To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Need a belt sander recommendation.

K

KMdef9

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2016
Messages
713
Location
The Motorcity
I have a table project that has been put on the back burner because I've been using an orbital sander, and despite hand sanding the last 3 grits, I can't get a swirl/track free finish (understanding I am not a pro at sanding). And I always find out after staining, and I'll be sanding the table down for 3rd time and want it to be the last. So I'd like to try a belt sander on it.

Also, saw a vid on youtube about people making workbenches out of 2x4's, using a planer and a belt sander, something I'd like to do for my garage and my basement.

The variation in price on these is very large, compared to other tools. On other tools it was easy to justify spending alittle more for a quality tool. But these run from $50 to $300, from x amp to y amp and 3" belt to 4" belt. I could spend $50-100 with no issue. $200 will take some talking-to-the-wife and I think $300+ isn't an option.

I only plan on doing smaller projects, tables/furniture, no floors and will be used as a casual homeowner, not professionally. So, I don't think I need 4", but won't rule them out.

Google search results point me to these:
Makita:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000056NOC/?tag=atomicindus08-20
P&C
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RFT5YA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
At the bottom, B&D;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZU73I/?tag=atomicindus08-20


Anyone have a belt sander recommendation?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
C

crewchief888

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
13,744
Location
NW indiana
i have a ridgid 3x19. it's done everything ive asked of it, including sanding hardwood flooring.

most recently i used to to strip multiple layers (5 or 6) of paint off an old farmhouse door, sure beat the hell out of scraping and using an orbital sander.


:beer:
 

Attachments

  • door 1.jpg
    door 1.jpg
    110.4 KB · Views: 71
OP
K

KMdef9

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2016
Messages
713
Location
The Motorcity
OP
K

KMdef9

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2016
Messages
713
Location
The Motorcity
bob15 said:
I have a Porter cable orbital and belt sanders. Won't buy any other brand.....they haven't let me down.
Click to expand...


Which models?

What one is your fav of the bunch for the type of work I'm looking to do?

The most common negative review on P&C is dust collection, and even with a shop vac it's annoying because the output is on the top of the tool. Thoughts?
 
S

saryon7

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 23, 2012
Messages
87
Just throwing out some info in case you are interested. The very best finish you can get with a power sander is going to come from a random orbital sander. Bar none! If you are just using an orbit sander, it isn't the same. If you are using a random orbit sander and still getting scratches, it comes down to operator error, or a piss poor sander. Ryobi for instance is one of those sanders that always has stray scratches. No matter what you do, scratches will always appear on a nice project. My porter cable and dewalts both give great results.
The operator error, is a very real thing. The number one spot where you will see this is where the grain changes direction- such as when a stile meets a rail. Here are the tips I can give. (Assuming it is a nice piece that you want to be perfect)
Spend the most amount of time with the coarsest grit. (typically 100, 150, 220. 400-600 sometimes) Just take your time and sand for a couple extra minutes over when you think you are done.

Don't skip grits. 60,80,100,150,220,300,400,600 (typically you will start at 100 and end at 220) Always sand a minute or two extra after you think you are done.

Check the piece in the light before you switch grits. If you catch a scratch area you missed go back and get it. Sometimes you will have to backtrack to the last grit. Angle the work piece so the light reflects the scratches and you can see them. You should have a piece of sandpaper handy in each grit too just in case you need to hit a spot where the grain changes directions. Always sand with the grain.

Once you are done, you can wipe it with denatured alcohol to double check that you didn't miss anything.

Obviously all this work is reserved for nice projects with expensive woods. But when you work on those types of projects there is no way around proper sanding.

A belt sander is great for FAST sanding. They are the kings of quick stock removal, but won't give anywhere need the finish you need for a nice quality piece like a humidor or cherry highboy.
 
D

dnschmidt

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2014
Messages
7,276
Location
Phoenix, AZ
When you need a Sawsall buy a Sawsall
When you need a worm drive Skilsaw buy a Model 77
When you need a belt sander you buy Porter-Cable.

It's the law.

3X21 is best for your usage. I'm got both this and the 4X24 and use this far more often.
 
E

Empty Pockets

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 21, 2015
Messages
4,942
Location
Rural New York
I have a Porter Cable #352 3x21 belt sander. It has served me well for years.

I also have a DeWalt DW421K random orbital sander.

Like Saryon7 said, the random orbital is the best for finishing wood. If, however you chose to use a belt sander, BE CAREFUL, as it will sand far more than you are going to want, before you realize it did
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
R

Roberts210

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 21, 2015
Messages
3,177
Location
Missouri
I got this Milwaukee on ebay for $60. 3X24. But from what you've said it sounds like you should NEVER use a belt sander on a table top. With your self-described skills with sanders, you will probably scratch/gouge it deeply, and getting the resulting scratches out will take forever. I've used belt sanders for many decades, but even with lots of use I still gouge an edge into the work from time to time.

So use a random orbital sander. Just move it around a lot and keep the pad flat to the table top.

Here's the Milwaukee I bought.
140902601.jpg


I like it a lot better than my PC worm drive:

164904493.jpg
 
C

Coach James

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2005
Messages
8,933
Location
Sandhills of North Carolina
I 2nd, 3rd whatever not using a belt sander on delicate work. I bought my PC 3x21 to remove contact cement and adhesive from concrete. For finer work, I have PC and Ridgid random orbital sanders and 2 or 3 palm sanders.

Coach
 
OP
K

KMdef9

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2016
Messages
713
Location
The Motorcity
Thanks for all the input guys!

I was using a random orbital sander, by DeWalt. The gouges/scratches are from the first step, as far as I can tell. Which was 60g. It put very deep swirls into, and I did my best to remove the previous grits swirls with the next. Maybe it's the media I'm using? (Diablo 5" discs) I have some time behind R/O, I use them on my car, so I know good pressure versus bad, keeping it flat, etc etc. I just need to learn the differences with wood versus clear coat, meaning how the polisher behaves/reacts.

No doubt it could be user error, I am trying to rule that out while also speeding my time up, as I need this done before kid #2 is born.

I also have no intention of using a belt sander as a finish sander. I plan I using it for the heavy grit, then switching back to the R/O then finishing the last by hand.
 
E

ez-duzit

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 24, 2013
Messages
5,099
Location
Marina del Rey
Of the several belt sanders I've gone through, this Bosch is my favorite. Best tracking adjustment, lays flat on its back for reshaping chisel and plane blades, lightweight, front handle removable for tight spots, highly controllable and easy to work with.

41NWywQDbXL.jpg
 
T

toolferone

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2016
Messages
93
Location
Raleigh, NC
saryon7 said:
Just throwing out some info in case you are interested. The very best finish you can get with a power sander is going to come from a random orbital sander. Bar none! If you are just using an orbit sander, it isn't the same. If you are using a random orbit sander and still getting scratches, it comes down to operator error, or a piss poor sander. Ryobi for instance is one of those sanders that always has stray scratches. No matter what you do, scratches will always appear on a nice project. My porter cable and dewalts both give great results.
The operator error, is a very real thing. The number one spot where you will see this is where the grain changes direction- such as when a stile meets a rail. Here are the tips I can give. (Assuming it is a nice piece that you want to be perfect)
Spend the most amount of time with the coarsest grit. (typically 100, 150, 220. 400-600 sometimes) Just take your time and sand for a couple extra minutes over when you think you are done.

Don't skip grits. 60,80,100,150,220,300,400,600 (typically you will start at 100 and end at 220) Always sand a minute or two extra after you think you are done.

Check the piece in the light before you switch grits. If you catch a scratch area you missed go back and get it. Sometimes you will have to backtrack to the last grit. Angle the work piece so the light reflects the scratches and you can see them. You should have a piece of sandpaper handy in each grit too just in case you need to hit a spot where the grain changes directions. Always sand with the grain.

Once you are done, you can wipe it with denatured alcohol to double check that you didn't miss anything.

Obviously all this work is reserved for nice projects with expensive woods. But when you work on those types of projects there is no way around proper sanding.

A belt sander is great for FAST sanding. They are the kings of quick stock removal, but won't give anywhere need the finish you need for a nice quality piece like a humidor or cherry highboy.
Click to expand...

What ^^^^^^ he said!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom