /s and windows, chairs/ lamps etc i want so i will hopefully make some of them up in my spare time. thanks for the ideas it all helps.

HOTFR8
As the plan is to make the main structure out of 50x50x5mm angle iron I will have a fair bit of working out to do to make a crane work for lifting gear up. But i'll have a look when home- i believe i have some fairly thick box section with i may be able to put in as the door frame and have a lightweight beam and girder trolley running off of that. I'll have to look into it further.

John in OH
Here is a link that i found for a WW@ service trailer - i think it the same one

.http://cgsc.cdmhost.com/utils/getfile/collection/p4013coll9/id/60/filename/61.pdf

racingtadpole
I believe the Gross vehicle mass is about 5 ton, cheers
 

racingtadpole

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Assuming your ton is metric, thats 5000kg - the weight of the truck thats not going to leave you with a lot of payload if you fill it with machines and tools and still want to drive it on the road legally. Lets face it, none of the boiler makers I know are known for under engineering :lol:
Interesting idea, I shall be following along to see how you go about it.
OH and....

:needpics:
 

HOTFR8

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.
HOTFR8
As the plan is to make the main structure out of 50x50x5mm angle iron I will have a fair bit of working out to do to make a crane work for lifting gear up. But i'll have a look when home- i believe i have some fairly thick box section with i may be able to put in as the door frame and have a lightweight beam and girder trolley running off of that. I'll have to look into it further.

More than likely you could purchase a crane easier than building one.
A few ideas for you.
01-Ute-Crane-Manual-w.jpg

Strongarm-Handwinch-and-Mast-Cranes-from-Spacepac-Industries-303045-255x255.jpg

288


Another suggestion would be not to cover in the complete area on the back of the truck. Fit the crane to the back and have some carry space. A trailer would be better for Air Compressor, Welder and Gen Set as that way all the noise is well away from your work space. I got these ideas recently from a mobile workshop that was a converted bread van as the tandem trailer was set up with the noisy gear.
 
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demographic

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Forget the mower in front of it.
mobile%20workshop.jpg

Here is an image of the one I am refering to minus the trailer, this one is a newer version and has a lift up ramp instead of the crane.

Funny you put that up as its pretty close to one I saw in the local scrapyard this weekend.
Its got a tail lift at the back that leads into a storage area for tools and equipment and a bit of a room/canteen section in the front for the workers to have their tea in.
DSC01084.jpg


DSC01087.jpg


DSC01086.jpg
 

carhunter

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How about adding a slide-out side portion on one side for more width.

In America the number of sliders your camper has is directly proportionate to class. :D

slideout-roadster.jpg


10PHAETON%20%281%29.JPG
 
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tylerae40

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< interesting setup above, ive seen setups like that in west oz. i've been making up a few small swivel seat brackets and the like for the workshop so i can have seats that swing under the bench out of the way. will post picks when can.
 
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tylerae40

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I got a little bit of work done today,
my old man i lifted the 1954 chev sedan car body off the truck tray with the farm loader and put it down in the paddock. I picked up a new hanpiece and lead for my weklder on friday, ( paid for by my boss - cheers mate) so i got the welder going great guns and welded up the door frame out of the 50x50 angle iron. I had it sitting flat on the tray and it ended up nice and flat. I also ground some areas where the frame will go on the tray. I hope to get a bit more done tommorow with what steel i have. Then will get some more steel during the week and cut it to length ready for the weekend, and also i hope to make up a door and some hinges during the week too. I'm still not sure on what i'll use for the roof or what i'll clad the sides with, i was thinking of corrigated iron as we have a heap of it on the farm but i'm not sure yet. This will be a mostly recycled materials project so i'll see what i can find, I don't like new shiny paint. I also finished part of the seat swivel the other day but i need to sort out all the bits that will bolt up to it.
pics will be 2mo, cheers
 
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tylerae40

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I made up the door frame up the other night, the doorframe is 900x 2000 as i'm about 1850 tall and fairly wide too. :D.


A couple of the welds for those that are interested- mig welding

Also pics of the compressors i picked up for free off the verge collections in perth- people throw out there old items on the front verge on a cretain date and the local council pick it up for disposal. Anyway both where not working but managed to put them together last weekend to make one for free- normal price for these is about $100 in bunning :D , so may mount it up under the truck tray later.




Hope your all well will update when i get some more done. cheers
 
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tylerae40

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Good score on the compressors. Waiting to see how you mount them and power them as I guess they are electric. Not sure how the vehicle will be accepted by the registration authorities if you use coregated iron.

Lol, theres no plans to lic it, it'll only be going from out the farm into town, when i move all my gear. Also wherever it's parked it'll be at a house or shed so no prob with power etc. I have a mate who's a sparky so will get it all wired up and just have a plug so i can hook it up to the mains.
 

