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Need a new oil can

2ndGearRubber

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Mar 24, 2014
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Pittsburgh
So apparently I've dropped my oil can I use for cutting fluid one too many times as the lid has cracked and it hardly works. Thus I'm in the market for a new one. I had the ubiquitous yellow can with black top, china special, lid is plastic. I throw a magnet in the bottom to limit knocking it over, and fill with tap magic.




Goldenrod 600 holds a little less than the old yellow 8oz model. But I refill less than once a year, so that's not a big deal. I don't want leaks, I want quality. Any other options I'm missing?
 
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Tools4Me

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Jun 22, 2021
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OP, you mentioned that you will be filling your pump with Tap Magic. I would skip the Reilang ones if you specifically use Tap Magic Pro Tap cutting fluid. According to the images and their online specs, Reilang uses quite a bit of brass in their pump mechanism and the output tube/spout itself is made of brass. I'm not sure about the other Tap Magic formulations out there, but I use Tap Magic Pro Tap quite a bit and if it is left touching anything brass, you will end up with thick green corrosion on the surface of the brass within several days. That green corrosion can gum up or clog things like the pump extension tube if the tube itself is made of brass.

The Goldenrod is probably a great option, because parts like the output tube and tip don't appear to be made of brass, and their website specs mention the pump mechanism being made from die-cast zinc.

In general, the only complaint I have with well made pump oilers is the spout tip angle. If the spout tip itself is oriented with a slight downward tilt at the end or if it is oriented horizontally, every time you finish pumping, oil from inside the tube will continue to slowly drip out the tip over the next minute or two, and it will get onto the countertop or whatever else is near the pump oiler. I eliminated this issue with my oiler by putting a secondary bend into my pump oiler tube (I used a simple brake line bender), so the spout tip always has an upward tilt when the pump oiler is sitting on a flat surface. My added bend is circled in red in the attached image.

Now all I have to do is quickly wipe the outside of the tip after each use, and any oil remaining in the tube either stays in the tube or slowly drains back into the reservoir so there's no longer any drips on the countertop a couple minutes later.

As a side note, if you want to source your pump through Amazon, the larger 10oz 625 model ($17.71 shipped) is currently cheaper than the 6oz pump you originally linked to.

 

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dutchgray

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Sep 28, 2014
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Dorset. England.
I like Reilang oil cans but for the OP's application I would go for something cheaper.
I have several Goldenrod cans, they all work well but the majority of the ones with a crimped bottom leak from there.

In the UK we always had Wesco oil cans, they were pretty cheap and used plastic pumps apart from the really old ones, so often good for chemicals that were not just oil. I don't know if they are still UK made or China now.
 

Prospecter

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May 16, 2015
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Maine
Pretty much anything containing oil in my shop, whether oiler, aerosol oiler, or prepackaged oil (3in1, Kroil, etc.) gets oily and drips. I just put a couple layers of paper towel, or Epsteins packing paper on a cookie sheet, and keep all my oilers on that.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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Pretty much anything containing oil in my shop, whether oiler, aerosol oiler, or prepackaged oil (3in1, Kroil, etc.) gets oily and drips. I just put a couple layers of paper towel, or Epsteins packing paper on a cookie sheet, and keep all my oilers on that.

I got a few aluminum paint trays and buckets for this purpose. Looks like my initial choice was a good one.
 

Shop-hound

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Nov 1, 2019
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Calgary, AB
I’ve got 2 of the Goldenrod oiler flexible spout. 1 with cutting oil/magic tap and the other with way oil for the lathe. No issues. The cheapie ones can be a leaky nightmare. Good choice
 

jensputzier

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Leichlingen (near Wuppertal and Remscheid), German

johninct

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Dec 21, 2010
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I have always had bad luck with oil cans. People have given me high end working oil cans and the minute I use it it stops working. The only one that works for me is from Harbor freight.
 
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gahrajmahal

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Dec 12, 2008
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Cincinnati, Ohio
The last few antique shows I’ve been to (Columbus Ohio and Burlington Kentucky) I’ve had to restrain myself from buying a half dozen or so beautiful restored antique oil cans. I have two myself and that seems to be enough. The rest of my oily treatments come in spray cans.
 

Steve_P

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Sep 15, 2010
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I have at least 4 of the Goldenrods in three varieties. None of them leak, knock on wood...
 

darkzero

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Oct 20, 2011
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SoCal
I've got two Goldenrods from Dutton-Laison, guess I've been lucky too cause neither one of them leak, not from the bottom seam anyway, more on that later. I've always wanted a Reilang or two but could never justify the cost. I shoulda bought one when Mcmaster used to sell em.

I've heard someone say before using them, to put Loctite/retaining compound/anaerobic adhesive down into the seam inside to prevent leaks. Well anaerobic adhesive requires lack of oxygen to cure. Even if you cap the top, there's still air in the can, so I don't understand how that works.

On my larger Golden Rod I had a flexible spout on it. Never thought it was the cause but it leaked somewhere somehow causing oil to collect at the base of the can. Purchased a replacement & the same thing. Maybe cause on my larger can it screws in vertically? I replaced the spout with my own custom bent rigid one & no more leaking.
20190804_195846.jpg

I also use those "high pressure" oilers but the cheap ones with a clear plastic can. They never leak & work much better for me for ball oilers. Mine are from HF which they don't sell anymore but can get them elsewhere. I've had a few of the metal can versions & they all leaked on me.
20200317_230549.jpg

But I only keep way oil on my Goldenrods. They pump out way too much cutting fluid for my needs. For what I do I don't see a need for using so much cutting fluid and even just a light pump at a time is too wasteful for me. I use Luer Lock bottle for almost all my cutting fluids & I use these bottles for many other fluids too. Not for everyone but I prefer it more than anything else I've tried.
20220627_154446.jpg
 

Nutria

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Jun 23, 2015
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Eastern Sierra
The lever cans always end up leaking for me, they take a few squeezes to get the oil going, and then they dispense too much. I mostly go with a bunch of Eagle/Gem thumb oilers-- they don't leak (much), the oil is pretty much instantaneous, and I can dispense it drop by drop. I do have some Goldenrod levers for really hard to reach places.

IMG_2876.JPG
 
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RTM

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May 13, 2019
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SF Bay Area
Has anyone tried this stuff to stop oil cans from leaking?


I found it on a Dietz lantern forum, to fix leaky fuel tanks, seems like if it works for one, it should work for the other. Got a couple of leaky lanterns that I use for citronella in the summer, they are cheap, so won't feel bad if it fails. But I have a 1940s vintage Dietz that the others are giving themselves up as guinea pigs.
 

d42jeep

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The lever cans always end up leaking for me, they take a few squeezes to get the oil going, and then they dispense too much. I mostly go with a bunch of Eagle/Gem thumb oilers-- they don't leak (much), the oil is pretty much instantaneous, and I can dispense it drop by drop. I do have some Goldenrod levers for really hard to reach places.

IMG_2876.JPG
If your Eagle or Gem oilers are 4” across the bottoms and look like your two larger ones they are likely WW2 correct and one came in every WW2 Jeep and GMTK and assorted other vehicles and sets.IMG_7118.jpegIMG_7445.jpegIMG_7442.jpeg
-Don
 

Nutria

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Don, the large can in the photo is 4.5" OD and the medium-sized one is 3.75". But I have another one two that I need to check. Interesting, thanks.
 

WisJim

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Dec 20, 2010
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Menomonie, WI
I think that all my oil cans came from garage sales or odd lots at auctions, and I never paid more than a dollar or two for any of them. It would be hard for me to justify a new oil can for $15 to $50.
 

Steve_P

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I think that all my oil cans came from garage sales or odd lots at auctions, and I never paid more than a dollar or two for any of them. It would be hard for me to justify a new oil can for $15 to $50.

The smaller/typical size Goldenrod cans are not expensive; I personally consider them a bargain for a Mi USA product. The one below is probably the most common size people use and is $8; the 10 oz is $17 from HJE.

If you like going to yard sales, that's fine, I get it, it's a hobby for many people; but it's not something I want to do with my time. If I save $15 by buying a used oil can, or whatever, at a yard sale, and spend even an hour to find it, it's not worth it for me; my time is more valuable than $15/hr, that's fast-food wages here, plus I'd spend $5+ on gas. YMMV. Yes, I understand the thrill for some of finding a bargain. But if people actually calculated time spent and gas cost, I'm betting a lot of yard sale supposed bargains aren't actually bargains; rather, it's just a hobby that can yield an occasional great deal; and people love to advertise their great deals, but they never say how much time and gas was invested to save that $15. Anyway, I won't get into a debate on yard sales here as that's OT.

 

danielbuck

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Apr 15, 2014
Messages
926
as much as I like the looks and function of the golden rod oil cans, I have stopped using them because they leak. Maybe I've had bad luck, but I Have 2 old ones and 2 new ones, and they all leak. I found some other brand (will have to check) that doesn't have a crimped bottom, and it doesn't leak.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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Far NE Oregon
Howdy, all.

I, too, need a new oiler can for my drilling/tapping/cutting fluids.

I've been using this old Golden Rod for about a decade:

53546723424_d2f9e5d826_b.jpg

It's served me well, and it was used when I bought it at a garage sale. No idea how old it is.

Mostly, I like it. Pump works fine, never sprung a leak, but... those threads. Those big, stupid round rolled threads. It's almost impossible to get the top on without cross-threading it, and once cross-threaded, well, it'll never seal again. Drop it, and the top pops right off--oil clean-up time!

So I want something similar, but with cut threads that a clumsy aging Hippie can easily start and a top that stays on and seals.

Is that too much to ask? That's why I ask you all.

TIA--
 

Beerhippie

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After checking prices on the Reilangs--look wonderful, but not $50 worth of wonderful--I picked up a rigid-spout Goldenrod on my last trip to the local junque shoppe. Free, and it just needed the leather gasket replaced. I made one from Viton sheet ant it works just fine--no leaks. It is a little enthusiastic on the squirt--a vigorous pull of the trigger and it shoots oil all the way across the shop.
 

cdoublejj

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Apr 11, 2022
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MO
i didn't know viton was made in a sheet or think to look for such a thing. that seems handy for auto stuff too.
 

mikegt4

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Sep 12, 2005
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sw ohio
i didn't know viton was made in a sheet or think to look for such a thing. that seems handy for auto stuff too.
McMaster-Carr has Viton fluoroelastomer rubber sheet under "raw materials". Put "Viton sheet" in the search box and it will take you right to it.
 

isb cornbinder

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Nov 3, 2010
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Location
Pacific South West, BC, Canada
I have a bunch of oilcans from a collection offered on Craigslist. I do not remember where they are. They are in a big box, somewhere.
I made a no drip oil container. I epoxied a microwave magnet to the bottom. The cover is held in place with 2, 4/40 socket head fasteners.
The piston is out of a WT 400 transmission hydraulic retarder.
 

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