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My Pex-Al-Pex Air Install

raf0419

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Good day gents!

So I recently responded to a post after for the first time after lurking on here for years. Doing so felt great!

I always had intentions about posting something useful, but never did. About 1.5y ago when researching my shop air install this site was invaluable. I decided to go the Pex-Al-Pex route. Thanks to those who posted, I was able to pull this off, but I recall few images were available. When I did my install, I took a few photos as I went a long. I will try to share what I learned. If I'm replicating something that's been said, I apologize in advance.

Though took photos with intentions of posting immediately, over 1y has passed since the install I can't remember details on my costs, but I recall saving >30% over what I would have paid going with a name branded product.

Yes pipe would have cost less, but this was easy and met my needs. Plus I hate pipe fitting. (Probably because I **** at it).

Hopefully I'll have no issues posting the images.
 
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raf0419

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I went with a 3.5hp 60ga Puma from Northern.


I added a 90 degree fitting and some copper tubing with a ball valve to make bleeding easy.
 
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raf0419

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I picked up ~400' of Pex-Al-Pex from a heating supply warehouse online. I also sourced fittings from there. (Sorry this is where I lack details)
 
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raf0419

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In this image I've laid out regulator, fittings, tools, etc. You'll also see some rubber hockey puck looking disks which went under the compressor for vibration dampening. I believe I picked them up from Northern as well.
 
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raf0419

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I decided to go with the Rapid air surface mount outlet. This was not my cheapest option, but it is clean and simplified things for me. I have a large shop at 50x75 and I decided to use a loop system with 9 drops (not all are shown in this image). In all honesty I went overboard with the drops. I have used all of them, but only 4 see routine use. You'll need an adaptor to get from the 1/2 out on the port to your 1/4 NPT quick connector.





Here are the assembled outlets front and rear view:
 
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raf0419

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Quick edit- I just tested each roll for leaks. I didn't test each cut section. I went to my max output of 155psi.


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79firebird

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Used the same stuff at my old work. 1 3/4 all around the shop loop system 2 compressors 20 drops tested at 180psi works awesome. 13 years later it's still fine and was 1/4 the cost .
 
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raf0419

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This is 3/4". I needed the larger size to cover the distance I wanted to run.


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raf0419

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FWIW this stuff rolls out pretty easily. It was a little cool when I did my install so straightening the "pipe" was a little challenging. I suspect a summer install or a warmer shop would have been easier. My runs aren't perfectly straight as it was hard to shape out. For my needs this isn't a problem. More images coming tonight. Tomorrow when I get home I'll take some final install images to post as well.


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ADSR

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I'm going with the cheap plumbing pex crimp on fittings...

rifeng$11109235.jpg


step7-close-pex-tool-jaws.jpg
 
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raf0419

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I want to say I was "all in" at around $800. I know it was cheaper than going with a Rapid Air system. Nothing wrong with that system as it's "certified" for compressed air, but it was more than I wanted to spend. I'll do some digging to see if I can find my receipts. The surface mount blocks were ridiculously expensive nearly $30 each if I recall correctly. If I had to do it over again I would have probably only installed 1-2 of the 3/4" surface mount blocks. The smarter and more cost effective route would have been to reduce down to the 1/2" surface mount block, but I didn't think of that until after I had it all up.
 
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raf0419

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I think for 1/2" the compression fittings are fine. My theory was that the prepackaged and "certified" systems use something other than pex crimp on fittings so I tried to stay with what works.
 
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raf0419

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For those that are wondering the difference between the "cheaper" brass fittings and those from a "certified system", here you go. This is a side by side comparison of how the fittings are designed. The certified design has a longer male end with barb placement between the o-rings. It also has two barbs on the male end and the compression washer is wider. I suspect these are the design changes which allow for the air pressure certification.

 
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raf0419

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My system has worked well since day one. I had one fitting come undone and that was because I didn't tighten it enough. No problems since.

I need to take and post some final images, but here are my takeaway comments.
1. Measure twice, cut once.
2. Cut flush at 90 degrees!
3. Don't overtighten. I did break one fitting, but I wonder if that was a manufacturer defect.
4. Take your time to roll out and straighten. I'm glad I got mine right because the pipe is orange and it will draw your eye.
 
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raf0419

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I want to say I was "all in" at around $800. I know it was cheaper than going with a Rapid Air system.

I just checked Northern Tool and the 300' system is $419. Given that, I'm pretty sure my $800 number is way off I''ll see what I can dig up to give a more accurate number.
 
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raf0419

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I utilized pipe and fittings designed for radiant floor heat. I did this at my own risk and do not advocate others take a similar approach. There are terrific compressed air certified Pex-Al-Pex systems on the market like Rapid Air. I just decided to see if I could save a few bucks. By the way I placed a call the good folks at Rapid Air to inquire about using different fittings. The friendly reply was that their system is certified and they will not recommend using other fittings.
 
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raf0419

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This was by no means the cheapest way to go, but it met my requirements of easy install and flexible expansion. Then I overbuilt it because once I moved projects, tools and equipment I figured I wouldn't want to do it again. LOL I selected 3/4" because of my 50x75 shop run which I laid out in a loop. In my old shop of 14 x 24 I would have definitely gone 1/2" crimp pex.

A quick email search yielded some costs:
1. 3/4" Pex-Al-Pex, plus brass Tee and elbow fittings from online retailer - $396
2. Puma Air compressor - $479
3. 3/4" surface mount blocks - $270 OUCH. I could have eliminated a few drops or possibly reduced to 1/2" for some savings. I also could have come up with fittings to give me the same functionality, but I really liked the look of the surface mount blocks. Major splurge!
4. 3/8" whip hose - $10
5. Assortments of couplers from HF an NT - $20
6. Hose reel with 50' hose - $79
7. 1/2" MIP to 1/4" FIP fittings to mount couplers to blocks - $30
8. Ingersoll Rand regulator - $80
9. Blood guts and can do attitude - FREE
So it looks like this ran about $1400 installed including compressor.

I'll post some "final" install images tomorrow when I get home.
 

volleyball

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I run a standard iron pipe around the compressor for cooling and economy of fittings. I have a rapidair system that I will be using to venture to an area far away that would rust the iron pipe and the lots of turns to make it expensive.
But I will connect the tubing to iron at the drop points as I want several outlets near each other. Plus the pipe will be exposed and the iron will stand up to being hit better.
 

ADSR

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270 for the blocks is a lot of money. They're a nice looking piece, but i'll go this way for 2 bucks each......

This is a pex shower head fitting.....

FH07FEB_PLUPEX_08.JPG
 

markietas

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Salisbury, NC
Also there is nothing risky about using it for air, every spec list I've looked at for pex-al-pex said it was rated for compressed gases.
 
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raf0419

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Doh! I needed that pic 1.5y ago. Lol. Yes the blocks were a splurge, but I don't regret it. Then again I don't seem to regret any tool or equipment purchases! [emoji106]


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raf0419

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Last one shows why I liked the pex-al-pex. Easy to curve and shape - No fittings here. Just shaped to fit!

9dddbc3bf1b3b6048b79a0e82fec3eb0.jpg



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raf0419

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Next project and what I hope will be another thread. Mezzanine in corner to carve out wood shop.

858d0ec6b2f0675e59341796ad8f98f4.jpg



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raf0419

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Yes. If you look carefully you will see a ball valve at the bottom of each of the mounting blocks. Oddly I haven't gotten any water out of the blocks yet. It all seems to accumulate at the regulator/filter or condense in the tank.
 
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