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My new drill press is here.

nissan_crawler

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As some of you have seen in the last threads, my HF drill press had bushings going out in the motor.

I was getting a Wilton press from Redmond Machinery, but they screwed up during moving the business, and sold the scratch and dent I was going to get for $489 instead of the regular $1100 something.

So, they manned up and sold me a comparable Jet one for $400!! that had no damage. Happy Customer.

Assembly is very straight forward (more so than the HF press even), however, it was everything I possibly had in me to get the damn head on top of the column. I would bet it weighs around 150 lbs easy, the entire press weighs 300 lbs. The table wasn't very easy either, to hold on the track and slide the track and table on the column at the same time. No design problem, just damn heavy. This really should be a 2 person job, or one person/cherry picker, but my cherry picker is loaned out to a friend pulling their motor. I WILL need the cherry picker to set it in it's spot, no way in hell I can move it now very easily.

Here's the press:

I didn't like the color at all, so I decided to paint it, no biggie, I knew I probably would before I ever saw it.
DSC00788.jpg


Sanded and primed it:
DSC00789.jpg


Shot some Rustoluem Hammered Dark Bronze on it (many other things in my shop this color or close):
DSC00790.jpg


Reassembled it, and wired it for 240V operation (still need a new plug):
DSC00791.jpg


Other side:
DSC00792.jpg


Front:
DSC00793.jpg


Pulleys and belt setup:
DSC00795.jpg


I have yet to wire the garage for 240v and put the plug on the press (will do that this weekend), but my preliminary observations are:

1. This thing is STURDY. The head weighs as much as the entire HF drill press. The table must weight 60-80 pounds on it's own, also.

2. It's setup for coolant, which I'm going to run on it. I'm also going to run a mill/drill table and a mill vise for accuracy.

3. The spindle has NO play in it that I can feel, big difference from the HF press (also quite a bit larger in diameter).

4. The motor although chinese, is ball bearing, cast construction, looks to be quite good. When you tension the belt, the motor doesn't deflect at an angle like it does on the HF press, it stays very true. Much more precise machine on the slides.

5. I was impressed with the fact that they send every tool needed to put it together (sure, I have all them anyway, but it's nice to see the thought). They also even leave an extra wire nut in the cover on the motor for converting to 240v operation, I was surprised to see that. Again, a $.10 item, but happy to see they thought of it.

I can't wait to run it and see the difference between 3/4 and 1.5 hp.

I'll post up once I get a chance to sink a holesaw in some 3/4" steel with it.

Here are the specs for it:
http://www.redmondmachinery.com/browse.cfm/4,869.html
 
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dxdexter

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Looks good. :thumbup:

How do you intend to run the coolant supply, if in fact you do, and is there a hole in the table for it to run through. I don't see one down through the center. If you are interested I could show you how I supplied coolant to my strikingly similar drill press.
 
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nissan_crawler

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Looks good. :thumbup:

How do you intend to run the coolant supply, if in fact you do, and is there a hole in the table for it to run through. I don't see one down through the center. If you are interested I could show you how I supplied coolant to my strikingly similar drill press.

I'm not sure if I'm going with flood or mist cooling yet, both have their disadvantages. Mist-getting in your lungs. Flood-funny stuff growing in it after a while, possibly running down a long part and off the table.

Their is a hole in the table on the back left side (as you're facing the front), you can see it in the second to last picture.

I'm interested in seeing your setup. There aren't many people running a cooling setup on their drill presses.
 

Wiggawam

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I think I am going to have to pick up that Wilton, killer deal it seems. Glad to see they made everything right with you.
 

Kevin54

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I'm not sure if I'm going with flood or mist cooling yet, both have their disadvantages. Mist-getting in your lungs. Flood-funny stuff growing in it after a while, possibly running down a long part and off the table.

Do not use the white type of coolant that looks like milk. It WILL sour and smell bad. Get a gallon or so of KoolMist. It's blue in color, will not sour, and does not bother your hands. We have been finding out at work that the white stuff, people are really starting to have skin reactions to it. I started using KoolMist a number of years ago and have been real well pleased with it.
 
