FrankLee
Well-known member
Do any Deltas or Walker-Turners use standard bearings? Atlas and Craftsman use common off-the-shelf bearings.
Need a new drill press
- Thread starter bluedog225
- Start date
tool_scrounge
Well-known member
That Atlas has the optional 3rd pulley for really low speed drilling of hard metal. They are worth $100 on their own.Jeeze those are some beautiful machines.
Here’s the best I can find right now.
BD1
Well-known member
''You're kind of late to the party'' Time to get reading glasses for fine print.
Foot pedal was mentioned buy nothing about a two belt set up. That means a set of front pulleys, middle pulleys, and a rear set. A belt from front to middle and another from middle to rear. You can google for a photo.
Kscardsfan
Well-known member
Kscardsfan
Well-known member
I could see that. It seems like I either find a screaming deal, or they want NOS prices for clapped out junk.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Be patient. You can't be in a hurry when shopping for a quality used machine.
OP
bluedog225
Well-known member
Yeah. I ordered a foot switch and am going to try to revive the old girl. Will keep my eyes open.
whateg01
Well-known member
dogzbody1
Well-known member
You might try searching Facebook marketplace, I prefer CL but I'm seeing more and more on FB. I just posted a Delta DP 220 14" floor standing unit on CL on Long Island, 250 seems to be the going price for those here.
Hoorn
Well-known member
Can not go wrong with a 1950s Craftsman 100/150. I paid $90 for this one, restored it and gathered the accessories for it over time. Works fantastic, looks good, parts are abundant. With an MSA pulley you can get 200 RPMs for metal. The Delta DP 220 behind it is another reliable workhorse.
If you run out of patience looking for a used drill press, the Grizzly 14" are pretty good for the money. Granted, they are a bit over your budget with shipping costs, but the one I got for the weld shop has been ridden hard for over 4 years now without issue.
www.grizzly.com
www.grizzly.com
14" Heavy-Duty Benchtop Drill Press at Grizzly.com
<h1>G7943 14" Heavy-Duty Benchtop Drill Press</h1> <h2>An awarding-winning, quality-built, heavy-duty benchtop drill press.</h2> <p>Despite their small size, benchtop models offer workpiece capacities pretty close to full-size presses.</p> <p>The G7943 14" Heavy-Duty Benchtop Drill Press was...
14" Heavy-Duty Floor Drill Press at Grizzly.com
<h1>G7944 14" Heavy-Duty Floor Drill Press</h1> <h2>A quality-built, heavy-duty floor drill press.</h2> <p>The G7944 14" Heavy-Duty Floor Drill Press would be the mainstay in any shop with 12 speeds and powerful 3/4 HP motor.</p> <p>With a max drill capacity of 3/4" through steel, it can easily...
I agree with others to look at old iron.
I've bought through auctions, typically bidspotter and publicsurplus. As well as secondary markets, more FBMP that CL.
I picked up an old Delta Rockwell 17-600 for a couple hundred dollars on FBMP. It was 3-phase, so another $150 or so for a good quality VFD. VFDs are quite easy to wire up. Nothing tricky at all. And you get spot-on control of your spindle RPM. This drill press has been a workhorse for me for the past few years. Metal mostly, some wood. 3-phase scares off a lot of hobbyists, so buyers may not be knocking down the seller's door. Embracing VFDs can open up access to high-quality yet inexpensive iron that will last well beyond your years. Replacement bearings are available.
This is after degreasing to clean it up but before it was rewired:
If you do buy old iron, for transportation lower the table and head, and add blocking between the base and the table as well as between the table and the head. I already started unstrapping and pulling the base blocking before I took this shot.
I hope you find something good.
I've bought through auctions, typically bidspotter and publicsurplus. As well as secondary markets, more FBMP that CL.
I picked up an old Delta Rockwell 17-600 for a couple hundred dollars on FBMP. It was 3-phase, so another $150 or so for a good quality VFD. VFDs are quite easy to wire up. Nothing tricky at all. And you get spot-on control of your spindle RPM. This drill press has been a workhorse for me for the past few years. Metal mostly, some wood. 3-phase scares off a lot of hobbyists, so buyers may not be knocking down the seller's door. Embracing VFDs can open up access to high-quality yet inexpensive iron that will last well beyond your years. Replacement bearings are available.
This is after degreasing to clean it up but before it was rewired:
If you do buy old iron, for transportation lower the table and head, and add blocking between the base and the table as well as between the table and the head. I already started unstrapping and pulling the base blocking before I took this shot.
I hope you find something good.
thool
Well-known member
Foot switch is a game changer for a DP.
Anyone know anything about a Guardian Power 16 speed 3/4 HP
FDM-16 (GP)
Looks to be in decent shape.
About what should I offer.
And any quick tests for big problems.
I am guessing the worst thing would be a worn spindle bearing, and they have to be fairly standard.
Looks fairly clean
FDM-16 (GP)
Looks to be in decent shape.
About what should I offer.
And any quick tests for big problems.
I am guessing the worst thing would be a worn spindle bearing, and they have to be fairly standard.
Looks fairly clean
whateg01
Well-known member
First, seems like you ought to start your own thread instead of highjacking another.
