To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Name that part (HVAC help needed)

metalhead212121

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
2,898
I figure this is the best place to post this question.

Having problems with the furnace in my house. In a normal world you'd call a Professional... he'd come... fix what's needed and whether he was there for 5 days, 5 hours or 5 minutes you'd get a bill for AT LEAST the service call....

As always I begged, pleaded, screamed, cried said I'd give a blank check to NOT get involved in attempting to fix something I don't feel I'm qualified to do. It didn't matter. Long story short I'm being told that this mystery part is "probably bad." I'm not going to fight or question it. I'm flat out going to use the "parts cannon" method and work from there. I'm using the path of least resistance. The "professional" said to change it so... what is it?? :headscrat

I forgot to mention its the brown rectangular box with 2 torx screws that is "supposed bad part." The third picture is the inside cover of what would cover the whole assembly.
 

Attachments

  • mystery  part 1.jpg
    mystery part 1.jpg
    133.3 KB · Views: 176
  • mystery part 2.jpg
    mystery part 2.jpg
    131.6 KB · Views: 160
  • mystery part 3.jpg
    mystery part 3.jpg
    132.9 KB · Views: 137
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

ambenz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2010
Messages
4,236
Location
NW Chicago Suburbs
It is basically a on/off switch to turn something on when the pressure rises above the set point shown on the "cut in" gauge. You can adjust when the switch turns on by adjusting the screw on top and watching the cut in pointer move up and down the scale. Those electric contacts inside that bakelite housed relay are possibly shot.

$127.00 US

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywel...tractive-1-psi-to-5-psi-Differential-Pressure

pa404a1025-1.jpg
 
Last edited:

pacemade

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2015
Messages
248
Location
Alaska
Remember how it all came apart, ask the parts guy a lot of questions, see if it comes with directions and put it back together exactly how it came apart. Good luck.
 

John T

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2011
Messages
903
I wouldn't be surprised if you have to buy the entire controller


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
M

metalhead212121

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
2,898
Remember how it all came apart, ask the parts guy a lot of questions, see if it comes with directions and put it back together exactly how it came apart. Good luck.

"professional" told me to flip the switch off at the furnace, undo the two red wires and two torx screws... put new part in and put it all back together.

Right now I'm just waiting for a ride to Home Depot. Why am I going to Home Depot Vs. any other Hardware/HVAC supply place? BECAUSE I was told to buy it there.
 

brewchief

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
2,370
Location
Michigan
You will have to buy the entire control, if its mounted on a little pigtail looking loop of pipe remove whatever you need to and clean the pigtail out, they tend to plug up.

Since you've been dragged into it give us some insight to what is going on, steam boilers aren't real common in many areas so there are fewer techs every year that can fix them.

Fwiw the best online resource for steam boilers is the wall at heating help.com , lots of very smart guys there.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

Skelly

Active member
Joined
Aug 18, 2012
Messages
29
its a low pressure control. you can connect the 2 red wires together and start the unit.

THIS, if you are in a pinch.

Disclaimer, make sure furnace and breaker are turned OFF while you do this.
 
OP
M

metalhead212121

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
2,898
It is basically a on/off switch to turn something on when the pressure rises above the set point shown on the "cut in" gauge. You can adjust when the switch turns on by adjusting the screw on top and watching the cut in pointer move up and down the scale. Those electric contacts inside that bakelite housed relay are possibly shot.

$127.00 US

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywel...tractive-1-psi-to-5-psi-Differential-Pressure

pa404a1025-1.jpg



You will have to buy the entire control, if its mounted on a little pigtail looking loop of pipe remove whatever you need to and clean the pigtail out, they tend to plug up.

Since you've been dragged into it give us some insight to what is going on, steam boilers aren't real common in many areas so there are fewer techs every year that can fix them.

Fwiw the best online resource for steam boilers is the wall at heating help.com , lots of very smart guys there.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the input guys. REALLY appreciate it! Long story short I did put a new pressure switch in and everything SEEMS to be OK. Time will tell.

I'll give the full rundown of what happened later on.
 
OP
M

metalhead212121

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
2,898
slight update...

When I took the old pressure switch out it was cranked all the way down to .5psi so when I put the new one in I set it to .5 psi. Everything seemed to be ok for the first couple hours and then the furnace quit working again. I bumped the pressure up a couple psi and it immediately kicked on. Any ideas what I should set the pressure at?
 

acmikee

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2005
Messages
301
Location
olympia, wa
is this a furnace or a low pressure steam boiler. if its a steam boiler one pipe or two system and how many floors. give as much info as you can......
 
OP
M

metalhead212121

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
2,898
is this a furnace or a low pressure steam boiler. if its a steam boiler one pipe or two system and how many floors. give as much info as you can......

you have to forgive me with my poor terminology when it comes to HVAC stuff. I'll fully admit that I'm pretty much clueless when it comes to stuff like this.

I guess I should call it a steam boiler. As far as floors in the house... there's the basement, first floor, second floor and the attic. The attic is NOT heated.

The name of the boiler is Utica Boilers. The boiler itself was put in about 10 or 15 years ago.

Before I go any further here's how all hell broke loose....

Last couple days things were as "peaceful" as they could be. Yesterday morning I turned the heat up (one thermostat for the whole house) for my tenant (the front of my house is rented out to a business) and no heat was coming out of the radiators. Called a professional and he came and said that I need a pressure switch. The guy I called was the guy that put the boiler in 10 or 15 years ago. I really shouldn't knock him. He's been somewhat of a family friend for years and years. There's just times I've called him for HVAC issues and when I talk to him there's times he seems like he's on another planet. :sad: He didn't charge me for the house call which I'm happy about but the last time I called him I got roped into helping him... had to go to a plumbing store and get parts for him and then I got handed a nice big bill. I looked at him funny with the "I helped you with the job and had to go to the store and buy the parts... don't you think this bill is a little high?" I guess with it all evens out in the end. :dunno:
 

Attachments

  • steam boiler 1.jpg
    steam boiler 1.jpg
    146.5 KB · Views: 80
  • steam boiler 2.jpg
    steam boiler 2.jpg
    143.2 KB · Views: 68

acmikee

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2005
Messages
301
Location
olympia, wa
that is your operating control for your steam boiler. on the old control is the differential adjustment is that set the same on the new control. and does your gauge go to zero when the boiler is off. if not replace gauge and clean the tube it might be pluged.
the black cover below it is your low water cut out.
I do not recommend working on a boiler if your not experienced.
also insulate your pipes use 2" if you can get it
 

pstnbly

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
766
Location
So. Vermont
As others have said that is a pressuretrol. They are fairly reliable. The biggest issue is with the "pigtail" the curly pipe the pressuretrol is mounted to. They require periodic cleaning and will cause problems if clogged or partially restricted. The cleaning process is straight forward.
 

Caddybill

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 21, 2014
Messages
314
Location
Long Island, New York
slight update...

When I took the old pressure switch out it was cranked all the way down to .5psi so when I put the new one in I set it to .5 psi. Everything seemed to be ok for the first couple hours and then the furnace quit working again. I bumped the pressure up a couple psi and it immediately kicked on. Any ideas what I should set the pressure at?
.5 psi is fine
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

metaldad

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2011
Messages
7,748
Location
nw indiana
i sure dont see many steamers piped in copper.
i assume the pressure relief is 15#?
stat cycles the boiler?
pressuretrol cycles the burner?
all sensing lines clear?
2.5 c.o.
.5 c.i. should be sufficient on most resi systems
didnt know the orange box carried pressuretrols
 

nadogail

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
31,930
Location
Coronado, CA
Being retired from the US Navy, I did not realize that a steam boiler would be operated at 5 pounds.

The industrial boilers of my experience operated at far greater pressures.

I learn something every day. Thanks guys and gals for the lessons.
 

csp

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
5,719
Location
Franktown, CO
I kept reading the word furnace and couldnt figure out why it would have a pressure switch,thats why I jumped ahead and asked.:dunno::lol:

That's why I asked what brand furnace and model number the OP has. Didn't make sense to me either.

newer warm air furnaces have pressure switches. different type, but, still monitor pressure

Newer furnaces don't have pressure switches like the OP had posted photos of. They have limit switches and fan inducers have switches based off of vacuum.
 

LS6 Tommy

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2013
Messages
26,162
Location
Northern NJ
HO LEE Chit lots of BAAAD advice. That is not a furnace. It's a steam boiler and that is the main operator. DO NOT EVER jump it out. Call a qualified technician.

Tommy
 
Last edited:

mygarageone

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 16, 2013
Messages
2,691
Location
Munising , Mich
HO LEE Chit lots of BAAAD advice. That is not a furnace. It's a steam boiler and that is the main operator. DO NOT EVER jump it out. Call a qualified technician.

Tommy

X2

Scares the hell out of me when all the wanna b's give advice on boilers , especially Steam boilers.
Boilers are nothing. To be guessing on.

Out of every 30 HVAC guys , 1 May know enough to lite a steam boiler.

How hard can it be Gomer
 

404

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Messages
3,463
Location
Mass
The rust stains under the sight glass inspire not only confidence but also serenity. Is there water in the glass when the two red handled valves are open, or just rust marks?

Are the vents on the radiators hissing and blowing until the radiators get hot?

Good luck to you in getting this fixed. Steam cooks flesh like you could not imagine.
 

metaldad

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2011
Messages
7,748
Location
nw indiana
I havent seen one on a forced air furnace in these parts,other than a vacuam operated switch off of an inducer motor.What kind of furnaces are you referring to?:dunno:

For starters, the 95% York furnace I installed downstairs.
Last year.
Parts listing calls them switch, pressure. There's 2 of them.
Vacuum is a measurable pressure, although a negative. BFD. It's still a pressure switch.
(york - johnson- source1 web site(s) leave alot to be desired, or, I'd put the link up).
If you want to chase it down, it's publication #035-23623-001, page 1.
The Modine Hot Dawg I installed in the garage last month calls it a pressure switch in their manual, #6-583.8, page 18 & 21.
It's on a download file, thru their web site.
http://www.modinehvac.com/web/produ...nic-unit-heaters/hot-dawg-power-vented-hd.htm
 

metaldad

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2011
Messages
7,748
Location
nw indiana
That's why I asked what brand furnace and model number the OP has. Didn't make sense to me either.



Newer furnaces don't have pressure switches like the OP had posted photos of. They have limit switches and fan inducers have switches based off of vacuum.
no kidding
 

86turbodsl

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 1, 2005
Messages
6,556
Location
Michigan
The OP has probably no business working on a steam boiler. Start jumping wires out and you have a bomb on your hands that can go off at any time. Call a service tech with a boiler cert. Please.
 

404

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Messages
3,463
Location
Mass
The OP has probably no business working on a steam boiler. Start jumping wires out and you have a bomb on your hands that can go off at any time. Call a service tech with a boiler cert. Please.

All True, but at least OP will be warm for the rest of his life.:willy_nil
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom