need a quick fix

[billconner]

I erred exactly in wrong place in locating conduit for feeding panel, directly where a stud needs to go. Can't move stud because of window, though I can sister it for a foot or so. Conduit is buried in cement. Picture shows a block where stud should be. I'm counting on 2 - no. 2s for 90 amp feed and using conduit for ground - all approved by electrical inspector - but the rules out 1" conduit bodies it seems. All of these presume cutting a long slot in stud.

1. Cut, thread in place or use compression fitting, and add 2 - 45° bends to panel (right side of stud). (Total of 315 degrees, so ok)

2. Cut, thread in place or use compression fitting, and offset with 2 - 45° bends or offset with flex. (Can I use flex for ground if only a foot or two? Thought there was a limit of 6'??? )

3. Cut, adapt to 1 1/4", and use a conduit body (pulling elbow) and then into side of panel or another elbow. Conduit body would be centered in stud with cover accessible from left.

4. Try to bend rigid conduit in place and offset - probably one 45 and add a 45.

5. Just thought cut, transition to EMT with compression fitting, and offset bend EMT.

6. Other?

More options if I reduce to 60 or 50 amps and run a ground conductor, but would like to see if I can keep the 3 no. 2s.

 

[Zeke]

Pics help but there is a framing solution of some sort. It you have to offset a stud, jack or trimmer to get this to the right place, you CAN put a header UNDER the window. You can drill through a header if you provide strapping if you exceed 60%.

 

[billconner]

Sorry - had it ready and forgot to attach.

 

[mike93lx]

You can't make the window opening larger and then block it in to fit?

 

[billconner]

Pics help but there is a framing solution of some sort. It you have to offset a stud, jack or trimmer to get this to the right place, you CAN put a header UNDER the window. You can drill through a header if you provide strapping if you exceed 60%.

I could frame around it but as conduit is, it would be through the window sill, so still has to be shorter. Not end of day but framing will remain exposed - no insulation or interior wall covering - so was hoping to minimize framing irregularities.

 

[billconner]

Better picture mocked up. Window sits on that sill. The window layout - 19 windows on 48" centers on 3 of 4 walls - is a priority. I just need to get the feeder a little to the left (in this photo) and the panel (bottom) should be no higher than window sill (about 53" aff), was planned at 50". Leaning towards no. 2.

Using the rough sawn, it's cross sectional area is double a 2x4, so room for a lot of "hole", plus I can reinforce or sister it.

Using barn sash, so the stud is the window jamb.

 

[Jim greengo]

Can you bring the pipe up outside of building and lb it into the panel?
Or maybe 2 45s to roll it lower into the stud space instead of a couple of lb's?

 

[Zeke]

Incomplete still. Are we looking at 2 king studs, no jacks or header? If so, sister another king and carry on. With the right hardware you could remove that half of king and flip in flat to the wall (using a full size peice) and run a 2nd to make a 'L' for stability. I wouldn't lose 10 minutes of product for something like this, Have you seen what plumbers of to framing? This is pee wee league.

 

[billconner]

Incomplete still. Are we looking at 2 king studs, no jacks or header? If so, sister another king and carry on. With the right hardware you could remove that half of king and flip in flat to the wall (using a full size peice) and run a 2nd to make a 'L' for stability. I wouldn't lose 10 minutes of product for something like this, Have you seen what plumbers of to framing? This is pee wee league.

But how do I shift feed to left? I can solve the framing. Cut it and use compression fitting? And is a foot or two of flex acceptable for ground?

 

[billconner]

OK - flex is only good for ground if 6' or less and only up to 20 amps, so sol on that. Compression fitting and two 45s seem best option, or find someone to bend a simpler offset. I wish I could find a manual threader so I didn't have to use a compression fitting.

 

[alfredeneuman]

How many degrees of bend does the rigid have beneath the slab to the next pull point?

 

[billconner]

It's in the first post but 2 90s and 1 45 - 225. Finding some one to bend it is the trick.

 

[Bert_]

Just slide a bigger piece of pipe over it and use it like a big lever to bend the conduit. Got to be a little careful not to overdo it since you could kink it, but it looks like we're only talking about a few inches.

Other possibility is to cut it off use a threadless connector.

 

[sparky 1971]

I would cut it off 6" above the concrete and put a threadless set screw connector on. Screw a rigid coupling onto that, and an EMT set screw connector into the rigid coupling. Then bend an offset using 30° bends in EMT. That's easier said than done though since I have a bender. 30° elbows are available and I would think that any decent supply house carries them.


I take back my statement about supply houses carrying 30° elbows. The one I frequent the most doesn't stock them but they are available to order. 45° seems to be pretty popular though as they have three different brands in stock.

 

[billconner]

A good plan sparky. Thank you and others who have offered help.

If I can find someone to bend a piece of rigid into a 3 to 6" offset, I'll do that. Otherwise I'll do the EMT version you suggest.

The electrical supply house - not a quarter mile away - seems to be the warehouse and shop for one of the larger electrical contractors in the area. Interesting business model. They cut an thread any conduit I buy there, so hoping they'll bend as well.

 

[alfredeneuman]

2 - no. 2s for 90 amp feed

Is this panel for 240V only?

 

[billconner]

Is this panel for 240V only?

Typo - yes 240 - 3 - no. 2s. I was planning on 60 amp and no. 4s but 3 no. 2s just fit in 1" rigid - using conduit for ground and all cleared with inspector - and almost no difference in cost, and no 2 is available, no. 4 is not locally.

 

[eejack]

They make a bender called a hickey specifically for rigid conduit. You could bend that over about 30 degrees, spin a coupling on it, then spin on a factory 30 degree rigid fitting if you really want to go rigid the whole way.

Personally I would go with the emt suggestion above, cut it down, threadless connector ( they actually do make a threadless coupling from rigid to emt as well ) and drop an offset on it.

You could just walk into a home depot and bend the offset right in the store - done that in a pinch when on the road.

 

[billconner]

You're probably right but I have a piece of rigid leftover and if I can get it bent I to an offset at my supply place for no cost I'll use that with a compression - threadless - coupling. Maybe I'll get real lucky and get it to fit into a k.o. in panel. Otherwise I'll transition to EMT as suggested.

Rigid is visually a little more appealing to my eye. Trying to justify cost if rigid for all wiring in garage.

Still haven't dealt with difficulty of snaking SER 2-2-2-4 through basement and existing garage attic (to a junction box above grade, where conduit starts.)

 

[Zeke]

I thought you were just going to LB into the panel rather that go to a bunch of trouble.

 

[billconner]

I thought you were just going to LB into the panel rather that go to a bunch of trouble.

I started thinking that way but 1" LBs are maxed out a 3 - no 4s, and I am wanting 3 - no. 2s.

The plan was for the pipe that is there to just go into bottom of panel. So a several inch offset is what I'm after. So rigid if I can get it made or else EMT and buy pre bent or get that made or buy a 1" bender.

 

[Norcal]

Can you bring the pipe up outside of building and lb it into the panel?
Or maybe 2 45s to roll it lower into the stud space instead of a couple of lb's?

Intercepting the conduit outside & entering the panel through the back of the panel with a LB might be the easiest, this is a situation where steel conduit is a pain in the azz, & where not planning the stud layout & placing the conduit stub accordingly bites hard, but if we were perfect, walking on water would be no problem.

 

[billconner]

Easiest perhaps but not pretty. I think offset can work - just haven't confirmed which parts and materials.

PS: plus having to up size to 1 1/4" for LB that will take 3 no. 2s since the 1" won't.