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My 'L' shaped garage

soxmis457

Member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
19
Location
Hampshire, UK
Hi guys,

Well since I introduced myself, I've actually already built the garage/ wksp and very nearly finished the external works.

The story so far. I started thinking about a garage a few years ago but didn't want to have the usual 'single can't open the doors properly' type that we get here in the UK.
I'm a heating engineer and wanted cupboards for boiler spares and radiator valves etc. I came up with an L shape that served both my needs - a home for my VW Golf and a workshop for work. And it didn't increase the original footprint of the car port and garden shed by very much.

First the old shack had to come down. It used to be a 6 legged car port that I fitted walls to.

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Going, going....
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Gone.
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A new floor level had to be created and this was set at 4" above ground level.
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Water supply was next along with the conduit for the electrics.
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The concrete was ordered and poured and whilst it dried I showed 'black magic' his new home. Easy there, Lad. Got to find that oil leak first!
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On Friday 29 May 2009 all the timber arrived and my Dad came down to help me build it. We had 7 days to erect a watertight building before we had to go back to work.

I wanted a timber frame building that was insulated and built like you would build a timber frame house. The only difference being that we would build each wall from scratch on the concrete slab.

First walls going up.
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The orange membrane is similar to Tyvek Housewrap. I got it from Southern Timber Frame here in The New Forest. A UK retailer selling Tyvek told me I needed a minimum order of £175.00 before they would sell me some. That was 4 times the amount I required so I went elsewhere.

Day one (Saturday) over with, I parked black magic inside the walls.
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On Sunday, the inside corner walls went up and we started on the roof.
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Followed by the topping out ceremony.
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A couple of days later the garage door went in - not without it's own problems I might add. It fitted the frame perfectly but every time we opened the door it jammed halfway, bringing the cables off the drums which in turn activated the fall-safe locking system.

8 hours later we realised the spring which assists the door opening and closing had no tension. A completely wasted day.

Still, now it's in and looking good.
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The next day we covered the roof and put in the wksp door.
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Followed by the windows.
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And that's where I am to date. Apart from the garage door, every part of the build has gone without a hitch. But then, if you fail to prepare, you should prepare to fail!

So far I've spent £2,300 by using a timber frame and building myself. I did get 2 building quotes of £8,000 and £19,000. So I'm well happy. :bounce:

I'm still undecided whether to clad the outside with vinyl siding that you guys seem to use quite a lot in the States or western red cedar which is quite common here in the UK.

jimbo
 
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Ray-CA

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Joined
Jan 6, 2007
Messages
3,452
Location
San Diego CA
I'd be concerned about the lack of support in the walls. Here in the "colonies" the wall studs are at least 16" on-center. It looks like you have yours at 48"? Is that going to provide you with enough strength? Looks good otherwise. I like the "L" shape.

Ray
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
Ditto on the "not enough wall studs". Even at 2' on center would be more substantial that 4' centers. But other than that, it looks good!!!
 

PurdueSD

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 25, 2006
Messages
1,577
Location
Indiana
not to beat a dead horse- but at least throw in some more studs to get you to 24" OC, 16" being better....
 
OP
S

soxmis457

Member
Joined
May 16, 2009
Messages
19
Location
Hampshire, UK
Everybody says that. As we had never done this before, we needed to get it weatherproof in 7 days and didn't really know how long that would actually take.

Although I think it is already over engineered, I'm putting the extra studs and noggins in this week in the evenings as I'm back to work again during the day. I have extra pressure treated timber left over which will finish everything off.

There were three of us blokes walking about on the roof and there was no flex at all. To be honest, the pictures don't relay the strength or solidity of it.

jimbo
 

Fins/413

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2009
Messages
161
It looks good, I agree about the studs just because more is better and its and easy to add them.
 

proffe

New member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
1
Hello,

Your garage looks great and really good value too.

I am thinking of doing something very similar in my garden, but it will be used for a workshop and playroom for my kids. It will be a bit bigger.

