My loft/elevated workshop garage project

[Bagsf18]

Well after some great info from memebers here I had a loft/deck built in my garage to become my "shop" space for my work bench and press. Also hold the fridge and other stuff.

The loft is 18 ft wide and 5 ft deep at the deepest part. I had 2 12 inch lvl beams (3.5 inches thick total) used to for the 18 ft span. The back wall is a 2x12 attached to the wall and 2x8's for floor joist. 6x6's support the lvl beam.

I have 6 ft 3 in of head room on the loft and 5 ft 8 in of head under the loft. The lvl beam is at 5 ft 3 in.

Anyway, just started getting it set up and figured I would share. Excuse the mess..lol

 

[53PontiacSD]

great use of space for a small garage.

 

[TK-421]

Good use of space. Like I've always thought, if you can't go out, then maybe you should try going up. Looks like that worked well here.

 

[Bagsf18]

Thanks... Still moving things around but got 2 cars in there!

 

[dare23]

Great job, thinking about doing something similar above my garage doors. Your post helps a lot!!! Nice Vette btw!

 

[-Brent-]

Neat to see this after reading your other thread. It looks great. Any plans to raise the fan? That will get your attention, quickly!

 

[Karl's Garage]

Nice use of space

 

[theoldwizard1]

... The back wall is a 2x12 attached to the wall ...

I am never a fan of ledger boards attached to exiting studs, especially if you are using screw/lags.

I would add some 2x6s flat against the wall, between the bottom of the ledger and the floor.

Are the LVLs sitting ON TOP of the 6x6s ?

 

[bczygan]

Yes, I would place 3 2x4's on the flat, against the wall and under the ledger. Fasten to the wall studs. These will act as columns to support the ledger and cut it's span as a beam. That ledger is a beam, and supports the same loads as the doubled LVL's do.

You could have used 9 1/2" LVL's and 2x6 joists at 24" on center.

Still a nice install.

Bill

 

[Bagsf18]

Neat to see this after reading your other thread. It looks great. Any plans to raise the fan? That will get your attention, quickly!

Thanks! Fan is moving over cars in the near future!! Lol

Great job, thinking about doing something similar above my garage doors. Your post helps a lot!!! Nice Vette btw!

Thanks. The space above my door did not work for me due to head space... I will show pics of storage i did above that.

I am never a fan of ledger boards attached to exiting studs, especially if you are using screw/lags.

I would add some 2x6s flat against the wall, between the bottom of the ledger and the floor.

Are the LVLs sitting ON TOP of the 6x6s ?

3.5 inch nails into studs. We talked about adding "legs" every 32 inches on ledger. I thought that might be overkill.

And YES on top of 6x6's



Here are more pics of the shelfs I did before the loft. They are above garage door obviously. I thought I was very clever in putting my compressor and hose reel up there. Even built a 2 inch ×2 inch box around
The compressor to keep it from rattling out. And a 4 inch hole underneath to open vent. And a couple pics during construction to give you a better idea of space under loft

 

[NUTTSGT]

It looks like you are trying to take advantage of every little space in your garage.


Second picture from the bottom, is that a palm nailer ?

 

[bczygan]

Oh NO! Nailing the ledger? No, no, no!

Lag screw it, but it needs the three supports I described above, to make the mezzanine able to support loads like a normal residential floor.

While the joists and LVL beam are way over designed, the ledger is way under designed, and a point of failure. I have checked your loads with tables for LVL's, joists and dimensional lumber. This is why engineering is important. To Know what different members can support and to make sure they are all equally capable. Please remedy.

Bill

 

[Bagsf18]

It looks like you are trying to take advantage of every little space in your garage.


Second picture from the bottom, is that a palm nailer ?

In the guys hand? No idea lol

Oh NO! Nailing the ledger? No, no, no!

Lag screw it, but it needs the three supports I described above, to make the mezzanine able to support loads like a normal residential floor.

While the joists and LVL beam are way over designed, the ledger is way under designed, and a point of failure. I have checked your loads with tables for LVL's, joists and dimensional lumber. This is why engineering is important. To Know what different members can support and to make sure they are all equally capable. Please remedy.

Bill

Bill, so you say 3 2x4's on the flat. The ledger is actually 2 pieces. One is 10 ft long the other 8 ft long. The back wall protrudes outs 15 inches.

So tossing 2 on the flat on the 10 ft ledger 32 in from each end ok? Then another 2 on 8 ft ledger at the same 32 in spacing ok?

 

[sean Buick 76]

Hi I really like the concept it looks really good...

I wish I could help with the clarification of what to do to beef up that ledger against the wall but the other guys will point you in the right direction for sure.

keep us posted I like the use of space! What size is the garage?

 

[theoldwizard1]

Why the built up shelf brackets on the left ? How are the diagonal braces attached to the vertical and horizontal pieces ?

The best connection for that brace would be mortise and tenon. Even dowels or pocket screws would not transfer much load before failing. No glue/adhesive works well on the end cut of a 2x4.

And those 2by shelves are way overkill, especially with 16" O.C. spacing of the brackets.


(I have used those metal shelf brackets on the right and they do hold a lot !)

 

[Bagsf18]

Hi I really like the concept it looks really good...

I wish I could help with the clarification of what to do to beef up that ledger against the wall but the other guys will point you in the right direction for sure.

keep us posted I like the use of space! What size is the garage?

