My TLPPC floor..

[BellyUpFish]

So, I could have gone to the river or I could have gone flying but instead, I found myself adulting and got this floor sprayed..

I wound up using right at 10 gallons on 1728sq ft. I have a couple gallons left that I'll probably just keep for touch ups.

Bare floor..



1st coat..



2nd coat..



3rd coat..

 

[CombatNinja]

Great result! It looks like you had a nice dense slab to work with that had a lot of marbling in it. The density allowed plenty of product to sit up on top to create gloss and the marbling really pops out now. I have seen more porous slabs take 5 coats and still not look that glossy.

 

[naturalgas]

My slab looks similar to yours. What did you do to prep it? I'm thinking of doing the same treatment.


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[BellyUpFish]

My slab looks similar to yours. What did you do to prep it? I'm thinking of doing the same treatment.


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It's brand new, don't even have electricity out to the shop yet, so the floor was fairly clean. But just for good measure I hit the dirty spots with Purple Power and just scrubbed.

Then I took some water and brushed the entire floor and squeegeed it clean to attempt to get all dirt up. Basically scrubbed until when pushed with the squeegee the water was clean.

Let it dry, broomed it one last time and went to town with the TLPPC.

 

[naturalgas]

Thanks, mine is only 5 months old but I've got to clean up some plaster droppings from ceiling and buff of the rest of the curing sealer that was applied when poured.


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[BellyUpFish]

Thanks, mine is only 5 months old but I've got to clean up some plaster droppings from ceiling and buff of the rest of the curing sealer that was applied when poured.


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When you get it clean, spraying it on isn't very complicated.

 

[indebt]

Wow, looks great, as expected!!

 

[Garage Flooring]

Wow, looks great, as expected!!

Nice Work!

 

[USAFpj]

BUF- beautiful work, and great looking slab! Any regrets? Still considering RustBullet, but man that marbling looks great. Could you imagine working with projects on that slab for the rest of the time it's there vs. a solid colored version?

 

[BellyUpFish]

I love the look of a standard garage floor, so I didn't want to go with an epoxy unless I went clear.

I haven't had a chance to really work on it, I'm giving it 72 hours to fully cure and then I'm going to start moving in.

No regrets so far. I really like it.

One thing I've noticed is the ease of sweeping. Seems like stuff just glides across the floor.

 

[cory58]

Before applying the TLPPC, would your concrete absorb water fairly quickly? I've been told that if the concrete does not absorb water immediately, you need to grind the floor first, so it will absorb the TLPPC correctly.

I have a 7 week old slab and this is my last weekend before the building is erected, so if I need to grind the concrete, I want to do it this Sat.

Thanks, Cory

 

[BellyUpFish]

Before applying the TLPPC, would your concrete absorb water fairly quickly? I've been told that if the concrete does not absorb water immediately, you need to grind the floor first, so it will absorb the TLPPC correctly.

I have a 7 week old slab and this is my last weekend before the building is erected, so if I need to grind the concrete, I want to do it this Sat.

Thanks, Cory

I did the "water test" with plastic and duct tape and didn't have any issues with water there.

I honestly didn't directly check the absorption rate of the slab.

 

[cory58]

I did the "water test" with plastic and duct tape and didn't have any issues with water there.

I honestly didn't directly check the absorption rate of the slab.

Thank you! What is the "water test" with plastic and duct tape? Was your slab machine troweled or hand troweled?

Cory

 

[Armorpoxy]

The water test is usually referred to as a 'moisture test' for concrete. It involves taping down on the floor sheets of clear 4' square plastic sheet and taping the edges down securely. Wait 24 hours and then inspect for darkening/dampening under the plastic, or worse, condensation on the plastic, both which indicate a moisture issue which would involved further moisture testing with Moisture Test Kits and possibly a remediation primer to hold back the moisture prior to coating.

 

[BellyUpFish]

Thank you! What is the "water test" with plastic and duct tape? Was your slab machine troweled or hand troweled?



Cory

It was machine troweled.

 

[Garage Flooring]

With this product, or any penetrating sealer, you need to make sure that a small amount of water (like a Dixie cup) will penetrate the slab. Otherwise the sealer won't soak in. Water should soak in rapidly, within minutes for sure.

 

[BellyUpFish]

With this product, or any penetrating sealer, you need to make sure that a small amount of water (like a Dixie cup) will penetrate the slab. Otherwise the sealer won't soak in. Water should soak in rapidly, within minutes for sure.