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nissan_crawler

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Will do, thanks for the tip. I think due to length of the table I'll be using, and possible long steel parts, I'm going to go with mist cooling, we'll see.
 

Kevin54

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One thing I failed to mention...KoolMist can also be used as flood. KoolMist is just the brand name. We get ours from Grainger or at least grainger ordered it for us.
 

OldCarGuy

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Machine tools and equipment with the Jet name are cut above most Chinese imports and are exceptional value. The 20” model drill press that you purchased for $400.00 is a great purchase. With the low 150 RPM spindle speed you can easily drill a 1” hole in steel.

I second using the KoolMist instead of the white soluble oil. I use it as flood coolant on my surface grinders, lathe, and cutoff saw. And keep a spray bottle handy for use on my drill presses and a cup full of it mounted on the bench grinder. .
 

W-Cummins

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Press looks good! I wouldn't waste my time rewiring it for 240v. There are no good reasons to run a little motor like that at 240v None.... Zip.... Zilch... Switch it back and plug it in the wall and use it...

William....
 

dxdexter

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Press looks good! I wouldn't waste my time rewiring it for 240v. There are no good reasons to run a little motor like that at 240v None.... Zip.... Zilch... Switch it back and plug it in the wall and use it...

William....

Agreed, I also run mine (1.5hp) on 110v with absolutely no problems. Just seems like unnecessary work if it already has a cord and plug included.


Nissan,
What type of pump and pressures are required for the mist systems? Mine is a flood system and uses a parts washer motor, but I would consider a switch if there is a benefit.
 
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nissan_crawler

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Press looks good! I wouldn't waste my time rewiring it for 240v. There are no good reasons to run a little motor like that at 240v None.... Zip.... Zilch... Switch it back and plug it in the wall and use it...

William....

I'm running new wire either way. The drill press outlet is one of the few things I haven't yet rewired in the garage. If I'm doing it, I would just as soon run it on 240v. Dealing with the drill press side is as easy as cutting off and installing a new plug, no biggie.
 
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nissan_crawler

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Well, I moved the HF one out of the way and set it in it's place. I couldn't stand just looking at it, so I wired it back to 120 and tried it.

NOT GOOD.

It's quiet when you turn it on, but when you start lowering the spindle, it starts vibrating quite a bit, almost as bad as the HF one with a bad motor.

Also, I have tried reseating the chuck for over an hour, and something is just not right. Every time the drill bit wanders over 1/8". I tried it on 4 large bits, so it's not the bits... I even put them in the HF press to be sure. The arbor *appears* to be straight, by the eyeball, so I'm thinking the chuck is machined wrong.

DAMMIT. I don't have the time to deal with this ****, and I don't want to mess with packing a press back up.:mad:
 

MarkH

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New chucks are pricey, we were able to make a few Tradesman Drill presses we got really cheap at Orschliens a few years ago work acceptably after trading them out. I would take the chuck off and look at its mounting and see if it is straight also before sending the chuck in. In one case we had to replace both the chuck and mounting shaft. In our case we were able to get standard parts out of the Grizzly catalog.

It may be easier to get those parts vs swapping out the press, especially if it has been painted. In our case we expected to do something based on the price, we bought at a price that was disposal at close to scrap metal prices. I think the batch was bad and they were trying to get a few bucks vs pitching them.
 

W-Cummins

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Well you need to figure out where the problem is located. So do you have a dial indicator? Something that reads to at least .001 will be ok check the run out of the inside of the Morris taper surface at the bottom of the spindle. That way you can tell if it's the chuck or the spindle. Unfortunately if it's the spindle you will probably have to swap it out, as I would be VERY surprised if they will take the press back after you painted it. They put totally **** chucks on those import drill presses. I like the Rohm keyless chucks for a cost effective solution to the chuck problem. I have 3 of them now and they work great and are well made (German imports) you can't beat them for the money ( about $60 plus about $18 more for the Morris taper to Jacobs taper adapter.) I got mine on E-bay but if your in a hurry enco sells them for a little more $$ than above prices. The only down side to them is your can't reverse tap with them as they will looseen up if you do. Here is a link to the 1/8-5/8 j6 model

William....
 
