Need advice: New foundation not level

[CO.garage]

New member here. I need some help/advice on what I should do to move forward with the project. Concrete has been placed, and appears to be flawed.

Project details/timeline:
-Decided to place a detached 36x26 metal building/garage in backyard of home with alley access (3 overhead doors, 1 man door)
-Finalized a design and ordered the building from a local company (manufactured a few hours north of site)
-Engineered/stamped plans were provided by the building company including foundation requirements (30"D, 12"W footers + 4" slab, 4000psi concrete with rebar and mesh reinforcement)
-I solicited bids for the concrete foundation and picked the middle bid (approx $12k for the concrete portion of the project)
-I checked the laborers work (dimensions) from time to time as it appeared there was no "supervisor" present. There were MANY corrections to the dimensions, most notably the diagonal/squareness of the forms.
-Time and time again, I was told not to worry, everything would be correct. The dimensions would be confirmed, square, compacted, level, etc.

The concrete was placed ~ 1 week ago (Wed 2/3/2021), pumped, hand troweled [no power trowel as promised], expansion joints cut [not straight], no broom finish [as promised], covered with insulation blankets for a few days. The blankets were removed Mon 2/8/2021 as it was warming back up. The concrete is discolored [from the blankets?], I hosed it off and noticed water flowing across the slab. UH OH! A few measurements later, the slab is approx 4-6" out of level on the 36', and 2-3" out of level on the 26'.
I'm beyond pissed. The contractor will not bring a laser level to verify and has been paid approx 80% of the contract amount to date.

The building is now in fabrication (expecting in 3 weeks or so). Soliciting bids for erection of the building when I discovered this...

What should I do? Worth trying to sue? [I don't think he's got anything really to go after financially]. Research now shows that the contractor's listing/license has been delinquent for the past year or so [I did not check this until now]. I was fooled by bogus photos on the contractor's website claiming completion of large commercial concrete projects [Fraud?].

I realize that most of you are not attorneys, but some advice would be helpful... and hopefully help me sleep a bit.

Thanks.

 

[nadogail]

Re: Need advice

IMHO, your contractor probably would want to avoid problems with the authorities who oversee Contractor Licensing.

That could be your "Big Stick".

 

[dcg9381]

Re: Need advice

IMHO, your contractor probably would want to avoid problems with the authorities who oversee Contractor Licensing.

I dunno about Colorado, but "contractor license" does not exist in Texas.
4-6" on a 36" run - wow.. That's a big one... OP, I'd ask him to come look at it, but unless he's actually insured.. Most of these guys here will just walk away rather than make it right, they've got concrete jobs months backed up. Yea, you could sue - which might work, if he has equipment..

I dunno how you fix that.. To cap it, it needs to be at least 2" thick. They do have means to cut and grind the high side, but you'd need to go up another 2"...

I think there was another "disaster pour" post here not too long ago - might take a look at that.

 

[thammel]

Re: Need advice

I once had a 32x36 slab ripped out and re-done because it was so bad. That kink of out of level is totally unacceptable.

 

[CO.garage]

Re: Need advice

Yea, you could sue - which might work, if he has equipment..

I dunno how you fix that.. To cap it, it needs to be at least 2" thick. They do have means to cut and grind the high side, but you'd need to go up another 2"...

He does have a CASE Skid Steer, didn't think about assets until now...

I had read about the cap option, and is now being highly suggested by a family member as "the solution". Maybe it is. It's actually WAY more out of level than originally stated (I just put a laser level on it 30 mins ago to find -10.5" on diagonal). But it's more of MY money. As a direct result of the contractor's screw up. Sounds like I need to get a reputable concrete contractor to give me a quote to cap it. And talk to an attorney as well.

