My Rust Bullet Experience

[JonnyC]

Yes, another Rust Bullet thread

I have a two-car garage with one stall being extra deep which is where my workbench and tools are. Since I can't move all of my stuff out of my garage and keep it out there for multiple days, I decided I'll do it in sections. I decided to do this smaller back section first (170 sq/ft) to work on my technique and test the product.

Here I'm getting ready to grind with a 7" angle grinder with shroud, Diamabrush, and 14 gal Ridgid shop vac with drywall bags.

Part way done, having to stop to clean the filter multiple times. Turns out the cheaper bags from Amazon are in fact cheaper as both of them ended up blowing out before anywhere near full, meaning the filter got clogged.

Finished grinding and patched the floor with Rustoleum Epoxy Floor Patch

No pictures of it after I ground the patches, but the Diamabrush made quick work of it.

First coat down, it really soaked in

Second coat

Third and final coat after a few hours of curing

Overall I'm pretty happy so far. The roller marks ****, but one of the main reasons I went with Rust Bullet and applied it myself is that my garage already has a ton of flaws, so I don't need a show-quality floor. I want a durable floor that can be touched up if needed and doesn't break the bank.

I finished applying this just last night (about 12 hours ago), and I can already walk on it. Despite 50% humidity at 60 degrees, the time it took for each coat to be tack free was only about 3 hours (I applied 3 coats in roughly 10 hours). I'll let it set up over a few days before moving stuff back onto it.

What I'm going to do with the rest of my garage floor is another story. It would be a lot to grind by hand, and there is a considerable amount of spalling which needs some type of skim coat (using the epoxy patch would take forever). More on that on post #8

Lessons Learned

1. Roller Marks

As you can probably see in the pictures, there are some pretty bad roller marks. I might have used a wrong roller cover, as I used a 3/8" nap Purdy Professional cover. I may not have mixed the product well enough, despite mixing the 1 gallon for 3 minutes, and mixing in between coats. No matter how long you mix you can't get it to be homogeneous due the the aluminum content.

However, I think the biggest thing is the technique. I'm good at back rolling, and maybe this is due to the roller cover, but no matter what, rolling forward created a different texture than rolling backward, and a slight difference in texture is very obvious with this stuff. I realized on the final section of the 3rd coat that if I held the roller extension almost parallel with the floor it provides the most uniformity as there's no downward pressure when pushing forward. It didn't help that my last roller cover seemed out of round too (I used a new cover for each coat).

Also, this may have to do with the product starting to set up between coats. When I poured out the product initially (around noon), it was like water. But each time I poured more it was gradually getting thicker.

2. Coverage

I used 1 gallon for 3 coats on this 170 sq/ft section. I made sure not to apply it too thick, but then noticed that it had not seeped into any little holes in the concrete that I didn't patch. On the 3rd coat I went back and filled the holes using a little brush before rolling on the 3rd coat, but now you can see those spots I touched up. Oh well, better to have a coating there so that nothing can seep into the concrete.

3. Solvent Fumes

The fumes are brutal. I wore a respirator when applying, but unfortunately had no ventilation in the garage because any bit of draft would have caused stuff to blow onto the paint. The smell was so strong that it seeped into my house, and I woke up this morning and it was really strong. It was below 50 degrees this morning, but I had to open up the windows.

4. Cleanup

Buy the solvent when you order from Garage Flooring LLC. I didn't, and I didn't wear gloves during the first coat. You can remove this stuff from your hands just fine with Xylene before it dries, but once it does it's on there and it remains sticky for some time.

 

[Supergumby5000]

Yes, another Rust Bullet thread

I want a durable floor that can be touched up if needed and doesn't break the bank.

Lessons Learned

1. Roller Marks

I think the biggest thing is the technique. I'm good at back rolling, and maybe this is due to the roller cover, but no matter what, rolling forward created a different texture than rolling backward, and a slight difference in texture is very obvious with this stuff. I realized on the final section of the 3rd coat that if I held the roller extension almost parallel with the floor it provides the most uniformity as there's no downward pressure when pushing forward. It didn't help that my last roller cover seemed out of round too (I used a new cover for each coat).

Also, this may have to do with the product starting to set up between coats. When I poured out the product initially (around noon), it was like water. But each time I poured more it was gradually getting thicker.

3. Solvent Fumes

The fumes are brutal. I wore a respirator when applying, but unfortunately had no ventilation in the garage because any bit of draft would have caused stuff to blow onto the paint. The smell was so strong that it seeped into my house, and I woke up this morning and it was really strong. It was below 50 degrees this morning, but I had to open up the windows.

Looks good! Great info too. I'm looking to tackle this in the near future and this is great input.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Yes, another Rust Bullet thread

I have a two-car garage with one stall being extra deep which is where my workbench and tools are. Since I can't move all of my stuff out of my garage and keep it out there for multiple days, I decided I'll do it in sections. I decided to do this smaller back section first (170 sq/ft) to work on my technique and test the product.

Here I'm getting ready to grind with a 7" angle grinder with shroud, Diamabrush, and 14 gal Ridgid shop vac with drywall bags.

Part way done, having to stop to clean the filter multiple times. Turns out the cheaper bags from Amazon are in fact cheaper as both of them ended up blowing out before anywhere near full, meaning the filter got clogged.

Finished grinding and patched the floor with Rustoleum Epoxy Floor Patch

No pictures of it after I ground the patches, but the Diamabrush made quick work of it.

First coat down, it really soaked in

Second coat

Third and final coat after a few hours of curing

Overall I'm pretty happy so far. The roller marks ****, but one of the main reasons I went with Rust Bullet and applied it myself is that my garage already has a ton of flaws, so I don't need a show-quality floor. I want a durable floor that can be touched up if needed and doesn't break the bank.

I finished applying this just last night (about 12 hours ago), and I can already walk on it. Despite 50% humidity at 60 degrees, the time it took for each coat to be tack free was only about 3 hours (I applied 3 coats in roughly 10 hours). I'll let it set up over a few days before moving stuff back onto it.

What I'm going to do with the rest of my garage floor is another story. It would be a lot to grind by hand, and there is a considerable amount of spalling which needs some type of skim coat (using the epoxy patch would take forever).

Lessons Learned

1. Roller Marks

As you can probably see in the pictures, there are some pretty bad roller marks. I might have used a wrong roller cover, as I used a 3/8" nap Purdy Professional cover. I may not have mixed the product well enough, despite mixing the 1 gallon for 3 minutes, and mixing in between coats. No matter how long you mix you can't get it to be homogeneous due the the aluminum content.

However, I think the biggest thing is the technique. I'm good at back rolling, and maybe this is due to the roller cover, but no matter what, rolling forward created a different texture than rolling backward, and a slight difference in texture is very obvious with this stuff. I realized on the final section of the 3rd coat that if I held the roller extension almost parallel with the floor it provides the most uniformity as there's no downward pressure when pushing forward. It didn't help that my last roller cover seemed out of round too (I used a new cover for each coat).

Also, this may have to do with the product starting to set up between coats. When I poured out the product initially (around noon), it was like water. But each time I poured more it was gradually getting thicker.

2. Coverage

I used 1 gallon for 3 coats on this 170 sq/ft section. I made sure not to apply it too thick, but then noticed that it had not seeped into any little holes in the concrete that I didn't patch. On the 3rd coat I went back and filled the holes using a little brush before rolling on the 3rd coat, but now you can see those spots I touched up. Oh well, better to have a coating there so that nothing can seep into the concrete.

3. Solvent Fumes

The fumes are brutal. I wore a respirator when applying, but unfortunately had no ventilation in the garage because any bit of draft would have caused stuff to blow onto the paint. The smell was so strong that it seeped into my house, and I woke up this morning and it was really strong. It was below 50 degrees this morning, but I had to open up the windows.

4. Cleanup

Buy the solvent when you order from Garage Flooring LLC. I didn't, and I didn't wear gloves during the first coat. You can remove this stuff from your hands just fine with Xylene before it dries, but once it does it's on there and it remains sticky for some time.

First and foremost, you did a nice job and overall it looks pretty good. As you indicated their are some roller marks. I'd like to address what went right and what went wrong here in hopes of helping the next guy out. If you need a couple quarts (and roller covers) , let me know. You will need to sand lightly first.

FIRST: You had the right idea. When you grind, you have to do an extra coat. Well played there. Where I think you ran into an issue is as follows:

Rust Bullet coverage is at best 400 Sq. Ft. per gallon. That is as thin as you can spread the stuff and for most applications it is the number we use. We would never use a higher number. Its also based on average concrete.

(170/400) x 3 = 1.275 gallons. I would have suggested 1 gallon and two quarts for that size of a section. You may have had a little left, but when you grind, it takes a little more material too.

We find that roller covers and technique do make a HUGE difference. More and more people are adding some flake and some clear and then even if its not perfect, you don't see it. The best rollers I have seen are from Midwest rake. Thats what we send when someone orders them from us and they have even worked better than the Wooster rollers we were suggesting at first.

Cleanup

Rust Bullet solvent is a Xylene blend as opposed to straight Xylene. Xylene, as indicated will work. Once this stuff is dry. GOOD LUCK. You need to clean it up when wet or you will have no luck with any solvent.

Fumes

They completely ****. A respirator and good ventilation is required. No argument from me on this at all. Typically the next morning we would find it should have dissipated pretty a lot -- but still strong --. 24 hours later its tolerable. 3 days later its all but gone. I suppose some of the smell kind of sticks to drywall or insulation but really the solvent smell itself is gone in a couple of days.

When we filmed the video we played with several roller styles until we found one that we highlighted because it worked best

 

[JonnyC]

Thanks Justin!

I actually ordered 2 gallons in case I needed more, with the plan to coat the other sections of the floor within a few weeks so that the rest of that 2nd gallon could be used along with more gallons purchased from you. But now with the realization of how bad the spalling is and looking to contract out the grinding, I assumed I might not even get to the other sections until next year. So I didn't want to open the 2nd gallon knowing that most of it would go to waste.

Honestly I rushed this project. I tend to overthink things (I have been looking to coat my floor for years!), but a few weeks ago I said screw it, I'm ordering the product (while trying to save some money) and will just do it, otherwise I will overthink it and it will never get done. I should have consulted you for more info on the rollers.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Thanks Justin!

I actually ordered 2 gallons in case I needed more, with the plan to coat the other sections of the floor within a few weeks so that the rest of that 2nd gallon could be used along with more gallons purchased from you. But now with the realization of how bad the spalling is and looking to contract out the grinding, I assumed I might not even get to the other sections until next year. So I didn't want to open the 2nd gallon knowing that most of it would go to waste.

Honestly I rushed this project. I tend to overthink things (I have been looking to coat my floor for years!), but a few weeks ago I said screw it, I'm ordering the product (while trying to save some money) and will just do it, otherwise I will overthink it and it will never get done. I should have consulted you for more info on the rollers.

Get a pole sander and lightly sand the area you did and put a little more on there. I will help you out with the material for that and send you some roller covers for the entire project. Just PM me the order number

 

[Onesip]

Looks good! From all accounts Rust Bullet is a really good surface too. I think the third coat really makes a difference.

 

[JonnyC]

Looks good! From all accounts Rust Bullet is a really good surface too. I think the third coat really makes a difference.

Thanks! It has cured for a little over 24 hours now, and I'm really impressed with the coating. Seems tough as nails, but I'll test the scratch resistance once it has fully cured. The surface is so smooth, which will make sweeping a breeze, yet my shoes have plenty of grip.

 

[JonnyC]

Okay, so I need some help deciding on how to go about repairing the rest of the concrete before coating. I'm willing to use the angle grinder on the whole thing instead of contracting it out as it would be $400 to have someone grind it or $625 to shot blast. I could also rent the Edco grinder (I did not know about this, I have only rented the floor buffer with Diamabrush before). If I do use the angle grinder I'm going to mount a Dust Deputy to the shop vac, which is currently in use on my blasting cabinet setup.

Here's what I need to coat still, 500 sq ft...

Here's some spalling...

Here it is up close on the troweled control joint...

And here's pitting and spalling...

So, what should I do and what product(s) should I use? The Rustoleum epoxy floor patch works well, but there's a lot to cover. Because of the pitting it seems I would want a product I can pour onto the floor and spread in and it will self-level.

Should I fill the control joint or try to patch the edges? If I try to patch it, I'll need something more concrete-like in order to not lose shape.

I have a local epoxy guy stopping out here this week to give me a quote on doing the patching/repair, so we'll see how much that would come out to and what his plan of attack would be.

Thanks guys for your input!

 

[Shea]

Justin has an epoxy and sand concrete patch that you can trowel on over the spalling. You can trowel and form nice edges for the areas around the control joint with it as well. Give it 24 hours to cure and then you can grind it to blend in with the rest of the floor. It will cure harder than the concrete.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Okay, so I need some help deciding on how to go about repairing the rest of the concrete before coating. I'm willing to use the angle grinder on the whole thing instead of contracting it out as it would be $400 to have someone grind it or $625 to shot blast. I could also rent the Edco grinder (I did not know about this, I have only rented the floor buffer with Diamabrush before). If I do use the angle grinder I'm going to mount a Dust Deputy to the shop vac, which is currently in use on my blasting cabinet setup.

Here's what I need to coat still, 500 sq ft...

Here's some spalling...

Here it is up close on the troweled control joint...

And here's pitting and spalling...

So, what should I do and what product(s) should I use? The Rustoleum epoxy floor patch works well, but there's a lot to cover. Because of the pitting it seems I would want a product I can pour onto the floor and spread in and it will self-level.

Should I fill the control joint or try to patch the edges? If I try to patch it, I'll need something more concrete-like in order to not lose shape.

I have a local epoxy guy stopping out here this week to give me a quote on doing the patching/repair, so we'll see how much that would come out to and what his plan of attack would be.

Thanks guys for your input!

Justin has an epoxy and sand concrete patch that you can trowel on over the spalling. You can trowel and form nice edges for the areas around the control joint with it as well. Give it 24 hours to cure and then you can grind it to blend in with the rest of the floor. It will cure harder than the concrete.

Shea is correct. There are also products we may have luck getting locally. You will have to grind that section as well

 

[daveskrab]

Happy to see another RB floor, and that I am not alone in the roller mark department. I will start my own thread soon, but we wrapped up the 4th and final coat last night.
Overall I am ok with it, so long as the coating holds up to the abuse I may or may not put it through.



Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[JonnyC]

Alright, minor update. I haven't done anything since my last post, but I did have a local epoxy guy stop out and give me a quote on grinding the rest of the 500 sq/ft and patching the floor while maintaining the troweled joints. On the one side of the floor that has the spalling he suggested using 1 gallon of epoxy (2-part) which will fill in the spalling and pitting. Is this a good idea? I'm worried one side of the floor will look quite a bit different once the RB is down. He quoted me $650 to do all of that.

I have to keep remembering that this is just a garage. The floor will get scratched. It does not need to be perfect.

 

[OzJustin]

Thanks for sharing your tips. Some really good things to think about for my future floor project.

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

But it is your garage. And your garage floor is looking good. What did you end up doing with this?

Alright, minor update. I haven't done anything since my last post, but I did have a local epoxy guy stop out and give me a quote on grinding the rest of the 500 sq/ft and patching the floor while maintaining the troweled joints. On the one side of the floor that has the spalling he suggested using 1 gallon of epoxy (2-part) which will fill in the spalling and pitting. Is this a good idea? I'm worried one side of the floor will look quite a bit different once the RB is down. He quoted me $650 to do all of that.

I have to keep remembering that this is just a garage. The floor will get scratched. It does not need to be perfect.

 

[JonnyC]

I'll get some pictures, but I ended up patching the broken edges on the trowel joints with a polymer/portland cement patch product. Didn't turn out the greatest because I couldn't find a groover trowel that matched the existing groove.

I bought a pourable cement patch product from Menards that I'm going to trowel over the spalling, so we'll see how that works. Built a stand on my Ridgid shop vac for the Dust Deputy and I just started grinding the rest of the floor.

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

I'll get some pictures, but I ended up patching the broken edges on the trowel joints with a polymer/portland cement patch product. Didn't turn out the greatest because I couldn't find a groover trowel that matched the existing groove.

I bought a pourable cement patch product from Menards that I'm going to trowel over the spalling, so we'll see how that works. Built a stand on my Ridgid shop vac for the Dust Deputy and I just started grinding the rest of the floor.

Looking forward to seeing how your project turns out. Looking good so far.

 

[JonnyC]

Alright, so I applied the cement patch (didn't go the greatest), filled cracks and other holes with epoxy patch last night, and am about to grind the epoxy patch level. It's 33 degrees here, getting down to the 20s tonight, and it's going to snow 1-3 inches tomorrow afternoon. I have the garage heated at 60 with air circulating, but the slab temp is down to 40 in some spots. I will bump the heat up even more before I start painting, but I have to shut the heater off so the place doesn't go boom. The smell is going to be brutal because I can't open up doors. Ugh.

Needless to say this not a good situation. But there's really no turning back since it's only going to get colder, and if I wait until spring I'll want to regrind as I'll have my car parked in there with snow, salt, etc that will just soak into the already ground concrete.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Alright, so I applied the cement patch (didn't go the greatest), filled cracks and other holes with epoxy patch last night, and am about to grind the epoxy patch level. It's 33 degrees here, getting down to the 20s tonight, and it's going to snow 1-3 inches tomorrow afternoon. I have the garage heated at 60 with air circulating, but the slab temp is down to 40 in some spots. I will bump the heat up even more before I start painting, but I have to shut the heater off so the place doesn't go boom. The smell is going to be brutal because I can't open up doors. Ugh.

Needless to say this not a good situation. But there's really no turning back since it's only going to get colder, and if I wait until spring I'll want to regrind as I'll have my car parked in there with snow, salt, etc that will just soak into the already ground concrete.

What kind of heat? No open flames and definitely no propane

 

[JonnyC]

Alright, it's all done. I'm glad to finally get this project out of the way! Despite having the experience of coating the other part of the floor, I still managed to **** at applying this. Coverage is supposed to be 300-400 sq ft a gallon, but I was able to use only one gallon per coat for 3 coats over 500 sq ft. I certainly should have applied it thicker, but there were only a few times where I had to apply some pressure on the roller to get the coverage. No matter what I did, even when applying really thick at the end in the last section, the roller marks were bad. Oh well, this floor is going to get dirty and scratched up anyways.

I added a mount for the Dust Deputy to my Ridgid WD1450. This is a must! I filled up to 3 or 4 gallons of concrete dust in the bucket with very little making it to the vac.

Epoxyshield Concrete Patch set up really fast so I was cutting it close getting everything patched, and then it took almost 30 hours to harden, which was frustrating. 20 hours after putting it down I tried grinding a spot, and it tore it right out as it was still tacky.

3rd coat all done with roller marks and all

 

[JonnyC]

What kind of heat? No open flames and definitely no propane

Ceiling mounted gas heater. I turned the heater off before starting painting, then waited a while for the fumes to vent through two cracked doors before I turned the heat back on.

 

[Shea]

Looks great!

 

[kngelv]

I don't understand the love for Rust Bullet. Nearly every one pictured on here has a ton of roller marks.

James

 

[JonnyC]

I can't speak for everyone else, but what drew me to it was the ease of application, don't need to grind (although I did), can apply in cold temps, can recoat if needed, and it being more durable than a paint and less expensive than epoxy.

Had I to do this over again I may have gone the epoxy route given the amount of work I put into prep.

 

[alberto]

I don't understand the love for Rust Bullet. Nearly every one pictured on here has a ton of roller marks.

James

If one puts a color coat over the base gray, the roller marks disappear. My floor looks very good, with no roller marks. I put two coats base gray, two coats blue. If you only do two coats of gray, then yeah, roller marks seem to be an issue.

The main reason I used it was ease of application (no grinding) and perceived durability/longevity. So far the durability has been as advertised. I've had it for 6 months or more and have parked many cars straight in from a hard drive, with no hot tire pick up, left dripped oil and ****** fluid for weeks and it just wipes up. So far so good.

 

[bselfsc]

Great job!! I will be following same route... having to paint 1/2 at a time.to complete... which is really another plus for going with Rust Bullet...

Ease of prep...basic... economical...durable.... I can deal with roller marks if the product gives me budget good looks and durability .....

There are many products out there (at the big box stores) the will look prettier but will not have longevity...

As I have followed forum if you don't want to acid etch/grind and are trying to be budget friendly .... Rust Bullet is the product.... could be wrong and will find out when I paint mine... but shucks been wrong once before...

 

[bullnerd]

I don't understand the love for Rust Bullet. Nearly every one pictured on here has a ton of roller marks.

James

Because they paint battleships with it!

This stuff is no joke!

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...t.com/&usg=AFQjCNFaW7bhd7cBFfnnBPOIys5QOSDRqg

 

[rattle_snake]

Floor looks good. I'm planning to do the same but not looking forward to all the hard work!

 

[JonnyC]

Floor looks good. I'm planning to do the same but not looking forward to all the hard work!

Just don't go to the length that I did. And if you do have to grind, rent the Edco from HD, it will save you a lot of time.

 

[rattle_snake]

Just don't go to the length that I did. And if you do have to grind, rent the Edco from HD, it will save you a lot of time.

No plan to grind hence RB... but still a lot of work to complete the whole job. Good thing is I don't have to deal with the 'cold' or that funny white stuff that falls from the sky where you are.

Thanks for posting your experience.

 

[JonnyC]

I moved some stuff around the garage today, and I must say that I'm regretting my decision to use Rust Bullet, at least without a clear coat. I moved my snow blower making sure to move it with the front elevated, but even the tires made some marks. Then I moved my HF 44" cabinet along with a cheap table saw, and one of those put some nice obvious scratches in the floor. My 7 year old niece rolled around on my roller seat that has some beat up wheels, and that scratched it up.

I don't think I recall seeing any pictures of a RB floor after it's been put to use. I can only imagine what it will look like after months of rolling a jack around. Once the rest of the floor is all marked up maybe it won't be so bad because it won't stand out. Maybe some type of densifier and sealer would have done me better, or just going all out with a legit epoxy and clear coat.

What has been everyone else's experience?

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

Your floor looks really nice. As for any blemishes, you could wait for warmer weather, pull everything outside and give the floor a quick clean and light sanding. Then you could put another coat on, apply flake, and then put on the Rust Bullet Clear. This will give you some hide and some clear coat durability.

 

[kngelv]

I don't like being negative but after reading many threads on Rust Bullet I am thoroughly unimpressed. It seems like a product for people who don't want the hassle of epoxy. That said - other than grinding or etching you end up doing roughly the same amount of work as installing epoxy which is more durable and looks better. I personally like tiles better than epoxy though I still have not ordered any yet. I put epoxy down in a three car garage I used to have around ten years ago and it was not that difficult, looked good and was way more durable than Rust Bullet appears to be. It was a two part QuikKrete brand I picked up at Lowes which I'm sure was not as good as most of the stuff mentioned on this site. I want to try tiles so I have a little bit of insulation from cold cement.

James

 

[Garage Flooring]

I moved some stuff around the garage today, and I must say that I'm regretting my decision to use Rust Bullet, at least without a clear coat. I moved my snow blower making sure to move it with the front elevated, but even the tires made some marks. Then I moved my HF 44" cabinet along with a cheap table saw, and one of those put some nice obvious scratches in the floor. My 7 year old niece rolled around on my roller seat that has some beat up wheels, and that scratched it up.



I don't think I recall seeing any pictures of a RB floor after it's been put to use. I can only imagine what it will look like after months of rolling a jack around. Once the rest of the floor is all marked up maybe it won't be so bad because it won't stand out. Maybe some type of densifier and sealer would have done me better, or just going all out with a legit epoxy and clear coat.



What has been everyone else's experience?

Sorry to hear you are having an issue. Rust Bullet typically has a very high wear rating, especially if an anti wear is used. That said we do get questions a lot with coating about items with wheels and dragging stuff across the floor.

If you have old messed up wheels that have been used anywhere and everywhere, I would not use them on any type of coated floor.

The area itself is very fixable. Just give me a call and I'll send you what you need.


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[Garage Flooring]

I don't like being negative but after reading many threads on Rust Bullet I am thoroughly unimpressed. It seems like a product for people who don't want the hassle of epoxy. That said - other than grinding or etching you end up doing roughly the same amount of work as installing epoxy which is more durable and looks better. I personally like tiles better than epoxy though I still have not ordered any yet. I put epoxy down in a three car garage I used to have around ten years ago and it was not that difficult, looked good and was way more durable than Rust Bullet appears to be. It was a two part QuikKrete brand I picked up at Lowes which I'm sure was not as good as most of the stuff mentioned on this site. I want to try tiles so I have a little bit of insulation from cold cement.

James

So I've been on the rust bullet band wagon since it really started being marketed for residential garages. I think EMC2 was the first to use it for that type of application on the journal -- before we started to sell it.

We sell an incredible amount of it and most of the reviews we get are outstanding.

That said it's not for everyone and it's not perfect. We try and listen to our customers and suggest the best product for their project .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[davidlee]

I put my Rust Bullet down over a year ago and I LOVE it. Yes I did put flakes in it to hide the imperfections and it has held up great. It looks as good today as it did when I finished it. I clean any oil leakage with Brake Clean and it does not damage the finish. This stuff is tuff. I see no wear marks where my lift ramps rub on the floor. I guess the only draw back is with the flakes when I drop a small part it is hard to locate. I have had ZERO delamination of any type.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I put my Rust Bullet down over a year ago and I LOVE it. Yes I did put flakes in it to hide the imperfections and it has held up great. It looks as good today as it did when I finished it. I clean any oil leakage with Brake Clean and it does not damage the finish. This stuff is tuff. I see no wear marks where my lift ramps rub on the floor. I guess the only draw back is with the flakes when I drop a small part it is hard to locate. I have had ZERO delamination of any type.

Thank you sir! Like any product there will always be a job that did not go expected. When you look at the sheer volume of posts about this product the vast majority have been incredibly positive.

 

[JonnyC]

I put my Rust Bullet down over a year ago and I LOVE it. Yes I did put flakes in it to hide the imperfections and it has held up great. It looks as good today as it did when I finished it. I clean any oil leakage with Brake Clean and it does not damage the finish. This stuff is tuff. I see no wear marks where my lift ramps rub on the floor. I guess the only draw back is with the flakes when I drop a small part it is hard to locate. I have had ZERO delamination of any type.

Thanks for sharing your experience. Did you just use flakes on top, or a clear coat as well?