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My Home Machine Shop

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monkers

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very nice work! what drawing program do you use, and is it hard to learn?
 
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gdavis2265

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Thanks Guys for all the comment's - very much appreciated - I just need a better camera though.

I've been using AutoCAD religiously since the first release way back when (machine designer for large open-pit mining) I also use SolidWorks and a few others.

I encourage everyone that wants a super free CAD program that is identical to AutoCAD in every way to download a program called DraftSight.

Like I said, it emulates AutoCAD in almost every way. These are very easy for the beginner to use. I've been using AutoCAD for over 25+ years and with the amount of times I've had to have the programs re-installed over the years, I ended up just typing in what I wanted to do at the command prompt. (on new re-installs you end up loosing all your nice neatly arranged icons and menus, so I just use a few stock icon bars like dimensioning and type the rest of the commands in)

If you want to draw a line, type 'line' and hit enter. A circle, type circle. Trim a line, type trim. This works for most commands in AutoCAD and Draftsight. Then just follow the command prompt, it will guide you what to do.

Also, most of the commands have one or two letter quick commands. L for Line, TR for Trim, C for circle, CO for copy, etc... I use this almost exclusively.

Download the Draftsight program and give it a go.

Also, I have no problem giving a .dwg or .dxf of anything you see in my shop. I probably have most things drawn up. It will have at least two layout views and some rough details.

I wing-it on a few things, but taking the time to design it, really makes it right the first time.

Cheers,

Glenn
 
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gdavis2265

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MetalMangler said:
You got me! I'm looking forward to seeing how this comes together since I've had one of these on my "to-build" list for a while. Since I don't have a lot of experience (and just enough knowledge to be dangerous) I can't wait to see how you engineer it.

MM
Click to expand...

Since this is going to be housed on my grinder stand (with the other grinders) I wanted to make mine compact and mount the motor overhead. Most of the models I have seen on the net have the motors mounted directly to the left side of the grinder. I didn't have room for this, so I came up with this design. Also, this is a tight budget build and wanted to use materials I had on hand. This is a single phase 3hp motor, so I can't easily reverse the direction of the motor. This caused the sanding belt to be on the opposite side as KMG has thiers. On the left side vs the right side.
 
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F-117HWK

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Love the shop and the thread Glen. That case is pretty awesome :rocker:

Is DrawSight 2D only?

I used AutoCAD all during high school and should have purchased it at the student discount in college but never did. Now a few years later, I just haven't been able to pull the trigger on the $800+ price tag. I have been using Google Sketchup for my 3D models but really miss AutoCAD.
 
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gdavis2265

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F-117HWK said:
Love the shop and the thread Glen. That case is pretty awesome :rocker:

Is DrawSight 2D only?

I used AutoCAD all during high school and should have purchased it at the student discount in college but never did. Now a few years later, I just haven't been able to pull the trigger on the $800+ price tag. I have been using Google Sketchup for my 3D models but really miss AutoCAD.
Click to expand...

Yes 2D only I believe (same as AutoCAD lite) - make sure you search for DraftSight.

This is totally free and works exactly like AutoCAD. It's owned by the Solidworks company (Dassault Systems).

It's nice to have that other D, but 2 is enough for me. :eek:
 
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F-117HWK

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gdavis2265 said:
Yes 2D only I believe (same as AutoCAD lite) - make sure you search for DraftSight.

This is totally free and works exactly like AutoCAD. It's owned by the Solidworks company (Dassault Systems).

It's nice to have that other D, but 2 is enough for me. :eek:
Click to expand...

Ha, thanks for catching that. Didnt even realize I had typed it wrong.

Ill give it a shot and see if it fills my needs

Thanks again
 
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Kevin54

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View media item 26646
I'm hoping that you know, although you may not, and this is for others that may have the opportunity to run a surface grinder sometime, but NEVER start grinding with your wheel on the L.H. side of the part. This pertains to wheels that run clockwise which most do. You want to touch off of your part with the wheel running, then back the saddle out towards you. When you start the grinding process, you want to start with the wheel to the R.H. side of the part. The reason being is that the wheel will be grinding UP on the part and if something happens, the part will stay to the left side of the wheel

If you start grinding with the wheel as shown to the left of the part, the wheel can climb over the part. It can toss the part, or it can explode the wheel. It would be the same thing as having your car stuck on ice and spinning the tires, then tossing something under the front of the tire. It would shoot it out the back. The grinder wheel acts the same way only it can be a little more dangerous.
 
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gdavis2265

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Kevin54 said:
View media item 26646
I'm hoping that you know, although you may not, and this is for others that may have the opportunity to run a surface grinder sometime, but NEVER start grinding with your wheel on the L.H. side of the part. This pertains to wheels that run clockwise which most do. You want to touch off of your part with the wheel running, then back the saddle out towards you. When you start the grinding process, you want to start with the wheel to the R.H. side of the part. The reason being is that the wheel will be grinding UP on the part and if something happens, the part will stay to the left side of the wheel

If you start grinding with the wheel as shown to the left of the part, the wheel can climb over the part. It can toss the part, or it can explode the wheel. It would be the same thing as having your car stuck on ice and spinning the tires, then tossing something under the front of the tire. It would shoot it out the back. The grinder wheel acts the same way only it can be a little more dangerous.
Click to expand...

Thanks Kevin for the info.

I realize how to grind into the part, this photo was actually a staged shot and realized I needed to take a pic.

Glenn
 
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gdavis2265

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OK guys, made some more progress on the belt grinder.

A few shots showing how I plan to utilize the platten, using the 5" wheel out front or the 2" wheel out front. Or combination using a flat platten vertical or horizontal. Also rotating it for slack belt at an angle or having the flat platten at an angle.

I also plan on buying a 10" wheel for hollow grinding from either Grizzly or KMG.

One thing I really screwed up. I made the platten wheel mount out of 3/8" x 3" plate and bored the holes to 3/4" for the wheel shafts. I used 1 pc set collars welded to clamp the shafts. Big mistake. I tried very hard to keep the shafts in-line, but could not get them exactly square and they evidently pulled after welding. I used the press to bow the plate and re-align the shafts, so it works, but it really bugs me.

Tomorrow I'm going to scrap the platten and remake out of a 1" x 3 flatbar. Going to bore the 3/4 inch holes on the mill and use a boring head, and add some set screws to lock the shafts. This will keep everything nice and straight.

I also need to install the switch and cord and some locking knobs here and there and I think she is done.

I finished forging a knife for my brothers birthday, I think I will hollow grind it very soon.

Thanks for watching.

Glenn
 
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gdavis2265

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A_Pmech said:
Glenn,

Your grinder project is coming along well, I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product. I may just ask you for a set of drawings.

I'm following your thread, you do great work! :thumbup:
Click to expand...


Thanks! That means alot coming from you. I've followed some of your builds and must tell you that they are superb. Your attention to detail is incredible.

Thanks again.
 
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larry_g

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That grinder is looking nice. Compact, quick change and simple. I helped a friend make one and it was a bear to get running and make tracking hold. Last problem was that the wheel would grab the part and 'chatter' Not sure what was causing that but we played with speed, tension, and belts and it is still fussy about that.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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gdavis2265

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Thanks Larry for the info. I can already see that tension needs to be just right.

I need to find a bit longer/stronger compression spring. I'm sure tracking really is affected by the belt tension.
 
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larry_g

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gdavis2265 said:
Thanks Larry for the info. I can already see that tension needs to be just right.

I need to find a bit longer/stronger compression spring. I'm sure tracking really is affected by the belt tension.
Click to expand...

I wasn't giving advise, I was hoping you had answers! Anyway good luck.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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gdavis2265

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larry_g said:
I wasn't giving advise, I was hoping you had answers! Anyway good luck.

lg
no neat sig line
Click to expand...

Well,

Like I mentioned in an earlier post, the fab work needs to be done spot on. All shafts need to be perfectly in-line to each other. That is why I am redoing the front plate on the one I just built. I used some 3/8" plate and it pulled when welding. I'm redoing it out of 1" plate and just machining to keep the shafts perfectly inline. I think this could be the cause of troublesome tracking. Also it looks to me that all crowning should be kept to around 1 deg per side, any larger and it looks like the belt would stretch in a hurry.From what I have read, both the drive and tracking pulleys need to be crowned.

I have no experience with these grinders, but this is just my technical opinion based on machine design experience.

I'll find out more as I start using it.

I'd like to hear from folks that have built and used these and what they would do differently next time around.
 
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larry_g

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View media item 27145
One of the problems that we fought with was the interface of the sliding bar to the tube it fits in, and the locking mechanism. Your 1" square looks to be a good fit but with that small single bolt locking it in I think that you will find it moves a bit sideways when adjusting affecting tracking. I ended up reworking his to be a lot tighter that he had it with a second ( or third ) locking bolt. His did not start out near as nice as yours and it was a bit different design. His design to change wheel size you change out the slider which has a different wheel on it. Now as I type this I seem to recall that we ended up with lock bolts that locked the adjusted in both X and Z directions to make the wheel stable enough. Hope fully you have your slide machined tight enough, his was made from two pieces of telescoping tubing.

Do you have yours operating yet?

lg
no neat sig line
 
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Kevin54

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In regards to the tracking, the pulley that is up to the left of the spring, is it flat across or is it slightly convexed?
 
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gdavis2265

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Kevin,

I put about a 1.5 degree crown on that pulley. Higher in the center for tracking.

I've read that people have used flat pulleys and used a few wraps of electrical tape around the center and used this as the crown. Suppose to work fairly well.
 
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gdavis2265

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Ok guys,

I think this is mostly complete. Rebuilt the platten mount out of 1" plate. Got it wired up and works beautifully. Tracking is dead on and steady now. I still need to make the platten back and a cool adjustable table that can conform to all different wheel confings. I have the design done, just need to build it.

Oh, I ditched the 8" dia drive pulley. It was too imbalanced and honestly, the damn machine was screaming fast, scared the heck out of me. I think I will go with around a 5.5 to 6" drive pulley that is balanced. With the 8" pulley it is moving at 4200 SFPM - I know that is suppose to be ideal for alum oxide belts, but its REALLY fast. I need to work up to it and build some confidence. :lol:

Also need to mount this on my grinding station.

I think this is going to work out pretty well and its really compact.

Thanks for watching, enjoy all the comments.

View media item 27190
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View media item 27192
 
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gdavis2265

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Vernmotor said:
What is that green belt ? kind-style-type ?
Click to expand...

Its refereed to as a "link belt". You can make a belt any length by adding or subtracting small little pieces. Its a wonderful invention. Also, Horror Freight sells them in the 'A' belt size. Don't know if that's a good thing or not.
 
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