Thanks! This is my 2nd house and I am attempting to have the "best" garage I can. And I am a damned hoarder when it comes to garage stuff so I need all the space..LOL

It's 22 ft wide x 24 ft deep (only 14ft of garage is this deep the other 8 ft is 22 ft deep) and it 's 12 ft 9 inch tall.

Why the built up shelf brackets on the left ? How are the diagonal braces attached to the vertical and horizontal pieces ?

The best connection for that brace would be mortise and tenon. Even dowels or pocket screws would not transfer much load before failing. No glue/adhesive works well on the end cut of a 2x4.

And those 2by shelves are way overkill, especially with 16" O.C. spacing of the brackets.


(I have used those metal shelf brackets on the right and they do hold a lot !)

On the 2x4 shelf brackets, it's 8 ft wide and I knew I was going to be putting my air compressor up there. Along with anything I could carry up a ladder! I can stack 2 of the standard 20 gal totes up there and then with the vibration of the compressor I wanted to build it as well as I could with my limited skill and knowledge. And I say that tongue in cheek, but I have not built much of anything wood prior to this.

IIRC I used either #9 x 3.5 or #9 x 3.0 construction screws AND wood glue. The thought behind the glue was having it on the threads made a "locktite" kinda bond and thus the compressor vibration may not loosen them.

The metal brackets are MUCH stronger than I thought. I tried to bend 1 while hanging onto it from the wall and it did not give no matter how much I pulled/bounced

 

[Laredo]

Love your plan and determination to make us of every square inch of space!

On the 2x4 shelf brackets...

When designing any load carrying structure, keep this mind...it is only as strong as your weakest support joint. You want your joints to meet or exceed the strength of your building material. That's partly the reason your metal brackets are as strong as they are.

In this case, that "weakest link" is definitely your screwed/glued attachments. Theoldwizard is correct, that's not a strong joint. In the interest of both strength AND efficient use of precious wall space, either use pre-made brackets designed specifically for load, or consider another joint method. What you have is probably plenty strong for your intended load, but you never know how the next owner might load the shelf, and you might be able to gain some wall space with smaller/fewer/stronger brackets.

Cool loft idea at the front of your space. I am thinking of something similar. How tall is your ceiling?

 

[bczygan]

In the guys hand? No idea lol



Bill, so you say 3 2x4's on the flat. The ledger is actually 2 pieces. One is 10 ft long the other 8 ft long. The back wall protrudes outs 15 inches.

So tossing 2 on the flat on the 10 ft ledger 32 in from each end ok? Then another 2 on 8 ft ledger at the same 32 in spacing ok?

Yes! Yes! Yes!

I've been holding my breath waiting to see if you answered. And I should have noticed the jog in the wall. Yes. And throw some 1/4" or 3/8" lag screws in the ledger and posts to keep them from pulling out from the wall. The ledgers have 125# per lineal foot load. And they are like a deck attached to a house. There have been lots of accidents where decks were just nailed and pulled away.

Why 32" from the ends?

Bill

 

[Dennx]

Looks good! I want to build a loft at the back of my RV garage.

 

[Bagsf18]

Love your plan and determination to make us of every square inch of space!



When designing any load carrying structure, keep this mind...it is only as strong as your weakest support joint. You want your joints to meet or exceed the strength of your building material. That's partly the reason your metal brackets are as strong as they are.

In this case, that "weakest link" is definitely your screwed/glued attachments. Theoldwizard is correct, that's not a strong joint. In the interest of both strength AND efficient use of precious wall space, either use pre-made brackets designed specifically for load, or consider another joint method. What you have is probably plenty strong for your intended load, but you never know how the next owner might load the shelf, and you might be able to gain some wall space with smaller/fewer/stronger brackets.

Cool loft idea at the front of your space. I am thinking of something similar. How tall is your ceiling?

Ok, I see your point there. Thanks for the insight. Ceiling is 12 ft 9 inches

Yes! Yes! Yes!

I've been holding my breath waiting to see if you answered. And I should have noticed the jog in the wall. Yes. And throw some 1/4" or 3/8" lag screws in the ledger and posts to keep them from pulling out from the wall. The ledgers have 125# per lineal foot load. And they are like a deck attached to a house. There have been lots of accidents where decks were just nailed and pulled away.

Why 32" from the ends?

Bill

You had me at Lag screw! Lol... I researched that better, and found you were correct. Lag screws were the way to go from the beginning. I am adding 5/16 x 4.5 lags ASAP. I happen to have some timberlok's ready to go

I guessed on what a good distance for load sharing was. 32in was just a guess on where adding support would be effective. If I need to add 3 to the longer wall, I will happily do it. I know just enough to be dangerous, but I am willing to listen and try and learn to be better.

I came here to help myself get the best garage I can. Sure, I wanna show off too, but I can learn better ways to do things AND show off too

Looks good! I want to build a loft at the back of my RV garage.

Thanks!

 

[theoldwizard1]

IIRC I used either #9 x 3.5 or #9 x 3.0 construction screws AND wood glue. The thought behind the glue was having it on the threads made a "locktite" kinda bond and thus the compressor vibration may not loosen them.

Wood glue does not bond well to screws.

Did you screw through from the back/top of the 2x4 into the face cut of the angled brackets or through the angle bracket into the face of the 2x4 ?

The second is better, but nowhere near as strong as those metal shelf brackets. I would swap them.

 

[TomcoPDR]

It's awesome how you're making use of every space available