HOTFR8

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Lol, theres no plans to lic it, it'll only be going from out the farm into town, when i move all my gear. Also wherever it's parked it'll be at a house or shed so no prob with power etc. I have a mate who's a sparky so will get it all wired up and just have a plug so i can hook it up to the mains.

OK, I get it :headscrat I think. You will not register it as such to drive on the road. But how will you move it from job to job if you can not legaly drive it on the road ?

Wire it as a Caravan. May I suggest you wire it with a couple of power inlets one 15 amp and another 10 amp. Anything bigger than that you would need to wire seperately like 3 phase.
 
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tylerae40

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OK, I get it :headscrat I think. You will not register it as such to drive on the road. But how will you move it from job to job if you can not legaly drive it on the road ?

Wire it as a Caravan. May I suggest you wire it with a couple of power inlets one 15 amp and another 10 amp. Anything bigger than that you would need to wire seperately like 3 phase.

The gypsy will only be for home use and storage, The company i currently work for has work trucks etc we use for site work. If i need to move the gypsy into town i'll just get a farm machinery movement permit or the like from the local shire. At the moment the gypsy has no brakes so just moving it in and out of the shed is enough hassle. The project is more about me having my own lockable space that is easy to transport if i need to. I'm tired of having stuff all over the shed and having leaves, dust and **** blow through the current open front shed. Also i want to cut down on the amount of **** i keep. I've been getting rid of a lot of the sellable stuff and a lot of the rest that doesn't go into the gypsy will be thrown out, or welding into sculptures and sold off, or chucked out. Here's a pick of the welding side of the current shed as it was a few months ago.



I'm getting some more steel today so hopefully I'll be able to make a small bit of progress then will have to wait till the next payday. I've found some spare bits and bobs of steel in the rack so i may start on the door, and steps. cheers tyler-
Also i've changed the size of the pics to thumbnails so i can view this on my mobile if i want to. cheers
 
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tylerae40

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I got a bit more work done over the weekend , I finished off the door end and welded it mostly together with it laying on the truck bed. While i was cutting the corners in, on the tops of the uprights i miss counted so when i went to put the top piece of angle iron on i realised they where all 5mm + short. I didn't want to weld them up short ( as it would throw everthing out) so i clamped it all in place and got a piece of copper flat bar and used that as a backer to fill in the holes (copper is a dis-similar metal so the weld won't bond to it).
I then flipped the frame and lifted it back onto the back of the truck, then used a ****** strap over the roof truss to lift it upright, i got it close, tied it off, tacked it, checked it all for square then welded it out. I did have to use some flat lashing cord and a belt latch to pull the door frame posts together to weld to the truck bed as they where out and also to pull the frame down on the left corner as it had lifted. Anyway here are the pics, I will have to wait a while to get more steel as cash is low. In the mean time i'll start on making the door using scrap metal and the like. cheers.


 
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tylerae40

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hello to all, I got nothing done on the gypsy this weekend, i spent most of it trying to get my 1993 vp holden commodore to start again after i decided it was a good idea to pressure clean down the engine..... it wasn't. It seems that i got water into one of the connectors somewhere and it won't allow the fuel pump to run. I believe its a stuck fuel pressure switch, but i'll be buggered if i can find it. Have left the car on the farm to dry out over the week and will have another play with it next weekend.
Apart from that i bought some old style six sided electric lanterns that are "to be" wired up to normal power, so plan to possible mount one of those to go on the truck, or out the back of my house on a welded up lamppost. I also bought an old kerosene bottle lantern from a industrial art place that i sell sculptures and welded furniture too. I plan to modify it to run on mains power, or possibly batteries, i will see.
cheers
 

demographic

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Not sure what voltage you use over in Australia but for the site cabins we have here (the ones mads from steel anyway) we have an isolator switch on the outside of the cabin. Just in case the whole thing ends up live and needs switched off.

I'm not totally sure about the regulations but I've just noticed the switches on them.
 

HOTFR8

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hello to all, I got nothing done on the gypsy this weekend, i spent most of it trying to get my 1993 vp holden commodore to start again after i decided it was a good idea to pressure clean down the engine..... it wasn't. It seems that i got water into one of the connectors somewhere and it won't allow the fuel pump to run. I believe its a stuck fuel pressure switch, but i'll be buggered if i can find it. Have left the car on the farm to dry out over the week and will have another play with it next weekend.
Apart from that i bought some old style six sided electric lanterns that are "to be" wired up to normal power, so plan to possible mount one of those to go on the truck, or out the back of my house on a welded up lamppost. I also bought an old kerosene bottle lantern from a industrial art place that i sell sculptures and welded furniture too. I plan to modify it to run on mains power, or possibly batteries, i will see.
cheers

Not sure what voltage you use over in Australia but for the site cabins we have here (the ones mads from steel anyway) we have an isolator switch on the outside of the cabin. Just in case the whole thing ends up live and needs switched off.

I'm not totally sure about the regulations but I've just noticed the switches on them.

