My new $250 Saylor-Beall compressor

[flan]

Picked this peach up today off craigslist. Saylor-Beall 80 gallon VT-735-80 from a embroidery shop that was packing up and moving. The seller said it has a bad motor. Either way I think I did ok even with having to drive an hour each way to pick it up. Looks to be in good condition, may have a rebuilt pump. It has a tag on it from an air compressor shop in Macon GA. I don’t know much about these motors, are there common failure points a guy can diagnose and repair? I won’t have a chance to start tinkering with it til mid week. Will put some juice to it and see what happens. Suggestions welcomed! Thanks guys

 

[flan]

I forgot to mention I did see oil flung onto the safety cage, so it may need a shaft seal on the pump also. Oil level did look good in the sight glass.

 

[sberry]

Bargain, run it.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

flan...you ****! You stole that at $250...really.

Check the pressure switch first to make sure you're getting power to the motor.

As far as the motor, I'd start with checking the capacitors.

 

[pstemari]

Odd that the motor plate doesn't list a frame size. That makes replacement awkward.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[930dreamer]

The frame size is there but very faint.

184T?

https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/DAYTON-5-HP-General-Purpose-Motor-6K854

 

[pstemari]

D'oh! Yes, looking up the Grainger part number would have been the obvious thing to do if I wasn't half brain dead.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[jask]

very nice! I have pressure washer that I bought with a "dead motor" ... thermal reset switch was not obvious...
Did you also pick up that air dryer??

I would also check the cap(s) and contacts on the centrifugal switch before buying a new motor

 

[jask]

oh.... you ****!!

 

[flan]

I will put checking the switch on my list, the seller didn’t know much about the unit, and upgraded to a 3 phase after this one stopped working. It appears a L1430T baldor is a good replacement? I see they are also known as PN 09111961. They have some for sale on eBay if i need to go that route.

And yes, I agree the you **** comments are warranted

 

[flan]

very nice! I have pressure washer that I bought with a "dead motor" ... thermal reset switch was not obvious...
Did you also pick up that air dryer??

I would also check the cap(s) and contacts on the centrifugal switch before buying a new motor

I did not grab the drier not even sure what is is or does haha

 

[reptilezs]

I did not grab the drier not even sure what is is or does haha

if you spray paint or plasma cut the dryer would be great. should of got it

 

[flan]

if you spray paint or plasma cut the dryer would be great. should of got it

Don’t spray but do occasionally plasma cut. Have a moisture trap on the back side of the cutter been ok so far.

 

[Wamsutta]

Man that is an extraordinary deal. Even the paint looks new.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I forgot to mention I did see oil flung onto the safety cage, so it may need a shaft seal on the pump also. Oil level did look good in the sight glass.

flan, I just noticed that the pump is NOT a Saylor-Beall pump. The Saylor- Beall 705 pump does NOT have the cast aftercooler as yours does. Look at these two ebay links and compare...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacemen...PSI-Pump-705-Style/123108115974?hash=item1ca9

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MODEL-705-...O-STAGE-AIR-COMPRESSOR-BARE-PUMP/271847811463

I couldn't read the red sticker on your pump, maybe it gives the brand name. I'm just bringing this point up before you order that new seal or any other pump parts...heck if they copied the SB, they MAY use the same seal.

On another note...be sure to use a magnetic starter with a 5HP motor or you'll burnout the contacts in the pressure switch in no time. If the PO didn't utilize a magnetic starter, the pressure switch may be the first thing you need to check before investigating the motor.

 

[flan]

flan, I just noticed that the pump is NOT a Saylor-Beall pump. The Saylor- Beall 705 pump does NOT have the cast aftercooler as yours does. Look at these two ebay links and compare...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacemen...PSI-Pump-705-Style/123108115974?hash=item1ca9

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MODEL-705-...O-STAGE-AIR-COMPRESSOR-BARE-PUMP/271847811463

I couldn't read the red sticker on your pump, maybe it gives the brand name. I'm just bringing this point up before you order that new seal or any other pump parts...heck if they copied the SB, they MAY use the same seal.

On another note...be sure to use a magnetic starter with a 5HP motor or you'll burnout the contacts in the pressure switch in no time. If the PO didn't utilize a magnetic starter, the pressure switch may be the first thing you need to check before investigating the motor.

Yes I agree, I think it’s a replacement pump. I’m going to get an email out to the company to see if I can get some specs. They are still in buisness. Also I was literally just thinking to myself about weather I needed a magnetic started but you answered my question. I freely admit I know very little about large compressors but have been doing a lot of research to try and get this thing diagnosed and up and running. Big ice event up here in CT so been setting up temp power and been dealing with down trees etc. so haven’t had time to go out and look at the capacitors or pressure switch yet.

