My take on LED lighting

[whateg01]

I've been wanting to get rid of the old T12 bulbs in my garage for a long time. Thought of upgrading to T8s awhile back, but still had a ton of bulbs to go through. Getting to the end of those and decided to go ahead and upgrade to LED. I have read through several discussions of which type of LED upgrade is best, and yet nothing jumped out at me except "don't buy junk". So, I weighed the options. Ballast-bypass or new fixtures. Both seem to cost a lot and with several fixtures to upgrade, I figured I'd have to replace them one at a time.

Then, I was standing in the bathroom brushing my teeth and thought, why not a fixture like above my medicine cabinet? It holds 4 normal screw-in bulbs that I can buy anywhere. I looked at the fixtures at Menard's and for about $15, I could buy a fixture that was about 20" long and held 4 bulbs. I almost bought those, but then thought, why not use the 4' fixtures already on the ceiling? So, that's what I ended up doing. The sockets cost me $1.19 each and the 4-pack of 75w-equivalent LED bulbs was $12, I think.

I just got the lights up and, man, I like it! It's bright as is. If I decide it's not bright enough, I could move up to 100w equivalent bulbs, but I just don't see why I would need to. The old fluorescent fixture contains the wiring.

The benefits I see here are:
1. Bulbs can be bought anywhere. I don't believe for a minute that LED bulbs are going to last forever, and when these burn out, I just go to Wal-mart and buy another.
2. If I want brighter, I just replace the bulbs with brighter bulbs.
3. Cost was a big factor. The cheapest LED fixture I saw at Menard's was $45, I think. Well, that was the cheapest one that looked bright enough to be worthwhile. I didn't see the bulbs that could be used by bypassing the ballast, but they were probably there. I don't know if they'd have been cheaper or not, but from what I see on Amazon, I doubt it. Plus, I've read some bad things about some of those.

The only downsides I see are:
1. I had to modify the reflector to fit the sockets to them.
2. I get shadows. I don't think this is going to be a problem since I still have work lights at the lathe and mill. If I was painting, I would be concerned about it. A diffuser might help with that, too, but I like the output now.

The light measurements were taken with my phone facing straight up at the light and me standing directly beneath it. The phone was held at chest level. The photo of the drawing is just to illustrate what I mean about the shadows.

 

[whateg01]

I put up another fixture last week, re-using another of my flourescent fixtures. This time, instead of the same sockets, I ordered some plain sockets off of ebay for a cleaner look. Got it up and it was so easy just drilling four 10mm holes.

Dave

 

[Bryanthegreat]

I just bought LED fluorescent replacement bulbs at Home Depot that work with the ballast They run a little over 6.00

 

[dallen823]

Same here. That is exactly what I did.

 

[whateg01]

I kept reading stuff from others who were unhappy with the replacement bulbs and fixtures and didn't want to shell out money on something that didn't work. I looked at Menards and Lowes and didn't see any $6 replacements. What are their ratings?

 

[Bryanthegreat]

Brightness: 2100-Lumen
Estimated yearly energy cost: $2.05 (based on 3-hour/day, 11/kWh, costs depend on rates and use)
Life: 32.9-year (based on 3-hour/day)
Light appearance: 5000K (daylight)
Energy used: 17-Watt (equivalent to a 32W linear fluorescent light bulb)
Lumens per watt: 123.52
Uses 55% less energy compared to a linear fluorescent light bulb
Ideal for use in general lighting applications where fluorescent lighting is used like laundry rooms, kitchens, garages as well as commercial use in offices and hospitals
Instant fit design means that no modifications are needed to the current fixture housing instant start ballast, nor rewiring, simply plug it in and use

It looks like they run 6.97 each at HD and may not work with all ballasts but they have been good for me and easy install. Either way I feel LED is the way to go.

 

[James-W]

In my garage I am using 12 of the 100 watt CFL bulbs. I have them on 4 banks of 3 bulbs each so I can turn them all on or just turn on the ones where I am working. When working out there I usually turn them all on though, the CFL's only draw something like 23 watts each so the cost to run them is minimal. If I want to I can switch to LED bulbs when these eventually burn out, but these have been in for well over 5 years now and they are still working just fine.

 

[Bryanthegreat]

Forgot you had T12 here are the specs for those same price.

Estimated yearly energy cost: $2.41 (based on 3-hours/day, 11¢/kWh, costs depend on rates and use)
Life: 36000-hours
Light appearance: 6500K (daylight)
Energy used: 20-Watt (equivalent to a 40-Watt linear fluorescent light bulb)
Lumens per watt: 105-lumens
Ideal for use in general lighting applications where fluorescent lighting is used like laundry rooms, kitchens, garages as well as commercial use in offices and hospitals
Instant fit design means that no modifications are needed to the current fixture housing instant start ballast, nor rewiring, simply plug it in and use

 

[whateg01]

I guess I'm pretty close to that with my bulbs. About the same cost per bulb, too, just more for the sockets and labor to modify the fixtures. I do have some additional fixtures that I took down because the ballasts were bad, so this gives me a use for them. I might go pick up some of those HD bulbs to see how they compare in use.

 

[whateg01]

Man, those don't have the greatest reviews. Good to know you have had good luck with them. I see Lowes and Menards do have similar bulbs, so I don't know how I missed them. Maybe I was looking in the wrong spot? I have no idea. I know I walked up and down the aisles looking, though. Oh, well. The bulbs at Lowes cost a little more, but have much better reviews. Don't know if I want to take the chance or not, plus I do get a veteran's discount, which brings the price closer to HD.

 

[cybrdyke]

Forgot you had T12 here are the specs for those same price.

