My trucks flatbed looks like ****

[mike_dmt]

I have an 08 Ford Super Duty with a CM flatbed.

The bed is straight enough and has most of the factory coating on it, but it's starting to rust in a few places, and I don't like looking at it.

I also don't want to pull it off for sandblasting or coating, so I suppose it's going to be hand work and applying whatever coating I come up with after hearing what you guys have to say.


I keep hearing that POR-15 is no good.

So, what else should I look at?

 

[RivennHewn]

I have an 08 Ford Super Duty with a CM flatbed.

The bed is straight enough and has most of the factory coating on it, but it's starting to rust in a few places, and I don't like looking at it.

I also don't want to pull it off for sandblasting or coating, so I suppose it's going to be hand work and applying whatever coating I come up with after hearing what you guys have to say.


I keep hearing that POR-15 is no good.

So, what else should I look at?

POR-15 is great stuff, but not intended to be a final coat, especially for a truck bed. It's intended to be covered with whatever top coat you're using.

Why not have it sprayed with Rhino or something similar?

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

^^^ Do what he says.^^^

Grind off the loose stuff. Bondo the dents and sand flat, doesnt have to be all that under spray on coating. Personally, I'd recommend Linex Premium, the shiny one. It'll look good.

 

[sqznby]

POR would be great for under carriage work, something out of the sun. But I would still think you'd need a top coat to protect it. Not ideal for a truck bed.

I'm a LineX fan as well.
When it comes to bed liners, prep is very important. More important than the actual application. Without good prep it will not last.
I believe you can discuss any imperfections about your bed with the installer and they will basically fill it to level it out with the rest of the bed.

 

[Kangaroo ID]

I would caution against bed liner. Had a shop rig with a flat bed, after about 8 years the rust under the Rhino lining was so bad that the lining was peeling in big sheets. The entire plate of steel had to be cut off and replaced because of this. A painted bed could have been blasted and repainted. Just my experience, hope it helps,

 

[gte718p]

I would caution against bed liner. Had a shop rig with a flat bed, after about 8 years the rust under the Rhino lining was so bad that the lining was peeling in big sheets. The entire plate of steel had to be cut off and replaced because of this. A painted bed could have been blasted and repainted. Just my experience, hope it helps,

This goes back to the previous comment. Surface prep is important. I would bet good money there were scratches or nicks and the surface was not prepared properly. They exist even on a brand new factory bed.

Linex is air and water tight if it is applied correctly. There is no way for rust to spread. If it isn't applied correctly it can be a nightmare and do exactly what you are describing.

 

[Bert_]

This goes back to the previous comment. Surface prep is important. I would bet good money there were scratches or nicks and the surface was not prepared properly. They exist even on a brand new factory bed.

Linex is air and water tight if it is applied correctly. There is no way for rust to spread. If it isn't applied correctly it can be a nightmare and do exactly what you are describing.

I have had the same experience on a truck that had bedliner covering a portion of the service body. It had some scratches and water and junk got trapped underneath causing a bunch of rust. The bedliner was applied before I had it so I don't know how good the prep work was.

Does linex still stay air and water tight even after you start using the truck and it gets a few scratches?

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I'd avoid bedliner also. Tractor paint would be my choice.

 

[bonneyman]

Just attach one of these to the frame.

 

[sberry]

Wire wheel it and roll on some black paint, he done in part of a day for just a few $.
Actually would not pressure wash first, wire wheel and scuff existing paint with purple scotch brite.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Go for a finish that can be repaired and maintained? Shoot for a maintenance free miracle finish that is hands free?

This sounds like the thinking that brought plastic finishes for wood, smart battery chargers, and sealed engine compartments. Pretty OK if done perfectly?

I like industrial valve paint or industrial equipment enamel. The first has no hardener. It "polishes" but will not chip. Spot touch ups are easy. The second chips but is hard to scratch and is fade resistant. I have used a rubberized paint from a fence supply. It won't dull, chip, or fade but only comes in black. It still looks and feels "wet" years after painting. All these have a chemical known to the State of California.

Rust Bullet and Noryl were originally intended for offshore oil platforms. They're the toughest paints I know of.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Loctite extend works better than Ospho and the other rust converters. It is milky and they add something other than just a phosphating acid.

http://m.loctiteproducts.com/p/7/0/24/s_trmt_extend/Loctite-Extend-Rust-Neutralizer

I have seen hunting rigs completely done in bed liner. It is heavy but shrugs off scratches and dents. Lasts decades without drama if done right by the right shop in black. These rigs run through cedar, rocks, bad weather, and you name it.

 

[mike_dmt]

Thanks for the advice, fellas.

I'm somewhat hesitant to go for a Rhino or Linex coating. Reason being, is that I use the truck during winter months for liquid deicing. So its regularly in contact with a very corrosive element, and as stated, if the liner fails at all, it's not good. I have both products available locally though, so I'll at least see what they say.

I do like the idea of doing touch ups as time goes on. And was thinking along the lines of a wire wheel and industrial coating. I'm not set on gloss or matte finish, but black is my color of choice.

Thanks again guys. It's good to know that I wasn't too far off track with my thinking... For once!

 

[Bretny]

Wire wheel the rusty spots, paint then bed line it. No paint is going to hold up to the dutys of a flat bed..unless your just taking it to the mall.

 

[deerehunter/operator]

Just did mine with ACE Rust stop satin black. I do it every spring and this is the best finish I have had so far. I also just did my entire dump trailer with the same stuff and it turned out nice.

 

[deerehunter/operator]

Oh and its $30 a gallon and I think I did the whole flatbed and headache rack on my 1 ton with 1/3 gallon or so

 

[WoodsTruck]

I'm reworking a much smaller flatbed. Any suggestions on treatments to combat rust from fertilizer? This was used by a landscaper and I'm quite sure they hauled fertilizer on it due to the rust formation.

The carrier is cleaning up pretty well, but the bed will require some more work. Planning to sandblast it so I can get into the corners under the bed better, but will need to coat it with something when I'm done straightening and adding some additional gussets to it.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Brine ? That'll rust heaven and earth. I'd consider anything in contact with it on a regular basis as expendable.

 

[SteveH-CO]

Rustoleum Hammered (at Home Depot at $12/quart). Like POR, but UV-proof. Can paint over a sound, rusty surface. I use it on trailer hitches and truck frames. Just note the 'black' is sort of swirled black with silver - not a true black.

 

[jeepinerdeep]

Rustoleum Hammered (at Home Depot at $12/quart). Like POR, but UV-proof. Can paint over a sound, rusty surface. I use it on trailer hitches and truck frames. Just note the 'black' is sort of swirled black with silver - not a true black.

The black in a standard rattle can is actually black. I ran in to the exact same color issue. I do like the stuff. But it's not as UV stable as the smooth rustoleum.

It will cover well.

 

[mike_dmt]

Brine ? That'll rust heaven and earth. I'd consider anything in contact with it on a regular basis as expendable.

Worse, much worse. It's a combination of a number of things with brine as the base. It also has a good amount of magnesium chloride, and calcium chloride as well.

It contains almost 3 pounds of solids per gallon.

It's custom blended by a local company for ice control and remediation.

I've seen it melt almost an inch of light snow, leaving the asphalt and concrete just wet.

It's pricey, and sometimes customers balk at it, but with how litigious people can be, it's a good investment for commercial applications.

And, as an unavoidable side effect, it corrodes almost everything.

 

[mike_dmt]

Oh and its $30 a gallon and I think I did the whole flatbed and headache rack on my 1 ton with 1/3 gallon or so

Did you spray it, or apply by hand?

 

[deerehunter/operator]

Every large flat surface was done with a roller and all the small stuff was done with a brush. The flatbed is quick and easy. The dump trailer was a pain in the ***. Well, the frame was anyway. The actual box portion was pretty quick.

 

[scooby074]

Sandblasted then hot dipped galvanized?

I have a Hot dipped equipment trailer and it is awesome. Not much I hate more than chipping rust and painting

 

[mike_dmt]

Anyone use the Ace brand called Rust Stop?

It came up on the 'ol interweb as a tractor/equipment paint, and I have one up the street.

 

[sberry]

It is simple paint. For true corrosion resistance epoxy is the way to go. It's not cheap and can have some safety issues for application. They also make another overcoat for chemicals, some kind of silicone stuff, I forgot what it is.

 

[wileycat51]

Check out the Magnet Paints website. Their "Chassis Saver" product is very good for this application.