OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
yeah. that was the plan. I thought as a compromise towards safety that i wouldn't mind a foot switch. not sure of a cost effective way of achieving that with a 3 phase motor
My projects
- Thread starter Nursepeter1973
- Start date
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
We have this debate at work all the time in regard to foot switches and emergency stops on bench grinders and drills, you have to remember that even with a e stop or foot switch there is still a fair bit of momentum until the machine stops in its own time, unless you have a brake arrangement you have to question is it worth the expense.
Any way fitting a foot switch there is two ways you can do it.
1. get a foot switch that will switch the three phases.
or
2. fit a contactor and thermal overload with a stop/ start in an enclosure then break the control circuit with the foot switch, that allows you only to start the unit if you have your foot on the switch, effectively giving you a deadman arrangement.
Hope this helps..
Any way fitting a foot switch there is two ways you can do it.
1. get a foot switch that will switch the three phases.
or
2. fit a contactor and thermal overload with a stop/ start in an enclosure then break the control circuit with the foot switch, that allows you only to start the unit if you have your foot on the switch, effectively giving you a deadman arrangement.
Hope this helps..
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
hmm seems like foot switch might not be as good as i thought. On another note, I have an electrician coming to mount a 3 phase point (drill), two 15amp singles (mig) in the garage and a 32amp line for my spa in tuesday.
Means the old girl will be ready to fire up sooner than expected.
Great timing too... It means I can start on the wall mounted brackets for my desk.
Two questions
1) how do you figure the rpm of the gearing for a drill?
2) is there a way to adjust the speed of the motor electronically?
Means the old girl will be ready to fire up sooner than expected.
Great timing too... It means I can start on the wall mounted brackets for my desk.
Two questions
1) how do you figure the rpm of the gearing for a drill?
2) is there a way to adjust the speed of the motor electronically?
Last edited:
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Great news.
1. The spindle RPM is determined by the pulley diameter and the motor RPM
I will see if I can dig up the formula some where.
2. A Variable Speed Drive is the way to go, ask your sparky what it would cost to hook up.
Cheers..
1. The spindle RPM is determined by the pulley diameter and the motor RPM
I will see if I can dig up the formula some where.
2. A Variable Speed Drive is the way to go, ask your sparky what it would cost to hook up.
Cheers..
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
Thanks for that 1/2. Can you recommend a brand?
Also another silly question. .. Would it be possible to have the vsd setup as an inline way so you could plug/unplug it? Just thinking for the future where I could use one vsd on multiple machines like a lathe etc.... or they don't work that way?
Also another silly question. .. Would it be possible to have the vsd setup as an inline way so you could plug/unplug it? Just thinking for the future where I could use one vsd on multiple machines like a lathe etc.... or they don't work that way?
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
There are heaps of V.S.D.s on the market. Stick with a name brand.
http://www.teco.com.au/variable-speed-drives-vsd
Yep, you can do exactly that, its a top idea. Just make sure the rated KW / Amps have a range that will suit both machines.
Regards
http://www.teco.com.au/variable-speed-drives-vsd
Yep, you can do exactly that, its a top idea. Just make sure the rated KW / Amps have a range that will suit both machines.
Regards
Last edited:
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
Ok... now i need to guesstimate what motor a wood/ metal lathe / milling machine / etc I might buy
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
I am guessing you drill is about 1.5 hp and a lathe may be 2 hp??
racingtadpole
Well-known member
Unless you're buying really big industrial machines, its unlikely you'll be looking at motors that are too much bigger than 1.5Kw.
I have single phase supply only but use VFD's to run 3 phase machinery from it. I decided against using one device to run multiple machines figuring set up would be a PITA. I did try the experiment and found I had to program the start ramping differently between the grinder and the drill press.
I have single phase supply only but use VFD's to run 3 phase machinery from it. I decided against using one device to run multiple machines figuring set up would be a PITA. I did try the experiment and found I had to program the start ramping differently between the grinder and the drill press.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
I never gave that a thought, thanks racingtadpole you would need to change settings as you swap between machines.
Some thing to consider.
Regards
Some thing to consider.
Regards
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
How difficult is it to reprogram/ change settings?
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Changing settings is just a matter of scrolling through a menu and entering the settings you need for that device, some units have a quick start menu and that could be a dozen entries.
As racing tad pole said more a P.I.T.A. than anything else.
Regards
As racing tad pole said more a P.I.T.A. than anything else.
Regards
racingtadpole
Well-known member
Its not difficult, but it can be time consuming if you have to do it manually. On my units for example the only way you can program them is via the display and controls on the front of the unit and to get to the section specific to the start ramping you have to scroll through about half of the settings.
If you get one with a PC port you can save your configurations for each motor and up load it before you use it. Still a pain but faster than using the front panel HMI.
A few other things that may help..
If your VFD has facility to add a potentiometer to adjust the frequency, do it, it is easier to turn a knob to adjust the frequency on the fly than to use the front panel HMI
Be very careful about over and underspeeding motors, keep your settings sensible, just because a VFD can overspeed to 400Hz doesnt necessarily mean your motor will like doing it. Same goes for underspeeding. Too much speed the motor may fly to bits, too little the motor may stall and get hot and burn. I have mine limited by the program for use between 30HZ and 150Hz, doesnt sound like much adjustment (the VFD will go from .1Hz to 400Hz) but when you see it in action on the drill press its HEAPS...
Edit: HMI=Human Machine Interface
If you get one with a PC port you can save your configurations for each motor and up load it before you use it. Still a pain but faster than using the front panel HMI.
A few other things that may help..
If your VFD has facility to add a potentiometer to adjust the frequency, do it, it is easier to turn a knob to adjust the frequency on the fly than to use the front panel HMI
Be very careful about over and underspeeding motors, keep your settings sensible, just because a VFD can overspeed to 400Hz doesnt necessarily mean your motor will like doing it. Same goes for underspeeding. Too much speed the motor may fly to bits, too little the motor may stall and get hot and burn. I have mine limited by the program for use between 30HZ and 150Hz, doesnt sound like much adjustment (the VFD will go from .1Hz to 400Hz) but when you see it in action on the drill press its HEAPS...
Edit: HMI=Human Machine Interface
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
excellent info tadpole! I always tend towards being conservative anyways.
Being a pita isn't a deal breaker as there is nothing in the near future that will need a VSD/ VFD... now i need to figure how to figure out what setting it needs to be. .. or us it just trial and error?
Being a pita isn't a deal breaker as there is nothing in the near future that will need a VSD/ VFD... now i need to figure how to figure out what setting it needs to be. .. or us it just trial and error?
Last edited:
racingtadpole
Well-known member
Looks a bit like your auto correct got the better of you, not really sure what you're asking.
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
Just stopped and managed to reread the it... I was asking.. how do you know what settings to input into the VSD/VFD... or is it just trial an error
racingtadpole
Well-known member
Bit of science, bit of trial and error.
This may help:
http://www.vfds.in/vfd-parameters-setting-381662.html
This may help:
http://www.vfds.in/vfd-parameters-setting-381662.html
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
Small step forward... 3phase and 15amp points fitted into the garage yesterday... just in time for me to go back to work... big day for the sparky...
Last edited:
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
I decided (against my better judgement) to take a look at the online classifieds for a lathe (wood or metal) as I'm interested in both.
I'm interested in old iron as a preference (rightly or wrongly I believe that the tolerances for the old vs new stuff would be the same even if the old stuff had a hard life - at least in the price range I'm looking at)
I came across this old girl
View media item 48412
A Myford ML7 for $1500.. haven't seen her in the flesh yet (that happening this Thursday) and I am truely hoping that she's had an easy life. My guess from the photo that she's come from a tafe/highschool.
I'm hoping that the chip tray comes off of the stand as I'm planning on mounting it on the bench.
All I need now is a small mill and I'll be able to do almost anything..
I'm interested in old iron as a preference (rightly or wrongly I believe that the tolerances for the old vs new stuff would be the same even if the old stuff had a hard life - at least in the price range I'm looking at)
I came across this old girl
View media item 48412
A Myford ML7 for $1500.. haven't seen her in the flesh yet (that happening this Thursday) and I am truely hoping that she's had an easy life. My guess from the photo that she's come from a tafe/highschool.
I'm hoping that the chip tray comes off of the stand as I'm planning on mounting it on the bench.
All I need now is a small mill and I'll be able to do almost anything..
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Looks the goods..
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
I ended up not going for the lathe... I just dont have enough knowledge to know whether or not it was clapped out.
During my break I have started to try and bring some organisation to the garage and seperate/create some workshop space...
So with a three car garage and two cars I've staked out the third part as mine.
