Need a diagram for outlets in parallel with switch at the end

[ckadams00]

Ok I am trying to install four single outlets for florescent ceiling lights in parrallel with the switch at the end of the run. I would prefer not to wire the lights in, just install the outlets so they can be replaced, etc. I can't seem to find a diagram for this install - anyone help?

 

[newbinga]

Doesn't seem complicated. Just run your hot/black through the switch and then to the outlets. I use the screws on the outlets, some may suggest a pigtail in each outlet box.

 

[newbinga]

Electrically all the outlets are parallel but install wise I like to think.of them as in series. Just wire to first outlet, then to second and so on

 

[Redwolf947]

To be clear what you have is power on one end of a circuit and a switch at the other end with outlets between?

 

[FordTruckWench]

Ok I am trying to install four single outlets for florescent ceiling lights in parrallel with the switch at the end of the run. I would prefer not to wire the lights in, just install the outlets so they can be replaced, etc. I can't seem to find a diagram for this install - anyone help?

The neutral can pick up each receptacle on the way. The hot however needs to go out to the switch and then come back.

I might suggest 14/2 (or whatever gauge you need) up to the first receptacle. From there, run pieces of 14/3 out to the switch. At each junction, the colors join like to like. Connect the receptacles to white and red. At the switch, connect it to black and red. You could also run 14/2 for the last segment, though someone here mentioned that recent codes require neutral be present at each switch.

Or you just start with a home run of 14/2 to the switch, and then a fully separate run to the receptacles.

 

[Mustang51js]

Use a duplex outlet so you don't have to make tails. Just run 14/2 up from switch and jump from each outlet, if you can't figure that out then should let someone do it that knows electric

 

[nkachur]

The neutral can pick up each receptacle on the way. The hot however needs to go out to the switch and then come back.

I might suggest 14/2 (or whatever gauge you need) up to the first receptacle. From there, run pieces of 14/3 out to the switch. At each junction, the colors join like to like. Connect the receptacles to white and red. At the switch, connect it to black and red. You could also run 14/2 for the last segment, though someone here mentioned that recent codes require neutral be present at each switch.

This is the answer you are looking for. Hook up the neutral all the way through. Black gets wire nutted all of the way to the switch (not hooked to the recepticle) hook the red to the switch and each receptcle on the way back.

Here is the diagram with only 3 lights instead of recepticles

 

[wyliesdiesels]

*/2 cond to first light. */3 cond through each light all the way to the switch. Current code requires neutral in the switch box so u can carry the neutral to the switch.

Color doesnt matter but for simplicity, u can use the blk as the constant hot and the red as the switched hot.

 

[ckadams00]

Thanks just was I was after!

 

[Mustang51js]

Why would you want a black feed in each outlet if your not going to use it,and just in case a 3 way switch setup won't work with that diagram. Is this unfinished room or you plan on piping. Just run a 14/2 from power to where you want the switch

 

[n8n]

The neutral can pick up each receptacle on the way. The hot however needs to go out to the switch and then come back.

I might suggest 14/2 (or whatever gauge you need) up to the first receptacle. From there, run pieces of 14/3 out to the switch. At each junction, the colors join like to like. Connect the receptacles to white and red. At the switch, connect it to black and red. You could also run 14/2 for the last segment, though someone here mentioned that recent codes require neutral be present at each switch.

Or you just start with a home run of 14/2 to the switch, and then a fully separate run to the receptacles.

yes, if this is going to be inspected, the switch leg will need to be 14/3 with the white capped.

 

[alfredeneuman]

All this posts referring to #14 assume the circuit is 15 Amp.
It just as well could be a 20 Amp circuit, and #12 would be required.

Really, in a garage or shop would be exempt from the neutral in the switch box reg by 2014 Code.... not so in the 2011


2014 NEC 404.2(C)

(C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. The grounded circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be provided at the location where switches control lighting loads that are supplied by a grounded general-purpose branch circuit for other than the following:

(1)....
(2)....
(3)....
(4) Where a switch does not serve a habitable room or bathroom
(5)....
(6)....
(7) Where a switch controls a receptacle load

 

[Wirepuller]

Just feed the switch and load to the lights. I use a switch leg where needed. Skip the 3 wire. It's more money and useless here.