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nissan_crawler

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Well, I tore the spindle out. A bearing wasn't seated quite right, and there was a burr on the splined shaft. The vibration mostly left (down to normal), and what's left is in the belt cover, so at least that was semi-easy.

Now, in the morning I'll go get a runout gauge and see what is messed up there. I think by the eyeball, it's just the chuck. Here's to hoping.
 

eschoendorff

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Well, I tore the spindle out. A bearing wasn't seated quite right, and there was a burr on the splined shaft. The vibration mostly left (down to normal), and what's left is in the belt cover, so at least that was semi-easy.

Now, in the morning I'll go get a runout gauge and see what is messed up there. I think by the eyeball, it's just the chuck. Here's to hoping.

Good luck with that... :lol_hitti
 
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nissan_crawler

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Well, I got a dial indicator. It only goes to .001, so by guessing, I would say the runout at the bottom of the spindle (on the inside) is about.0003-.0005 or so. I don't what's acceptable for this application. The arbor seems to be off the same right where it comes out of the spindle, which would support this measurement.
 

W-Cummins

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Well, I got a dial indicator. It only goes to .001, so by guessing, I would say the runout at the bottom of the spindle (on the inside) is about.0003-.0005 or so. I don't what's acceptable for this application. The arbor seems to be off the same right where it comes out of the spindle, which would support this measurement.


Half a thou sounds great for a a spindle on a cheap imported machine. Looks like your in for a new chuck. Remember a drill press is a rather crude tool, it's not a B&S jig boring machine...

William....
 
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nissan_crawler

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Half a thou sounds great for a a spindle on a cheap imported machine. Looks like your in for a new chuck. Remember a drill press is a rather crude tool, it's not a B&S jig boring machine...

William....

thanks for that, I wasn't sure:thumbup: Fawk, maybe this will be an easy fix after all.:fingersx:
 
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nissan_crawler

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I just put the chuck on and checked with a hole saw, and a 1" bit.

Hole saw showed about .015 runout, 1"bit showed about .018 runout (and that's with the measurement as close to the chuck as possible, not at the far end).:wtf::spit: That's a far cry from the .0005 on the arbor.
 
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nissan_crawler

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Well, that was easier than expected I called them and told the guy I dealt with the measurements of the runout.

"Is that .018" by the chuck or at the end of the bit?"
"By the chuck."
"Wow, that's almost 1/64".
"Well, get me your serial number, and the part number of the chuck in the manual."
I went and got that for him.
"Ok, I'll call JET and have them ship you a new chuck."

He never questioned it, didn't ask insulting questions, nothing. Great service. To me, that's what matters. **** breaks, it's a part of manufacturing, it's going to happen, that's just the way it is. It's how they fix it that matters to me.
 

Uncle Buck

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Well, that was easier than expected I called them and told the guy I dealt with the measurements of the runout.

"Is that .018" by the chuck or at the end of the bit?"
"By the chuck."
"Wow, that's almost 1/64".
"Well, get me your serial number, and the part number of the chuck in the manual."
I went and got that for him.
"Ok, I'll call JET and have them ship you a new chuck."

He never questioned it, didn't ask insulting questions, nothing. Great service. To me, that's what matters. **** breaks, it's a part of manufacturing, it's going to happen, that's just the way it is. It's how they fix it that matters to me.

Jet does have a great reputation. :thumbup:
 
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nissan_crawler

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I got the new chuck about 3-4 days ago and just got around to messing with it. It works perfectly.

I drilled a 5/8" hole, no pilot, no lube, in 1/4" plate and it took about 10 seconds @ 160 RPM. :wtf: The loudest part of it is the drill bit itself, this thing is QUIET now. Consider me happy.:bounce:
 

eschoendorff

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I got the new chuck about 3-4 days ago and just got around to messing with it. It works perfectly.

I drilled a 5/8" hole, no pilot, no lube, in 1/4" plate and it took about 10 seconds @ 160 RPM. :wtf: The loudest part of it is the drill bit itself, this thing is QUIET now. Consider me happy.:bounce:

Glad to hear that everything worked out. :beer:
 

64merc

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Glad to hear you got that thing running right!! Thanks for the update.
 
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