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My options for 100% solids solvent based epoxy under $1.50/sqft?

Dave88LX

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Nov 25, 2006
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664
Location
York, PA
I feel like I've been reading forever on here, and researching forever too. I have 1,344 sqft to cover (28' x 48'). So, I can't afford to spend as much on a higher-end epoxy system as I would be able to if I had a smaller garage. This will be DIY, I don't have $4000-$6000 to spend. I read the sticky on epoxies, but it's fairly outdated, and difficult to get the make-up of some products. I'm hoping you guys can tell me which products fit the bill for me.

I have already done the prep work, acid etching, rinsing etc. I am looking to spend no more than $2000 for the materials to do the floor, but of course the less the better.

I will be doing a bit of everything in there - parking, floor jacks, jackstands, grinding, cutting, building cars, limited welding (not worried about that, I will put down protection). I'm basically saying that this garage will be used. Not to the extent of a full-blown mechanic shop, but it's not just to park in.

I want a flaked floor, leaning towards the medium-heavy concentration of flakes.


I have already ruled-out Rock Solid flooring, it's about $2.50-$2.75/sqft. I do not want RaceDeck, too much money; although I may put it down in just my engine-building room.

It looks like UCoat It UltraLife High-gloss Textured Flake finish would barely fit my budget at $1.49/sqft...but it's water based it looks like, and I don't think it's the 100% solids that the pros on here seem to recommend.

Epoxy-Coat looks like it would work also, and it's 100% solid epoxy. $285/3 gal covers up to 500 sqft. (on sale)

The Wolverine product interested me, but I see it's no longer available to DIY...but I've received info that it may possibly be available here in short time...I don't know the cost though.

There is also the Rustoleum Professional solvent-based kits too from Lowes that are an option.

I'm listening...:shocking:

- Dave
 
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04 Navi

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Jul 13, 2005
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PNW
FWIW if Wolverine decides to sell it to you get it. I am happy with the product, but if I did it all over again, I would go with a grey (I did tan) because the clearcoat is somewhat sensitive to UV and order a little more for a really thick finish. I would also have way more flakes, or none at all.

I knew that I should have practiced on the in-laws place first.
 

DynoDave

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Mar 25, 2005
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Michigan
04Navi, did your job come in under $1.50 sq. ft.? Also, you mentioned the clear being UV sensitive....what's it doing? Discoloring? Just by the door, or everywhere?
 

04 Navi

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Jul 13, 2005
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PNW
04Navi, did your job come in under $1.50 sq. ft.? Also, you mentioned the clear being UV sensitive....what's it doing? Discoloring? Just by the door, or everywhere?

My floor did come out to less than a $1.50, but I did not buy from Wolverine direct as he was not selling to the DIY at that time. I purchased through Budget Bob.

As for the UV part, it's strong on the outside of the door and somewhat around the atrium door that has a mat in front of it. Inside it's not bad, but I have not been through a summer yet, that's why I was suggesting going with a darker color to minimumize the effect of the UV.
 

AlphaGarage

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Apr 16, 2008
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Every Garage, AnyTown, USA
When pricing out products, for a level playing field, factor in the finished depth of the coatings.

According to their MSDS the UCoatIt product is about 41% solids. They suggest that 2 gallons of their product will cover approx 540 sq ft. That would mean a depth of 5.92 mils when wet, and 2.43 mils when it's finished curing.

Whereas with a 100% solids epoxy 2 gallons would cover that same sq ft at 5.92 mils when finished.

So one would need 4.88 gallons of 41% solids epoxy to get the same finished coat depth as 2 gallons of 100% solids epoxy.

But even at the same finished depth the diluted product would probably be a bit performance challenged because it would be riddled with microscopic tunnels created as its solvents percolated to the surface during curing.
 

mister honey

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Dec 24, 2005
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eastern blowville heights, ohio
I was one of the last guys to squeak in on the Wolverine DIY offer. I have all the product at the ready, but have not applied it yet.

My cost per square foot is $1.47, which includes a 5-8 mil primer coat, a 20 mil color coat, and two 5-8 mil top coats...roughly 35-45 mil total thickness.