 

[Craig Balzer]

Re: Need advice

Where in Colorado are you?
I can recommend a great concrete contractor in vicinity of the Springs.
They poured my floor (high bay is 36x48 and the attached smaller room is 24x24) and it is l-e-v-e-l.
If interested they also applied epoxy floor covering.
Craig

 

[bczygan]

Re: Need advice

New member here. I need some help/advice on what I should do to move forward with the project. Concrete has been placed, and appears to be flawed.

Project details/timeline:
-Decided to place a detached 36x26 metal building/garage in backyard of home with alley access (3 overhead doors, 1 man door)
-Finalized a design and ordered the building from a local company (manufactured a few hours north of site)
-Engineered/stamped plans were provided by the building company including foundation requirements (30"D, 12"W footers + 4" slab, 4000psi concrete with rebar and mesh reinforcement)
-I solicited bids for the concrete foundation and picked the middle bid (approx $12k for the concrete portion of the project)
-I checked the laborers work (dimensions) from time to time as it appeared there was no "supervisor" present. There were MANY corrections to the dimensions, most notably the diagonal/squareness of the forms.
-Time and time again, I was told not to worry, everything would be correct. The dimensions would be confirmed, square, compacted, level, etc.

The concrete was placed ~ 1 week ago (Wed 2/3/2021), pumped, hand troweled [no power trowel as promised], expansion joints cut [not straight], no broom finish [as promised], covered with insulation blankets for a few days. The blankets were removed Mon 2/8/2021 as it was warming back up. The concrete is discolored [from the blankets?], I hosed it off and noticed water flowing across the slab. UH OH! A few measurements later, the slab is approx 4-6" out of level on the 36', and 2-3" out of level on the 26'.
I'm beyond pissed. The contractor will not bring a laser level to verify and has been paid approx 80% of the contract amount to date.

The building is now in fabrication (expecting in 3 weeks or so). Soliciting bids for erection of the building when I discovered this...

What should I do? Worth trying to sue? [I don't think he's got anything really to go after financially]. Research now shows that the contractor's listing/license has been delinquent for the past year or so [I did not check this until now]. I was fooled by bogus photos on the contractor's website claiming completion of large commercial concrete projects [Fraud?].

I realize that most of you are not attorneys, but some advice would be helpful... and hopefully help me sleep a bit.

Thanks.

Why'd you pay him?

Of course you had him post a bond, right?

And the written contract had all the requirements for the work included?

Time to sue. And report him to the state.

Bill

 

[Augus7us]

Re: Need advice

Welcome to the site and sorry about your troubles.

Laws vary state to state so its hard to say what to do legally. If this were me, the first thing I would do is put a hold on the project. I would definitely not pay this guy any more money and I would let him know that a 4-6" drop across 36' is insane, if true and unacceptable.

If you can't get the guy to come out and perhaps even if you can. You might try a tool rental place, such as sunbelt, and see if you can't rent a self leveling laser transit and verify how bad it is. They are easy to use if you've never used one.

I'm not a concrete guy, but a friend of mine owns a concrete business. No way would he accept this and I know I sure wouldn't. Document everything, post some photos and keep us updated. Sad to say you are not the first person here with this issue.

Good luck

 

[CO.garage]

Re: Need advice

Why'd you pay him?

Because I trusted him to do what a concrete contractor does. Place concrete correctly. I should have held more $, but I'm a softy and gave in when asked for $.

Of course you had him post a bond, right?

Rrrrrriiiiiight...

And the written contract had all the requirements for the work included?

Yes, the accepted estimate (only document received from contractor) explained what would be provided.

Time to sue.

I'm going to give him a chance to correct it. With the help of an engineer to verify the unacceptable state of said foundation. I'm not optimistic. Then will probably have to hire someone else to cap it. Then file suit.

 

[Augus7us]

Re: Need advice

Why'd you pay him?

Of course you had him post a bond, right?

And the written contract had all the requirements for the work included?

Time to sue.

Bill

Bill, he's a new guy so maybe we don't break his balls until he's been around for a while.

The first two questions are because most home owners don't research how to protect yourself from a contractor screwing you over, prior to hiring them. My neighbor just had his 30x40 pad poured and I bet he didn't ask for a bond.

I agree on the contract, hopefully he got something in writing.

Before hiring an attorney I would tell the guy your not going to pay him and you're not satisfied with job and see what he says. Or have you done this already?

 

[CO.garage]

Re: Need advice

You might try a tool rental place, such as sunbelt, and see if you can't rent a self leveling laser transit and verify how bad it is. They are easy to use if you've never used one.

I went out and purchased a 100ft laser level Friday when he did not show up with one as requested. He is unaware that I have done this. I took rough measurements (will take more when it warms up -- it's 0F now). He'll never admit it's unacceptable to me (he thinks I've been overly picky throughout the project -- like when I was adamant that the DIAGONALS MUST BE EQUAL so that the thing is friggin' square -- sigh). That's where the engineer comes into play. Really hoping a letter from the eng. detailing the problems helps motivate the guy. Going to give him the opportunity to fix it (cap it sounds most reasonable as there's already 30 yds of concrete in the foundation -- though it may take 20-25 yds to cap it with 4" above the high-point -- yah, it's that messed up). We'll see.

 

[CO.garage]

Re: Need advice

<deleted>

 

[bczygan]

Re: Need advice

Bill, he's a new guy so maybe we don't break his balls until he's been around for a while.

The first two questions are because most home owners don't research how to protect yourself from a contractor screwing you over, prior to hiring them. My neighbor just had his 30x40 pad poured and I bet he didn't ask for a bond.

I agree on the contract, hopefully he got something in writing.

Before hiring an attorney I would tell the guy your not going to pay him and you're not satisfied with job and see what he says. Or have you done this already?

Yes, Sorry! Didn't see that.

And he does need to offer the guy the opportunity to correct things before he can sue.

I really feel for people who contract for things. The deck is stacked against them unless they have knowledge and experience.

Sounds like an opportunity for someone savvy to offer a course for homeowners.

Bill

 

[Whitworth]

Re: Need advice

It seems he doesn't have a power trowel. He doesn't have a laser level, and he's delinquent in his state license.
All he has is some guys working for him with some shovels, rakes and hoes.

He doesn't have the money to cover the repair work to your slab. I'll bet he has to pay upfront for the concrete because his accounts are all in arrears. That's why he needed 80 percent. Betcha he'll ask for more money to fix it, because he dead broke.

You'll need to find another concrete contractor.

 

[aussieblake]

Re: Need advice

In regards to the concrete cap. If 3-6" of concrete is placed on top of the low side, how much concrete would be on the high side? The cap is important to be installed correctly, yes it might be as simple as attaching forms to the outside of the current slab and the placing and finishing the concrete, but thickness of the overall cap is the biggest concern. If you are hiring an engineer you might as for his recommendations of how to correct the issue. But that might lead to other issues such as does your municipality have a height limitation? What about the anchor points for the building are they in bedded in the current pour? I am thinking more about Longevity of the concrete, if properly prepped and placed concrete is a long term product, but it has to be done correctly or it will cause problems later, maybe 20 years from now but a problem none the less. My concern is if the cap is to thin on the current high side, it could break up, even if you dowel it and apply a bonding agent. concrete has a minimum thickness when being placed. Hopefully your engineer will have ideas or can direct you to an engineer that will design you a solution.

Listen I am a licensed electrical contractor in Oklahoma, here trades like concrete do not have state license for even contractors. I am not sure about Colorado's licensing act, but look up the licensing entity. Also look at the lien laws in your state, and see if the contractor could place a lien on your property. If you and him agree to part ways, whether he completes the work or not, GET A LIEN RELEASE from him, and honestly any contractor who does work for you. Let's say he doesn't pay the concrete bill from his supplier, the supplier might be able to place a lien on your property. Again every state is different.

