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My Rust Bullet Project - 2400 sq ft

ihscomputers

Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2012
Messages
10
The final appearance has roller marks but I'm OK with that because I am more interested in the durability, ease of cleanup and being able to quickly find dropped items such as screws.

The concrete was poured in late December 2014 and has seen no vehicle traffic except for the boom lift that was used to erect the steel.

Prep consisted of thoroughly sweeping the entire floor followed by a thorough wet mop using Simple Green two weeks before the application.

This past Friday, it was thoroughly swept again, then the Rust Bullet was applied.

3 coats of the standard grey color with the final coat containing the anti-skid particles.

I used the Purdy 18" roller for the first two coats, then the 9" Wooster roller for the final coat.

The inside was cooled to 75 degrees with Relative Humidity ranging from 49% on the first day to 80% this morning when I applied the final coat to the bathroom and the Dirty Room. (I have 3 each 2 ton mini split systems.)

The 2200 sq ft main room took about 2-3 hours to apply each coat.

I still need to apply the RB to the areas around the roll-up doors.

If I had to do it all over again, I would stick with the 18" rollers and use 3" painters tape instead of the 2" because both size rollers managed to get a little bit of RB on the walls above the tape on the high spots of the corrugated metal.

I'll post photos of the finished bathroom and Dirty Room sometime this evening after the final coat has dried.

DSC04602_zpsmrumfmp2.jpg


DSC04605_zpsbwsknqlz.jpg


DSC04621_zpscm6d21to.jpg


DSC04622_zpsd4yeh8vg.jpg


DSC04631_zps4xg4rv0z.jpg


DSC04630_zpszh6m5lcw.jpg


DSC04629_zpspmn0u9pm.jpg


DSC04627_zps9sptk48e.jpg
 
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Jackfre

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Joined
Dec 26, 2010
Messages
4,406
Location
N CA
Nice work! It looks good. I have roller marks as well, but the floor is fine.
 

Garage Flooring

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Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
The final appearance has roller marks but I'm OK with that because I am more interested in the durability, ease of cleanup and being able to quickly find dropped items such as screws.

The concrete was poured in late December 2014 and has seen no vehicle traffic except for the boom lift that was used to erect the steel.

Prep consisted of thoroughly sweeping the entire floor followed by a thorough wet mop using Simple Green two weeks before the application.

This past Friday, it was thoroughly swept again, then the Rust Bullet was applied.

3 coats of the standard grey color with the final coat containing the anti-skid particles.

I used the Purdy 18" roller for the first two coats, then the 9" Wooster roller for the final coat.

The inside was cooled to 75 degrees with Relative Humidity ranging from 49% on the first day to 80% this morning when I applied the final coat to the bathroom and the Dirty Room. (I have 3 each 2 ton mini split systems.)

The 2200 sq ft main room took about 2-3 hours to apply each coat.

I still need to apply the RB to the areas around the roll-up doors.

If I had to do it all over again, I would stick with the 18" rollers and use 3" painters tape instead of the 2" because both size rollers managed to get a little bit of RB on the walls above the tape on the high spots of the corrugated metal.

I'll post photos of the finished bathroom and Dirty Room sometime this evening after the final coat has dried.

DSC04602_zpsmrumfmp2.jpg


DSC04605_zpsbwsknqlz.jpg


DSC04621_zpscm6d21to.jpg


DSC04622_zpsd4yeh8vg.jpg


DSC04631_zps4xg4rv0z.jpg


DSC04630_zpszh6m5lcw.jpg


DSC04629_zpspmn0u9pm.jpg


DSC04627_zps9sptk48e.jpg

Nice looking floor! Definitely some things that can be done to eliminate roller marks, and the 18" roller seems to be a common thread in the floors that have had them. The big thing is thinning and not overworking. On the flip side we have had people have a lot of luck with the 18" Purdy rollers so we are still trying to narrow this down.
 
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OP
I

ihscomputers

Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2012
Messages
10
Justin,

The roller marks were made using the recommended 9" Wooster rollers for the final coat.

Therefore, the 18" roller is not the problem, in my opinion.

Clearly, it is my fault for working it too quickly.

In hindsight, I should have taken more time and worked smaller sections.

Each coat was properly thinned using 6 ounces of solvent per gallon and mixed for the recommended 3 minutes before application.

Here are the photos of the finished bathroom and Dirty Room along with one of the areas under the roll-up doors that will be done later.