I put it to the wife that I will be safer for the cars when I am welding etc
View media item 48910
The other advantage is that as the double door opens everyone could see all the tools/ equipment... I wont show a close up of the studs.. some are a bit wonky... definately wouldnt build a house like this.. but saying that a significant proportion of the wood is recycled
(I let dad contribute... he's cutting one shorter noggin for the end)
This weeks job is getting some plasterboard and covering one side
During my break I have started to try and bring some organisation to the garage and seperate/create some workshop space...
So with a three car garage and two cars I've staked out the third part as mine.
I put it to the wife that I will be safer for the cars when I am welding etc
View media item 48910
The other advantage is that as the double door opens everyone could see all the tools/ equipment... I wont show a close up of the studs.. some are a bit wonky... definately wouldnt build a house like this.. but saying that a significant proportion of the wood is recycled
(I let dad contribute... he's cutting one shorter noggin for the end)
This weeks job is getting some plasterboard and covering one side
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
There is nothing wrong recycling timber for a non load bearing wall, it should come up great.
Top idea creating your own space for a work area.
Regards
Top idea creating your own space for a work area.
Regards
Firebird 1
Well-known member
Sounds like someone should open a hardware store up in your area!! I cant imagine have to drive that far to get something.
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
Thankfully I've recently moved back to perth and returned to fifo work. The hardware store now is only 6km away!
The plan is to skin the car side to allow me plenty of access to the beans to hang stuff from
The plan is to skin the car side to allow me plenty of access to the beans to hang stuff from
racingtadpole
Well-known member
At $1500 that Myford was a bit on the pricey side unless it had a truckload of tooling and accessories.
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
From all accounts it didn't have too much coming with it, some tooling etc. I decided to get something new probably... eventually...
The more I think about it the more I think I've done the right thing... I like to preserve old tooling but yes I had thought it was on the $$$ side... $1000 I might have reconsidered
The more I think about it the more I think I've done the right thing... I like to preserve old tooling but yes I had thought it was on the $$$ side... $1000 I might have reconsidered
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
So finished the wall off now.. well I covered it with plasterboard... still need to fill the screwheads and paint it..
View media item 49339
It might not be the best job but it does what it is intended to cheaply and effectively - blocking the view of my tools from the street when the garage door is open
View media item 49339
It might not be the best job but it does what it is intended to cheaply and effectively - blocking the view of my tools from the street when the garage door is open
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Neat, clean and practical.
Well done.
Well done.
racingtadpole
Well-known member
J.D. Big J.S.
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
Ok it's been a while since my last post... work & money have gotten in the way..
Ok as recap - I'm planning on a wall hung desk that covers two walls.
The bracket was decided to end up like this
View media item 47039
So the cutting began - 65x35x3mm RHS (Painted & Australian Made)
View media item 50083
Individual arms cut - 600mm each
View media item 50084
Marked out the squares for the cable tray to pass through (45x45mm square tray
View media item 50085
First pilot holes drilled. You might note I dotted the pieces... the idea was to try and maintain which edges mated well.. they did except that my mitre saw angle was out...
View media item 50087
I love my new (to me - its probably 30-40 years old) drill (and even better its truely Australian made)
View media item 50086
I borrowed an idea that I saw one here... I made a large square from two pieces of 65mm angle (5mm thick) to clamp pieces down to reduce heat warping
View media item 50088
Gusset welded inplace
View media item 50089
All done
View media item 50090
Wall brackets welded...
View media item 50091
I have also added a piece of 100x50x2mm flat on the bottom of the cable tray hole to secure the tray in place.
Now to fill in the mitred ends, clean up and then paint!
Ok as recap - I'm planning on a wall hung desk that covers two walls.
The bracket was decided to end up like this
View media item 47039
So the cutting began - 65x35x3mm RHS (Painted & Australian Made)
View media item 50083
Individual arms cut - 600mm each
View media item 50084
Marked out the squares for the cable tray to pass through (45x45mm square tray
View media item 50085
First pilot holes drilled. You might note I dotted the pieces... the idea was to try and maintain which edges mated well.. they did except that my mitre saw angle was out...
View media item 50087
I love my new (to me - its probably 30-40 years old) drill (and even better its truely Australian made)
View media item 50086
I borrowed an idea that I saw one here... I made a large square from two pieces of 65mm angle (5mm thick) to clamp pieces down to reduce heat warping
View media item 50088
Gusset welded inplace
View media item 50089
All done
View media item 50090
Wall brackets welded...
View media item 50091
I have also added a piece of 100x50x2mm flat on the bottom of the cable tray hole to secure the tray in place.
Now to fill in the mitred ends, clean up and then paint!
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Great work, nice to see the Waldon is coming in handy.
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
1/2cup - Any drill press would suffice but the fact its so solid gives me confidence A lot quicker to drill all the holes too compared to a hand drill
A lot quicker to drill all the holes too compared to a hand drillScottsRX
Well-known member
I just found your thread, great work. I've been considering building my own racking for my BT-50 ute as some of the ones available are just ridiculously expensive for what you get.
I also had a bit of a giggle at your trailer plugs. WA had to be different. In SA and Eastern states it's mainly the 5 and 7 pin large round plugs and you can wire the 7 pin to suit both 5 and 7 so no need for numerous plugs. I've bought two cars from WA and the first thing I did was turf those horrible little plugs.
Nice work on the brackets, you'll never bend them.
I also had a bit of a giggle at your trailer plugs. WA had to be different. In SA and Eastern states it's mainly the 5 and 7 pin large round plugs and you can wire the 7 pin to suit both 5 and 7 so no need for numerous plugs. I've bought two cars from WA and the first thing I did was turf those horrible little plugs.
Nice work on the brackets, you'll never bend them.
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
ScottsRX - Yeah the racking is ridiculous in price... I think mine cost around $100 in materials.. (honestly cant remember). Thought on top of it, making it myself was a case of necessity too as at the time I needed to hang a HF antenna from it (and have it survive a trip with 2000km of corrugations to Uluru).
The plugs are a PITA.. hence my solution.. saves so much drama
The plugs are a PITA.. hence my solution.. saves so much drama
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
And so the project continues.. slowly... the joy of working around a wife doing postgraduate studies
So I've gone with a bamboo floorboard for the desktop as it is solid, dense and a good price. I doubt I'd put it down on a floor but for the desk it will be fine... and not a bad price either.
View media item 50798
View media item 50799
Site supervisor doing what she does best...
View media item 50800
Nearly there
View media item 50801
The panorama shot
View media item 50802
View media item 50803
I've got the top covered fully now... with approx 50mm of floorboard left over... lucky hey
So I've gone with a bamboo floorboard for the desktop as it is solid, dense and a good price. I doubt I'd put it down on a floor but for the desk it will be fine... and not a bad price either.
View media item 50798
View media item 50799
Site supervisor doing what she does best...
View media item 50800
Nearly there
View media item 50801
The panorama shot
View media item 50802
View media item 50803
I've got the top covered fully now... with approx 50mm of floorboard left over... lucky hey
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Done well, the bench top looks fantastic.
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
The floorboards are prefinished but I'll be sanding that off as they also have a small chamfer on each board. I didnt quite have enough for the facia but I have some blackbutt from our house floor.
Next up once the desk is sorted will be the wall cabinets
Next up once the desk is sorted will be the wall cabinets
OP
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
It's been a while since I've posted but thats not to say I havent been busy doing little projects... (though its been hard with a wife doing post graduate studies)
One of them was this.. A store bought weeder/turf cutter.. an excellent tool except for its design flaw which caused it to bend in half...
View media item 54594
So my overengineering OCD came out to play and this was born... welded two pieces of 25mm x 3mm flat bar together at about 120degrees
View media item 54595
A couple of side by sides. You can see the weak point roughly where the bottle opener/pruner is... the folds for the handle as it transforms to the curve for the main blade was the flex point.
View media item 54596View media item 54597
Next up was modifying a new purchase.. a Masport Edger..
View media item 54601
I removed the bailing handle and replaced it with a switch as having to concentrate on not letting go of the bailing handle was more unsafe than just having a switch (I think)... so a $6 marine switch was utilised
View media item 54598View media item 54599
One of them was this.. A store bought weeder/turf cutter.. an excellent tool except for its design flaw which caused it to bend in half...
View media item 54594
So my overengineering OCD came out to play and this was born... welded two pieces of 25mm x 3mm flat bar together at about 120degrees
View media item 54595
A couple of side by sides. You can see the weak point roughly where the bottle opener/pruner is... the folds for the handle as it transforms to the curve for the main blade was the flex point.
View media item 54596View media item 54597
Next up was modifying a new purchase.. a Masport Edger..
View media item 54601
I removed the bailing handle and replaced it with a switch as having to concentrate on not letting go of the bailing handle was more unsafe than just having a switch (I think)... so a $6 marine switch was utilised
View media item 54598View media item 54599