Always get every detail in writing (even your expectations of square and level), saw cutting can be done when the concrete is fresh or at a later date, saw cuts (control or relief cuts) in fresh concrete is easier but cutting years later is doable, but earlier is better, as concrete cures its going to crack, the cuts control where the cracks are.

Not to throw fuel on the fire, but the concrete discoloration could be several different things, best case, purely cosmetic, maybe concrete from two diffefent bath plants or suppliers, or maybe an excess amount of water was added on site, maybe the mix from the batch plant was wrong (this happens more than you would think even from the best known supplier in your area), Again ask the engineer about testing options. All the investigation costs money, the resolution costs money, remember don't just accept the contractors solution unless you are comfortable with the fix, seek professional help even if just evaluating the contractors WRITTEN corrective action plan.

Ok with all that said, I rarely get a written contract for my work, but I don't pay until I am happy with the work, unless it was something like the metal building requires a deposit before being fabricated (usually only applies or a bolt up building) otherwise its progress payments, don't pay for materials until they are on site, or you pay the vendor directly. But I did a 40x60x12 and didn't have a contract for the concrete contractor and the building installer, they provided and installed the building shell, I had an issue with the building being the wrong pitch of roof with materials were on site, yes I noticed a difference between 2:12 and 3:12 with my eye while the materials were laying on the ground. The contractor said I was wrong, but I had email correspondence that proved I asked and he agreed to provide a 3:12 pitch building. I came out ok, we came up with an amicable resolution, basically lowered the price. But any form of documentation is helpful, and might be considered binding in a court of law. KEEP EVERYTHING email and text, or documents etc.

IF it were me, and a cap was the solution, I would cap it with a minimum of 4" on the current high side so whatever that ends on the low side but no less than 4" (anything less than 4" is hard to utilize saw cuts effectively), I build once and its usually overkill, Dowel or pins to the current slab, Drill hole 1/2" hole, properly install anchoring epoxy and set 3/8" rebar pins 2-3" above the current slab. Honestly the current slab surface might need to be roughed up or etched to increase slab to slab adhesion, after all its a cold joint to a smooth surface.

Saw cuts should be roughly on a 10'x10' grid. Probably too much information, but long story short, get an engineered solution, unless you are comfortable with the fix and resolution, because you have to live with it.

 

[skulldrinker]

Re: Need advice

Ill never understand why people dont take a day off work and be present when work this big is being done.

As a readymix driver for over 20 years i also would of taken cylinders from the job.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[readhead]

Re: Need advice

I have actually erected buildings on slabs that were that bad. In both cases the concrete guy disappeared and the owner couldn’t afford the fix. If you do cap it the anchors will have to go through the cap and into the original slab the correct depth. Also, equal diagonals do not equal square unless the sides are equal lengths. If this is for a cold formed building it is easy to adjust the column lengths for some variation. Best of luck.

 

[WildernessCompound]

Re: Need advice

Ill never understand why people dont take a day off work and be present when work this big is being done.

As a readymix driver for over 20 years i also would of taken cylinders from the job.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

What do you mean "take cylinders"?

 

[lml999]

Re: Need advice - CHANGE YOUR TITLE

Note to OP - it helps to put a specific topic in your title. We're all here for help and advice. Oh, and if you go to advanced editing, you can change your topic...

 

[joes169]

Re: Need advice

What do you mean "take cylinders"?

Test cylinders are generally 6"dia. by 12" deep plastic containers that hold a sample of the concrete. Generally, 3-5 samples are made during the pour and are stored on site for a day or two, and then the tester picks them up and takes them back to the lab and cures them. The samples are tested in a hydraulic press that records the psi applied to each cylinder before it fails. Tests ("breaks" are generally at 7 days, 14 days, and 28 days. If the 28 day break doesn't meet the design concrete strength, it's common to hold a remaining cylinder to 56 days to see if it makes it.

