To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Need advice for my project

alexlab79

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2014
Messages
6
Location
Near Quebec city
hello , first my english is not very good, i speak in french.

I need advice for make a good choice for my futur garage. I have plan to build this summer a 22x28 garage. because 22x28? max size for me my location(town rules)
fast draw of my project:
i have to deceide between 2 options
8pff.jpg

or
10pffwr.jpg


i want know your opinion for 2nd floor.
i want keep it simple
i have 2 option
i-joist 22' 11 1/4 oc16
floorijoist.jpg

or 2 layer of 9 1/4LVL + spf lumber(2X10)
floorlvl.jpg


in theory the 11 1/4 i-joist is for max 19.2' span....but if i reinforce a little bit..

all comment are highly appreciated!

thanks
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

smokey0810

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 29, 2013
Messages
3,056
Location
Canyon, Texas
Welcome to the forum! What are your plans for the garage? How much storage are you needing? Are you going to make the second floor area open, use it for storage? Looks like pretty good plans so far.
 
OP
A

alexlab79

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2014
Messages
6
Location
Near Quebec city
Thanks, the first floor is for mecanic, it's one of my hobby(i dream of car lift but i am not alone ), the second floor will be used in part for local music(music instrument), electronic/informatique workshop and for storage.

i have already sheed 12x16 for woodworking and garden tool.
thanks for advice
 

rsanter

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2007
Messages
18,492
Location
visalia ca
10ft ceiling if it is a working shop
8ft is for a garage to park in

If,you do the second flooring plan. Use a steel I beam across the garage and oversize it so you can use it to lift things

Bob
 

Jlbc212

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 7, 2013
Messages
1,530
Location
Northeast MA
I'm not a structural engineer nor an architect, so take this for what it's worth. The roof rafters should tie in with the garage ceiling joists to prevent them from pushing outward under the weight of a snow load and/or high speed wind. i would look into a gambrel (barn style) roof or adding a dormer or partial dormer to one side. In my opinion, either would be a stronger design for what you are trying to achieve.
 

MushCreek

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2015
Messages
9,747
Location
Upstate South Carolina
Look at barnplans.com for ideas on a gambrel roof design. It will give you more room in the loft. As for first floor height, you need more than 8' for most residential overhead doors.

Jack is right; as drawn, you would need a structural ridge beam to support your roof. Otherwise, you need members in the bottom third of your rafters to prevent the roof from spreading under load.
 

matt_i

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,723
Location
SE Michigan
Can you lower the pitch (angle) of the roof to be a little lower and then use roof trusses? This would be more like how a house is built. And stronger than the rafter design. It looks like maybe 10:12 pitch (rise:run) I wonder if you can get down to 5:12 or 6:12.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Cyberbear

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 23, 2013
Messages
1,524
Location
California
I built a similar structure years ago and opted to break the span of the floor joists with a steel I-beam below and a heavy over sized ridge beam to carry half the roof load, thus allowing a clear span above without needing any type of rafter ties or ceiling joists. The upper walls and roof were supported on the outside walls down to an over size two story footing with double the steel. I lived then in an earth quake area and the structure easily withstood a major quake a short time later. Be sure to also use quality strength concrete and plenty of re-bar, not wire mesh.
 

vilatiywindowstrong

New member
Joined
Jan 24, 2016
Messages
1
I would suggest you follow the 2nd image sketch. You may also want to include all the side views of your sketch: Front view, side view and top view.
 

brownbagg

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 20, 2006
Messages
5,208
car lift you need every bit of 12'6", that clearence from ceiling lights, fans etc.
 

Dirtydan69

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 8, 2015
Messages
847
Location
San Tan Valley, AZ
I'm not a structural engineer nor an architect, so take this for what it's worth. The roof rafters should tie in with the garage ceiling joists to prevent them from pushing outward under the weight of a snow load and/or high speed wind. i would look into a gambrel (barn style) roof or adding a dormer or partial dormer to one side. In my opinion, either would be a stronger design for what you are trying to achieve.

Although it may break up the space some one could use collar ties every 4 feet to accomplish the same thing. That is is stick framing. Trusses won't matter.
 
OP
A

alexlab79

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2014
Messages
6
Location
Near Quebec city
Thanks to all for reply, unfortunaly, barn style(gambrel) is not allowed in my town.
Metal beam is not an option , lack of distributor near me.

My first drawing don't show it , but i want use oversize rafter beam.
I will brace the 2nd floor with wall showed on my drawing.

10pffwrfw.jpg


for the 2nd floor, someone used lvl for center beam?
someone used i-joist 11 1/4 for 22' span whitout other brace or beam?
thanks
 
OP
A

alexlab79

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2014
Messages
6
Location
Near Quebec city
someone used i-joist 11 1/4 for 22' span whit or whitout brace for reinforcement.
for roof i will use collar ties, rafter beam supported a each side and brace for the second floor wall
any advice
 

MushCreek

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2015
Messages
9,747
Location
Upstate South Carolina
A TJI 360 in 11-7/8 will span 22' on 12" centers, or you could go to a heavier 560 series and go 16" centers. It might feel a little bouncy at that span, though. I got that information right off of their website. Any dealer who carries them will have this information.

My house is TJI-360 X 11-7/8, 16" centers, and 16' long, coming off of a center LVL. The floor is very solid.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom