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My Project - Almost Finished

bhays

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Joined
May 15, 2006
Messages
293
Location
Southern Indiana
I have a few odds and ends to finish up, got to put casters on some work benches, etc., but my project is almost finished. I owe much gratitude to those who gave me inspiration, encouragement and tips along the way.

Some pics:

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KingPerformance

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Jan 11, 2007
Messages
321
Very nice, I like it a lot. I'm a big fan of those windows, are they individual square glass bricks? Personally I would like to incorporate them into my garage build some how, putting a nice rim around the top of the wall for some extra light (in-between studs). They are a nice theft deterrent because you couldn't fit through one row high yet it will bring some nice light into the area. I have seen them typically in older garages/homes. Anyway, nice space tell us some more about what you spend your time down there doing.

pic3.jpg
 

justinmc

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May 25, 2006
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2,239
Location
KCMO
Looks great! Man all these nice finished garage spaces popping up lately is making me itchy to build something!

Is that some sort of water purification system over next to your hot water heater?
 

burger

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Jun 6, 2005
Messages
980
Location
Erf
Those little square glass windows are very nice. Do you remember how much they cost?


Thanks,
Ed
 
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bhays

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May 15, 2006
Messages
293
Location
Southern Indiana
Those are just standard glass block windows. In fact, they are the exact blocks King Performance posted, the top left one D0 is what I have. I just checked online with Lowes and they are $4.26 per block.

I wish that was an I-Beam...it's 3 2x10's nailed together and the builder did not use trusses when building the roof over the garage, hence those two poles. I would do anything to get rid of those, total pain in the ****. Has anyone got any ideas? The roof over the garage is only about 2' above the garage ceiling. I would think with three 2x10's you could probably do without the poles, but I can't get anyone to give me an opinion on it that I can trust. I don't have any detailed plans for when the garage was built (part of a remodeling project about 6 years ago, did just have a carport)...sure would love to lose the darn poles, though.
 

ersatzs2

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Aug 9, 2006
Messages
630
Location
Mercer County, New Jersey
bhays said:
I wish that was an I-Beam...it's 3 2x10's nailed together and the builder did not use trusses when building the roof over the garage, hence those two poles. I would do anything to get rid of those, total pain in the ****. Has anyone got any ideas? <snip> would love to lose the darn poles, though.

Funny, it looked like steel in the photos, but on second look I can see I was just projecting... I'm still kicking myself at not spec'ing a steel ridge for the same reason.

I suspect you are out of luck on the posts without undergoing major surgery. 3 sister-ed 2x10s does not equal one microlam unfortunately, and even if it were engineered wood you probably would just go from 2 to 1 across a ~40' span. I'm not an engineer, but I spent time as a builder...
 

CCash

Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2007
Messages
5
Nicely done.

Check with your local building inspector, but you might be able to bolt steel flitch plates to both sides of those sistered 2x10s. The inspector could get you started on the thickness required. This would allow you to space the posts out.

Or,

Place your benches in that area, away from the walls. You would gain 1/2 of the bench depth in the bay.

CCash
 

Down Under Bloke

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Sep 17, 2006
Messages
378
Location
Top End NT Australia
Great space and well setup.:thumbup:

Couple of quick questions; what’s the deal on the network(?) patch panel and is that a retractable bug screen in the last picture, if so is it any good.
 

Notch1988

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Feb 20, 2006
Messages
527
Location
Fort Saskatchewan, AB, Canada
What size is it? How many recessed fixtures do you have in there? What bulbs are you using? How do you like the lighting? Adequate? Sorry about the questions but I've installed recessed pots as well and I'm just worried about the level of light I'm going to have.
 
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bhays

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May 15, 2006
Messages
293
Location
Southern Indiana
Yes, the garage door screen is cool. It was an easy installation and I am thoroughly pleased with it. I have it on the back door, so in the summer I can open the door and leave the screen down, doors facing the street are closed, but I can still have plenty of ventilation and fresh air. Plus, I installed a whole house attic fan in the ceiling, so I can kick that on and it ***** the air in through the screen..great for when you're doing stuff with chemicals/paint/smelly stuff. It's from Larson

I have 20 can lights (10 in each bay) with par30 halogen bulbs and lighting is good. Still need to use task lighting at the bench or where the cabinets block the ceiling light, of course.

The patch panel is all the cable/phone/network stuff in the house. Seemed like a really cutting edge thing to do at the time, now so much of that is wireless.