 

[flan]

Looks like a capacitor is swollen and a bit leaky. Also poked around the pump and didn’t see many markings. The seimens pressure switch looks like it has a 14/3 wire coming off it not sure if that’s indicative of having a mag starter. The larger wire comes right off the motor.

 

[flan]

How’s this look for a magnetic starter?

https://compressor-source.com/colle...ic-air-compressor-motor-starter-switch-msp30t

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Looks like a capacitor is swollen and a bit leaky. Also poked around the pump and didn’t see many markings. The seimens pressure switch looks like it has a 14/3 wire coming off it not sure if that’s indicative of having a mag starter. The larger wire comes right off the motor.

Well, the swelling and leaking are pretty good indicators that the capacitor is bad...Myself, I'd replace both. Here are my thoughts on the 14/3 wire...I'd say that at some point, this compressor had a 3 phase motor as #14 wire is too small for the amperage that single phase motor pulls AND 3 phase would require 3 wires. #12 wire would be minimum, personally I like to be safe...I'd go with #10.

How’s this look for a magnetic starter?

https://compressor-source.com/colle...ic-air-compressor-motor-starter-switch-msp30t

I used one of those for a friends compressor (he had already purchased it) and so far he hasn't had any issues with it. The price is really cheap when you compare it to a Square D or Cutler-Hammer.

 

[flan]

The company got back to me and stated it’s a sanborn sc-23 compressor. I got a capacitor on order and will get to ordering that mag starter.

 

[flan]

I replaced the capacitor yesterday and it started right up. Tank filled from empty in about 6 min.

So i have into it so far:
Compressor $250
Capacitor $13
Misc. drain parts $8
Mag starter $68
Fuel to go pick it up $20

About $360 for more compressor then I really needed.

And yes I know, I ****

 

[OccupantRJ]

You blew it. You cannot **** yourself on GJ.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I replaced the capacitor yesterday and it started right up. Tank filled from empty in about 6 min.

So i have into it so far:
Compressor $250
Capacitor $13
Misc. drain parts $8
Mag starter $68
Fuel to go pick it up $20

About $360 for more compressor then I really needed.

And yes I know, I ****

I assume you changed out the #14 wire to #12 or #10 and installed the mag starter? I'd also suggest changing out the oil and checking the air filter and changing if needed. I use either Amsoil or Royal Purple compressor oil in my pumps and have had good luck over the years.

 

[flan]

The mag starter should be here any day. I “hot wired” it just to run it and make sure it worked before hand. I will be switching out that wire from the switch to mag starter. I also will change the oil I need to extend the drain anyways, as of now it will run all over the compressor tank when you pull the plug. Who do you buy your oil from? I haven’t seen any in stores.

 

[bsaint]

https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-5-HP-General-Purpose-Motor-6K854

Its 184t

Anyways pretty awesome you got it going to far!

 

[930dreamer]

Did you see about the Speedaire dryer?

 

[flan]

No I never did ask about the drier. The seller is about an hour away from me and for the times I would actually need a refrigerated drier in my lifetime I could probably count on one hand.

 

[bsaint]

But if its free...

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

The mag starter should be here any day. I “hot wired” it just to run it and make sure it worked before hand. I will be switching out that wire from the switch to mag starter. I also will change the oil I need to extend the drain anyways, as of now it will run all over the compressor tank when you pull the plug. Who do you buy your oil from? I haven’t seen any in stores.

Regarding "that wire" the wire from the pressure switch to the mag starter would be fine as #14 as it only triggers the mag starter. It's the input power wire (that actually carries power to the motor) from the power source to the mag starter that needs to be #10.

Here are links for both Royal Purple and Amsoil...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PL9BVY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...mpressor-oil-iso-100-sae-30-40/?code=PCKQT-EA

 

[flan]

Gotcha, thanks

 

[RGausman]

As others have said you ****...

You may feel this air compressor is over kill now but when you get into media blasting you will be glad you did.

In 2014 my fustrations to get a good used 5 HP compressor, I end up buying a new SB 735 80g tank with the Aftercooler, auto tank drain, etc for 3K. Added Wilkerson water separator between the Aftercooler and the tank. I have only collected very little water in my filters after the tank and none in the air lines. Best life long shop investment.

Enjoy,

Bob G.

 

[Citation]

For what it's worth you might find the compressor noise is cut down if you slip about 20" of rubber hose onto the snorkel of the air filter housing. I'm not sure why it helps but it dropped my belt drive 120v compressor noise by about 3db. For $0.95 it was a good noise reduction. I can't say this is my original idea. I figured it out when I noticed how much quieter my CAT compressor was when I put the dinky looking OEM rubber tube into the air intake.