All your power points and light points should be double insulated the same looking power points you use in your House are not the same as those used in Caravans. PLEASE make sure you use the Caravan double insulated power and light fittings. I know this as I often supply customers with the correct fittings for Teardrop camper trailers.
 
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tylerae40

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All good with the eletrical fittings mate, i spoke to a buddy about it and he said all the industrial stuff they use is double insulated and fairly water proof too. I still haven't done much more on the gypsy, i fixed the car last weekend- it turned out that the electric in tank fuel pump had just spat the dummy ( it only worked when you belted the bottom of the tank). So i pulled another out of a spare ute i have, swapped the bits over and i was sorted.... touch wood.
I've been out of the work workshop for the last couple of weeks working onsite "rebuilding" a Veermeer surface miner drum, so haven't been able to do foreigners after hours. I have got some more steel ordered in which is good. I did do a bit of research on lights for the gypsy, and found some $20 cast alloy carriage lights on sale at the local hardware super store. I went a bought a couple so will probably make them look old and sort them out to go in. cheers
 
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tylerae40

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G'day to all, I haven't completed much on the gypsy, I've been busy waiting for cash for steel and making sculptures for people, and of course working. I got six 6000mm lengths of the 50x50x5 angle in a deal last week, and cut it all to length after work on the drop saw then carried it home in the ute. I did manage to take out one over-height sign at a carpark while the steel was on the ute, but oh-well. I've cut the bar work, that was on the front of the tray behind the tray off, using a very ugly and old looking 9" grinder, with the help of my dad. I still need to grind it all smooth, but ran out of time as had to do a small "sheep" sculpture, as a prize for the local country show. I got it finished on sunday, after running out of mig wire, and burning myself lots, welding all of the m8 nuts together to make the body. (yes i will post pics). I've collected a few bits and pieces for the inside, i rummaged around a found a stainless laundry sink i'd stashed, and a few other bits. the lights are an ongoing thought, particularly what i'll have inside, as i'll need to be able see of course.
I've also gotten worried about the roof for the gypsy, as if i use a curved roof that i want to use and i stick it on top of the frame i have, it won't fit in the shed, so I'm currently working that one out, i may have to cut down on the sides and keep the centre at 2500mm.
More to follow info and the photo's on the weekend, cheers
 
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tylerae40

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G'day to all again.
Still no pics as i have misplaced my camera, and haven't been getting match done. As per usual i've been doing everything else but. I decided to set my roof height at 2000mm on the sides, and in the centre it will be whatever the curved roofing sheets meet up to. i've decided this spa as i can continue on with the project and not have to do a massive about of reworking. I've got my eyes on a choice of two old grain silos, which is made out of curved corrugated iron, which has all been bolted together in a cylinder. Both of the silo's are no longer in use and one is already half apart, as it was blown over in a storm. the only thing is one is much smaller, so i'll measure the curvature of both to decide which will give me the best centre height for the gypsy, allowing me more storage. Also i'll need to measure the sheet heights to see with will cover the best.
Luckily i've been learning diameter, circumference, area, trigg etc etc, at tech school, so i'll get to put some in practice.
I've still be working out on site on some Vermeer equipment, so i haven't been able to do any projects after hours. I'm mean to be in the workshop 2mo, so if i get a chance i'll sort out making a door for the gypsy. i already bought a pair of singe pin type weld on gate hinges for $12. My door space is 900 x 2000, so will have to knock off 30mm or so clearance for the hinges and gap, side to side and 20mm across the top and bottom, depending.
anyways will post later on. cheers
 
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tylerae40

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Gday to all,
Here are the long awaited pics. I still haven't been getting much done on the gypsy. My little sister in law and i gave the steelwork a coat of "hammered metal pink" ( it was free) just to cover the steel so as it dosen't rust too much in between work and cladding. I had to paint today with one hand as i had a stupid accident yesterday evening. I was driving along the road and put my hand out to adjust the mirror and as i did i ran over a branch which flicked up and bashed my thumb and stuck it full of splinters, one of which went down the side of my nail, past the bone and was pushing the skin out on the other side, it was about 4mm wide. had to drive the 100km to the closest doctor and got it pulled out. And have been told not to use it for a few days, so i'm off work with spare time.
I have worked out the roofing problem, I will be using the curved sheets of corrigated iron off of an old grain silo from the farm, and i'll use some corrigated iron sheeting for cladding the outsides. I'm still unsure on the windows though. hope everyone is well.

IMG_1069.jpg


IMG_1070.jpg
 
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tylerae40

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cheers guys, yep thumb is healing, saw doctor 2day. Yep it is tall, i belive 3.5m total at the moment, and possibly 4m total once the roof goes on. So lots of storage. Either way it'll still be able to get in and out of the shed. When i take it from place to place i'll just get a permit as needed, I only planning on moving it once every fews years anyway. I'm planning on bolting up some wind down stands so the truck will be stable when working in it.
 
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