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My Mobile Tool Box/Work Stuff

usdemt

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
644
Location
South Dakota
I do most of my work on the road so I finally picked up this trailer for a steal. Its plenty loaded up but room for more. I thought some of you might be interested Here are some pictures.

I am missing a picture of the top wide drawer with all my sockets.

Allen Drivers
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Ratchets and acc
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Bits
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Random drawer
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Hammers
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Combination Wrenches (Snap On)
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Misc Electrical
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More household tools, I travel with this box to college and since its mainly 12v electric and mechanical this is the small box for the other random projects around the house
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Screwdrivers
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GearWrench Wrenches
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Pliers
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Random
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Air tools and a few power tools. Just sold a lot of these with some new IR stuff on the way. but since I only carry a small compressor most of it is worthless unless I am home.
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Electrical connectors and misc, there are 6 of these containers in here with anything from diodes, to connectors to heat shrink.
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Inside of one of them
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The bag they are all in
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Makita 18v tools, these things are awesome
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More random stuff, fuses and circuit protection stuff mainly.
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The box in the back with the drop down ramp
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Inside (cardboard boxes are all wire loom of different sizes)
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More storage of extra ends and larger stuff like antennas etc.
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Power tools, grinder, recip saw, fuego hand held recip, PowerProbe 3
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The Trailer (still working on business decals for the side)
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usdemt

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
644
Location
South Dakota
Nice, you should get a hitch lock for that. While you're at it, get a wheel immobilizer.

I do, way too much money to be take away but it is sitting in the yard where a lot of people would notice it gone. I just use one of the hitch locks that fits up where the ball should be, its a smaller town so I dont think I really need a wheel immobilizer as well.
 

Az Scooter

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2009
Messages
1,500
Get a wheel immobilizer. I don't care how small the town is, or how open it is, it will disappear. Ask me how I know...:(
 

jeffk14

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 17, 2010
Messages
1,631
Location
GA
Nice setup. I saw the link in your sig. Is that the business that you do out of the trailer?

There's a ton of potential for a setup like that. Have you considered remodeling the interior of the trailer with fixed storage along the walls? Have you considered removing the wheels from the roll away and mounting it along one wall or do you roll it out when working on the road?
 

daveroy

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
735
Location
Omaha NE
So if all the loose stuff is up in front of the Tool chest, do you wheel the tool chest out at every service call to get to everything else? I would be looking for a way to not have to do that. Maybe mount the chest on a swing out arm or cut a second door in front of the wheels on one side and mount the chest to the floor right at that door. (make sense?)
 

redman43

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2010
Messages
181
Location
Lake Stevens, WA
I was thinking the same thing? Is there a side door?

Either way, nice setup. Looks like you got most, if not all, of the bases covered for what you need.
 
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OSAO

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2010
Messages
87
Location
Texas
One option would be to remove the tool box wheels and permanantly mount the tool box towards the front of the trailer. Having the weight towards the front of the trailer and fully dispersed (instead of at the 4 points of contact of the casters) would be a move in the right direction. You would get the added benefit of useable space in the rear 3/4 of the trailer. Plenty of space for a small tool cart, compressor & generator, and the transport of parts.

Also, get a lock like this, being sure to weld the brackets on (ask me how I know).

Hasp-HP.jpg
 
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usdemt

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Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
644
Location
South Dakota
To answer some questions, I have thought about permanent storage, however I do occasionally use this trailer for my toys (snowmobile and 4 wheeler) so I like to keep the option of emptying it and using it for that.

Also I do remove the box on big installs. If I am going to just fix a few things or throw in a few small lights I will leave it in, but for a bigger install its kind of a mobile workstation. Also the trailer is only about 60 inches tall and me being 6 ft 2 its a pain to have to duck into it to get at everything. I do most all of my installs at the departments so I dont always have room for the trailer inside and doing installs outside in South Dakota winters is out of the option. This is also my home box and I only have a small work shop so I when I work in there I also pull the box into my shop.

I plan on adding a bar up front to mount the spare tire under the tongue and also "kickstands" in the rear so if it is not hooked up to something it doesnt want to tip backwards. I havent had much problem with that yet but if my brother and I go to load it (400lbs combined + the box weight) it will want to tip slightly.

The next addition will be a roll cart for added storage and to have a much lighter platform with my most used tools to have at hand so maybe I can look at changing up the mounting of the box.
 
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usdemt

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
644
Location
South Dakota
O forgot to add that their is a side walk in door on the other side of the trailer than the one pictured. That is where the shots of the loom and storage boxes are taken, through the side door. So I dont have to pull the box to access anything.
 

daveroy

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
735
Location
Omaha NE
I plan on adding a bar up front to mount the spare tire under the tongue and also "kickstands" in the rear so if it is not hooked up to something it doesnt want to tip backwards. I havent had much problem with that yet but if my brother and I go to load it (400lbs combined + the box weight) it will want to tip slightly.

I would seriously think about moving the box forward. You should not have a trailer configured in such a way that the tounge is negatively weighted. You should in fact have a minimum of 10% of the trailer weight at the hitch. This will prevent tracking and bouncing issues.
 
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usdemt

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
644
Location
South Dakota
I would seriously think about moving the box forward. You should not have a trailer configured in such a way that the tounge is negatively weighted. You should in fact have a minimum of 10% of the trailer weight at the hitch. This will prevent tracking and bouncing issues.

Dont worry I do, Its just the addition of myself and my brother on the back drop ramp that causes issues. There is still plenty of tongue weight due to the rest of the stuff in the front.
 
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