Need advice on a welder for a non-welder

[thool]

First of all, the last type of welding I did was stick back in junior high over 30 years ago.

I have a bunch of old dock stands made from steel tubing. The height of the horizontal is adjusted by bolts running through nuts welded on each end. (Imagine a huge H where the horizontal piece slides up and down.) Unfortunately, a lot of the bolts have busted off, making adjustment impossible. Rather than send them off to be repaired, I'd like to cut off the old nuts and weld in new ones myself.

I'd like to get something that is portable enough for me to load into a truck. It needs to run off 110V AC. I'd rather not have to use any kind of gas, so I'm thinking stick. Material will be steel, up to maybe 12 gauge. Does HF have anything entry-level that would be good for tinkering with? I'd have to get a helmet, gloves, clamps, some sort of apron as well.

Thanks.

 

[73RR]

All 110v welders are for light duty work so 12g just clears the threshold. However, for what you describe, I'll suggest that whatever you buy you spend several hours practicing before 'doing'. You have two additional hurdles: •although they are 110v they most often require a 20amp line; •rod selection will be important so practice, practice, practice.
Among others in my shop, I have a HFT 110v wire feed. For its intended purpose it does an adequate job and I have used it for material heavier than 12g.

 

[jonesg]

Get a small lincoln MIG off craigslist.
Paid $150 for mine, no gas needed, works great.
Used it for 3 yrs and sold it for the same price to a body guy.

HF welders are , ****, plastic drive wheels.
Ok to use once, their welding wire is certified coat hanger.

 

[thool]

Are either of these adequate?
Lincoln Electric ac-225 arc welder for sale - $200
Lincoln Electric Weld Pack 125 HD Wire-Feed Welder - $320

I don't see mention of MIG in these.

 

[isb cornbinder]

Buy Made in USA. Making jobs and keeping America Great starts with you and me buying things made in our countries. If made here costs more, it is probably worth more in quality.
You will be making an investment in your future in North America.
I buy only MILLER blue made in USA.

 

[russ_h]

I started out with a Lincoln weldpak and then upgraded to a Hobart Handler 185 for the better capacity.

One thing to keep in mind with flux core wire, not all wire is equal. I found the ESAB burned far better than anything I've tried. Also if you decide to go with a small Weldpak I found that mine liked the 0.030 wire a lot better than the 0.035. Although it's rated for 035 I don't think it's really up to the task.

 

[LeeG]

MIG is used somewhat interchangeably between Metal Inert Gas and Flux-Cored Arc Welding. Typically, both can use the same wire-feed machine, but with different settings. MIG requires a gas bottle, while FCAW has the shielding gas formed when the flux is burned.

The wire-feed welder is easier for a beginner to use and is far more popular these days.

 

[ducksface]

You'll probably never use it again, or so infrequently as to not matter.
A used welder is a scary thing for the uninitiated. Personally, I don't need to save a hundred or so dollars in a gamble on things I know little to nothing about(as in you not knowing if the thing works correctly when used in your circumstances)

This thread went fan boy and preachy pretty damn quick.

Just buy a hf or eastwood, use it with Flux core wire or buy their stick welder and and when finished with this task set it aside for its very occasional use. Three dollars worth of plastic guide wheels needing replaced at 5000 feet of wire and liners at six or so years of frequent use is not a concern you have.

Easy to warranty, easy to buy easy to use.

 

[gorilla]

Welding rusty 12ga steel could be difficult for a novice welder.

 

[My Old Tools]

Drill a series of holes through the upright an inch or two apart. Drill two in the sliding upright 1.5" apart. Stick a bolt through the holes to set the height.

 

[ducksface]

Welding rusty 12ga steel could be difficult for a novice welder.

While I totally agree and thought to bring this up;
The welding of the nut is of no value other than a nicety when seldomly adjusting the height. A booger weld while ugly, simply holds the nut in place so you don't have to
Two hand/two wrench
The height adjustment.
Not structural, not needed. Just a handy enhancement. If a weld fails, not really a big deal, weld it again.
Ten to twenty viable fixes other than welding, but it's a welder he asked about....
A grinder and through bolts come to mind quickly....
And on a second thought,
Hitch pins don't have threads or nuts....

 

[thool]

Thanks for the replies. Just for some background, the docks go in every May and come out in September. They are in a shared community location near an outlet, so the location, depth, a number of stands varies every year. Sometimes the variances are 8 stands to 15 stands, and the depth varies by a foot anywhere along the length.

So if I can find a small welder to repair mine and those of my neighbors, it would save us a lot of pain. Plus I can find other uses for it.

 

[jimgood]

You said docks. Is the metal partly in the water? I don't know jack **** about welding around water but I'd like to know if there are any concerns with that before combining electricity and water.

 

[thool]

You said docks. Is the metal partly in the water? I don't know jack **** about welding around water but I'd like to know if there are any concerns with that before combining electricity and water.

The docks are wood, and the stands are metal. To install, we position the stands, and then set the height of the horizontal piece. This is usually when we discover the busted bolts. Then we have to scramble to find another one that works, or a frozen one that is the right height.

