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My New (used) Kobalt Compressor!

Ed_EOD

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Dec 4, 2009
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North Pole, AK
OK, so I got this for $150 today. 1.8hp 30gal 155psi. We plugged it in at the guys house and it built pressure and held it for as long as I was there. Man this thing is quiet, we stood right next to it BSing. Even when I got home it still had the same pressure. The problem is, when I went to flip it on in my garage....nothing. Just a click. What could have gone wrong between my house and his? Also it has a broken gauge and the nozzle in the pic is broken. Are those important?
 

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WRX/Z28

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Roebling, NJ
Maybe obvious, but did you pull the release valve until the pressure dropped low enough for the comp to kick back on? If it's holding pressure, it won't turn on just by plugging it in, the tank has to be below 125psi if I remember correctly...
 
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Ed_EOD

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Yeah its down to about 50psi or so now. Im guessing the brass valve in the front os the release valve, I pulled it with pliers.
 

WRX/Z28

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and the off/auto lever/switch is set in the right position?

Try calling the lowes help line? I think there was one on the side of my unit.

Check for power at the outlet? Did it trip the breaker on that circuit? I know my old comp tripped the breaker all the time till I got it on a dedicated circuit...
 

darkzero

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Yeah its down to about 50psi or so now. Im guessing the brass valve in the front os the release valve, I pulled it with pliers.

That valve is a safety relief valve (aka PRV), it's purpose is to prevent your tank from turning into a bomb if the pressure switch were to fail as in the contacts getting stuck & not shutting off the motor.

It's best to use the drain at the bottom for releasing pressure so any moisture that has accumilated can be released too. But it is a good idea to pull the safety valve every so often to make sure it's working fine.

Since the hole for the pull ring is broken, if you do decide to replace it, be sure you replace it with the same exact PSI rating as the one you have.

Hope you get it running again. As recommended check the breaker & make sure you don't run it with any extension cord, plug it directly into the outlet (without anything else running on that circuit if possible).
 
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Ed_EOD

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North Pole, AK
OK, I got it going. The was a connector that came loose in the box. It's purring like a kitten now. The only problem now is it seems to get up to about 130 before slowly falling to about 120 the turning off. Any ideas?

Two more things. What type of maintenance should I perform on it now? Also what are the two gauges for?

Please pardon my compressor ignorance.
 

darkzero

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You should probably replace the broken gauge on the left before determining if you really might have an issue with pressure drop as you mentioned.

The larger gauge on the left is tank pressure, the smaller gauge on the right would be regulated pressure, the pressure going to your air devices. Hard to tell but the smaller gauge does look like a regulator. Is that a knob on the back/bottom of it? Turning the knob will adjust the line pressure.
 
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Ed_EOD

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Yep the gauge on the right has a knob below it, that makes sense now. I actually fiddled with the broken one and it turned out the needle was on the wrong side of the stop pin. I still may replace it though.

What about changing the oil in the compressor?

I'm pretty happy with this so far, considering I was pissed I missed out on the "Great Lowes Compressor Deal." Just going by the numbers, this one is better and I paid way less.
 
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darkzero

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You have the 155 max psi model so if your gauge doesn't even get close to that psi the gauge may need replacing considering it's condition.

Generally the only maintenance you need to worry about is keeping the filter clean/changing it, changing the oil, periodically draining the tank to let out moisture, & draining the particle/water seperator after the regulator (if that's what it is).

See if you can find the manual online or go to a Lowes to loook at one to see what weight oil the pump is recommended to use. It might also even say on the compressor somewhere. It should most likely be 30 or 40wt. My guess is 30wt/ISO100. Or judging by your location, 20wt/ISO68 might be suitable? Not sure if it's that cold there to justify the weight change. Be sure to use non-detergent oil though. Don't use regular motor oil.
 
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Ed_EOD

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Well it has been in the -40s this week but it will stay in a heated garage, so it doesn't matter. There is an oil recommendation sticker, but I'll have to look up how to change it. Getting the manual is a good idea, Lowes doesn't sell this model anymore, but I'm sure I can get one from the company.

Oh, and welcome to the forum!!
 

fr0mastaj

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Jan 18, 2010
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MA
I have the (newer?) generation of this from the Lowes deal thread.

The bottom circle is a 10mm bolt that is your drain plug. It really helps to have something like a form-a-funnel to avoid a mess as it drains.

The top circle SHOULD be your fill port, although I am not certain for that model.

And the brass sight glass to the right is for checking the oil level. The manual for mine says exactly in the middle is full, however mine was unboxed with oil with the glass entirely full. I have since changed it with the Kobalt synthetic air compressor oil as the sticker recommended, to the middle of the sight glass.

Hope that helps.
 

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pipsters

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That valve is a safety relief valve (aka PRV), it's purpose is to prevent your tank from turning into a bomb if the pressure switch were to fail as in the contacts getting stuck & not shutting off the motor.

It's best to use the drain at the bottom for releasing pressure so any moisture that has accumilated can be released too. But it is a good idea to pull the safety valve every so often to make sure it's working fine.

Since the hole for the pull ring is broken, if you do decide to replace it, be sure you replace it with the same exact PSI rating as the one you have.

Hope you get it running again. As recommended check the breaker & make sure you don't run it with any extension cord, plug it directly into the outlet (without anything else running on that circuit if possible).

FWIW the manual for my compressor stated to use the relief valve to bleed down to 20 psi and then open the drain plug after that to release the rest of it and the moisture.
 

kams1973

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Oct 3, 2010
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Amarillo, TX
I have that compressor. When new, there was a sticker on it that read "this compresssor requires fully synthetic 10w-30 motor oil"
 

darkzero

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Oh, and welcome to the forum!!

Thank you very much.


FWIW the manual for my compressor stated to use the relief valve to bleed down to 20 psi and then open the drain plug after that to release the rest of it and the moisture.

Good point. I suppose that would be the best & safest (on your ears) way. In my case I have a 60gal compressor with a 17gal tank piggy backed to it so it doesn't make sense for me to relieve pressure before draining. Those SRVs are loud, I try to avoid touching it as much as possible. I leave my tanks pressurized most of the time, I have a ball valve with a hose attached to it for the the drain & drain moisture before I start to use it.


I have that compressor. When new, there was a sticker on it that read "this compresssor requires fully synthetic 10w-30 motor oil"

Thanks for confirming. I heard that some new compressors recommended synthetic motor oil, some even specifically Mobil1. The key there is synthetic & regular motor oil should never be used. Nothing filters the oil so non detergent oil is required. Compressor oil is formulated for non-foaming but I guess motor oil would be too.

If it were me I would use 0w-30 Mobil1 Synthetic over the 10w-30 but it's not sold everywhere. I use Amsoil ISO100 Compressor Oil.
 

pipsters

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Campbell Hausfeld says to use Mobil 1 10w30 for their cast iron compressors or equivalent compressor oil.
 

Super Sport

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Jun 30, 2011
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West Michigan
Are you guys who own one of these happy with it? I just ran across one for sale. Is it powerful enough to run an occasional air tool?

Think it will fit in a sedan?
 
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