Any advice on how you went about deciding what materials to use, how much you needed and where to get it from (cheapest suppliers)?

I am in the UK too, so maybe I can follow your lead if that's OK?

Thanks

Pete
 
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djd99

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Joined
May 4, 2009
Messages
1,006
Location
Owosso,Michigan
Everybody says that. As we had never done this before, we needed to get it weatherproof in 7 days and didn't really know how long that would actually take.

Although I think it is already over engineered, I'm putting the extra studs and noggins in this week in the evenings as I'm back to work again during the day. I have extra pressure treated timber left over which will finish everything off.

There were three of us blokes walking about on the roof and there was no flex at all. To be honest, the pictures don't relay the strength or solidity of it.

jimbo

Your garage looks good so far, But I have to agree with the other posts, in no way is this over engineered with 48" stud walls at a bare minimum it should be 24" otherwise nice space. There's too much weight on the top plate that could benefit from the extra stud to keep it from sagging or worse yet failing under load.
 
Last edited:

Costner

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2009
Messages
339
I have no idea what the inspectors require over in the UK, but here in the states that simply wouldn't pass code. You should have used a double top plate with stud spacing no greater than 24" OC. In your case I can see the top plate deflecting down the road at each rafter location.

To remedy this, I would insert a stud directly below each rafter location to transfer the load directly down to your concrete foundation. I would then add additional studs where necessary so there is no single span greater than 24" OC.

I think the one saving grace you have here is the OSB you used for the sidewalls as that adds a lot of lateral strength and will help with sheer, but with time that most likely isn't even enough. Once you put on the roofing material there will be a lot more weight sitting up there, so it is in your best interests to beef up the structure now while you still have the chance.

If you want to take it a step further, add a bead of construction adhesive on the sheathing before you install each new stud. Once that adhesive dries it will add a lot more strength to the wall unit. As a hint, you can drill a small hole at the top and bottom of each stud location from the inside out - that way once the stud is installed you can go outside - connect the two pilot holes with a chalk line and install screws along the stud to pull the stud tight against the sheathing.

By the way - what are those boards at the edges of your roof for? I assume those are temporary and will be removed at a later date?
 
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c5golfguy

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Joined
Aug 29, 2006
Messages
323
Location
Dallas, Jawja
Looks great.

Did you bolt the walls down to your concrete footers?? I dont see any connection points to the concrete???
 

Pointbock

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Joined
May 17, 2006
Messages
207
Location
AK
I'll echo what the others have said about additional studs and anchors (drilled and epoxied should be easy to add,) but I say go with the cedar siding. I have vinyl on my house and though it's mostly low-maintenance, it does grow some algae and it's just plastic pretending to be wood.

It looks like you could have a neat little patio area in the inside corner. show us more pics as you go.
 

thdewey

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2008
Messages
532
Location
Gastonia, NC
That is a great little garage. very cool. I for one love the layout.

Now I've heard of the green builders using a minimalist lumber strategy for framing. But you better be careful about it. This kind of wall has to be engineered. You have to mathematically justify NOT putting in studs every 16" to 18".
 

autoclassicnut

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Joined
Nov 24, 2007
Messages
1,383
Location
Montana
Don't you need some vertical bracing in the center of the rafters??? Of course we have to worry about a snow load here...
 

wrigh003

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2006
Messages
783
Location
Birmingham, AL
Definitely cedar for siding -- it's a much nicer material than vinyl, and will give you more of the timberframe "look" than vinyl.

And to echo all the other posts- definitely add more studs to support your header. I have a carport attached to my house that's kind of a timber frame type structure- all the major pieces of it are 6x6s. The 8 posts are 6x6's with 4x6's sistered to them. Beefy. The horizontal members (they'd be headers if there was anything but air underneath) have sagged probably an inch or so each over their 12' span where the rafters bear on them. And those are, again, 6x6 timbers. Gravity never lets up, I guess is the lesson.
 
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