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My Texas 40x50 Garage Experience

Tywash

Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2011
Messages
21
Location
Texas
I decided I should go ahead and document some of the progress my building went through. This all occurred last September 29th through November 5th. I kind of got lazy about getting this posted up.

There are plenty of better documented builds than mine and also better looking. The only slightly significant thing about my building is where it's built. It is in the city limits of Fort Worth. Fort Worth does not allow a second garage building on a property. I was shut down by permits and inspections before I even got started. This is when I began to learn about how the system worked.

In Fort Worth any building that was larger than 400 sq ft (determined by lot size) or had a door wider than 6'-0" feet was considered a garage and was not allowed. Also, to be used as a garage it had to have a driveway. So I gave up. A month later I went back and asked if there was anything I could do to get a second garage and was told I could apply for a variance. I was also told that I would probably not get one since this was not common.

Looking over the paperwork I saw that there was a place to get my neighbors signatures for support and place to list occurrences of second garage buildings in my neighborhood. The subdivision I live used to be an agriculture district but not anymore. All the lots are 1/2 acre or an acre. It turned out at least 60 people had second garages in my neighborhood. So when I went before the variance board the existence of so many garages made mine a slam dunk.

Since it was a while back, I have some thoughts and input on what I should or could have done. A lot of things I just didn't know and in hindsight I would change. This goes a long way to picking your subs and the line of communication that exist between the two of you. Some problems came after the shell was done.

I posted the beginning of my electrical work here first. Still ongoing.

Setting forms & dirt Work with Boomer the beagle
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I asked for some thicker pads in the concrete for a 2 post lift. I said I needed 6" inches total. The concrete guy, Ronnie went 6" inches below grade. So now I have 10" pads
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Rebar done
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Concrete at the break of dawn
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They power troweled the foundation and knocked off the forms. This is where I realized my first and probably biggest mistake from a cost and labor standpoint. I should have had more dirt work done to slope the property behind the building more to drop the height of the slab. My property naturally slopes back to front. So the front of the building is almost 12 inches above grade. To get a driveway and sidewalk to the from of this building will take a lot of dirt. It never crossed my mind even once beforehand. Have a lot of dirt coming soon.
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The more talented the guy behind the trowel the more mirror-like it gets
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Delivering the building or The Forklift Ballet
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He had to go under the electrical over the neighbors bush and not hit the house
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Framing begins. This was the last under construction pic I had. I either lost the rest or did not take any.
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Shell Complete
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Tywash

Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2011
Messages
21
Location
Texas
Garage Door Installed I went with a CHI 3216 http://www.chiohd.com/garage-doors/commercial/3216/

The door with the with liftmaster 3800 was $2500.00 installed. Expensive I know. I wanted a door that would be almost as insulated as the walls. The door has a 17.54 R-Value. The building will be heated/cooled and I hope to be working from home 8 hours a day or more.



If you look at the top of the door you will see a 2" header added to the opening. This is because the "professional dealer/installer" ordered a 12'-0" door for a 12'-0" opening not accounting for a rain lip in the foundation. Even if there was not a rain lip, you would think he would have ordered a door that was 2"-3" inches taller for some overlap. He tried to blame it on the steel erector. I told him this is a bolt together building, the header only bolts on in one place. The builder welded a new header on and capped it with a trim piece and it looks like it was meant to be.

This is a very preliminary floorplan. I will change this as it's updated
shop.jpg
 
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ricocarlito

New member
Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
4
Nice! Looking to build something that size out in back of my place in the future. Keep us posted
 

welder57

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2011
Messages
414
May i ask who was the supplier of the steel building that you have? I'm putting up a 48'-0 x 42'-8 by 17'-0 eave height with a 12'-0 lean-to on the north wall-with a 12'-0 x 12'-0 coiling door on the main building.Great looking building:thumbup:!!!!
 
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Tywash

Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2011
Messages
21
Location
Texas
I went with Mueller bolt up because they were the least expensive and came with an engineer sealed plan.

Standard Series
Big Barn 40x50x14
One 12' x 12' framed opening
Utility 20/90 mph
Regular $12,595 SALE $9,995
•Bolt together frame
•Coldform end walls
•26 gauge Galvalume roof with 20-year limited warranty
•26 gauge Colored walls with 30-year limited warranty (White, Tan, Light Stone, Light Gray)
•Basic trim package
•Anchor Bolt plans, and erection drawings
•Framed opening centered in one end wall. (Door not included)
 

cnyeco1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 3, 2009
Messages
326
Location
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Nice building. The slab looks a little thicker than most builds. At 40x50 did you have to go thicker than 4 inches or just wanted to?

And if you don't mind disclosing what the cost of the slab was. Are you putting in the door yourself?

Thanks in advance. Just curious, we are building ours this fall.
 
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concealer404

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
1,147
What was the cost to have the building erected? Was that included in the 10K or additional?

I'm pretty sure building wasn't included, but definitely curious about the answers to this question. That's way cheaper than i would have ever thought! :)

Looks great!
 
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Tywash

Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2011
Messages
21
Location
Texas
The slab looks a little thicker than most builds. At 40x50 did you have to go thicker than 4 inches or just wanted to?

It was only 4" inches thick. It's visually deceptive looking at the forms and the dirt work. I honestly thought some spots might have been close to 3" inches.


And if you don't mind disclosing what the cost of the slab was. Are you putting in the door yourself?

$4.25 a foot, so the total was $8500.00 bucks.

I had the door installed by a "professional"

What was the cost to have the building erected? Was that included in the 10K or additional?

$3.25 a foot or $6500.00 total.
 
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Beaumont67

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
526
Location
St. Thomas, Ontario
Tywash - that is one quality garage for a $10k bolt up steel package.
- I really think Mueller makes the best, for the $$ / I need one like that to, great job
- thanks for sharing your costs, it gives us others, more to justify...since I am moving to the country next year (house under reno, now & I have a full acre...without the zoning restrictions of city life)
 
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Tywash

Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2011
Messages
21
Location
Texas
I forgot to tell ya'll I bought the gutters after I ordered my buidling. They were $900.00 and the builder put them on at no extra charge. They really make the look of the building.



Without the gutters it looks more like a shed. I also changed from the galvalume roof to white panels instead. I can't remember how much this added, but I don't think it was significant.
 
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ConstructionBoss

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 24, 2005
Messages
78
Location
Keller, TX
Nice progress! I am assuming from the True Grit mixer truck that you are in the North FTW area? I am along the Keller/FTW Border. What type of work are you going to be doing out of your shop? In your Electrical Post, you mentioned the permits were free for the homeowner. Do you not have to have a licensed electrical contractor to pull the electrical permit? I am hoping to add an additional 10'x30' woodshop to the side of our house, and and budgeting for everything right now. I have always done all of my own construction including electrical as I grew up working as a foreman for my fathers home building company, but I am in highway construction now and do not have the current experience to get an electricians license. I am probably going to have to get an electrician to pull the permit and check it over for me prior to inspections, but if I can pull the permit that should save some $$$$!!!!
 
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Tywash

Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2011
Messages
21
Location
Texas
You only have to get an electrician if you do anything to the meter base or before. You can do most things after the panel yourself.
 

thereagans

New member
Joined
Feb 18, 2013
Messages
1
We are looking at Standard Series
Big Barn 40x50x14
Utility 20/90 mph
We are wavering between the utility and basic. Have you had any problems using
utility. We are in the Sherman area. Thanks!
 
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