Estimated yearly energy cost: $2.41 (based on 3-hours/day, 11¢/kWh, costs depend on rates and use)
Life: 36000-hours
Light appearance: 6500K (daylight)
Energy used: 20-Watt (equivalent to a 40-Watt linear fluorescent light bulb)
Lumens per watt: 105-lumens
Ideal for use in general lighting applications where fluorescent lighting is used like laundry rooms, kitchens, garages as well as commercial use in offices and hospitals
Instant fit design means that no modifications are needed to the current fixture housing instant start ballast, nor rewiring, simply plug it in and use

Here are the problems with this particular tube...

• It's actually 23 watts each when you add in the ballast losses, so only 91 LPW, not 105.
• It only works on the older magnetic ballasts (not instant starts as written above). Chances are that in existing fixtures, these ballasts are decades old. Once the magnetic ballast finally dies, which could be soon, they have been banned and obsoleted. The lamp wont work on the new replacements, which are electronic.
• They're only rated (L70) at 36,000 hours.
• They're not available in 5000k, the most popular color for garages.

This lamp is a slow mover for Philips, who had high hopes for it. Their other products are really good performers at good value pricing. But not this one.
CD

 

[whateg01]

Here are the problems with this particular tube...
...
CD

Thanks. That's the type of thing that helped make me decide to go the route I did, along with cost. I'd rather not learn those lessons by spending my own money! In general, in my research, I found a lot of "don't buy this brand", but most of the "this light is great" comments were concerning the stuff that seemed expensive to me. I like cutting edge technology after it's tried and true!

I just thought about the ballasts I've taken out so far, and that second fixture I put up did have an electronic ballast in it, so it wouldn't have worked. Phew!


Dave

 

[Bryanthegreat]

Here are the problems with this particular tube...

• It's actually 23 watts each when you add in the ballast losses, so only 91 LPW, not 105.
• It only works on the older magnetic ballasts (not instant starts as written above). Chances are that in existing fixtures, these ballasts are decades old. Once the magnetic ballast finally dies, which could be soon, they have been banned and obsoleted. The lamp wont work on the new replacements, which are electronic.
• They're only rated (L70) at 36,000 hours.
• They're not available in 5000k, the most popular color for garages.

This lamp is a slow mover for Philips, who had high hopes for it. Their other products are really good performers at good value pricing. But not this one.
CD

My fixtures aren't decades old and the ballast are electronic. I know they will not work with everything but with mine they do and they are brighter than the Fluorescent bulbs that were in there. They also work better for me in the winter. They do have a compatibility chart also online.

 

[JazzBlueRT]

Brightness: 2100-Lumen
Estimated yearly energy cost: $2.05 (based on 3-hour/day, 11/kWh, costs depend on rates and use)
Life: 32.9-year (based on 3-hour/day)
Light appearance: 5000K (daylight)
Energy used: 17-Watt (equivalent to a 32W linear fluorescent light bulb)
Lumens per watt: 123.52
Uses 55% less energy compared to a linear fluorescent light bulb
Ideal for use in general lighting applications where fluorescent lighting is used like laundry rooms, kitchens, garages as well as commercial use in offices and hospitals
Instant fit design means that no modifications are needed to the current fixture housing instant start ballast, nor rewiring, simply plug it in and use

It looks like they run 6.97 each at HD and may not work with all ballasts but they have been good for me and easy install. Either way I feel LED is the way to go.

Are those the Phillips InstantFit? I put them in my garage about 6 months ago. Works good so far.

 

[JazzBlueRT]

Here are the problems with this particular tube...

• It's actually 23 watts each when you add in the ballast losses, so only 91 LPW, not 105.
• It only works on the older magnetic ballasts (not instant starts as written above). Chances are that in existing fixtures, these ballasts are decades old. Once the magnetic ballast finally dies, which could be soon, they have been banned and obsoleted. The lamp wont work on the new replacements, which are electronic.
• They're only rated (L70) at 36,000 hours.
• They're not available in 5000k, the most popular color for garages.

This lamp is a slow mover for Philips, who had high hopes for it. Their other products are really good performers at good value pricing. But not this one.
CD

Is that only the t12 that is not compatible with electronic ballasts?

 

[cybrdyke]

My fixtures aren't decades old and the ballast are electronic. I know they will not work with everything but with mine they do and they are brighter than the Fluorescent bulbs that were in there. They also work better for me in the winter. They do have a compatibility chart also online.

You may have misunderstood. I was referring to the 20w T12 version of the Philips tube. The one in your second post. They are not compatible with electronic ballasts.
FWIW- "not compatible" doesnt mean that they wont light up. It means that there is something incorrect in either voltage or current that is supplied to the tube. While the tube might light up, it's likely that its not performing optimally. It could be too bright, not bright enough, etc. Incompatibility usually leads to shortened life.
CD

 

[cybrdyke]

Is that only the t12 that is not compatible with electronic ballasts?

Yes. The T8's are compatible with most electronic ballasts.
Ironically, the 8 foot T12 Instantfits are only compatible with electronic ballasts while the 4 foot T12 Instantfits are only compatible with older magnetic ballasts. This is one thing that Philips got wrong with their family of T12 tubes.
CD

 

[Bryanthegreat]

You may have misunderstood. I was referring to the 20w T12 version of the Philips tube. The one in your second post. They are not compatible with electronic ballasts.
FWIW- "not compatible" doesnt mean that they wont light up. It means that there is something incorrect in either voltage or current that is supplied to the tube. While the tube might light up, it's likely that its not performing optimally. It could be too bright, not bright enough, etc. Incompatibility usually leads to shortened life.
CD

Could be mine are the T8