Ah, I had that all day. The 55g barrels of water I used to clean the floor proves that for me.

 

[Radix2]

Before applying the TLPPC, would your concrete absorb water fairly quickly? I've been told that if the concrete does not absorb water immediately, you need to grind the floor first, so it will absorb the TLPPC correctly.

I have a 7 week old slab and this is my last weekend before the building is erected, so if I need to grind the concrete, I want to do it this Sat.

Thanks, Cory

If you are going to grind before building, I would plan on some serious floor protection !

skytracks, coffee, pop, mud, glue, wax off of the OSB edges, nails rusting.... man it is hard to keep it nice while the contractors are about!

 

[cory58]

If you are going to grind before building, I would plan on some serious floor protection !

skytracks, coffee, pop, mud, glue, wax off of the OSB edges, nails rusting.... man it is hard to keep it nice while the contractors are about!

Very good point! Thank you. I was trying to avoid concrete dust all over the interior of a brand new building, but was not thinking about stains on the concrete.

Just did a little research and it looks like the grinding tool that the GarageFlooringLLC sales rep recommended (Diamabrush) can be used wet or dry, so the best option may be for me to wet grind it after the building is erected. GJ experts agree or disagree? How difficult will it be to get the waste product (water/concrete slurry) out of the building?

Cory

 

[BellyUpFish]

Very good point! Thank you. I was trying to avoid concrete dust all over the interior of a brand new building, but was not thinking about stains on the concrete. Another dilemma............

Are you sure you need to grind it?

 

[cory58]

Are you sure you need to grind it?

Based on advice from GarageFlooringLLC, yes. When I pour a small amount of water on the concrete, it does not soak in quickly. The main appeal of the TLPPC for me is the limited prep, so I am disappointed that I have to do this, but it would be worse if I had to start over again after applying it.

FYI - I updated my previous post after you replied.

 

[Trey T]

beautiful floor, OP

 

[BellyUpFish]

beautiful floor, OP

Thank you. I'm really happy with it.

 

[Cozeep]

Alright guys, not to sound stupid but what kind of timeline should I be looking at as far as rate of absorption? What's a Dixie cup...4-5 ounces? If I were to pour this on my slab, how long should it take for the water to absorb? Or I am overthinking this?

 

[HunterDan]

I was worried about under prepping mine, and finally I just said f it, as I was prolonging it long enough.

My slab was untouched since poured. It was power trowled and had a hard finish. I power washed and scrubbed with simple green, squeegee out and let dry a week. Rented a Clark buffer from Home Depot and went over it with a 80 grit screen. Power washed and scrubbed with concrete cleaner, squeeged out and let dry for a few days. Then applied my tlppc.

It came out good and I'm glad I took the few hours to sand it. It only took me about 4-5 hours to do about 2300 sq'

 

[Radix2]

I was worried about under prepping mine, and finally I just said f it, as I was prolonging it long enough.

My slab was untouched since poured. It was power trowled and had a hard finish. I power washed and scrubbed with simple green, squeegee out and let dry a week. Rented a Clark buffer from Home Depot and went over it with a 80 grit screen. Power washed and scrubbed with concrete cleaner, squeeged out and let dry for a few days. Then applied my tlppc.

It came out good and I'm glad I took the few hours to sand it. It only took me about 4-5 hours to do about 2300 sq'

You used a std 80 grit screen for wood floors? What kind of life did you get/ how many where needed for 2300 sq ft?

 

[cory58]

So this thread has got me wondering if I really need to sand my fresh slab, so I did a water absorption test yesterday.

Temp: 85 degrees
Sunny
Light Breeze

I poured 4 oz of water on the slab. Here is the first pic after 3 minutes. You can see that the center of the puddle is already absorbed.



Next pic was taken after approx 5 minutes.



Last picture taken after 8 minutes. Almost completely absorbed.



So, does my slab need to be sanded? Any thoughts from Justin @ GarageFlooringLLC?

Thanks, Cory

 

[HunterDan]

Cory I'd say that looks pretty good.

I used 5 80 grit screens for my slab, probably coulda got away with 1 or 2 less but I changed them often

 

[Cozeep]

Cory, thanks for the pic's for reference

 

[Garage Flooring]

Cory, thanks for the pic's for reference

Dilute your first coat by 50% (water) as a prime. It will not contribute to gloss at all.

 

[cory58]

Dilute your first coat by 50% (water) as a prime. It will not contribute to gloss at all.

Thanks Justin.