Mike
 

drivinhard

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Sep 9, 2007
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Location
Braselton, GA
I was one of the last guys to squeak in on the Wolverine DIY offer. I have all the product at the ready, but have not applied it yet.

My cost per square foot is $1.47, which includes a 5-8 mil primer coat, a 20 mil color coat, and two 5-8 mil top coats...roughly 35-45 mil total thickness.

Mike

ditto here
 

Gar442

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Joined
Apr 7, 2008
Messages
5
Location
Ray Twp. Michigan
I did research like you and finally decided to go with 100% solids epoxy. I have done 3/4 of my garage in gray with a light coating of black, white, and blue epoxy paint chips. So far I love the product and it sure seems like it is high quality. 2 days after applying I actually gave it a test of dropping tools and hitting it with metal objects and wow, very strong with little or no affect.
I did run short on product due to mixing more than I could spread out before it started setting up. I have more on the way to finish, then will clear coat to seal in the chips. Will be finished this weekend! :)

This epoxy costs less than .70 ft. Not bad.

I will be posting pictures of the project and final results soon.

Wish I had could let you know how it lasts over time, I do plan on coming back to let you all know peridically how it's holding up.

The product is called ArmorClad Check it out.

http://www.armorcladepoxy.com/
 
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Ranger1227

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May 5, 2008
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Out of curiosity, why did you choose Armorclad over epoxy-coat or some of the others?
 

shocksystems

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Mar 17, 2007
Messages
497
Location
Ipswich, MA USA
I did research like you and finally decided to go with 100% solids epoxy. I have done 3/4 of my garage in gray with a light coating of black, white, and blue epoxy paint chips. So far I love the product and it sure seems like it is high quality. 2 days after applying I actually gave it a test of dropping tools and hitting it with metal objects and wow, very strong with little or no affect.
I did run short on product due to mixing more than I could spread out before it started setting up. I have more on the way to finish, then will clear coat to seal in the chips. Will be finished this weekend! :)

This epoxy costs less than .70 ft. Not bad.

I will be posting pictures of the project and final results soon.

Wish I had could let you know how it lasts over time, I do plan on coming back to let you all know peridically how it's holding up.

The product is called ArmorClad Check it out.

http://www.armorcladepoxy.com/

Have you posted pictures yet?

Cheers!

Jim
 

AlphaGarage

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Joined
Apr 16, 2008
Messages
1,298
Location
Every Garage, AnyTown, USA
I did research like you and finally decided to go with 100% solids epoxy. I have done 3/4 of my garage in gray with a light coating of black, white, and blue epoxy paint chips. So far I love the product and it sure seems like it is high quality. 2 days after applying I actually gave it a test of dropping tools and hitting it with metal objects and wow, very strong with little or no affect.
I did run short on product due to mixing more than I could spread out before it started setting up. I have more on the way to finish, then will clear coat to seal in the chips. Will be finished this weekend! :)

This epoxy costs less than .70 ft. Not bad.

I will be posting pictures of the project and final results soon.

Wish I had could let you know how it lasts over time, I do plan on coming back to let you all know peridically how it's holding up.

The product is called ArmorClad Check it out.

http://www.armorcladepoxy.com/

When comparing costs per sq ft, it's critical to factor in just how much product will be on that square foot when all is said and done.

In the case of the $.71/sq ft epoxy mentioned above, using their info and pricing one would only have 8 mils of depth after the cure. Better than nothing, but a bit thin for a floor that's going to see any sort of action.
 

Shea

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Sep 19, 2012
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Location
California
Just a suggestion - you may get an answer quicker if you send him a private message. Not everyone subscribes to posts and he may not even see this since the tread is 8 years old.
 
OP
D

Dave88LX

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Joined
Nov 25, 2006
Messages
664
Location
York, PA
Hi, it has held up great! I have a Mustang that leaks oil, ATF, coolant, and brake fluid. All of those sat on the floor for a month, and all wiped up with no ill effects or staining on the floor. Had a dead mouse that died (DCON) and embedded itself against the floor. Bit of brake cleaner and some paper towels, and that little guy's remains came up as well.

Search me out for started threads on here and you'll see some more from me about it.
 
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