DSC04634_zpsgon7wrxp.jpg


DSC04635_zps6ibebdej.jpg


DSC04636_zpsfbhujrpq.jpg
 
Last edited:

Garage Flooring

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May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Justin,

The roller marks were made using the recommended 9" Wooster rollers for the final coat.

Therefore, the 18" roller is not the problem, in my opinion.

Clearly, it is my fault for working it too quickly.

In hindsight, I should have taken more time and worked smaller sections.

Each coat was properly thinned using 6 ounces of solvent per gallon and mixed for the recommended 3 minutes before application.

Here are the photos of the finished bathroom and Dirty Room along with one of the areas under the roll-up doors that will be done later.

DSC04634_zpsgon7wrxp.jpg


DSC04635_zps6ibebdej.jpg


DSC04636_zpsfbhujrpq.jpg

Not a question of fault :) we just keep updating instructions to make it easier for all. Did you thin?
 
OP
I

ihscomputers

Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2012
Messages
10
Justin,

You probably overlooked the following from my previous post:

Each coat was properly thinned using 6 ounces of solvent per gallon and mixed for the recommended 3 minutes before application.

Now that I am a Rust Bullet "veteran", I can honestly say that I believe that roller size has no effect on the roller marks issue.

The bottom line is that I am very happy with the overall result.
 
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Garage Flooring

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May 21, 2011
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5,288
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Grand Junction, CO
Justin,

You probably overlooked the following from my previous post:



Now that I am a Rust Bullet "veteran", I can honestly say that I believe that roller size has no effect on the roller marks issue.

The bottom line is that I am very happy with the overall result.

Your correct, I did ! :beer: I'm thrilled you are happy with your floor. You out a ton of work into it. And it looks awesome. The thing I value so much about this forum is we have been able to improve the methods so much because of all the input.
 

TooMuchHair

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2014
Messages
64
Floor looks Great Ihsc ! How many gallons of RB did you use? Do you think the roller marks are due to varying thickness? Just because you have to overlap slightly as part of the inherent process. Would they eventually go away if you put on more coats. Again...I think it looks GREAT, just trying to learn and decide what to do with my new floor.
 

bullnerd

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Joined
Sep 17, 2012
Messages
5,690
Location
Jersey
Computers, floor looks great ,congrats!

I have a quick question but dont want to derail your thread. Is there a step in the concrete anywhere near your OH doors bottom seal? I don't see one in the pics. Just curious.
 

benwah

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Joined
May 21, 2014
Messages
980
Location
Crested Butte, Colorado
I, for one, would not be OK with all the roller marks, it is very noticeable. Yes, it most likely won't affect the durability of the product, but aesthetics mean something too.

In the future, how would one go about applying this product while omitting roller marks?
 

Joeys79

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Joined
Nov 28, 2013
Messages
50
Location
Southern Indiana
Actually, from the pictures it looks like what RB calls Solvent Pop. They have a description on their website. In some cases it's when the top cures to quickly and the solvent underneath has no place to outgas, so it gives you pops and pimples. Adding the solvent helps this tremendously.

However, in this case it looks like another phenomenon they also describe as Solvent Pop, but where it's rolling over partially cured material and it doesn't blend and self level together. It ends up drying with rough spots that look like streaks. It's possible that the larger the floor, the harder it is to keep a wet edge. Any extra air movement or change in climate, like having to open a door, also causes it to speed up curing.

IHS - when you rolled the wet edge on these spots that left the marks, did it feel like all of a sudden it got a lot more tacky?
 
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ihscomputers

Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2012
Messages
10
OK, here are my answers to the posted questions:

TooMuchHair: Ordered 18 gallons and used 17. One gallon remains to finish the areas near the overhead doors. As previously stated, I think that the roller marks could have been reduced or eliminated if I had taken more time and applied it in smaller sections to maintain that "wet edge".

bullnerd: there is a downward slope to the concrete to allow water drainage on the outside of each roll-up door.

benwah: My shop will be used to restore classic cars and will be more of a working shop than a show piece. Once all of the equipment and cars are moved in and the shop has been in use for awhile, I won't pay any attention to roller marks.

Joeys79: Yes, during the first coat I noticed that "tacky" feel when I overworked an area and tried to avoid doing that with the 2nd and 3rd coats. It certainly is difficult to maintain a "wet edge" when trying to cover 2200 sq feet at 80% humidity.
 
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