need advice how to make this gathering table

[BTL-A4]

I would like to make a gathering table. My concern is that the legs will need some sort of bracing. Any ideas? Support members lower down will not work, as we need to push in chairs. I could use some metal corner braces right under the table top, but what about farther down? I've looked for ideas and can't seem to find anything that I think will work. Do I even need any more bracing?

The legs are about 3" x 3" x 36". I will be using mortise and tenon joinery. The wood is reclaimed pallet wood. It's not very soft, though; it seems like oak, but it's hard to tell. It came with machinery that was bought for a college machine shop.

 

[DGersic]

Ive seen several tables with similar design, all done with the legs screwed in to the corner like this.



The black boards are the vertical ones under your table top.

The blue leg fits in to the gap between the two side boards.

Behind it, there is a 45* brace in red. Purple shows the large screw holding the leg in place.

It‘s not unbreakable, but it’s pretty strong.

 

[jar944]

How tall is the apron? A 3" - 4" apron should shouldn't need corner blocks if it's glued together mortise and tenon construction.

 

[jblnut]

Ive seen several tables with similar design, all done with the legs screwed in to the corner like this.



The black boards are the vertical ones under your table top.

The blue leg fits in to the gap between the two side boards.

Behind it, there is a 45* brace in red. Purple shows the large screw holding
the leg in place.


It‘s not unbreakable, but it’s pretty strong.

This. Our current dining room table is built this way. It’s not super old but I’ve known it my whole 38yr life thus far and it’s survived my childhood and so far my kiddos haven’t been able to make it warbly.

From what I can see I don’t think the vertical side boards are attached to the legs whatsoever.

 

[DGersic]

How tall is the apron? A 3" - 4" apron should shouldn't need corner blocks if it's glued together mortise and tenon construction.

Valid point for strength of the joint, but removable legs makes getting your table from shop to final destination a lot easier.

 

[jar944]

Valid point for strength of the joint, but removable legs makes getting your table from shop to final destination a lot easier.

Op said the legs would be mortised. I assumed glued as well.

Certainly harder to move, but they are a lot stronger that way.

 

[BTL-A4]

I will be gluing the legs to the posts. I can make the aprons bigger, too.

My question was mainly about whether I needed any bracing toward the bottom of the legs. The plan is to place felt pads on the bottom of the posts to not scratch the hardwood floors and make it easier to slide the table around. I'm concerned about "racking" (the legs collapsing) if there is any weight on the table when force is applied sideways (like when sliding the table around). But, it sounds like this will be strong enough braced at the top from what you're all telling me.

 

[BTL-A4]

How tall is the apron? A 3" - 4" apron should shouldn't need corner blocks if it's glued together mortise and tenon construction.

About 3"-6". I have to check the wood and see what's the widest I can make the boards.

 

[niget2002]

If your legs are glued to the aprons with Mortise and tenons, then I don't see a need for any other bracing. That's how my dad built their breakfast room table and that thing has held up 30+ years.

 

[KenC]

I agree that the apron is probably going to be enough to counteract racking forces if 4" or more. I'd probably make it 5-6" and raise the table an inch or so.

More important is the need for really accurate fits, leg to apron. The diagonal bracing others have pictured at the corners will help also. Most commercial tables have some version of that, but usually they are loose legs, intended to be shipped flat.

 

[LeonardY]

If you feel you need some kind of support. This is what I did for my kitchen table.



You can also do a X brace.
I personally like this style.

 

[BTL-A4]

If you feel you need some kind of support. This is what I did for my kitchen table.



You can also do a X brace.
I personally like this style.

I thought about this, but it gets in the way of pushing in the chairs. The X brace might be okay, but it would still get in the way.

 

[LeonardY]

It's really not bad. If I had made the table a little longer or got chairs that didn't have splayed legs the end chairs would tuck under the table.
The side chairs don't have a problem at all.

My patio table has an x brace. The chair legs on the side hit the brace. The ends don't have a problem.
A single pedestal chair will fit too.