To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

My Rust Bullet Tips

packpride85

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
77
Location
Central NC
Did my 2 car garage yesterday with Rust Bullet. Thought I would throw out a few tips to those about to take the plunge.

1. If you have done any floor prep grinding to remove a previous coating BUY AN EXTRA GALLON. I did a diamabrush grind to remove a previous sealant and boy did it soak up the first coat. For a 400 sq ft 2 car garage I had to use 1 and 1/3 gallons just for the first coat. 2 gallons would not have been enough for 2 coats. Justin recommended I get a 3rd with my order and I'm glad he did.

The first coat I was refilling the roller after doing 3x3 ft sections.

The second coat took the remaining 2/3 gal of the 2nd can and a tiny bit of the 3rd. Also was able to increase to 4x4 ft sections before refilling roller. Used almost the remaining of the 3rd can for the 3rd coat same section size.

2. You will probably see massive roller marks with your first coat. Don't panic, it seems to be unavoidable on the first one. On the next coats, use the roller to "pull down" over the section you just rolled (when roller is empty). Don't use ANY pressure, just rolling in straight lines to spread and even out the RB. Should be able to one hand it.

3. If you are using your driveway as a staging area, put down a drop cloth. I got a little bit of RB on my driveway and if you wait too long its pretty damn hard to get off.

4. Cut the armor lock plastic cap thing off of ALL the cans before you start, and make sure you have something sharp to cut with. Don't be like me and have to sit there for 10 minutes in the middle of a coat trying to get the 2nd can ready.

5. Have a second person with you to help spot clean while you are rolling the edge of the garage with the door open. I did this alone and ended up rolling over some blown in grass **** near the entrance.

6. If you are real **** about seeing surface imperfections, resurface the concrete before you lay down RB. The final color looks amazing but with the light reflecting you'll notice things like pitting, scaling, and kiss marks from my ****** angle grinding job.

7. Tape up the edges of your interior doors, wear clothes you don't mind ruining, latex gloves, and a respirator. Also might want to throw a hat on as somehow I got a tiny bit in my hair. Considering I'm already turning gray slightly I doubt anyone will notice.

I've painted maybe 1 or 2 interior rooms in my lifetime (I'm 29) and this stuff was incredibly easy to work with, even for a newbie me. Justin was extremely prompt in answering my questions mid-coat. I'm glad I went with a vendor on this site as just the customer service was worth it.

The final product looks awesome as well. If you skipped over everything and just want the most important tip: Make sure you order enough. Tell Justin about your surface condition (prep) and he will get you set.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Joeys79

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2013
Messages
50
Location
Southern Indiana
Thanks Pack... I appreciate the tips.

If the weather is on my side I'm planning on rolling out 4 coats on 950 sq. ft. next weekend. :fingersx: Last weekend was power wash and this one is filling the control cuts with the flex joint compound.

2 Questions. What size roller and how long between coats?
 
OP
P

packpride85

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
77
Location
Central NC
Thanks Pack... I appreciate the tips.

If the weather is on my side I'm planning on rolling out 4 coats on 950 sq. ft. next weekend. :fingersx: Last weekend was power wash and this one is filling the control cuts with the flex joint compound.

2 Questions. What size roller and how long between coats?

I used a standard 9" wooster 3/8" nap roller and roller tray.

When I started in the morning on the first coat the humidity was relatively high (close to 70%) and a temp of about 70. It was dry in about 3 hours.

2nd coat went on with humidity at about 60% and 80 degree temps. At the recommendation of Justin gave this one 6 hours to dry before putting the 3rd coat down around 6pm. I think being a "moisture cured" urethane it uses the moisture in the air to reduce drying times. Since my humidity was on the upper end I wanted to make sure I got the coats down without it fulling curing between.
 

fishnugget

Active member
Joined
Dec 31, 2012
Messages
28
6. If you are real **** about seeing surface imperfections, resurface the concrete before you lay down RB. The final color looks amazing but with the light reflecting you'll notice things like pitting, scaling, and kiss marks from my ****** angle grinding job.