The biggest issue I've long had with test cylinders is that it only tells you when there is a MAJOR issue with the ready mix concrete, and really gives people a false sense of security in thinking that their slab is as strong as the test cylinders. The test cylinders get cured in a plastic tube in the shade for a day or two, and then transferred to a 68 degree water bath until they're tested. Far different curing scenarios that the real world slab out in the environment........

 

[CO.garage]

Re: Need advice

In regards to the concrete cap. If 3-6" of concrete is placed on top of the low side, how much concrete would be on the high side?

Going to give him the opportunity to fix it (cap it sounds most reasonable as there's already 30 yds of concrete in the foundation -- though it may take 20-25 yds to cap it with 4" above the high-point

I never mentioned the low side. 3-6" above high side, agreed. My measurements show it is actually -10" on the low side! Quick math is ~2 degree slope on the diagonal which I guess is not extreme, but was not intentional or requested. I wanted it flat/level.

Ill never understand why people dont take a day off work and be present when work this big is being done.

I was present... but I didn't have a level in hand. Maybe you could, but not sure if most people would notice the 2 degree slope... on the diagonal (that's what latest measurements are showing)

If you do cap it the anchors will have to go through the cap and into the original slab the correct depth. Also, equal diagonals do not equal square unless the sides are equal lengths. If this is for a cold formed building it is easy to adjust the column lengths for some variation.

It is cold formed. I didn't think of adjusting columns lengths. This would be more work for the erector than just following directions, but worth considering I guess. Wonder if local bldg dept. would gripe if the anchors were no longer as originally specified, but epoxied all-thread or the like...

Note to OP - it helps to put a specific topic in your title.

Agreed. I attemped to edit it, but looks like it only changed the first post in this thread.

 

[CO.garage]

Re: Need advice

Update:
The contractor came out Friday afternoon with his laser level to refute my claims of -10.5" out of level slope across the long diagonal. Well... he believes me now. He has admitted fault and is willing to fix it. All of this is verbal so far, so we'll see how this actually progresses.

I suggested 2 solutions, cap it, or curb it.

Contractor is looking into the curb option as it will be the least expensive corrective solution for him. This would basically be a 6-8" wide curb, the perimeter of the slab with no curb at door openings. The "pilasters" (where the metal building columns would anchor) would likely need to be 20-24" to provide meat for the anchors to pass through to the original slab below. This would provide a means to erect the building on something level. This will create some other issues... overhead doors will have to be taller than originally planned, and will need some sort of wedge/threshold to seal across the sloped floor. The majority of the floor would remain out of level (not awesome), but I could place a horizontal drain in the curb at the lowpoint.

I would prefer the cap solution for many reasons, but at this point, at least the guy is now telling me he is willing to fix it.

 

[PWC Repair]

Sooo.........he's going to put lipstick on a pig? Either cap the whole thing, or tear out and redo. I mean, DAMN! I built my own forms and helped a guy who worked at my house after hours, neither one of us contractors, myself never doing something like that, and mine turned out smooth, level, and within 1/4" square corner to corner!

 

[Vahispd]

Too late now, but don't offer solutions - ask the contractor how he/she intends to correct the issue and see if the proposed solution matches what you want.

Did you contact an engineer to see if the curb will suffice for the planned building size? Will the extreme slope affect your planned use of the building?

How is the contractor planning to install a curb without screwing it up like the slab? You stated he felt "square and level" was "picky" which tells you his mindset and level of professionalism. Ask him for the detailed step-by-step plan well before he starts so you can research and provide feedback if he does more half-assery.

Send the contractor an email documenting his visit and what was discussed to generate a paper trail. If he replies you have good correspondence in case things go further south. If he doesn't reply and you can prove the email was delivered, that may be OK to show he didn't dispute what you wrote. Get a recording app on your cell to help document your conversations (if legal in your area).

Also document the changes to the building that his mistake has created, and include the additional cost to help knock down any money he may say you owe. The additional cost for doors etc may wipe out the remaining 20% owed on the botched slab.

