my new tool box..

[MD11]

Long story short.. I had all my tools lifted a while back, the insurance money finally came in and we ordered everything all over... the good news, it's its all new and shiny again! Not all my drawers are organized yet, so here are 3 of em... I even got my collectors wrenches out for display since everything looks so nice and new!

btw, anyone have any suggestions on drilling an eye bolt into my garage floor? It is a post tension slab.. but I think a 3-4" depth hole should be ok, what do you think?

Enjoy the eyecandy!

 

[Shocker]

WOOT! Sorry to hear about the stolen stuff, but it sounds like it worked out in the end!

I assume that the bolt is to chain down the box?

 

[MD11]

WOOT! Sorry to hear about the stolen stuff, but it sounds like it worked out in the end!

I assume that the bolt is to chain down the box?

Oh yeah.... I can't imagine the insurance co will be happy if I have another 15K claim for stolen tools!

I've never drilled into concrete, can I use my regular metal/wood bits you think, or MUST I use a specialized concrete bit? Any basic suggestions on this procedure would be much appreciated..

 

[Nealcrenshaw]

Wooohooo, Very nice!!

Those black Snapon wrenches look iniquitous.

 

[CamarosRus]

That is a KRL1022 Box ????? I have 1022 in Electric Orange

Is that what you had before? Curious how the insurance claim went on a $7500 retail box??

 

[CamarosRus]

Use masonary bit and drill correct size hole for one of those concrete anchors ????

Screw eyebolt into anchor and run chain through eye............

How will you secure chain to box?? Maybe use wheels bolts ???

 

[MD11]

Use masonary bit and drill correct size hole for one of those concrete anchors ????

Screw eyebolt into anchor and run chain through eye............

How will you secure chain to box?? Maybe use wheels bolts ???

It's the slightly smaller version.... the KRL 7022... one less full length drawer than the 1022.. Yeah, it was a hard sell to get insurance to fork up.. but I used to have a no longer made KRA series (forget the number now) and it was less expensive, but they went ahead and gave me full replacement cost of a similar KRA, so I just paid the extra $2K and upgraded to my dream box.... wife wasn't too happy!

Anywho... yeah, I want to "Anchor" the box to the eyebolt and lock it up via either the underbelly drainholes, or maybe the caster.. I think the drainholes might be the best bet (I assume their drain holes, they may also be there to save some weight, but look under, they're there.)

Think my 6855 "mother of all cordless hammer drills" will be strong enough? I hate to mess this up! I do have some good cobolt bits that are made for metal, you don't recommend I use them? It's no biggie to get a masonry bit if I have to I suppose... I want to do it right!

 

[rocketman]

Someone come and steal all my tools please!!! : )

 

[gc427]

Masonry bit and a good hammer drill will do the job very nicely.

Glad you got your new tools and box. Wives are never happy when you get a "new box."

You might want to add another chain or two to that box and hook up a couple nasty pit bulls or rottweilers to it for an added layer of protection.

 

[sandersd]

Make it easy on yourself: rent a Hilti roto-hammer from HD or other. It will be a 30 second job (as long as you don't hit rebar) with the Hilti, but with a 1/2" hammer drill, it can be a drawn-out and frustrating experience. Just my 2 cents...

 

[MotoDave]

Wow, great looking tool box. I'd really like to upgrade to one that size. Some day ...

 

[McDowell]

rent or borrow a good rotary hammer (Hilti, etc as mentioned above) and i would consider using epoxy to secure your anchor rather than a lag sheild or any type of mechanical anchor. if you can screw it in, someone can screw it out too. epoxy is more permanent.

congrats on the great looking tools, btw.

 

[jjsound]

rent or borrow a good rotary hammer (Hilti, etc as mentioned above) and i would consider using epoxy to secure your anchor rather than a lag sheild or any type of mechanical anchor. if you can screw it in, someone can screw it out too. epoxy is more permanent.

congrats on the great looking tools, btw.

from a guy with a few years of concrete construction experience, i'd have to agree with this... 1/2 hammer drill will do it. hammer drills greatly reduce the time involved.