Second, there's nothing particularly special about it. The one I just sold for $150 was gone the day I listed it. Location matters though, and you might have to pay more. Mine was a 13", IIRC, but maybe it was 12. It was also a 12-speed.
They are a common design. Guardian Power was made in Taiwan, so they do seem to be better than the Chinese stuff. But they still weren't perfect. I had to disassemble the head to install a new light socket. The original was a flimsy design on a flimsier piece of sheetmetal strap, so it just kind of hangs in the opening. Check for the arc of shame under the plywood. On mine, the table would spin no matter how tight I thought I was cranking the cinch bolt down. I ended up having to shim it so it would lock. Make sure the table lift works smoothly. You can check for runout in the chuck. If you want to knock the arbor out of the spindle, you could check runout in the spindle. If there is anything wrong there, though, I would expect it to be in the arbor, which is easy and cheap to replace. See if the idler pulley in the middle moves smoothly and that the motor tensioning works smoothly, or as smoothly as it can. Mine would never tighten very well, so I always ended up sticking a prybar under the motor to push it out and tension the belt. The idler arm sits in a hole in the top of the casting and mine was a little bit wallered out, but still worked. Still might be a bargaining thing.
Picked it up. ($150)
Need to do a little cleaning but in generally good shape.
The one thing that needs to be "fixed" is one of the handles on the quill is loose.
The threads are loose form being pulled.
I am thinking the best quick fix is to drill it out and tap for a threaded insert to match the original handle thread,, but looking for suggestions from those that know more than me. (Most of you)
Maybe the part is still available or a suitable replacement exists.
Need to do a little cleaning but in generally good shape.
The one thing that needs to be "fixed" is one of the handles on the quill is loose.
The threads are loose form being pulled.
I am thinking the best quick fix is to drill it out and tap for a threaded insert to match the original handle thread,, but looking for suggestions from those that know more than me. (Most of you)
Maybe the part is still available or a suitable replacement exists.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
It is beyond that.
Looks like as the hole opened, the handle was tightened to the point the un threaded part of the shaft started passing into the threaded hole.
It came with a mortise attachment, so I am guessing that maybe more than normal force might have been applied.
Wondering if I can reindex the hub so the two good handles are positioned for most use?
Looks like as the hole opened, the handle was tightened to the point the un threaded part of the shaft started passing into the threaded hole.
It came with a mortise attachment, so I am guessing that maybe more than normal force might have been applied.
Wondering if I can reindex the hub so the two good handles are positioned for most use?
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Weld up the hole and re-tap it.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
They are not standard bearings. However replacements can be made with standard bearings. I don't remember the specifics because I worked from the originals but I took some 6200 series bearings, and made metal sleeves for the ID to adapt for the spindle and locktite them in place with 620.
Yes, A welder is on my list, but don't have one yet.
Looking at a diagram for a similar drill press it looks like reindexing the part will not work.
As for welding, my guess is I will need the drill press to drill the new hole.
P.S. Is there anything wrong with the threaded insert idea?
Looking at a diagram for a similar drill press it looks like reindexing the part will not work.
As for welding, my guess is I will need the drill press to drill the new hole.
P.S. Is there anything wrong with the threaded insert idea?
ez-duzit
Well-known member
You don't need a welder to get someone to weld up 1 hole.
And then pay him to drill because my drill press will be taken apart.
Will have to check, because looking at the wear, it is either aluminum, or it is pot metal.
Neither of which like welding.
So?????? Any issue with the insert?
EDIT:
I see a feed wheel kit on Amazon, but will need to look at the drill press to see if it will fit.
Last edited:
I think I found the root of the problem.
The handles are threaded such that if you over tighten them the unthreaded shaft feeds into the threads.
That combined with the part is hollow allows the above problem to allow the handle shaft to eventually bypass all the threads.
I can reindex the part, so my plan is to use thread locker on the two good handles, placing them in the position to be used most and use JB Weld on the third handle.
If it fails again I can deal with it at that time.
The handles are threaded such that if you over tighten them the unthreaded shaft feeds into the threads.
That combined with the part is hollow allows the above problem to allow the handle shaft to eventually bypass all the threads.
I can reindex the part, so my plan is to use thread locker on the two good handles, placing them in the position to be used most and use JB Weld on the third handle.
If it fails again I can deal with it at that time.
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
whitesco
Well-known member
I just bought (as in it's not even fully assembled yet) a Wen 12" benchtop drill press. I agonized over that or an older Craftsman or Delta, etc. and I will probably buy one of those at some point but I need a functional one now to do some gunsmithing and the Wen reviews are as good as any homeowner grade new machines. It arrived at about the same time as pneumonia did so I've only just started assembling it. Haven't had a chance to check runout and all.
Is that the 5 speed or the variable speed?
I was looking at the variable speed model if I didn't find a used one I liked. (But I really wanted a floor not bench model.)
The saga continues, I cleaned everything up and figured I would use thread locker on the two good arms.
After I got it together, I realized that there was just too much play for thread locker to do its job.
Since I am JB-Welding the bad arm, I am probably just going to do the same for the other two.
Plan is to not clean the thread locker off the threads on the arms, then run a coat of JB on the threads in the hub and screw in the arms, then let cure overnight.
The JB should take up any slack, and with some luck, should I need to remove an arm, the thread locker will act liek mode-release and let me unthread the rod.
Wish me luck.