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my USA-made vise restorations

Mark_RP

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hey guys, I found your site a few months ago and got some great vise information, so I figured I would share the ones I have so far. If anyone has more info to add about these, Id love to hear it.

I'm from Buffalo, NY so I'm trying to get my hands on a Howard Iron Works (Buffalo), and I also like the style of certain Prentice Bulldogs (NYC), so those could be my next projects if I find the right deal on one.

1. Hollands (Erie, PA) - I got this for $10 at an estate sale, it was all locked up and looked rough, but undamaged so I knew it had potential. Spins with 1 finger now
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Mark_RP

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2. Dunlap - I got this little one out of my aunts garage when she moved. I assume it was one of my uncle's, who died decades ago. No one had touched it in atleast 30 years. I wouldnt be surprised if it was installed when they bought the house in the teens or twenties.

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Mark_RP

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3. Wilton Shop King - I picked this up at a flea market. Its from Chicago, unlike my usual NY/PA pickups, but I love the style of it. I actually still need the t-bolt that tightens the swivel base, but I have had zero luck looking online for what those are called and where to find some to try. I think the guy at the flea market just used a different bolt in the base and just cranked it down to keep it in place, so I'll need to get the right hardware all around for it.

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Mark_RP

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4. Prentice (NYC) - I picked this one up on ebay already restored. It could still use a little work, but I care more about function than bling, so I'll probably just install it and get using it.

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Mark_RP

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6. ???? This is the next one I'm going to restore. the circular area where it would give the manufacturer is worn out. Any ideas?

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Mark_RP

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here are some 'during' pictures. I broke everything down, sandblasted everything, wirewheel polished the handle/screw and slide portions, painted and cleared everything.

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Mark_RP

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Here is the full collection so far.

They wont stay nice for long because they are getting put to work, but they are now fresh and turn freely, ready for another 50-100 years of service.

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Mark_RP

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I should also include these, my pipe vises. Both are JH Williams, one made in Brooklyn in the 1900s or teens, the other made in Buffalo in the 1920s. I wont be restoring these, they have great patina and work perfectly. I'm going to build a mini work station to hold these vises and my tubing notcher for when I do roll cages. I built my own hydraulic tubing bender for that too.

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not vise related, but cool... the tubing bender:
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Mark_RP

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I just used rustoleum spray paint, but I did a primer, base color and clear. I figured I would give it a few layer chance at surviving the work I'll put them through.

I'm not sure if thats the way to go or not, but this was my first attempt deviating from my 'all go no show' mentality Ive learned from racing, haha
 

geologist

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The next time you come across a vice, you should try a slow rust blue. They look amazing when they're finished because it preserves a lot of detail. I love your Littleton and the Wilton Shop King. The others are nice too, but that design just pops for me (its more suited to what I use my own vice for).

Nice work, especially from a rattle can. I would have thought they were powdercoated for sure.
 
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Mark_RP

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Steven, good call on the slow rust blue. I just youtubed it and wish I had known for the dunlap, it would have been cool looking.

The littleton and wilton were totally impulse buys because of their style. I'm running out of tables I can even mount these too, so I'll just keep building more I guess. Ive built 2 engine room tables and one shop table so far. I've been dying to get these back over to the drill press to make holes for the vises now that they are finally done:

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Mark_RP

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yeah that #6 is cool. It swivels horizontally on its base until tightened, and it can be lifted off and reset vertically though the other hole you can see. Its big jaws would make me think it may be wood related, but I dont know. Ive been using it as a lightweight vise on my fabrication table for being able to work on small metal parts from multiple angles more easily.
 
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GRX

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Wondering why someone would sandblast threads. Especially Acme. :wtf:
 
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Outlawmws

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2. Dunlap - I got this little one out of my aunts garage when she moved. I assume it was one of my uncle's, who died decades ago. No one had touched it in atleast 30 years. I wouldnt be surprised if it was installed when they bought the house in the teens or twenties.

Dunlap is a Sears brand (Like Craftsman and Companion) and Started about 1941. 1940 and earlier it was Companion as the "little brother" to Craftsman.

That one is possibly war years, as the 48 catalog lists a 5244, and yours is 5239. (for some reason, the war years power tools catalogs don't show vices, but pre and post war do...), and the 50's vises have higher numbers also.
 
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Mark_RP

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kes, thanks! I had no idea what that one was, I just saw the usefulness and the "made in usa" and figured Id get more info as I had time

outlaw, I knew about its connection to sears but no idea about its start date and numbering system, thanks! I would say it was purchased and installed new then, that timeline would fit.

grx, I'm always interested in learning new ways to work with metal. Those screw/handles were in rough rusted shape, one vise couldnt even turn over for me to break apart, and one of the sliding handle portions was rusted solid. they seem to work and look better than new now, but any other prep I can do in that situation is welcome too.
 

Outlawmws

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That vise in pic #6 looks like a gunsmith vise

It is a Gun smith vise :thumbup:


Mark, you should try an electrolysis setup for rust/paint removal. For cast iron/steel, or any non plated, non stainless, ferrous metal, it works great, nearly painless, and takes away 0 base metal. A quick hit afterward with a fine wire, wire wheel and it is nearly polished unless the surface was rough to begin, (sand castings, or heavily etched corrosion)

I had one DP vise that some PO had sprayed EVERYTHING with a heavy coating of gray paint, and the paint came off in layers, looking line it had been skinned, surface by surface.
 
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GRX

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grx, I'm always interested in learning new ways to work with metal. Those screw/handles were in rough rusted shape, one vise couldnt even turn over for me to break apart, and one of the sliding handle portions was rusted solid. they seem to work and look better than new now, but any other prep I can do in that situation is welcome too.
Given the threads were rusty blasting is probably the best option. Not sure what you used, I would have tried a soft blast media like crushed walnut shells first. I'd be afraid of sand or glass bead imbedding itself into the surface. We all know what that can do. Could be especially problematic with a large thrust face thread like the Acme. Then again, I am just nit picking. Love how the vises came out. :thumbup:
 
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Mark_RP

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Given the threads were rusty blasting is probably the best option. Not sure what you used, I would have tried a soft blast media like crushed walnut shells first. I'd be afraid of sand or glass bead imbedding itself into the surface. We all know what that can do. Could be especially problematic with a large thrust face thread like the Acme. Then again, I am just nit picking. Love how the vises came out. :thumbup:


I do need to be careful with this resto stuff, thats why Im working the kinks out on vises and stuff like that. I actually traded some fab work for some media blasting on certain parts, including the threads. My buddy does blasting at work and used something softer than I would have had laying around.


Im actually waiting to send him a few more pieces (including some suspension pieces for the car build) but I have 2 more vices to include first. One of which is some old vise that my barber offered to give me, so maybe it will be a cool one that I can try that rust blueing procedure that was mentioned earlier
 

RRmech

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Really great thread!!!

I just picked up a small Dunlop #05241 vice.
It's in pretty decent condition, but I'd still like to do a full restoration on it.
I do not have access to a sandblaster anymore, so I'll probably just Dremal/wire brush/sand paper it down to bare metal.

Steve
 
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