To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Need Advice Mounting a Vise

unclerandy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2014
Messages
54
I'll be mounting a Yost or Ridgid forged vise in the 5" range. My concerns are that the table top is just over 1" pressed wood or MDF with a laminate top. The mounting location will be near the edge and as you can see from the pictures that there is a metal channel support that may interfere with one of the holes and corresponding bolts. I don't have access to metal plate or fabrication. I am fairly good with wood. If steel is "required" or recommended I would try to find a shop near me for whatever might be advised.

I could use some advice on how to mount the vise in regard to bottom and or top support. Thanks.

Bench%202.jpg


Bench%201.jpg


Bench%203.jpg


Bench%204.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

jakemac

Well-known member
Joined
May 21, 2013
Messages
9,035
Location
New England
Threaded T-nuts mounted from under the table.
If they fall on the frame, unbolt the table and lift it to insert the nuts. Then re-bolt the table to the frame.
 

FigureItOut

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 14, 2015
Messages
3,267
Location
Bentonville AR
If your vise has a swivel base you can rotate that template about 30° and miss that channel, but I think you're still going to need to some steel plate. I just mounted my Ridgid on 1" hardwood, and supported it underneath with a square foot of 1/4" plate, and I'm still not exactly happy with it. I think you'll tear up that MDF pretty quick.
 

General Geoff

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
3,872
Location
Allentown, Pennsylvania
I'd get a piece of 1/8" or 3/16" plate steel and have it cut into a circle big enough for the vise mounting holes to go through it. Then drill four holes in a rectangle shape that are all under the swivel base, and also go through the steel support under the bench. Bolt the plate through the bench top and into the steel support underneath, then bolt the vise to the plate. Should be very strong.
 

DHCrocks

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2008
Messages
1,349
Location
Hawaii
I would rotate the base so that two mounts line up over the steel channel and drill thru and use washers and nuts and bolts on those two. For the third, cut a piece of 3/4" plywood over sized (maybe 6"x12" and screw that to the underside of the table and drill thru the table top and plywood and again use washers, nut and bolt. that should spread out and distribute the load.
 

rick carpenter

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,773
Location
Huntsville, East Texas
I mounted my 3-1/2" Craftsman on a 'tongue' cantilevered 3" off the bench. The tongue is 8" wide with a cast iron plate laminated & screwed to plywood laminated & screwed to some lumbercore. I mounted the front bolts of the vice to the tongue, then mounted it to the bench with the back vice bolt and 4 other mounting bolts going through the benchtop.
 

Attachments

  • image1 (3).JPG
    image1 (3).JPG
    66 KB · Views: 145
OP
U

unclerandy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2014
Messages
54
Threaded T-nuts mounted from under the table.
If they fall on the frame, unbolt the table and lift it to insert the nuts. Then re-bolt the table to the frame.

Good idea. I don't mind drilling through the metal u channel support and I think would be stronger than just t-nuts in mdf.
 
OP
U

unclerandy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2014
Messages
54
I would rotate the base so that two mounts line up over the steel channel and drill thru and use washers and nuts and bolts on those two. For the third, cut a piece of 3/4" plywood over sized (maybe 6"x12" and screw that to the underside of the table and drill thru the table top and plywood and again use washers, nut and bolt. that should spread out and distribute the load.

I'll see how this looks. I was trying to avoid losing too much of my work surface and wanted to keep it near the edge. Thanks
 

bobcatdan

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
9,948
Location
Kaukauna,WI
With my old bench which was an actually pretty good basic metal frame and wood top craftsman. I position the vise so three of the four vise mounting bolts passed threw the metal frame. At that point the vise wasn't going anywhere. It did put the vise about 3/16" too far back to clamp a say a 2x4 in the vise pass the the bench top, but only a vise mounting snob would notice.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Muzzy

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2015
Messages
335
Location
Northeast PA
At the last house I had an old press board counter top as a workbench.
I used 3/4" plywood above and below, sandwiching the counter top and it worked fine for a 4" vise. Steel would look more badass though.

I wouldn't hesitate to drill through that frame if I was running a bolt through with ply above and below.
 
OP
U

unclerandy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2014
Messages
54
I have a game plan. I'm gunna go for steel plate. There is a steel target manufacturer close by. I plan to go by their shop and see if they will sell and cut me a square piece of 1/4 steel. Two more small pieces for underneath on each side of the support. If they can't help me out I'll probably go with the 3/4 plywood. Thanks for the ideas and suggestions. I'll keep it updated and take pictures along the way.
 