The stands would be serviced out of the water. I'd cut off the nut, grind the metal, and weld a new nut on with a sacrificial bolt so the threads don't get spattered. Then finish up with a new bolt greased up with anti-seize.

 

[ASHMAN_AZ]

For this particular project could you use a nutsert (Rivet nut)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQH942R/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Hobart 135A or 140A is a good 110V machine, its a cheaper version that is mostly miller parts. Can be gas mig or flux core 035 wire. Good beginner machine. I would not recommend below a 135A machine they are almost useless.

 

[KEH]

The theory of welding is that the two pieces of metal to be joined are heated to the melting point and additional metal, a rod in the case of stick welding and wire in the case of MIG or TIG welding, is added in the absence of oxygen so that the pieces of metal will flow together and not burn. Go to your local library and get a book or books on welding which will tell you more than my simple explanation.

I have almost never used MIG welding, just stick welding, so my comments should be viewed with that in mind. I am in no way critical of MIG or TIG welding, just don't have enough experience with it. BTW, MIG stands for metal inert gas and TIG stands for Tungston inert gas.

Having said all that, The Lincoln 225 amp welder mentioned above and used with 1/8 6011 or 6013 rod will do every thing you are wanting done with no problem. I know, because I have owned and use one for many years. Others mentioned above will do also but I have never used one. You do have to use 220 volt power. Your home surely has 220 volt power in it and getting the services of an electrician should not be expensive. If you are wanting to use the welder on a dock somewhere that has only 110 volt power I don't know the solution, unless you can dissemble the work and take it home or to someone's shop.

KEH

 

[isb cornbinder]

go and rent a proper welder.

 

[sberry]

Buy an inverter stick.

 

[bulldogr6]

If they will be in a garage or workshop where everything can be ground free of rust and contaminants a small wire feeder would work well for tacking on nuts. Key is shiny steel free of rust.

IMO since the bolts seemed to have not worked out I would try something different. Cut off the nut and use a hitch pin that can be hammered out.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

 

[bastage]

Came to read about a welder for a non welder because I want one (no immediate use), but from the sounds of what your doing the hitch pin ideal seems like it would be WAY better in the long run. The rust thats going to happen wont matter nearly as much as the pin will work as well rusty as it will clean. That way the only rusing you gotta worry about is the tubes which wont effect the pin at all.

 

[CNGsaves]

+1 to do something different.

I like hitch pin idea . . . with a twist . .
. . . drill the hole oversize and sleeve it with something PLASTIC so you don't have metal on metal.

 

[sberry]

I would be considering an Everlast Powerarc 140S.

 

[Bert_]

Not going to do much with a 120v welder even a small 240V welder will be leagues better. Chances are getting 240V power isn't that hard, even if you have to hook up a temporary outlet.

Buy an inverter stick.

This is something I have been interested in lately. From what I have seen (only one or two units) they are incredibly small and light. They do look expensive though, not sure what machines you would recommend that is the best bang for your buck. How do they compare to a conventional machine?

Personally I've always preferred an stick welder unless it's for thin sheet metal. I mean I've used both, just never understood the draw to using a wire feed for structural stuff.

 

[sberry]

I need to Lear links,from my phone. The powerarc is a knockoff from Maxstar. The Max is revolutionary as it works so well from 120v. It will run 1/8 lo high on 240 too.

 

[brownbagg]

Are either of these adequate?
Lincoln Electric ac-225 arc welder for sale - $200
Lincoln Electric Weld Pack 125 HD Wire-Feed Welder - $320

I don't see mention of MIG in these.

that ac 225 is about $50 too high

the mig is about $310 too high

 

[JohnnyK8]

You're not going to run the thing every day, no need to go crazy IMHO.

Get a small Eastwood MIG or a used Hobart 140 (or Lincoln if similar size). If you clean up the area you are welding up really well you can get away with flux core vs gas.

Hell even a HF welder will work but don't get the bottom of the line one.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

 

[russ_h]

You'll probably never use it again, or so infrequently as to not matter.
A used welder is a scary thing for the uninitiated. Personally, I don't need to save a hundred or so dollars in a gamble on things I know little to nothing about(as in you not knowing if the thing works correctly when used in your circumstances)

This thread went fanboy and preachy pretty damn quick.

Just buy a hf or Eastwood, use it with Flux core wire or buy their stick welder and when finished with this task set it aside for its very occasional use. Three dollars worth of plastic guide wheels needing to be replaced at 5000 feet of wire and liners at six or so years of frequent use is not a concern you have.

Easy to warranty, easy to buy easy to use.

A small welder is like a drill press, not really necessary but very handy to have.

BTW, bad gun liners are the source of a lot of wire feed welder "problems".

 

[mbshop]

Why are gas welders no longer favored ? They give you sooo much options. Though I rarely need to weld, I still use mine for other things such as rusted bolts and cutting metal. Even at my auto shop the wire welder just collected dust. Basically it depends on your needs but through my whole career I used the gas constantly.

 

[Hop2it]

I recommend the lincoln225 I still have the one I got in about 1966 or67 I still use it to weld thick steel I have Mig for the thinner stuff.if you are looking for an inexpensive Mig I just got a Eastwood 135 to replace a 1985 decca Mig both are 110 volt.
Doug

 

[Crazyjake8493]

For 120 volt power, I would suggest either an AHP Alpha-160ST (stick/TIG) for $250 or so, or the Everlast iMig-140E (MIG/fluxcore) for $350 or so. Last time I checked the iMig140 had metal drive wheels, most in that price range are plastic.

 

[88notchback]

For a 110v mig welder I would go Millermatic all the way. Either the 125 or 141 will work great and have a aluminum spool gun that you can put on the 141. If you want a rig go with the miller maxstar 160.

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

I am a novice welder. Just started playing with it a couple of months ago. I did not want to use gas.

I bought a Lincoln 135 that I am using with flux-core wire. I love it. Highly recommend it for a novice.

 

[jonesg]

Why are gas welders no longer favored ? They give you sooo much options. Though I rarely need to weld, I still use mine for other things such as rusted bolts and cutting metal. Even at my auto shop the wire welder just collected dust. Basically it depends on your needs but through my whole career I used the gas constantly.

uhh, because they actually require SKILL.
WISH I had a set, a torch is very handy when working on cars.

I was trying to remove the tie rod from my one ton van, no way it was moving.
My mechanic neighbor dragged his oxy/acetylene rig out, got it glowing bright red and it unscrewed like it was buttered. Always wanted a torch since .

 

[Markfothebeast]

I am an entry level welder with 2 years of experience using only my own welder which is a Lincoln Weld Pak 88 amp flux core wire feeder from Home Depot. Cost me $230 and I believe the price is still the same.

I finally got a Miller stick welder which i like but it is not as portable or convenient to use. The little Lincoln 88 amp flux core burns HOT enough to go through 12g steel. The only problem I see with flux core is that some guys are looking for show quality welds, which you won't get.

It holds steel together very well. That was my simple objective. I did **** looking welds and NOT ONE has ever broken under hundreds, if not thousands of lbs.

Basic portable flux core welders are fine. Guys with gas welders are looking for good looking welds. Flux core penetrates hot enough but does not create a weld that will impressive your buddies.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Kaizen]

You're not going to run the thing every day, no need to go crazy IMHO.

Get a small Eastwood MIG or a used Hobart 140 (or Lincoln if similar size). If you clean up the area you are welding up really well you can get away with flux core vs gas.

Hell even a HF welder will work but don't get the bottom of the line one.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

I'm in the 110 club. Yea 220 does heavy stuff easier if you're doing that all the time but for me my Eastwood 135 has served me well for 300 bucks delivered. Use gas doing body panels. Use flux core .030 for stuff like this rotisserie. 1/8 inch wall no problem. 1/4 inch in 3 passes. 1/2 inch was just for bracing so 3 passes got it stuck. Not recommended for structure. The braces on this design are overkill.
I hadn't cleaned up and made pretty yet. I ain't gonna lie that 1800 stick/tig/mig miller is pushing now does make me drool.

 

[AndyA]

Buy an inverter stick.

I have the Esab miniarc 161. Excellent welder. The stick package can be bought new from cyberweld for $480. It runs on 230v and 115v, and includes the power cable adapters.

This machine also will do lift-arc tig. You will have to buy the extra equipment: argon tank, tig torch with valve, and a regulator. But it's a nice upgrade path.

The good:
nice stick arc.
runs 6010 without problems
nice tig arc
18 lbs
name brand, excellent operation, decent price

The bad:
no foot pedal for tig (amps are controlled by the front panel knob)
no tig HF start, it's lift-arc only
no gas solenoid, you need the tig torch with valve.
cheap feeling plastic covering on the cables (rather than the nice thick pliant rubber)

When I bought this I was also looking at the miller maxstar. At roughly half the price of the cheapest maxstar, the choice was easy. I did not consider any of the off-brands.

 

[mike93lx]

Didn't see it mentioned yet... If the metal is galvanized, grind it ALL off near the repair before welding. The fumes are extremely poisonous.

 

[G-ManBart]

An Everlast PowerArc 140ST will do what you need and not break the bank. I had a PowerArc 200ST before trading it in to upgrade to a PowerTig 210EXT and I thought the 200ST had a great arc.

I will say that inverter welders run hotter than a transformer machine for the same listed amps. In other words, if you need 100amps on a DC transformer machine, you probably only need 80amps on the inverter setup.

The auto-adaptive hot start and arc force are really handy for inexperienced welders.

If you call Everlast you'll usually get a better price than is listed on their website or on eBay.

http://www.everlastgenerators.com/product/tig-stick/powerarc-140st

 

[sberry]

I would like to test one sometime. That is a lot of poop for 300$, dvi to boot.

 

[bczygan]

I would be considering an Everlast Powerarc 140S.

Sberry,

Do you have knowledge of, or experience with this welder?

There has been a sea change in available welders with the inverter types. I wonder what your take on them is.

What would be you welder or welders for a homeowner who wants a wide array of processes and capabilities available.

Bill