Need a 1/2" stud 18" long threaded on both ends

[FarmerSid]

Working on a C4 Corvette cross member build and need two 1/2" studs 18" long threaded 2" in on each end. These are needed for the lower control arms. I can't seem to find any. Could I make my own? If I did make my own, would they be strong enough?

 

[Hornman]

Of course you can make your own. Need some more info tho. Do the threads on both ends have to be right hand thread, or does one end have to be left hand thread? If you need a left, then you will have to buy left and right hand threading dies. If these parts require high strength, you will have to get high strength steel bar stock from a specialty steel supplier.

 

[FarmerSid]

The threads don't need to be left handed I don't think. Was thinking of using nylock nuts. Yes the stud has to be strong as it holds the lower control arm on to the cross member. Attached is a picture of the long bolt/stud I'm talking about that attaches the lower control arm.

 

[Bib Overalls]

These guys may have what you need. They do a lot of Corvette based front suspensions.

http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/

 

[Richard D]

How about 1/2" all thread?

 

[Spareparts]

Try a hydraulic repair shop, the tie bolts on some cylinders would work and almost to a tee what you are looking for. Also a spring shop could make them for you, they make "U" bolts and that is basically what they do thread the rod and bend it, you just don't need the bend.

 

[FarmerSid]

Thanks for the idea's guy's. Never thought of a hydraulic or spring shop.

Here's a few pics of the project. Been asked for some pictures. What it looked like when I got it.





Starting teardown



Complete 1990 C4 Corvette IFS



My youngest helping me pull the engine that ran and drove.



The spot where the work happens




Having a blast working on this old truck.

 

[FarmerSid]

Well. I called a few hydraulic places and all said that they never order in new tie rods. They didn't sound that interested i pursuing the request any farther. Spring shops said they only use mild steel for the u bolts. Called a few fastener manufacturers in my province and all said that they would be a custom parts and would cost upwards of $200 for two. One did suggest that I buy a 18" bolt (at least grade 8) and cut the head off and thread the amount needed. He said that cut threads are weaker than rolled but would still be plenty strong for what I need.

Thoughts?

 

[olllotj]

Did you try a chevy dealer?

 

[PugetDude]

Why not just buy a length of 1/2" cold rolled steel (use 4140 if you're concerned about strength) .and thread the ends with a die? It wouldn't take very long to do two pieces.

Any machine shop could also cut them on a lathe pretty quick.

 

[lotsoftools]

Did you try a bigger fastener company, like Fastenal? They have a manufacturing division.

 

[Rookie2]

That looks like a home brew set up , similar to a Mustang 2 tubular lower control arm set up. I think you need to do a little more research on your mount set up. Street rodders tried this set up and didn't understand the brute force that the lower control arm transfers into the vehicle frame, I can say without a doubt that your control arm will tear that homemade mount and bolt off. If you decide to continue ,at least use a grade 8 or stronger bolt.
good luck!

 

[Capt Chrysler]

PLEASE CK OUT THESE WEB SITES!

http://www.progressiveautomotive.com OR http://www.flatout-engineering.com

Lower A frame mounting is not a thing to be weak on. There was a "few" MII lower crossmembers that failed do to the caster rod being removed so a Tubular A arm could be used!

Capt. Chrysler

 

[454ragtop]

I'm no engineer, but it looks like you're changing the lower control arm mounts from double shear to single shear, probably not a good thing. Pretty sure these were all metric fasteners also, so 1/2" is most likely smaller than the original fasteners. I think machine shop suppliers like Mcmaster Carr carry a stronger grade of threaded rod, but still don't think that's the right way to go here. Are you narrowing the front end at all?
HTH, Jim

 

[ranger302]

I wish you were closer i could make you some from 4140 PreHard.

 

[48RON54]

You have parts on there that I assume you will not be using in your build that will sell fairly quickly to the lowrider crowd on ebay.

 

[rsanter]

I think you can just use all read but not the regular stuff. They have all thread that is made from hardened material so you can but that

If you were to buy a bolt, can't you just shove it through and use it? Does it really need to be threaded on both ends?
You would have to take the shaft out anyway to get the arm off.

It would be an easy conversion to change that to double shear. Just make some tabs the right size and bolt them in place and then weld them to the frame...easy and would be much stronger. Less stress on the bolt you put through it

Bob

 

[Spareparts]

How about Swedge Tubes like they use for control arms on dirt race cars, make them in various lengths and sizes. Personally I would go with 3/4" and 3/4" heim joints, they make them 3/4" with 1/2" hole on the ball end. The swedge tubes come threaded with left and right hand thread. Rod End Supply has them and also Speedway Motors in Lincoln Neb.

 

[NASTYZEN]

Why not just buy a length of 1/2" cold rolled steel (use 4140 if you're concerned about strength) .and thread the ends with a die? It wouldn't take very long to do two pieces.

Any machine shop could also cut them on a lathe pretty quick.

4340 is what I like to use for that application.
Seeing as your not that far away. You can PM me with your dimensions and I'll see what I can do for you.

Claude

 

[paranoid56]

why cant you just use a long bolt? that way all the pivot points would be on the bolt shaft and not any of the threads (as it would be with allthread)

 

[FarmerSid]

I sent you a PM Claude/Nastyzen. My cross member is similar to Flatout but beefier. I've been doing a bit of thinking and another option I have been thinking about is using 1.25" solid round bar and drilling and tapping it to M14 or M18 and using a hardened bolt on either end.

 

[NASTYZEN]

PM sent.

 

[gearhead1]

Why not just buy a length of 1/2" cold rolled steel (use 4140 if you're concerned about strength) .and thread the ends with a die? It wouldn't take very long to do two pieces.

Any machine shop could also cut them on a lathe pretty quick.

Exactly! How much car stuff do you do? A small lathe might be worth it at some point. Stuff like this would be easy.....

 

[theoldwizard1]

I've been doing a bit of thinking and another option I have been thinking about is using 1.25" solid round bar and drilling and tapping it to M14 or M18 and using a hardened bolt on either end.

I like this idea much more !

 

[retrobuilder]

Mc Master carr stock:

hex stock 18" threaded 2 inches per end..easy to assemble and stronger with wrenching flats.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8420k89/=s4y8rt

 

[mtrcycldude]

Machine shop for sure!

 

[retrobuilder]

Why spend 5x as much when it is available to the length and threads and stronger size he wants as well as flats for a wrench?

I'd go with Mcmaster and have two parts in a day or two