my new shop
- Thread starter ddjjeep
- Start date
gb387
Well-known member
Might be kind of cold in the winter!?!? No, only kidding, looks like a good start! Looks like a very nice location.
imported_banzaitoyota
Well-known member
Nice start! Is that a cummins?
safetyfast
Well-known member
Looks good. What size is it?
autoist
MEMBER EMERITUS
Hmmmmmm - a bit off topic; however, I want to build an inexpensive cabin on some lake property we have....what would keep me from sinking 4x4's in the ground, adding a band & floor & build it just like you're doing...could even have a lofy up in that high roofline?
autoist
MEMBER EMERITUS
Hmmmmmm - a bit off topic; however, I want to build an inexpensive cabin on some lake property we have....what would keep me from sinking 4x4's in the ground, adding a band to support floor joists & build it just like you're doing...could even have a loft up in that high roofline?
DynoDave said:Looks like it's going to be a nice place.
What are the old steps from?
I like the old Dodge. Modern conveniences are nice, but it's just more stuff to break down, IMO.
the steps were an old landing from a deck on my hose that we redid. I just pushed them over there to see what it would look like when the door goes in.
autoist
MEMBER EMERITUS
Where'd ya get all the brackets that hold the 4x4's together?
So am I interpreting that photo correctly?
There are steel brackets sunk into the slab that the posts bolt to? Also connecting the rafters to the walls?
Also, what are the black brackets on the tops of the rafters for? I assume to attach a wood deck of some sort for the roof, but I've never seen a building system quite like this.
There are steel brackets sunk into the slab that the posts bolt to? Also connecting the rafters to the walls?
Also, what are the black brackets on the tops of the rafters for? I assume to attach a wood deck of some sort for the roof, but I've never seen a building system quite like this.
I used kits from here: http://www.socketsystems.com/
Its basicly a pole barn. The base plates for the posts were set when the floor was poured.
I purchased the 6x6 timbers localy, and assembled the frames using the metal elbows. Then you build one complete frame and tip it up in its base plates (they act as a pivot point, and have little tabs for it to hinge on and keep it from kicking out as it goes up).
the whole process was extremely easy, asside from handling large 6x6s by hand at times.
the metal tabs on the roof rafters are for 2x6 roof purlins, they will stand up on edge and be screwed to the "L" brackets. I forgot to put them on two of the frames (got a little excited to put them up) and will have to go up on staging or a ladder and add them before I put on the purlins.
Price-wise, I could have built the same building with other meathods, but I realy liked the way this is assembled and how rugged it is. I was able to do all the pre-assembly by my self and it took just one other person and a small tractor to help me erect the whole building.
I recomend checking out the socketsytem's site if you are at all interested in doing a pole barn. there seems to be many advanteges to it.
Its basicly a pole barn. The base plates for the posts were set when the floor was poured.
I purchased the 6x6 timbers localy, and assembled the frames using the metal elbows. Then you build one complete frame and tip it up in its base plates (they act as a pivot point, and have little tabs for it to hinge on and keep it from kicking out as it goes up).
the whole process was extremely easy, asside from handling large 6x6s by hand at times.
the metal tabs on the roof rafters are for 2x6 roof purlins, they will stand up on edge and be screwed to the "L" brackets. I forgot to put them on two of the frames (got a little excited to put them up) and will have to go up on staging or a ladder and add them before I put on the purlins.
Price-wise, I could have built the same building with other meathods, but I realy liked the way this is assembled and how rugged it is. I was able to do all the pre-assembly by my self and it took just one other person and a small tractor to help me erect the whole building.
I recomend checking out the socketsytem's site if you are at all interested in doing a pole barn. there seems to be many advanteges to it.
MXtras
Well-known member
It's always neat to see unique or different methods - please keep the posts and the pics coming. Details, we need details.....
What's the plan for the exterior?
Scott
What's the plan for the exterior?
Scott
I will be keeping this thread updated as I go, but with winter setting in and an addition on my house keeping me busy, it may be a slow process for me.MXtras said:
The ultimate plans for the building are to do a metal roof, barn board siding, 2 10x10 garage doors on the front, a walk through door on the side maybe leading out to a farmers porch on one side, a few windows and a skylight I salvaged from my house. It will get fully wired at some point as well.
Probably a wood stove for heat and will eventualy insulate it. Right now its just one step at a time, trying to do it on a real low budget. So far, Im into it for a little under $4500 and that includes the materials I bought for the site work (3/4 stone, and some fill).
Wile1Coyote
Well-known member
Very cool thanks for sharing
a little update, progress has been slow because of the winter and an addition Ive been working on for my house. I managed to get most of my purlins and girts up though and my metal roofing is being delivered in less than a week. I still need to frame up my gable end walls, but Im going to try to get the roofing on first so that I will have a little protection from the rain. heres a few pics:
Attachments
cdrewferd
Well-known member
Any more updates? I am interested in this system and was wondering what your impressions are as far as cost, quality, and ease of assembly.
Ill have to take some updated pics tonight. The roof is 98% completed, just need to put the ridge cap and some trim pieces on. I started putting up some of the barn board siding this week also (mostly to get it off the shop floor to make room for more materials to build the gable ends). That is my next big step, Ive just bee trying to figgure out how I wanted to frame them. I think I have a plan together now and just need to go pick up some more lumber to work with.cdrewferd said:
My opinion on the socket system kits is that it has been slightly cheaper to frame the building compared to 2x6" stick framing. The quality and accuracy of the parts I received from them was top notch, no complaints there. and as I said before, I assembled most of the frame work of the building by myself and just had the help of a friend and a tractor to tip each frame up. It went very quick.
Only thing I didnt mention about the Socket System parts is that (like stated on their site) the metal sockets are designed to fit dimensional lumber (meaning they are slighty smaller than 6"x6") I bought rough cut lumber from a local mill and all of my beams were exactly 6"x6" or slighty (1/8") larger. I had to mark off the section of each timber that would be inside of the socket and router off about 1/4" on two sides of it. This was the most time consuming part of the assembily process and could have been avoided had I asked the local mill to cut my timbers just under size a bit. I also made sure that I routered the same 2 sides on both ends of the beam and same on all the other beams so that they would all be slighty off set in the sockets in the same direction through out the building.
SCOOTER
Well-known member
I'm digging it ....keep up the good work....
monkeyplasm
Well-known member
Dopey question...
I like the way the hinged baseplates allow you to pivot the main building trusses into place. However, are these 6x6 posts (which hold up the entire building) then held up by the pivot bolt in shear? Or, once the trusses are vertical is there another step to get them anchored?
I like the way the hinged baseplates allow you to pivot the main building trusses into place. However, are these 6x6 posts (which hold up the entire building) then held up by the pivot bolt in shear? Or, once the trusses are vertical is there another step to get them anchored?
Re: Dopey question...
No, the bottom of the base plate on the 6x6 sits sqaurely on the floor (actualy on top of the plate that is anchored to the cement) All the vertical weight is on the bottom of the socket that is on the 6x6. The lag bolts go in after the building truss to a verticle postion to help told it verticle. Alone, Im sure the 2 lag bolts arent enough to keep the frame from tipping back down (although, the frames felt very stable after lag bolting them) but once you attatch all the horizontal boards (girts and purlins) the frames dont want to tip back down at all.
the lag bolts are not the pivot point, if you look at a closer pic on socket system's web site, you will see that the base plate assm. is two pieces: an anchor plate, shaped like a "C", that is anchored to the slab with large J bolts durring the pour. And the second part is a socket that fits over the bottom of the 6x6. The socket piece has a tabs on one side that fit into a notch in the base plate. These tabs and notch act as the hinge or pivot point during errection, once verticle a pair of lag bolts go through holes in both the base plate and the socket piece into the 6x6.
monkeyplasm said:
No, the bottom of the base plate on the 6x6 sits sqaurely on the floor (actualy on top of the plate that is anchored to the cement) All the vertical weight is on the bottom of the socket that is on the 6x6. The lag bolts go in after the building truss to a verticle postion to help told it verticle. Alone, Im sure the 2 lag bolts arent enough to keep the frame from tipping back down (although, the frames felt very stable after lag bolting them) but once you attatch all the horizontal boards (girts and purlins) the frames dont want to tip back down at all.
the lag bolts are not the pivot point, if you look at a closer pic on socket system's web site, you will see that the base plate assm. is two pieces: an anchor plate, shaped like a "C", that is anchored to the slab with large J bolts durring the pour. And the second part is a socket that fits over the bottom of the 6x6. The socket piece has a tabs on one side that fit into a notch in the base plate. These tabs and notch act as the hinge or pivot point during errection, once verticle a pair of lag bolts go through holes in both the base plate and the socket piece into the 6x6.
monkeyplasm
Well-known member
Re: Dopey question...
A-Ha! That's the bit I missed. From distant memory of looking at the SocketSystems website: I thought there was some feature about an "air gap" under the truss posts.
Hmmm. Found this picture on the website. Where is this air-chamber, under the 6x6 post? If the truss post isn't resting on the ground, then what is holding it (and the building) up?
Maybe there is a (better be fully) welded-in bottom plate to the post-holder (socket-piece). Even then the post holder stansfers the weight of the structure to the ground by it's own sidewalls (in order to maintain the air chamber? Trust factor for this very small surface area holding up the building is low. I must be mis-interpreting something.
The plot thickens!
ddjjeep said:These tabs and notch act as the hinge or pivot point during errection, once verticle a pair of lag bolts go through holes in both the base plate and the socket piece into the 6x6.
A-Ha! That's the bit I missed. From distant memory of looking at the SocketSystems website: I thought there was some feature about an "air gap" under the truss posts.
Hmmm. Found this picture on the website. Where is this air-chamber, under the 6x6 post? If the truss post isn't resting on the ground, then what is holding it (and the building) up?
Maybe there is a (better be fully) welded-in bottom plate to the post-holder (socket-piece). Even then the post holder stansfers the weight of the structure to the ground by it's own sidewalls (in order to maintain the air chamber? Trust factor for this very small surface area holding up the building is low. I must be mis-interpreting something.
The plot thickens!
vintagegto
Active member
ddjjeep said:
What is the estimated cost of this project. I caught this when you first started and checked out the socket-system website. I am so impressed by this system and what they have to offer that I can't wait to get started. I am interested in a similar setup as yours but with the loft feature for a place for storage and an office. By the way, you are doing a great job, and looks like it's going to be finished by the end of the summer,if not sooner? Are you adding heat and all the goodies?
I need to finally have a garage big enough to do my kit cars & restorations.
vintagegto said:What is the estimated cost of this project. I caught this when you first started and checked out the socket-system website. I am so impressed by this system and what they have to offer that I can't wait to get started. I am interested in a similar setup as yours but with the loft feature for a place for storage and an office. By the way, you are doing a great job, and looks like it's going to be finished by the end of the summer,if not sooner? Are you adding heat and all the goodies?
I need to finally have a garage big enough to do my kit cars & restorations.
thanks, Id say Im going to be into it for around $7k when Im done (with the structure anyway) more $ will follow as I add accesories and a lift. My goal is to have it weather tight by the end of the summer maybe have the electrical done too. It will probably get a wood stove in it for this coming winter (I have a lot of srap wood and trees to burn off) but I have a Propane hot air furnace for it as well.
Its moving along pretty well now, Ill try to post some updated pics tonight. I started the gable wall framing last weekend and also got the walk through door installed. I keep finding more things to add (transom windows over the walk through and garage doors, more windows on back and side walls) and that sets me back everytime.
Id like to build the loft this winter if all goes well.
