My 'Little' Compressor Install

[EB.Bldr]

Ok fellas, finally bit the bullet on buying a compressor. Certainly not what I wanted but figured it would do for now. Kobalt 30gal mobile unit.

I initally wanted to jump and get the Quincy 60gal I hope to have in a detached shop/garage someday. But a better idea presented its self to me. Why not put a smaller unit in the basement next to the garage and run a hard line up to it so I still have air in the future when the shop is built.?. Save floor space and keep the noise down I figured.

My plans are to run 3/4" copper, L, up to the garage from the basement and have one regulated outlet and one running full psi. 155 is the posted max on this machine. I sketched out a couple of different options on the wall but will probably settle on something completely different. Who knows.

Anyways here are a couple of shots...

 

[LIVELY]

be forwarned---that compressor next to that concrete wall will be VERY NOISY-------the noise might even carry upstairs into your house[]

Running the line should work ok.

Good luck

 

[EB.Bldr]

The area in the corner is about 30" x 30" so plenty of room for the unit and I should be able to get 3 or 4 verticle runs in there with drains for moisture collection. Bonus comes from it just appeared to me. There was just a bunch of old boxes stacked up in there.

I just ran the compressor down to a turn on level and I could not even hear it in the garage. Sweet.

One question I have for the group is about the pipe plug on the side of the compressor. Can I get a replacement that is already tapped to attach the hard line to? I can probably drill and tap it but having a seperate one would work if I ever needed to take it out for some reason to use it.

 

[EB.Bldr]

be forwarned---that compressor next to that concrete wall will be VERY NOISY-------

Well I have some left over carpet pad I'm hoping to hang on the walls to help combat that. This unit is actually really quiet compared to the old Husky that I had initally.

 

[EB.Bldr]

Guess I should add that the storage room is below the laundry room on the opposite end of the house from anything.

 

[REAL HOT SCHITT]

Hi from n.z

all compressors are to be run at 90-100 psi, do not exceed as shrapnal can kill even at 50 psi.

Do not use copper as it cannot handle high pressures, vibration etc


please use galvanised pipe for line and if your rich? Google up and have a look for plastic high pressure air line which will not corrode.

It will pay if u built a concrete pad outside garage and bild a little compressor shed over it...like adog kennal.

Have a moisture trap at comp and moisture filter at end of line and drain daily at tank....this is important.


User of...atlas copco xas series 170 cfm, and i.r 15 cfm comps and construction gear.

 

[EB.Bldr]

Mmmmm...OK. I plan on using 'L' rated copper with silver solder that sould be good to over 300psi.

The compressor will be down in a storage room away from all persons in this house so I figure other than the sound I should be good.

Also hoping to run an auto drain for the compressor itself......Thanks!

 

[JohnJL]

You will want to use a flex line from the compressor to the pipe, you don't want the hard line connecting directly as it will transmit vibration and will suffer or fail from the vibration.

 

[mobetta]

your looking for a bushing to replace the plug.

 

[78Bird]

Do not exceed 90-100 PSI? copper isn't rated, LOLWUT?

As long as you use the up-scale copper (I think it's 'L') not the thinnest type, you're fine.

Even if you pop a leak in copper, it'll just leak not explode. If you worry about vibration, use a section of hydraulic hose from compressor to pipe to isolate it.

I'd use a ball valve at tank to provide a easy shutoff, copper pipe for best heat transfer and it won't corrode, and go with it.

 

[magnusk750]

Here we go again...

Copper gets brittle from vibrations. The first ft or so from the compressor should be flexible. Have a look at the piping diagram available at tptools.com

 

[Daddy_Rabbit]

lmao ...

 

[EB.Bldr]

...Copper gets brittle from vibrations....

Yes, my plans do call for running hydrollic hose from the compressor to the copper maze. LOL.

 

[EB.Bldr]

lmao ...

You lauging at my 'little' compressor? J/K.

 

[Thumper]

Hell.......just run one of those yellow recoil hoses from the compressor to the wall piping......low cost problem solved !!

 

[gmhill33]

Here we go again...

Copper gets brittle from vibrations. The first ft or so from the compressor should be flexible. Have a look at the piping diagram available at tptools.com

Why does the first foot or so have to be flexible and what happens if it isn't?

Thanks,
Gary

 

[Daddy_Rabbit]

You lauging at my 'little' compressor? J/K.

No sir, not at all <embarrassed>

Just snickering at some of the "advice" posted.

 

[69charged]

i find it funny as well. i think we go through a copper piping install conversation every few months. i used copper pipe and had NO problems at all. i even ran it solid right to the tank. although, i would use a flexible line instead for the first little bit. i ran mine like that for years with no problems.
clarence

 

[mdbeck1]

Why does the first foot or so have to be flexible and what happens if it isn't?

Thanks,
Gary

If you are hard plumbed to the compressor the vibration from the motor/compressor will transfer through metal pipe and vibrate inside the walls. The vibration will be heard and/or felt in different places in the house. The vibration can't transfer through a flexible hose.

Also the vibration is movement. That could end up wearing a hole through the pipe. It will take a lot of time but it does happen. One more reason for a short piece of flexible hose.

 

[gmhill33]

If you are hard plumbed to the compressor the vibration from the motor/compressor will transfer through metal pipe and vibrate inside the walls. The vibration will be heard and/or felt in different places in the house. The vibration can't transfer through a flexible hose.

Also the vibration is movement. That could end up wearing a hole through the pipe. It will take a lot of time but it does happen. One more reason for a short piece of flexible hose.

Never thought of that, makes sense.

Thanks

 

[John in OH]

You should absolutely use a flexible material between the compressor and the hard pipe. I use about 1' of hydraulic hose for all the reasons already mentioned above. If you look at nearly any air compressor manufacturer's recommended installation procedure, they all call for a flexible link between the compressor and the hard piping system.

Also, sometimes with a remote compressor it is easy to forget to regularly blow the moisture out of the tank. Make this regular blowdown of you tank a habit. As a heads-up, the moisture that you blow out often is a dark scuzzy brown or black and will stain your concrete floor ... you need to route your blowdown hose to a floor drain or other location that will capture this moisture without it messing up your basement.

 

[mdbeck1]

Never thought of that, makes sense.

Thanks

I'm glad I could be of assistance.

 

[pgreen]

I started with a small compressor, and then a friend gave me another small/medium portable. I have simply put the two lines together. I like it better than a big one, cause when the pressure drops to...I don't know, like 120 PSI, compressor 1 kicks in. If pressure continues to drop to like 110 PSI, compressor #2 kicks in and they both run. Very simple.

 

[EB.Bldr]

My original thought was to try and muscle a big 60gal down there until the detached is done. But I just figured moving that thing twice would just be counter productive. Besides the fact of having no air in the detached. This seemed to be the best route.

As stated above I do plan on running flexible hose between compressor and copper. But now I am thinking of trying to mount a retractible hose reel in the basement that will feed through the wall to the garage. Dont know if that is worth the extra trouble and not being able to regulate pressure without going through the house seems like a bad idea. Hmmm.

Anyone know were to get a new plug for the side of the compressor that is already tapped? If not what would be the optimum size to drill/tap it?

Thanks for all the responses.

 

[John in OH]

Unless you have an industrial supply store nearby, you may have a hard time finding a single bushing to go from the existing full size (1-1/2" NPT or 2" NPT??) to a satisfactory size (maybe 1/2" NPT). However, .... it may look a little hokey .... but you could use a series of bushings to get your required reduction .... 1-1/2 x 1; 1 x 3/4; 3/4 x 1/2; etc. These should be readily available at the box stores.

 

[EB.Bldr]

I'm not to worried abou hokey. I believe it is 1-1/2 and I plan on using 3/4 copper so I guess that would be only two. I'll look into it. THX...

 

[EB.Bldr]

Finished,

Turned out pretty much as imagined. Thanks for all the advise on fittings and what not.

 

[lonestarky]

Hey, Sorry I got to this thread late. Looks really good though. I wish I could have said this earlier, I hope you didn't drill/tap into the plug to mount the elbow there. Cast pipe sections are rated for a pressure...so once you drill into them they're no longer 'rated'. Like someone else said, the 'safe' way would be to buy pipe ******* and reducers to get to the correct size using rated fittings. If you don't have any trouble now, you probably never will.

