NockOn
Well-known member
Hardware store sent me ring shanked hot dipped galvanized 3 1/4" nails instead of smooth shank. Besides cost, any reasons I can't use those nails?
Thanks
Claude
Thanks
Claude
Nails for framing
- Thread starter NockOn
- Start date
Don1357
Well-known member
Nope.
you're fine with them
dutchgray
Well-known member
Just get a few smooth nails for any temporary bracing because you won't be getting ring shanks back out again.
dutchgray
Well-known member
We use hot dipped galvanised for all hand driven framing nails in the UK, gun nails you can get electro galvanised or hot dipped, I expect I have hammered in over a ton of 100 by 4.5mm wire nails by this point, but we also use pressure treated timber for almost all structural work, so bright nails are not a lot of use for framing.
firebirdparts
Well-known member
I really don’t like them, because the will break before you can pull one. I had a deck that used them and they really were not entirely successful at staying in when you wanted them to in that specialized environment. In the dry I think they’d work great at holding a building together.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Hot dipping, even without the ring shank, adds A LOT of grip strength.
Do Nails or Screws Have the Most Holding Strength?
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
I dismantled a deck one summer. All of the nails had to go because the wood was getting hauled away by the city (no charge) as long as there were no nials or screws protruding.
The entire deck, including the top boards was assembled with 8d hot dipped ardox nails. The heads would rip of so you had at attach a Vice Grip to what was left of the shank and use a full size wrecking bar to pull it out. Probably over 1000 mails !
nadogail
Well-known member
I would have cut the protruding nails, nails fully embedded are not protruding
PassnThru
Well-known member
I would see this as a testament to the added gripping power. I don't think hot dipping a nail decreases it's structural strength - it's just that it held enough to overpower the head strength of a non dipped nail.
strutaeng
Well-known member
Should be ok for little bit of work. The smooth shank (sinkers) have some type of coating that makes them easier to drive. So the ring shank are going to take a little more power. Again, I'm assuming your are building a small project, so just move on.
Typically ring-shanks do have more "pull-out" strength for things like deck or fence boards that are constantly trying to move from contraction/expansion of the wood, but in a framing application, nails are not really even loaded in pull-out, mostly shear, so either will work just fine.
I didn't watch the video @theoldwizard1 posted, but there are tables used in design that have most of these values already tabulated...didn't need to reinvent the wheel...although it is for entertainment purposes for his general audience I suppose.
Typically ring-shanks do have more "pull-out" strength for things like deck or fence boards that are constantly trying to move from contraction/expansion of the wood, but in a framing application, nails are not really even loaded in pull-out, mostly shear, so either will work just fine.
I didn't watch the video @theoldwizard1 posted, but there are tables used in design that have most of these values already tabulated...didn't need to reinvent the wheel...although it is for entertainment purposes for his general audience I suppose.
nadogail
Well-known member
When I was building 255 lineal feet of 6' tall fence on one property, I bought myself a Pneumatic Framing Nail Gun. Never regretted that cost because of the labor it saved me.