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Nail Type for T1-11 Panels?

glider

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Starting to cover some interior walls in the barn. Was planning on staining before I put the panels up. If I was putting this outside it would be a galvanized ring shank nail. This going inside and staining before install. Really didn't want to look at shiny nail heads. Do you think staples would be a option? The panels are 5/8".
 
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lakeroadster

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Central Colorado
Which type of T1-11 siding are you using? Some of it is made from fiber, other is more like plywood.

For the fiber style I would think the staples wouldn't have a big enough clamping area to sufficiently restrain the panel.
 
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glider

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Which type of T1-11 siding are you using? Some of it is made from fiber, other is more like plywood.

For the fiber style I would think the staples wouldn't have a big enough area to sufficiently restrain the panel.

It is 4'x9'x5/8" Araucoply 8" OC.
 

AKCJ

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Apr 22, 2015
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I don't like the look of staples but I've seen a lot of T 1-11 put on with them.

I've used finish nails with an air nailer before with no problems but you've got to be careful.
 

bwringer

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I had to replace a few of these and used the painted screws. They disappear pretty well.

As noted above, finish nails with an air nailer are an option that vanishes almost entirely, but would make me a little nervous. Interior walls tend to end up with stuff hanging from them. I'd want some screws.
 

dmdc411

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Mn
In 1987 my dad built a pole shed using T-111 panels. Used galvanized flatheads. Can't remember the size, drove what seemed like a million! And all by hand! He sold the homestead 4 years ago. We stained that siding once, and he touched up maybe 4 times. That stuff held up to all those years of Minnesota weather with minimal care, and not much decay. I would use colored screws for interior use, because you will hang whatever from it. Don't need it coming loose.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

PugetDude

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Superstition Mountains, AZ
For an interior wall that is going to be painted, narrow crown staples installed vertically all but disappear. Wouldn't work for an exterior panel, but you shouldn't experience high wind loads inside the shop...
 

pattenp

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Use small head black oxide finishing screws. If you sink them you can cover with wood filler and stain to match or use colored putty to fill.
 

theoldwizard1

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SE MI
As noted above, finish nails with an air nailer are an option that vanishes almost entirely, but would make me a little nervous. Interior walls tend to end up with stuff hanging from them.

CONCUR ! Just don't hang anything heavier than a picture frame between studs. Pretend it is drywall.

If you wanted more holding power, place construction adhesive on the studs before nailing.
 

tarmy

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Nor Cal
Nails will pop...the wood on the sunnyside will buckle with nails over time...

Screws...spaced about a foot apart throughout the panel...pin it down good then you won't be dissapointed later...
 
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cdestuck

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Altoona, Pa
spiral galvanized nails. No way they will pop at all and the stain you use will coat them. Have used them on t1-11 many times
 

ishiboo

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Oshkosh, WI
Use panel adhesive and simply brad or finish nails to hold the panels on until it sets up, if you are concerned about visual appearance.
 

toolmiser

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La Crosse, WI
I am not going to wade into the technical aspects, but screws would certainly be sweet if you needed to remove a panel(s) for upgrades inside the walls.
 

jd_1138

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May 8, 2013
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NE Ohio
My vote X2

X3, torx screws have more holding power, can be easily removed if you ever had to, and you can zip them in with a 1/4 impact driver. Wouldn't have to use as many per panel as you would the nails.

But what you got above will certainly work well too. Definitely don't want a fat fastener, as it will destroy the T1-11.
 
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