 

[Vahispd]

Re: Need advice

Yes, Sorry! Didn't see that.

And he does need to offer the guy the opportunity to correct things before he can sue.

I really feel for people who contract for things. The deck is stacked against them unless they have knowledge and experience.

Sounds like an opportunity for someone savvy to offer a course for homeowners.

Bill

Excellent idea! I've seen a couple generic articles in home improvement magazines that had good info, but nothing as in depth as on here or from real life (costly) experiences. Maybe an idea for a sticky...

 

[Machinitect]

If you end up having them remove the existing work, you may want to ask your engineer to verify the 30” depth. Most of Colorado is 36” frost or concrete to bedrock, or up to 48” in areas like Vail. Too many variables for anyone on a forum to assist. If it were my building I would not accept a fix. Best of luck to you.

 

[joey1320]

"If you want it squared and leveled, there's going top be a 30% upcharge!"


Amazing!

 

[41plym]

Only one right way to fix, remove and replace. Why settle for less?

 

[AP514]

I feel for the OP my House was the same way..come to find out the concrete guys worker had put the Transome(sp)(i think thats what it is called)in the back of the truck and it fell out he never told anyone so the head on the leveler was AFU. My Slab ended up being capped. It added 4 inches to the height.
They Ground off the top layer of Slab and cleaned it. Then Rolled on a bonder before using a micro mess(like finely chopped fiberglass) in the concrete pour to make the cap.
stresssed me way out.....

After the guy fixes your Slab do not pay him the other 20%...for your trouble.
Also if you can record him admiting the error..video or voice.

 

[AP514]

Only one right way to fix, remove and replace. Why settle for less?

Here in Texas and in most States..that ABC Contractor will just walk away if they are to far (upside down doing the fix) and become ABCD Contractor tomorrow.....and you well your stuck ripping out the Slab and paying for another contractor to do a new one....

sure you can try to sue but "You will get nothing even if you Win"

 

[CO.garage]

Did you contact an engineer to see if the curb will suffice for the planned building size? Will the extreme slope affect your planned use of the building?

The contractor has an engineer he is working with (I looked him up, he has a current/valid PE license in CO)... so we'll see what he comes up with.

How is the contractor planning to install a curb without screwing it up like the slab? You stated he felt "square and level" was "picky" which tells you his mindset and level of professionalism. Ask him for the detailed step-by-step plan well before he starts so you can research and provide feedback if he does more half-assery.

Valid point, and something I am already planning for... I am not going to allow work to begin until I have my provided supervisor onsite to oversee/direct their work per whatever the approved engineered solution ends up being

Send the contractor an email documenting his visit and what was discussed to generate a paper trail. If he replies you have good correspondence in case things go further south. If he doesn't reply and you can prove the email was delivered, that may be OK to show he didn't dispute what you wrote. Get a recording app on your cell to help document your conversations (if legal in your area).

I have been documenting everything... many emails/texts on the topic. Nothing from him electronically admitting fault... yet. I'm not willing to record conversations without his knowledge. At the moment he is actively working on "a" solution... I'll vet the solution once proposed.

Also document the changes to the building that his mistake has created, and include the additional cost to help knock down any money he may say you owe. The additional cost for doors etc may wipe out the remaining 20% owed on the botched slab.

I will definitely continue to document any/all financial impacts on the project.
Thanks for your suggestions...

 

[CO.garage]

If you end up having them remove the existing work, you may want to ask your engineer to verify the 30” depth. Most of Colorado is 36” frost or concrete to bedrock, or up to 48” in areas like Vail. Too many variables for anyone on a forum to assist. If it were my building I would not accept a fix. Best of luck to you.

I verified dimensions prior to the placement of concrete. The depth of the footings is 30" (stamped engineered plans approved by local building dept). I also verified the length, width, slab depth, squareness, etc. I did not have an appropriate level on hand to verify. They told me it was level. There was significant material (excavated dirt) around the perimeter of the forms so it was difficult to see the issue until the forms were removed and the material roughly graded.