I'm curious why you're regulating all the way up there, rather than at the source. Probably could have saved on plumbing components that way, black pipe being cheaper than copper. This does give you pressure flexibility in the garage though. I also probably would have put the quick disconnect and hose adapter facing out sideways, or up, but they can both be removed and drained.

I hope no one sees the teflon tape! That will start a whole other argument, thread wick, pipe dope, etc. Really nice work.

 

[LIVELY]

WAIT--are those wheels on the compressor rated for the amount of air that tank will have in it

i had to change mine because my tank holds 280 lbs and my wheels were only rated for 150 lbs !!!

 

[stafford]

I've gotta compressor that I pieced together, 120 gallon tank 5 horse motor and a big assed twin cylinder compressor I got some where. The first time I set it all up, I went toe the auto parts store and had a hydrolic line made up for the tank to compressor. It worked pretty good until I sandblasted about an hour and the compressor was running solid. I looked at the compressor and that line was swelled up about 3 or 4 times its original size and the damned thing blew out while I was looking at it. nearly burnt the place down. there were sparks coming from that hot rubber line and all that air rushing out of the tank, it was pretty scarey for a while. Like a dumb *** I had another line made up and put it back in there and it did the same thing. I plumbed it in SOLID with galvanized pipe and it's been there for probably 15 years and it's not given me any more problems whatsoever. Do not use a hydrolic line for anything but hydrolics.

 

[daveroy]

WAIT--are those wheels on the compressor rated for the amount of air that tank will have in it

i had to change mine because my tank holds 280 lbs and my wheels were only rated for 150 lbs !!!

Please tell me this is a joke!?

 

[jamesemery728]

Nice set up. I had my first compressor hooked up something like that for years with no problems at all.

 

[LIVELY]

YES DAVEROY--IT IS A JOKE

YOU REALLY NEED STEEL CASTERS TO HOLD THAT MUCH AIR

 

[dirttracker18]

I've gotta compressor that I pieced together, 120 gallon tank 5 horse motor and a big assed twin cylinder compressor I got some where. The first time I set it all up, I went toe the auto parts store and had a hydrolic line made up for the tank to compressor. It worked pretty good until I sandblasted about an hour and the compressor was running solid. I looked at the compressor and that line was swelled up about 3 or 4 times its original size and the damned thing blew out while I was looking at it. nearly burnt the place down. there were sparks coming from that hot rubber line and all that air rushing out of the tank, it was pretty scarey for a while. Like a dumb *** I had another line made up and put it back in there and it did the same thing. I plumbed it in SOLID with galvanized pipe and it's been there for probably 15 years and it's not given me any more problems whatsoever. Do not use a hydrolic line for anything but hydrolics.

Wow

Anyone else had an issue like this? Possible that the hose was rated too low? Could one not just use a piece of air hose and splice some appropriate ends on if thisis an issue?
I still think a complete hard line is asking for trouble but have no frame of reference to back this up.

Thoughts?

As for the OP, I was going to mention putting the regulator in the shop as opposed to in the basement. That allows you to make adjustments as needed.

 

[SgtRauksauff]

The hydraulic hose is rated for the pressure, but not the HEAT. The hose I was recommended to use was Thermoid Hercules 500 hose. I got 3/4"hose, it will turn right onto 1/2" black pipe fittings, and not leak. I put a hose clamp on just in case, but it works really well, and holds up to the high heat. Pretty cheap too. I think I got it from Murdoch Industrial in Ohio, but that was awhile ago.

I like the setup, it looks like it'll work good for you! I'd have made the drops for the air go up with a tee, then down with a couple 90° elbows, or if straight down, make a tee to the side with the connector, with a drain valve another few inches below. But since you're pumping the air UP from the basement, you're probably fine.

--sarge

 

[stafford]

The hose I used for sure wouldn't stand up to the heat! If I'd known there were different hoses I'd have gotten a better one. As it worked out it probably didn't cost ten or fifteen dollars to plumb with the galvanized, and it's held up well for years

 

[G_P]

There is no need to use galvanized pipe. Black steel pipe is just fine and can be had much cheaper than galvy.