The air line is a system I bought from Griot's Garage. I really like it, but I believe they have discontinued it. I was told I bought them out of the line and most of the fittings. Since they are discontinuing carrying it, I don't mind disclosing their vendor. They gave me the packaging and shipping labels in case I needed a bit more to complete my job. Turns out, it is actually made by John Guest.

The Griot's Garage product consisted of John Guest Speedfit fittings:
http://www.johnguest.com/range_spec....RFIT&rs=1&id=1
and their rigid nylon pipe:
http://www.johnguest.com/part_spec.asp?s=PATUB

I am 99.9% certain the Garage-Pak system consists of the same fittings and their aluminum pipe:
http://www.johnguest.com/part_spec.asp?s=ALRM_A1
 
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Morrisman

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Nov 7, 2006
Messages
424
Location
Angeles City, Philippines
Cool looking work space.

Are those glass block windows just mortared or cemented in place, or did you use all the fixing systems they recommend? I was thinking of using a few dotted along the walls, in between my concrete blocks just to let a little natural daylight in. I'm pretty sure they can just be fastened in place like a normal brick (in small amounts) without the expansion joints, special mortar, fixing rods etc they mention on the website I found.
 
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bhays

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Joined
May 15, 2006
Messages
293
Location
Southern Indiana
Morrisman said:
Cool looking work space.

Are those glass block windows just mortared or cemented in place, or did you use all the fixing systems they recommend? I was thinking of using a few dotted along the walls, in between my concrete blocks just to let a little natural daylight in. I'm pretty sure they can just be fastened in place like a normal brick (in small amounts) without the expansion joints, special mortar, fixing rods etc they mention on the website I found.

They're just mortared in place, but I did use glass block mortar.
 

Jaytree

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Joined
Dec 13, 2006
Messages
97
Location
Lakeland, Fl
bhays said:
I have a few odds and ends to finish up, got to put casters on some work benches, etc., but my project is almost finished. I owe much gratitude to those who gave me inspiration, encouragement and tips along the way.
You put a coffee maker in their on one of those benches, and I'm moving in!
Great job!
 

THX_138

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Joined
Jan 16, 2007
Messages
36
Location
North Central Ma.
I know it's a money issue, but it's never too late to put a steel beam in place of those sistered up woods....

Definately changable...save you empties!
 
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bhays

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May 15, 2006
Messages
293
Location
Southern Indiana
THX_138 said:
I know it's a money issue, but it's never too late to put a steel beam in place of those sistered up woods....

Definately changable...save you empties!

How would you go about something like that? Put the steel beam in place first, then remove the wood? I wonder if that could be done without tearing the whole roof off? I would SERIOUSLY consider doing it.
 

rikbolen

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Joined
Dec 23, 2006
Messages
71
Location
knoxville,Tennessee
bhays said:
How would you go about something like that? Put the steel beam in place first, then remove the wood? I wonder if that could be done without tearing the whole roof off? I would SERIOUSLY consider doing it.
build a temporary wall on both sides of the beam for support, then you can remove the triple 2x10 0r 2x12....whatever it is.....and do whatever you need to do..
 

Darren M.

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Joined
Feb 3, 2005
Messages
249
Location
Aledo Tx
Can you elaborate on where you purchased the screen door? Larson's page has a lot to be desired. (Or, I'm just a tool. Either is QUITE possible.)
Also, how are those tiles holding up in your welding center?
Great looking space!
 
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bhays

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Joined
May 15, 2006
Messages
293
Location
Southern Indiana
Can you elaborate on where you purchased the screen door? Larson's page has a lot to be desired. (Or, I'm just a tool. Either is QUITE possible.)
Also, how are those tiles holding up in your welding center?
Great looking space!

I purchased mine from a local building supply store, but any Larsen dealer can order them and will have a display of the residential entry size sliding screen. Those slide from the side rather than the top, but otherwise it's the same deal. I know Menards in my area carries them.

I purchased four pieces of durock cement board and put them on top of the racedeck in the corner where I weld, works out great.
 

Darren M.

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Joined
Feb 3, 2005
Messages
249
Location
Aledo Tx
Thanks for the response. I was wondering how you kept from destroying the race deck w/ the welding by-products. Good call there!
Can you give an estimate on the cost of the Larson screen? I just visited my local reseller and they were completely clueless. I did see some lateral screen doors and that is EXACTLY what I'm looking for!
Thanks and, again, great space!
 
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