 

[jjsound]

if you're within a reasonable distance, im in Fond du Lac, WI, i have these tools...

 

[MD11]

from a guy with a few years of concrete construction experience, i'd have to agree with this... 1/2 hammer drill will do it. hammer drills greatly reduce the time involved.

Alas, I'm in Phoenix, AZ... but but thanks all for the offers of assistance and advise.. Just to be clear, are you saying that THIS will not be enough to drill a 3-4" deep hole? If so, I will have to try and borrow a plug-in one then..

 

[jjsound]

hammer drills are just more... efficient. im sure that would get the job done. also, for one hole there are some cheap mason bits out there.

 

[twostory]

A Just to be clear, are you saying that THIS will not be enough to drill a 3-4" deep hole? If so, I will have to try and borrow a plug-in one then..

I just drilled two 1/2 holes in some concrete today. I bought a $15 masonry bit at Lowes, use a 1/2 hammer drill. I drilled down 6 inches in a few minutes each hole.

TIP, pull the bit out every inch as you drill, then use a shop vac and a air hose to blow out the dust and **** the dust into the shop vac. If you do not clean you hole frequently, it will take more time.

 

[Romanova]

Love the color choice on the new box. Really stylish.

 

[MD11]

ok sounds good.. I will try the hammer(ing) action wrench, if that don't work, and my Makita 6349 drive drill is a lost cause (as I assume it will be), I will just rent a tool form Home Dept..

Any recommendations on an anchoring method for the eyebolt? Somehow, screwing it in by hand ala-wood screw style that just doesn't sound too easy to do..

 

[MD11]

Love the color choice on the new box. Really stylish.

well, the flashy colored one stuck out like a sore thumb which prolly contributed to it being stolen.. figure from a distance this will just blend into the garage...

 

[Zrexxer]

Any recommendations on an anchoring method for the eyebolt? Somehow, screwing it in by hand ala-wood screw style that just doesn't sound too easy to do..

In my 'hood, anything that isn't firmly anchored to something immovable goes away and becomes crack. So I've been down this road some... first, you want to use expanding sleeve anchors like this:

The sleeve catches in the hole, and as you tighten the nut down it grips tighter and tighter, kind of like the old Chinese finger trap. You will need a nice, dimensional hole to install them, they don't work well in a wallowed out hole so take the previous good advice about a rotary hammer.

Then, make yourself an anchoring plate in whatever configuration you like - one side will have a 1/2" hole to go over the anchor stud, and the other will have a hole large enough to accommodate a cable or whetever you're going to use to secure the item.

Bolt the anchor plate down to the floor like the sketch below. Now, the beauty part - take your welder and tack the nut to the stud. That way there's no unbolting it. Pulling one of these anchors out when properly installed will take a huge amount of force, and there's one thing about crackheads, they're lazy.

 

[MD11]

In my 'hood, anything that isn't firmly anchored to something immovable goes away and becomes crack.

ROFL ... that's a good one!

I will try your brilliant idea... sounds like it might also be more reversible for when I eventually move and need to remove the securing bolt.

 

[Zrexxer]

ROFL ... that's a good one!

I will try your brilliant idea... sounds like it might also be more reversible for when I eventually move and need to remove the securing bolt.

You can just cut the bolt off with a cutoff wheel in an angle grinder flush with the floor and abandon the remainder in place, if that's acceptable.

 

[gorilla]

Try to arrange your concrete anchor, your attachment to your toolbox and your chain and lock so that they are under the toolbox, this will make it much harder to cut the chain or break the lock.

 

[MD11]

Try to arrange your concrete anchor, your attachment to your toolbox and your chain and lock so that they are under the toolbox, this will make it much harder to cut the chain or break the lock.

another brilliant idea! Glad I asked for help here. Yep, I was worried that a smart robber would just bring bolt cutters, but this would complicate things and make it harder to get leverage to cut a chain.

 

[firebird 97]

Next go see which one of your friends has new tools that look like your old ones. Hate to say it but it was some one that you knew that got your box. Good luck

 

[MD11]

Next go see which one of your friends has new tools that look like your old ones. Hate to say it but it was some one that you knew that got your box. Good luck

Yeah, I'm one step ahead on that.. the two main suspects I have are both people I know, but not quite friends. Thing is, Insurance company now owns those tools if they're found as I've had it all replaced.

 

[rsanter]

very nice
I think that is the one I would buy new if I were to get one
I would love to have the sockets and ratchets in the deep top one and then wrenches in the next one

bob

 

[rebrewer]

Snap-on makes a floor anchor kit for this box. I'd start there.

 

[rebrewer]

Ask your dealer for the "Floor Lock Kit". It's not on the web site, but likely in the catalog.

 

[MD11]

Snap-on makes a floor anchor kit for this box. I'd start there.

Gotta link?

I can't find anything on the website except under misc. accessories they have a "Floor Locks Kit" but when you click on it, you get a message that they don't sell this anymore.

 

[MD11]

Ask your dealer for the "Floor Lock Kit". It's not on the web site, but likely in the catalog.

beat me to it.. ok, will do.

 

[usmc_noma]

if you dont get a floor lock kit, just use the holes on the underside you talked about. use carriage bolts placed upside down into the bottom. on the inside bottom box, get a 1/8th or 1/4" steel or aluminum plate about an inch or so wide. drill holes into the strip then thread your bolts through and put decent size washer, lock washer, and nut.

i basically did this to secure a small box to my truck bed but had wingnuts in the box. carriage bolts were fed through an aluminum strip, truckbed, a nut, and then into the box. if i ever needed to remove it, i just loosened the wingnuts and took out the box. the nut on top of the truckbed kept the bolts in place till i put the box back.

hope this makes sense.

 

[Benw455]

That is one sweet box!

 

[Pappa Ugg]

Wooohooo, Very nice!!

Those black Snapon wrenches look iniquitous.

iniquitous? wickedness, unrighteous? WOW.. I never expected to see that word used on a Forum full of garage freaks.. good job

And I agree the black Snap On wrenches are cool looking....

Mike

 

[F450Mikey]

Why not just take it off the casters and place it on a couple of 4x4s? Or you could fab up a nice stand/pedestal for it to sit on.

 

[MD11]

iniquitous? wickedness, unrighteous? WOW..

Yeah, I had to take out my dictionary for that one!

 

[MD11]

Why not just take it off the casters and place it on a couple of 4x4s? Or you could fab up a nice stand/pedestal for it to sit on.

Partly because those casters look so freakin badass!

But I have come up with a good security plan. I will be welding a bracket to a large concrete filed pipe that's 3' away from the box and then attaching it via a reinforced steel chain from Masterlock that I got a great deal on with amazon.com.. That along with keeping my garage door closed at all times when I'm not in the garage should do it!

 

[mrb]

In my 'hood, anything that isn't firmly anchored to something immovable goes away and becomes crack.

god that is hilarious.

 

[MD11]

for anyone interested, here is what I ended up doing. I welded a hardened steel U shaped rod onto the concrete filled poll in my garage (this pole is to protect the water heater from being hit by a car).. I then attached two super heavy duty Masterlock chains via heavy duty Master lock locks to it... on the other end, I used two Masterlock bike locks which I put one thru the axle of one caster, and the other around where the caster mounts to the box... this way, if the thief wanted to take the time to disassemble them, he'd be stuck with a box with no wheels on one side making it for all intents and purposes impossible to move. Being in a residential garage and in a moderately safe neighborhood, I think this should be good enough to keep the "crime of opportunity" types out but ultimately if someone plans it, they can steal anything if they want to put the right effort into it...

Your comments and suggestions are welcome.