I appreciate everyone's hard-nosed approach to "not accepting" this or that... but unfortunately, the contractor I am working with is not doing a million in work a year... they're small time, made a pretty big mistake on a relatively small project and have verbally agreed to fix it.
I'm planning to work with them as much as I can to get to a workable solution.

 

[240sxguy]

I verified dimensions prior to the placement of concrete. The depth of the footings is 30" (stamped engineered plans approved by local building dept). I also verified the length, width, slab depth, squareness, etc. I did not have an appropriate level on hand to verify. They told me it was level. There was significant material (excavated dirt) around the perimeter of the forms so it was difficult to see the issue until the forms were removed and the material roughly graded.

I appreciate everyone's hard-nosed approach to "not accepting" this or that... but unfortunately, the contractor I am working with is not doing a million in work a year... they're small time, made a pretty big mistake on a relatively small project and have verbally agreed to fix it.
I'm planning to work with them as much as I can to get to a workable solution.

I'll be the odd man out and say that I'm glad to hear you guys might reach an agreement that, while not ideal, will "fix" things.

 

[CO.garage]

Thx, needed that

 

[FTG-05]

[snip]

I have been documenting everything... many emails/texts on the topic. Nothing from him electronically admitting fault... yet. I'm not willing to record conversations without his knowledge. At the moment he is actively working on "a" solution... I'll vet the solution once proposed.


I will definitely continue to document any/all financial impacts on the project.
Thanks for your suggestions...

Why?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telephone_call_recording_laws

 

[Mainiac Mat]

Major bummer....

FWIW, when I had my 30x26 foundation and slab poured last spring, it was clearly communicated to me that the prep work (marking of corners, leveling of the fill to required grade and marking of the finished grade on the foundation walls) was the GCs responsibility (though often assigned by the GC to the excavation sub).

I believe that most slabs are indeed poured with some pitch (at least 1°). If not over the entirety of the garage floor, then at least at the door ways, as you really don't want rain water flowing back into the building.

We discussed this in detail and I marked my finished grade level for the back 20' and 1°-1.5° for the last 10' to the OHDs.

I was acting as my own GC and spent a LOT of time making sure this was right.

Who prepped your site?

 

[Mainiac Mat]

A couple additional thoughts....
1. attorney is high risk as you will pay big bucks for their services with no guaranty.
2. if construction details were not communicated in writing, I think your chances of winning are iffy.
3. most of these guys don't have any assets that wouldn't be protected in a bankruptcy filing. Your guys skid steer may be leased.
4. lawsuits take time.... a long time.

If the frost walls are level, I'd press on and get the building up, as delaying that will just cost you more money.

If the frost walls are not level, I'd check with the building manufacturer to find out what their tolerances are.... as nothing is truly "perfectly" level.

If your building is erected on an exposed foundation wall, you can likely poor a top layer of concrete after the fact.

Think through what your intended use of the building is and how the grade of the slab will impact that. It may be critical. It may not actually be that big of a deal.

 

[CO.garage]

I believe that most slabs are indeed poured with some pitch (at least 1°). If not over the entirety of the garage floor, then at least at the door ways, as you really don't want rain water flowing back into the building.

That may be true... But you are referring to an intentional, deliberate slope toward a door opening. The diagonal slope I am dealing with was unintentional, and is across door openings...

Who prepped your site?

No other contractors have worked at the site. The concrete contractor started the project on undisturbed soil. They should have known better and recognized that prep was required to get proper grading at the onset.


Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

[SALIV8]

If you don’t get results, contact your states Atty general. They will have an online portal to submit complaints regarding this contractor. They will contact him. And it is free.

I had an owner of a plumbing company threaten to come beat my *** after I filed my complaint and the state Atty contacted them. Lol.

 

[PWC Repair]

So.......anything new on this?