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My new Snap on Box and help with leveling

camaro0991

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May 4, 2011
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127
Hello All,

So yesterday I added a new toy to my garage. I now own a 108" Snap On KRL1024, which is a quad bank box. I got it because there's some slight damage to it on one side...just cosmetic, all drawers function as they should. The $1500 price tag was to good to pass up:D:bounce::beer:

Anywho....due to my sloped floor there's a 1.5 inch different in height between the front and back of the toolbox. My previous craftsman box flipped over due to this unevenness so I'm a little nervous about this behemoth falling over with a drawer open. With a toddler running around I need to secure it the best I can. What can I do to level this? I was considering removing the wheels and building a frame out of 4x6's, or finding leveling feet to hold the box up. Has anyone done something like this before and could help guide me in what they did? I like the leveling feet idea but don't know how to attach them in place of the wheels.

Thanks all in advance.:beer:
 

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Heavy Metal Doctor

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Unless you need to move it often, then just shim it under the wheels with some blocks to get it reasonably level and set the caster brakes. I did this in our old building, which had a significant slope to the floor. When I needed to move it again, just raise it with a floor jack and remove the shims.
At the same time, I would not be as worried about tipping of that box as it has a lot more mass to it. I've had full deep drawers roll open while moving bigger boxes like that around the shop and never had one topple, but the rest of the box was also pretty well loaded to counterbalance it.
 

kythri

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A 2x4 or 2x6 is 1.5" tall on the short side - might be incredibly easy to shim with one of those.
 

wkndwarrior29

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To fit it under a bench and level it, I took the wheels off of one of mine and bolted 2x4's to the mounts - then shimmed them to level. It works great but keep in mind if you are in a humid environment it can wick moisture.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 
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camaro0991

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Unless you need to move it often, then just shim it under the wheels with some blocks to get it reasonably level and set the caster brakes. I did this in our old building, which had a significant slope to the floor. When I needed to move it again, just raise it with a floor jack and remove the shims.
At the same time, I would not be as worried about tipping of that box as it has a lot more mass to it. I've had full deep drawers roll open while moving bigger boxes like that around the shop and never had one topple, but the rest of the box was also pretty well loaded to counterbalance it.

I thought about just shimming it...which would work.....but i think i want a more permanent solution. Its probably never going to move from the spot its in.

Here's hoping it doesn't fall man....i have nightmares of my son pulling it over when I'm distracted.
 

lugnut71

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Awesome box, awesome price, are you going to straighten the flange out and install new piece of trim ? For leveling it I would jack it and turn all the wheels in line with the box, set all the brakes, them shim the low side. If you use a 2x4 or 2x6 you could paint the wood black, maybe run the board the full length instead of short pieces for each wheel
 

Heavy Metal Doctor

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I thought about just shimming it...which would work.....but i think i want a more permanent solution. Its probably never going to move from the spot its in.

Here's hoping it doesn't fall man....i have nightmares of my son pulling it over when I'm distracted.

How permanent do you need...mine sat that way from 1995 to 2010 :bounce:
 
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camaro0991

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Awesome box, awesome price, are you going to straighten the flange out and install new piece of trim ? For leveling it I would jack it and turn all the wheels in line with the box, set all the brakes, them shim the low side. If you use a 2x4 or 2x6 you could paint the wood black, maybe run the board the full length instead of short pieces for each wheel

Im going to try straightening it out. It looked worse previously. The side is bowed out a bit too....but the drawers work perfectly. So its more of a cosmetics thing. the guys insurance company bought him a brand new box, So i got this from them.

I might just shim it, I'll look at it tonight. The other benefit of pulling wheels is dropping it down a few inches. Its alot taller than I initially expected.
 

lugnut71

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So thinking run a 2x6 the entire length of box, paint it black, set it back a bit so not flush with box, then either use like 1/4 wood painted or aluminum diamond tread and attach to 2x6, boxing in the front , could also do the sides. The only way that box is tipping over is if too many drawers were opened all at once.
 

seber

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My first thought is fix the floor. OK, I get that won't happen. 1 1/2" aluminum cut to match the caster mounting plate with four holes and new mounting screws would be the second best.
 

Druder

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I like that idea, if you don't use PT seal the bottom of the wood and it should last as long as you need it to.
 
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lugnut71

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And if you make the 2x6 the right length , the side box plates could attach to the ends of it. I think it would look good painted black, the a toekick under a kitchen cabinet.
 

chrismenke

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If you use the caster mount holes to put leveling feet on it, you'll have room to get forks or a low profile jack under it if you need to move it down the road. You'll need some sizable leveling feet though...
 
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camaro0991

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If you use the caster mount holes to put leveling feet on it, you'll have room to get forks or a low profile jack under it if you need to move it down the road. You'll need some sizable leveling feet though...

I really liked this idea...problem is i dunno if theres feet out there heavy duty enough to fit in those hole....and hold the weight of the box.
 

SRSemenza

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I guess I am just curious ................ what's up with the floor? Is it set up for a drain or something? Is it just where the box is located or does it really drop 6" in 8'?

And, awesome deal on that!

Seth
 

Heavy Metal Doctor

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I guess I am just curious ................ what's up with the floor? Is it set up for a drain or something? Is it just where the box is located or does it really drop 6" in 8'?

And, awesome deal on that!

Seth

Many shops are built to drain out, either the door, or to a floor drain. Often times it's a noticeable slope like the OP describes. I think it's especially bad with older construction, maybe the concrete practices used to be towards steeper slope, while newer building it's just enough.
And with good boxes with roller bearing drawers slides, it pretty easy for one to drift open on such a slope. I have a small SO box in storage container which I set as level as I could get it and it still leans towards the back wall just enough that I have to hold the drawer open or it will roll shut on it's own....kind of a PITA when I need to sort through contents of said drawer....
 

gerryw

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Many shops are built to drain out, either the door, or to a floor drain. Often times it's a noticeable slope like the OP describes. I think it's especially bad with older construction, maybe the concrete practices used to be towards steeper slope, while newer building it's just enough.

very common in any snowfall area's, most residential area's around here have sloped floors (think melting snow) plus drains are not common here, it might be a against code (freezing, pollution concerns) residential.

just thinking out loud, what about a 2-3" black pipe coupler, with a ******, and a wall flange to level, wall flange on caster mount, ****** in between, coupler @ bottom, then adjust accordingly?

oh yeah I forgot, OP YOU ****!!

Gerry
 
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camaro0991

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I guess I am just curious ................ what's up with the floor? Is it set up for a drain or something? Is it just where the box is located or does it really drop 6" in 8'?

And, awesome deal on that!

Seth

So theres a center drain in the iddle of the room and floors slope towards it. The slope is more significant rogjt against the wall. Garage was built in the 60s so things were different back then. My old craftsman boxs detents were weak...so one day multiple drawers opened...and caused 20 years of tool organization to spill all over my floor. Doing all ican to prevent that.

I think im goingto jack the box up..and drop it on 4x6s. Then use 2x4s as shims on the 4x6s to level it out...ill take pictures when im done.
 
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camaro0991

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Here's the end result. The stacekd 4x6's holding it up....then the pine board is going to be painted the same color as the box and used to cover up the front, making it look more bench like. I thought about putting diamond plate there, but its cost prohibitive as to some paint and a board.

Now I just gotta decide weathe i want to put some vintage stickers I have on the box. I'm torn. It looks so good without them, but would look good with them too. Also though about the muscle car box decals, but snappy doesn't make them anymore.
 

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NUTTSGT

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First I've seen this thread, so first off, you ****. Second, great box for the money.

If it were mine, I'd paint the toe kick either black or try to match it up to the floor. white/black/white/black.
 

rsanter

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If you do not plan to move it much, what I would do is either add spacers between the casters and the box so it sits level in the spot you keep it or I would use a floor jack to lift the front and install spacer blocks under the wheels.
If you never plan to move it then remove the wheels and make adjustable legs and pit it in place

Bob
 
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camaro0991

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and here is the finished product.....jacked up with 4x6's to tip ever so slightly back...black kickerboard underneath....
 

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