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My OCD strikes again

66HertzClone

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 6, 2006
Messages
4,033
Location
Long Valley, NJ
I have been working on making a filler panel to close the gap between a benchtop and the wall it backs up against, the concrete footing protrudes out about 4 1/2 inches and created this gap. We routed out a 3/4 x 3/4 section along the back edge of the top, measured and cut a section of polar to fill it in, fastened a 1 x 2 along the wall and dropped the poplar in place. Fits almost perfect, I'll fill in the tiny seam with some filler and I've sanded the entire work surface so I'll give it all a fresh coat of varnish.

I have hung some commonly used tools on the boards on the wall and want to add a set of metric, 1/4 drive deep sockets which I already own. My OCD kicked in when I thought the socket holder for these should match the others already there. No name on these, no numbers, nothing that helps me identify the manufacturer. The sockets on them are from different suppliers, there are two sets from Gearwrench, and a set from Icon. I did look at the Gearwrench site and didn't see any that looked like these. The posts are not magnetic, there is a spring loaded steel ball to hold the sockets in place. I searched my Amazon purchases and don't see any that match these, so I am t a dead end. Anyone here recognize these rails?
 

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MoonRise

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
4,028
Location
NJ
OCD would be grain-matching your filler strip to the existing grain of the workbench top.

Which means matching the species of wood too.

And it looks like your filler strip is not level, it seems to be a little low at the wall compared to the workbench surface. That could just be the picture. But you need to get the machinist's level out and verify that the filler strip is level with the workbench. Shim it as needed, or put some jacking/leveling screws into the filler strip.

And your dry-erase board is crooked. The smaller ball pein hammer is not plumb. Same with the HF picks on the mag strip, not plumb.

I can't tell if you properly clocked the recesses on all your Phillips head screws, but the one visible Phillips head screw in Pic #2 does not have the recess properly vertical and horizontal.

And you are missing the trim washers underneath those same Phillips head screws on the vertical black bars for your red wall panels.


Which shows up as the flat-head screws not sitting flush in the black bars because the bars probably don't have a countersunk recess for a flat-head screw to sit in, thus you need the trim washers. Or you need to properly countersink the screw holes in the black bars for the flat-head screws to sit flush.

And your bright zinc plated screws stand out against the black mounting bars. You should change the screws to black oxide to blend in with the black bars better.





And it's CDO, because the letters have to be in alphabetical order.

:lol_hitti

On a more serious note, consider putting a trim strip like some shoe molding or quarter round or cove molding at the joint between your filler strip and the vertical wall. It helps to reduce 'stuff' from getting into the seam. Stuff like small fasteners, skinny pins or nails, sawdust, general dust, etc. Especially with the slightly not-level filler strip tilted back towards the wall slightly.
 
OP
6

66HertzClone

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 6, 2006
Messages
4,033
Location
Long Valley, NJ
OCD would be grain-matching your filler strip to the existing grain of the workbench top.

Which means matching the species of wood too.

And it looks like your filler strip is not level, it seems to be a little low at the wall compared to the workbench surface. That could just be the picture. But you need to get the machinist's level out and verify that the filler strip is level with the workbench. Shim it as needed, or put some jacking/leveling screws into the filler strip.

And your dry-erase board is crooked. The smaller ball pein hammer is not plumb. Same with the HF picks on the mag strip, not plumb.

I can't tell if you properly clocked the recesses on all your Phillips head screws, but the one visible Phillips head screw in Pic #2 does not have the recess properly vertical and horizontal.

And you are missing the trim washers underneath those same Phillips head screws on the vertical black bars for your red wall panels.


Which shows up as the flat-head screws not sitting flush in the black bars because the bars probably don't have a countersunk recess for a flat-head screw to sit in, thus you need the trim washers. Or you need to properly countersink the screw holes in the black bars for the flat-head screws to sit flush.

And your bright zinc plated screws stand out against the black mounting bars. You should change the screws to black oxide to blend in with the black bars better.





And it's CDO, because the letters have to be in alphabetical order.

:lol_hitti

On a more serious note, consider putting a trim strip like some shoe molding or quarter round or cove molding at the joint between your filler strip and the vertical wall. It helps to reduce 'stuff' from getting into the seam. Stuff like small fasteners, skinny pins or nails, sawdust, general dust, etc. Especially with the slightly not-level filler strip tilted back towards the wall slightly.
Ouch, the good news is that now that the filler panels in place I will get after cleaning up all of those things that just aren't right. The filler strip is level and so is the bench top, the floor however isn't so we leveled everything except the Lista cabinet bases. Today I will be applying a coat of poly varnish to the sanded workbench top and filler panel. I purchased some quarter round yesterday that will go around the perimeter of the bench top, I'll be using a thin molding mounted to the bench top of hide the gap created by the leveling of the bench top. And, yes I will be painting the silver screws and placing washers where needed.
 
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