2oolhound

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
5,918
Location
BC Canada
Further to bobcatdan. The way to determine where to drill the holes to mount a vise is to clamp something in the vise jaws that drops down below the top of your bench. It can be a broom handle or piece od small lumber etc. Swivel the vise so it clears the bench along the side also. An object clamped in the jaws should clear the bench top by 1/4" or so.
 

bobcatdan

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
9,948
Location
Kaukauna,WI
Further to bobcatdan. The way to determine where to drill the holes to mount a vise is to clamp something in the vise jaws that drops down below the top of your bench. It can be a broom handle or piece od small lumber etc. Swivel the vise so it clears the bench along the side also. An object clamped in the jaws should clear the bench top by 1/4" or so.

In a perfect world I would have liked to do that. However with a premade bench, it wasn't the best option. Had I really cared, I could have notch out the bench top had I really wanted to. Positioning the vise correctly would have only aloud for one bolt threw the metal frame instead of three. When I built my hopefully last bench, I designed it around being able to propperly mount both my vises. This included mounting them above the legs.
 

Attachments

  • 20170227_072329.jpg
    20170227_072329.jpg
    154.5 KB · Views: 59

jimreed2160

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2016
Messages
3,589
Location
Tallahassee FL
Mounting method depends on the intended use of the vise. For example, vises used for welding should be mounted on steel instead of wood. Vises that will get pounded need a stout table, etc. In your case, the benchtop is MDF. Judging from the looks of the worktable, I expect your vise will be used for general work. I recommend that you mount it to a wooden sandwich of plywood or construction lumber. Most of my many workshop vises are mounted to wooden bases. There are a few reasons:
1) It is easier to mount a vise to a base than to a bench.
2) Attaching a base to a bench leaves less marks (and holes) on the bench.
3) Moving the vise is easier. Removing it for a special project is easier.
4) Vises are better on corners but bench legs can get in the way of mounting bolts. Mounting base is more flexible.

Bases can be clamped to the benchtop, screwed to the benchtop, or bolted to the benchtop. And a wooden base will be lots easier to build than a base of 1/4" steel.

Good luck with your vise.
 
OP
U

unclerandy

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2014
Messages
54
Vise mounted! I made a template for the top and bottom pieces out of 1/4" MDF. I found a local water jet company and took the templates to them. They duplicated my templates exactly out of 1/4" cold rolled mild steel. I got my hands on a pretty aggressive Scotch-Brite hook and loop disc for my orbital sander and cleaned them up really nice. I clear coated them. Then mounted with grade 5 hardware. Yost FSV-5. I pretty happy with how it turned out.

Vise%20Mount%201.jpg


Vise%20Mount%202.jpg


Vise%20Mount%203.jpg


Vise%20Mount%205.jpg


Vise%20Mount%206.jpg


Vise%20Mount%207.jpg


Vise%20Mount%208.jpg


Vise%20Mount%209.jpg
 

HanShotFirst

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 29, 2015
Messages
846
Location
NW Nevada
Unclerandy...

Perfect idea for the metal reinforcement. Now that you have that well in hand, might I give you some advise that your back will thank you for. If you're going to spend any quality time working on at that vise, then measuring for height is of utmost importance. I'm a gunsmith and most of my work is done at the vise, so this was incredibly important for me; hope you find it useful.

So here's a post I made some months back; can be found here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=357054

I've also just copied it below...


Some Vise tips that have saved me some headaches or backaches...

1 - Measure & Mount your vise correctly!!!

If you spend any real time at the bench vise, this is a tip that will save your back big time!

Here's some images that give you all you really need to know...

Here's how you get the correct height for your vise.
be395c8114aa1b59eec8fd7f517c67ae.jpg

Now of course everyone is a bit different, so this is a guideline. But it's a very good guideline, so as simple as it appears, make use of it and mount your vise correctly. Sadly I learned this lesson WAY too late in my career (gunsmith) and my back has paid the price.

cf1209b73f0a441f505be5deaa1f3d1b.jpg


My general use vise is the import Wilton in this photo. The bench that my vise is mounted to is a little short so I used two 2x10's stacked to make a riser for my vise, and the fit is JUST RIGHT.
IMG_0829_zpshaiaxjnr.jpg


Your back will thank you.
 

PoorOwner

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 10, 2007
Messages
5,032
Location
CA
Well that depends on the object that is clamped? Bigger vise probably lower to work on bigger stuff.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom