Need Adhesive Solution for UHMW

[mobiledynamics]

I plan to line the chute of my Brand New Snowblower with UHMW material....

I don't want to rivet it in and add a extra source of corrosion....
I was considering about just plain jane vinyl caulk instead of plastic epoxy.
Here's my reasoning why

- I will lay a decent bead all around the perimeter edge as I want to edges to be sealed and not let snow/water hang out between the ~sandwich~
- Caulk is fairly easy to remove given enough force. If I don't like how it works in the chute, it's a fairly easy removal that's non-destructive to the paint/powdercoated surface of the brand new snowblower.

What are you thoughts ?

 

[matt_i]

Button head or flat head screws. Coat liberally with anti-seize at assembly.

 

[rlitman]

Neither will stick at all.

I have had only one source of success in gluing UHMW, and it was for limited situations at best. Using hot melt glue, AND heating the UHMW to nearly the melting point so they would fuse (hot melt glue doesn't stick worth a damn to cold UHMW). Hot melt glue is a lower temperature thermoplastic than UHMW, so it is sort of like plastic soldering/brazing (UHMW is certainly weldable too). But that procedure is useless here.

I have a few ideas for you though.

First, a steel chute is the best. You just want to limit sticking. So spray it with a non-stick coating. You could use silicone spray, or Fluid Film for example (non-stick cooking spray is only non-stick for a short time, before the edible oils go rancid, and then it becomes stickier than ever).

If you insist on adhering UHMW to the steel, then a better idea would be to use UHMW tape. It comes in many widths you could cut to fit. Here is a 6" wide example:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00823JD0A/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[icenfire01]

Aluminum rivets will prevent your rusting problems.

 

[theoldwizard1]

King Starboard is a very popular UHMW used in the marine industry. Almost NOTHING will stick to it. Here is what they have to say Using adhesive with King StarBoard

Stainless button/flat head machine (through) screws or rivets are good alternatives it you have access the the back side of the connection. Use large head rivets and backing washers for both screws and rivets.

Another alternative is pocket screws. Use more screws than normal as they heavy loads/vibration can cause these screws to back/pull out.

 

[404]

I did mine with brass toilet bolts and stainless steel nylock nuts.

First install a plain nut all the way to the head of the toilet bolt.

Put threaded part of toilet bolt into chuck of drill press.

Spin.

With file, remove threads in green area. This no thread zone will be used to grip the bolt so it does not turn when tightening the nylock nut later on.

Cut at magenta line to needed length. This also removes the threads damaged from gripping by the drill press chuck.

Remove the plain nut. This will help clean the thread at the transition where it was filed off. Work the nut back forth in this area.



Using spare bolt, heat the blue circled head and melt a counter bore into the plastic so the installed head will be flush.

I used a 55 gallon poly drum for my material, so I had enough thickness to do this. Free from the car wash.

I painted the area under the plastic with melted wax, and then went back with a heat gun and remelted the wax so it flowed everywhere.

I only did the area around the impeller fan. Closed up the gap and reduced HP loss due to snow dragging in the fan. Started doing the rubber sheet mod but it was a pain in the ***.

Did not get around to doing the chute.

 

[e36jon]

I agree with the mechanical fastener advice above.

The only adhesive solution I have had any success with was 3M VHB tape tailored specifically to 'low surface energy' materials like UHMH. If you can follow all of their surface prep and clamping instructions it WILL stay stuck! That said, I don't see how it could be done inside a chute. Also not sure about really low temps with the stuff...

 

[Voi]

I plan to line the chute of my Brand New Snowblower with UHMW material....

I have heard good things about the DP-8005 2K adhesive for bonding UHMW to itself but not for the application you're describing.

The bond is said to be stronger than VHB tape, for what it is worth. But last time I read up on it was many years ago so maybe the VHB has caught up.

Also look into flame treating the surface where the DP-8005 or VHB will go.

3M used to have a chart on their website that recommended what product to use to bond certain materials together.

 

[A_Pmech]

As of my last research, there are no adhesives commercially available for UHMW.

 

[404]

Keep in mind that the metal of the snowblower, and the plastic liner have very different coefficients of thermal expansion. The range of temps the snowblower works in is large. As a result, any attachment method will be under load just from ambient temperatures.

 

[rlitman]

Aluminum rivets will prevent your rusting problems.

As in, the RIVETS wont rust. But he's now drilled holes in his powder coated steel chute, and you will get rust where the powder coating has been perforated (unless you take the time to prime and coat every hole before riveting).

Keep in mind that the metal of the snowblower, and the plastic liner have very different coefficients of thermal expansion. The range of temps the snowblower works in is large. As a result, any attachment method will be under load just from ambient temperatures.

That wouldn't be an issue if you used tape like I suggested above. It's so thin that the UHMW will simply be forced to give.

 

[rlitman]

As of my last research, there are no adhesives commercially available for UHMW.

Actually, the above statement about low surface energy rated VHB is correct. It does exist.
But I would expect a high rate of failure when exposed to impact shock at freezing temperatures.

Also, low surface energy VHB is hard to come by AND it probably wouldn't hold too well to the powder coat on the steel either. That's the catch. So even if you can bond to the UHMW, you'll have a hard time bonding it to anything other than more UHMW (or polypropylene perhaps).

 

[Keel]

why not send it out and have it coated,? Teflon, or other.. and be done with it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I have never tried this product but it is recommended elsewhere on the 'net.

Scotch-Weld Structural Plastic Adhesive DP8005 Translucent or Black

Despite what 3M's instructions say, I would follow what in in THIS VIDEO.

Plastic welding using the appropriate tool. with thin pieces of the same material, does work.