All great tips pack,

#6 is the one that I agree with and fell victim to. I did a ****** angle grinding job as well. Post some pics :D
 
OP
P

packpride85

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
77
Location
Central NC
Here is a picture with the garage door open and a close up of the concrete surface I was dealing with. The lighter spots in the first pic are the pitted areas you see in the 2nd pic. Floor is about 16 years old and has never been resurfaced. This was after 3 coats. I bet it would eventually fill in with more coats but didn't really care.

Does it looks like a pro "show" quality job? Not quite, and that's on me for not taking care of the surface imperfections. I'm not entering my floor in any garage floor show competitions so I honestly don't care that its not mirror smooth. My garage will be used for working on my cars so I expect it to get nasty looking eventually.

I'm extremely happy with the Rust Bullet finished look even on my crappy floor. This stuff would look amazing on a brand new floor (or resurfaced to be smooth). I have zero regrets vs going the epoxy route. I think my grand total including RB, HD prep rentals, and painting material brought my total cost to about $550. Not bad considering contractors wanted $1500+ to do the same with epoxy.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1552.jpg
    IMG_1552.jpg
    132.5 KB · Views: 268
  • IMG_1554.jpg
    IMG_1554.jpg
    147.8 KB · Views: 273

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Did my 2 car garage yesterday with Rust Bullet. Thought I would throw out a few tips to those about to take the plunge.

1. If you have done any floor prep grinding to remove a previous coating BUY AN EXTRA GALLON. I did a diamabrush grind to remove a previous sealant and boy did it soak up the first coat. For a 400 sq ft 2 car garage I had to use 1 and 1/3 gallons just for the first coat. 2 gallons would not have been enough for 2 coats. Justin recommended I get a 3rd with my order and I'm glad he did.

The first coat I was refilling the roller after doing 3x3 ft sections.

The second coat took the remaining 2/3 gal of the 2nd can and a tiny bit of the 3rd. Also was able to increase to 4x4 ft sections before refilling roller. Used almost the remaining of the 3rd can for the 3rd coat same section size.

2. You will probably see massive roller marks with your first coat. Don't panic, it seems to be unavoidable on the first one. On the next coats, use the roller to "pull down" over the section you just rolled (when roller is empty). Don't use ANY pressure, just rolling in straight lines to spread and even out the RB. Should be able to one hand it.

3. If you are using your driveway as a staging area, put down a drop cloth. I got a little bit of RB on my driveway and if you wait too long its pretty damn hard to get off.

4. Cut the armor lock plastic cap thing off of ALL the cans before you start, and make sure you have something sharp to cut with. Don't be like me and have to sit there for 10 minutes in the middle of a coat trying to get the 2nd can ready.

5. Have a second person with you to help spot clean while you are rolling the edge of the garage with the door open. I did this alone and ended up rolling over some blown in grass **** near the entrance.

6. If you are real **** about seeing surface imperfections, resurface the concrete before you lay down RB. The final color looks amazing but with the light reflecting you'll notice things like pitting, scaling, and kiss marks from my ****** angle grinding job.

7. Tape up the edges of your interior doors, wear clothes you don't mind ruining, latex gloves, and a respirator. Also might want to throw a hat on as somehow I got a tiny bit in my hair. Considering I'm already turning gray slightly I doubt anyone will notice.

I've painted maybe 1 or 2 interior rooms in my lifetime (I'm 29) and this stuff was incredibly easy to work with, even for a newbie me. Justin was extremely prompt in answering my questions mid-coat. I'm glad I went with a vendor on this site as just the customer service was worth it.

The final product looks awesome as well. If you skipped over everything and just want the most important tip: Make sure you order enough. Tell Justin about your surface condition (prep) and he will get you set.

Here is a picture with the garage door open and a close up of the concrete surface I was dealing with. The lighter spots in the first pic are the pitted areas you see in the 2nd pic. Floor is about 16 years old and has never been resurfaced. This was after 3 coats. I bet it would eventually fill in with more coats but didn't really care.

Does it looks like a pro "show" quality job? Not quite, and that's on me for not taking care of the surface imperfections. I'm not entering my floor in any garage floor show competitions so I honestly don't care that its not mirror smooth. My garage will be used for working on my cars so I expect it to get nasty looking eventually.

I'm extremely happy with the Rust Bullet finished look even on my crappy floor. This stuff would look amazing on a brand new floor (or resurfaced to be smooth). I have zero regrets vs going the epoxy route. I think my grand total including RB, HD prep rentals, and painting material brought my total cost to about $550. Not bad considering contractors wanted $1500+ to do the same with epoxy.

What a great job and some good advice. I am going to go through it more in detail either later this evening or tomorrow morning. One thing though, and it will be in our video. There is a $5 pail opener you can get from local paint and hardware stores. makes opening the pail easy.
 

davidlee

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 1, 2012
Messages
275
Location
Pensacola, Fl
The 5 gallon pails are not hard to open BUT that white plastic lid lock on the one gallon are almost impossible to get off. I took me longer to get that lock off than it did to do the first coat on the floor. Lol
 
OP
P

packpride85

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
77
Location
Central NC
The 5 gallon pails are not hard to open BUT that white plastic lid lock on the one gallon are almost impossible to get off. I took me longer to get that lock off than it did to do the first coat on the floor. Lol

Glad I'm not the only one! Felt like I was missing something when I spent 15 minutes to basically saw it off with my utility knife.
 

Joeys79

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2013
Messages
50
Location
Southern Indiana
Hey PacK

How did you make out with keeping the wet edge. I just put down my fist two coats. I wasn't too concerned about the first, but with the second I can see the edge from one row to the next. The floor is 34 wide and 28 deep. I'm working it 34 feet across, working my way back to the doors, running about a 3 foot wide row. It seems to not be blending well from row to row. I'm using an 18 inch roller, so I'm getting across in about 5 minutes. Maybe I need to put it on heavier, but the 5 gal. just about did x2 on the 950 sq. ft. like it's supposed to. Or maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I got two more coats to get it right. I tried to call Justin, but couldn't get a hold of him. :headscrat

Any suggestions are welcome.:bowdown:
 
Last edited:
OP
P

packpride85

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 7, 2015
Messages
77
Location
Central NC
Hey PacK

How did you make out with keeping the wet edge. I just put down my fist two coats. I wasn't to concerned about the first, but with the second I can see the edge from one row to the next. The floor is 34 wide and 28 deep. I'm working it 34 feet across, working my way back to the doors, running about a 3 foot wide row. It seems to not be blending well from row to row. I'm using an 18 inch roller, so I'm getting across in about 5 minutes. Maybe I need to put it on heavier, but the 5 gal. just about did x2 on the 950 sq. ft. like it's supposed to. Or maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I got two more coats to get it right. I tried to call Justin, but couldn't get ahold of him. :headscrat

Any suggestions are welcome.:bowdown:

I could still see the marks on my second coat as well. They should get much less noticeable on the next coats, just make sure you do the pull down in tip #2 and don't spread to thin.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Hey PacK

How did you make out with keeping the wet edge. I just put down my fist two coats. I wasn't too concerned about the first, but with the second I can see the edge from one row to the next. The floor is 34 wide and 28 deep. I'm working it 34 feet across, working my way back to the doors, running about a 3 foot wide row. It seems to not be blending well from row to row. I'm using an 18 inch roller, so I'm getting across in about 5 minutes. Maybe I need to put it on heavier, but the 5 gal. just about did x2 on the 950 sq. ft. like it's supposed to. Or maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I got two more coats to get it right. I tried to call Justin, but couldn't get a hold of him. :headscrat

Any suggestions are welcome.:bowdown:

Yeah they let me out of the office for the holiday weekend :)

I was able to reach you on the cell. Like we discussed roller choice is everything. You need to use a good 3/8 nap roller such as the one Wooster makes. The microfiber one you are using is great for a lot of projects but not this one.
You've got my cell now. Call me tomorrow if you need help. Also feel free to text me.
 

Jackfre

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2010
Messages
4,406
Location
N CA
Yeah they let me out of the office for the holiday weekend :)

I was able to reach you on the cell. Like we discussed roller choice is everything. You need to use a good 3/8 nap roller such as the one Wooster makes. The microfiber one you are using is great for a lot of projects but not this one.
You've got my cell now. Call me tomorrow if you need help. Also feel free to text me.

When I called today, the very nice young lady responded when I asked if you were available...."Uhhhhh, no!"

Enjoy the holiday. I'll try you next week!
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
When I called today, the very nice young lady responded when I asked if you were available...."Uhhhhh, no!"



Enjoy the holiday. I'll try you next week!


Yeah. Not very often I put my extension in DND. Usually it forwards to my cell. Every once in a while I need some time off with the family :) BUT as you see I still check my email and freely give out my cell.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Commocozy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Messages
59
Location
Lake Villa IL
I have 3 gallons of base and one of black as well as a bunch of gray and white color chips waiting at home to go down! I just need the wife to get her damn desk staining project off the floor, so I can clean it and then get down to business. Appreciate all the tips!
 

Dick in Wisconsin

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2012
Messages
3,048
Location
Shawano, Wisconsin
I'm going to tackle my Rust Bullet project this. Ground the floor last week.

I have 1000sf to coat. Is that too big to tackle all at once? Should I do it in two phases?

I noticed a tool for opening the 5 gallon can at the hardware store and bought one. I see the Home Depot has the Wooster rollers and will buy them there. I presume I need to have a full set of rollers and a new tray for each coat. Is that a correct assumption?

One really naïve question. How do I get the Rust Bullet from the 5 gallon can/bucket to the paint tray? Will it pour easily without making a mess? Or should I get some small plastic pails to use?
 

rs4-380

Active member
Joined
Oct 16, 2014
Messages
33
Location
Maine
I have 1000sf to coat. Is that too big to tackle all at once? Should I do it in two phases?
IMO no.

I noticed a tool for opening the 5 gallon can at the hardware store and bought one.
5 gal bucket is really easy to open, just pry tabs back with a flat head screwdriver.

I see the Home Depot has the Wooster rollers and will buy them there. I presume I need to have a full set of rollers and a new tray for each coat. Is that a correct assumption?
roller cover yes, if you use everything in the tray it will be dry by the time you are ready for the next coat (if not I would use a new tray).

One really naïve question. How do I get the Rust Bullet from the 5 gallon can/bucket to the paint tray?
First pour could be a bit messy, but after that it's not an issue. Just put the tray on a drop cloth or big piece of cardboard before you pour.
 

Joeys79

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 28, 2013
Messages
50
Location
Southern Indiana
I got a scoop from the dollar store. It was like a small mixing bowl with a handle and pouring spout. I don't know if I would have poured. Also, you have to be careful about getting the stuff on the edge of the can. You need to keep the lid on between coats and then lid will cure to the can, you'll never get it back off. I wiped the edge if I got any on it, and used plastic wrap over it before putting on the lid.
 

Garage Flooring

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5,288
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I'm going to tackle my Rust Bullet project this. Ground the floor last week.

I have 1000sf to coat. Is that too big to tackle all at once? Should I do it in two phases?

I noticed a tool for opening the 5 gallon can at the hardware store and bought one. I see the Home Depot has the Wooster rollers and will buy them there. I presume I need to have a full set of rollers and a new tray for each coat. Is that a correct assumption?

One really naïve question. How do I get the Rust Bullet from the 5 gallon can/bucket to the paint tray? Will it pour easily without making a mess? Or should I get some small plastic pails to use?

How did it go? Looks like you got some great advice! I have been out of the office, now playing catch up
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom