need advice on deadbolt reinforcement

[Cobra6]

I am attaching a pic of the inside of my door - I want to reinforce the deadbolt - I am thinking about running a piece of galvanized pipe through the door frame and at the stud as a sleeve for the deadbolt to go into.

This should keep "hard knock" from getting through the door -

What is everyone else doing for this? any ideas? thanks

 

[rickairmedic]

Personally I would put a piece of 1/8" plate on the stud about 3' long and about 2" wide and call it good.


Rick

 

[contactme_11]

Get a strip of 1/4 steel a couple feet long and screw it on the inside face surface of you door framing (the 2 2xs nailed together). much stronger.

 

[PassnThru]

Three + inch screws securing the deadbolt strikeplate to the jack and king studs. If you're worried about the jamb splitting out then a board secured to the back side of the jamb and the jack and king studs.
Of course, then they'll just break a window or pry the garage door back or use a cordless sawzall to make a hole in the wall or......

 

[Greatbear]

I used a 3/16" piece of aluminum about 16" long and 4" wide for my man door deadbolt/entry set, in addition to high-strength strikes for the locks that use 4 screws each to mount. That being said, you can reinforce the heck out of the jamb and frame, but then the weak point becomes the door itself. You can build or buy a wrap-around reinforcement to help alleviate this somewhat, but it's not infallible. It just slows down a determined thief, or makes them consider alternate entry points.

 

[kaffine]

I used this to reinforce my door.

http://www.armorconcepts.com/EZ-Armor-Combo?sc=2&category=2728

 

[ddawg16]

I wouldn't do anything....If someone wants in, the will get in....usually through a window.

Reinforce it.....and when the kick it in...it destroys the door jamb....much harder to repair....and they still get in.

 

[cowboyjosh]

I second the Armor Concepts link above. I have seen that at a home show demonstration and was kind of impressed. Otherwise, if the Armor isn't your thing, I wouldn't do a thing other then to have a security system with a loud *** siren.

 

[pcmeiners]

I reinforced the doors on my mom's house , basically a 3"x12" (1/8"?) steel plate on the studs as mentioned. I also placed auto body filler in the lock strike area between studs and jam (filled), 4" long screws in strike plates and hinges. Had a fire in the house which necessitated 2 fireman on a steel ram to break the door door down. Door caved in the center before the lock strikes pulled out from the strike plates. The comment was "who the F* put that door in ?". There was no reinforcement on the door itself, but this was an older Stanley steel clad thermal, with decent wood in the lock area, newer doors are not as strong in this area.

Pipe a nice idea but once drilled it will be very close to the surface of the studs and will give way.

 

[Daddy_Rabbit]

I agree with DDawg ... a locked door only keeps the honest folks out.

 

[MoToys]

Three + inch screws securing the deadbolt strikeplate to the jack and king studs. If you're worried about the jamb splitting out then a board secured to the back side of the jamb and the jack and king studs.
Of course, then they'll just break a window or pry the garage door back or use a cordless sawzall to make a hole in the wall or......

Good advice, security is about layers not beefing up one door.
I would also steer clear of home dump and Lowes schlage line of locks, they ****. Put on some good locks and get an alarm.

 

[MoToys]

I reinforced the doors on my mom's house , basically a 3"x12" (1/8"?) steel plate on the studs as mentioned. I also placed auto body filler in the lock strike area between studs and jam (filled), 4" long screws in strike plates and hinges. Had a fire in the house which necessitated 2 fireman on a steel ram to break the door door down. Door caved in the center before the lock strikes pulled out from the strike plates. The comment was "who the F* put that door in ?". There was no reinforcement on the door itself, but this was an older Stanley steel clad thermal, with decent wood in the lock area, newer doors are not as strong in this area.

Pipe a nice idea but once drilled it will be very close to the surface of the studs and will give way.

Most doors that are made well have a lot of beef in the middle, that is why it is standard to cut a deadbolt 5 1/2" on center from the knob and not all the way up the door.

 

[Cobra6]

Good tips - I don't have any windows dowstairs, and the garage doors are tough to get into, so the man door is my weakest point for a quick crash and grab.
I think any prolonged effort in my neighorhood would draw too much attention, but you never know.

 

[HemiRambler]

The logic to do nothing doesn't makes no sense to me -to each their own. What does make sense for me --> Build it stout!! First off I tossed that "consumer grade" man door in the trash where it belongs! I put in a heavy steel commercial man door. You can pick these up CHEAP in the surplus market - I've seen them range as low as 10 dollars - without a jam. I have a single window - It is framed in 1/4 X 3" stainless and is then "barred" with 3/4" stainless rounds. The main car door is also a commercial unit - roll up variety. It has it's cons (insulation) but overall I like it. I do agree that any determined thief will still break in - but I'd like to think I have tilted the odds a bit in my favor. I also think by upgrading - you can entirely avoid the "punk" kids looking for an easy score. I worked hard for my stuff - no sense in making it easy for someone else to take it from me.

 

[toolman1967]

I installed a 1/4 inch thick 2x2 angle iron to the side of my door jamb. Makes me feel better anyway.

 

[djjsr]

IMO, the best option is to replace that door with a steel door with a steel frame. I had a steel door on my workshop and it was VERY strong. Unfortunately, the bottom of the door rusted out after 30 years and I replaced it with a fiberglass door as a quick fix. But even with the steel frame, I know that fiberglass door is not nearly as good and I plan to replace it again with a new steel door.

 

[theoldwizard1]

They sell a large. reinforced strike plate with extra long screws at HD/Lowes or any locksmith. Looks decent.

If you want real security, replace the door and jamb with a commercial steel door and steel jamb. Very expensive.

As others have said, no lock will keep every burglar out. You just need to make it difficult enough so that that vast majority of them will try some place else.

 

[KCarGuy]

The first house that i had bought was in a rougher neighborhood. The garage had been "beefed up' by the prior owner.
All the windows and doors had steel angle iron around them, all welded nicely. the lag bolts were even welded after being tightened.
The windows had rebar welded as "Bars"to the metal framework. Still allowing me to reach in and open the windows for fresh air. And the door itself was a solid wood door that was "Framed" in angle iron.
This way it would open and close nicely, but once closed...the angle iron would match up and a metal bar would drop into Matching brackets to prevent anyone forcing them selves in.
It was a Hell-of-a-setup. I lived there 10 years and never had a problem.

 

[Painter123]

I had to replace the original door to the shop on my house when I moved in cause the door had been kicked in (house was empty for 2 years)
I used a 3.0x7.6 commercial steel door and jamb
I made it swing out of the shop instead of into the shop
You would probably have an easier time cutting a hole in the side of the house than kicking in the new door

 

[HemiRambler]

Yes if you buy NEW they are quite expensive. Around me - I have passed on dozens of them for CHEAP!! I got mine for FREE out of the dumpster. I've been to several auctions and seen them CHEAP!! I see them at the Industrial surplus places for VERY reasonable prices. Harder to get the used ones with the frame, but if you're patient - you can get the whole shaboodle.

Just gotta shake those branches a little...

If you want real security, replace the door and jamb with a commercial steel door and steel jamb. Very expensive.

 

[toolman1967]

Lots of good thoughts, I read an article in GSM and it talked about making your place as uninviting as possible. Lots of outside lights and no windows available to peekers. Make them think that the whole world can see them break in.

 

[colt340]

Here's what i did. I hope it never has to be tested.

 

[REAL HOT SCHITT]

Hi, have i got an idea 4 you?.. Have a look at the lock mechanism on shipping containers, that locks the doors shut u can make something smaller.

They are invented / made by the english company called "bloxwich"

 

[wssix99]

IMO, the best option is to replace that door with a steel door with a steel frame. I had a steel door on my workshop and it was VERY strong. Unfortunately, the bottom of the door rusted out after 30 years and I replaced it with a fiberglass door as a quick fix. But even with the steel frame, I know that fiberglass door is not nearly as good and I plan to replace it again with a new steel door.

+1. The weak point in the door is the jamb. (You can split a wood jamb with a child's hammer.) The pipe idea might work if its securely attached to the studs. A steal frame will give the most strength. As long as it isn't hollow or made of foam, it doesn't matter too much what the door is made out of.

 

[Hosalabad]

Here's what i did. I hope it never has to be tested.

Did you replace the screws in the hinges? A kick to the hinge side would get it open too with stock screws.

 

[Xsapper041]

25 posts before someone hit on something that many overlook ...

every non-professional out there spends all kinds of time and money reinforcing locks and deadbolts, on the other side of the coin - no professional trying to get in will even look at the lock side of the door ...they'll hit the hinge

 

[Stuart in MN]

no professional trying to get in will even look at the lock side of the door ...they'll hit the hinge

Unless the door swings out, so the hinges are exposed, the door jamb on the lock side is the most vulnerable part of the door. I've had two separate breakins, and they kicked in the door on the lock side.

 

[MoToys]

25 posts before someone hit on something that many overlook ...

every non-professional out there spends all kinds of time and money reinforcing locks and deadbolts, on the other side of the coin - no professional trying to get in will even look at the lock side of the door ...they'll hit the hinge

Unless the door swings out, so the hinges are exposed, the door jamb on the lock side is the most vulnerable part of the door. I've had two separate breakins, and they kicked in the door on the lock side.

Criminals that are breaking into someone's garage are not the "italian job" type thieves. Instead they are the smash and grab type. With that said, a few longer screws in your hinges (or pin retaining hinges in addition) can not hurt but is not the Achilles heel of a door. Make the job too much of an effort for them and you wont have a break-in.

 

[digdug18]

The deadbolt is the hardest part to open, the hinge side is the easiest. There are ways that you can make your door secure, but it will take a couple of hours atleast. I worked as a lock and safe installer for a company for 3 years, so I learned some things there. A metal skinned door or full metal door is ideal, but if you want to reinforce the door you have. I outlined what you should do below.

1. reinforce the bottom plate on each side of the door with rebar or studs going into the concrete

2. the striker area need to be replaced as well, with atleast 3" screws, you also need a reinforced striker, one that is a complete cup, and has 4 or so places for screws.

3. I'm guessing the door is a solid wood door. from the lock area on the door itself, up and down from the door you need to place 8" or so 3/16" hardened steel rods(drill rod). Spaced about 1.5"-2" apart, make the hole slightly bigger then they need to be so that the drill rod can slightly spin in the hole, seal the rods in the hole as well, with plugs. So if someone tries to cut through the door it will be much harder. it also makes the size of area greater for an impact on the door.

4. have a stop on the inside at the top and bottom of the door, also reinforced to concrete on the bottom, and long screw into the wood in the top. Reinforce the top with a steel plate on the inside of the wood, attached at both side to the door studs.

5. remove the screws from the hinges and use 3" screws into the double studs, at the top and bottom hinge remove 2 screws that line up with eachother at each of the hinges. Take a long nail, put it in the screw hole, leave about 1/4 sticking out from the hinge hole, cut the head off. When closed the headless nail should fit inside the other matching hinge hole, so that if someone kicks in the door the pressure is applied to the nail, not to the hinge. The hinge isn't designed to bend in that way when kicked, pulling the screws out of that side.

6. If you have a garage door opener, shorten the emergency release so that the handle is directly at the release mechanism. They make tools that go under the garage door and latch onto the garage door emergency pull.

7. If I was very worried as well about people coming through the side of the door, the exterior siding, I'd add cement board on the inside studs. You also need to consider your roof access, if you have a vent at the end of your roof that is easily removable. Or if you have a door to your house and such.

8. Any unexposed areas of your house need either motion sensors or cameras, or both. Depending on what is in your house and your garage. Remove high bushes, low trees, or other areas that would hide the rear of your house from other houses.

 

[ITSANSS]

This is all ya' need, little fella'.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Unless the door swings out, so the hinges are exposed, the door jamb on the lock side is the most vulnerable part of the door. I've had two separate breakins, and they kicked in the door on the lock side.

Take it from a professional (not a burglar; my son-in-law is the cop who busts down the door with a ram on a drug raid). Lock side.

 

[theoldwizard1]

This is all ya' need, little fella'.

Years ago, the store that my Dad ran was broken into. Steel commercial door set in a steel frame. They must have used really big crowbars.

When it was replaced, he added 4 heavy duty slide bolts; left, right near the top and near the bottom. They would have to work on that all night to get in !

 

[theoldwizard1]

A door that swings out with a properly reinforced stops is a great alternative., although you need special hinges. A couple of good options are

• Non-removable pin - Well, actually it is removable if the door is open. There is a set screw in the barrel which intercepts a groove in the pin. The set screw is not accessible when door is closed.

• Security stud - With the door in its closed position, a stud attached to one leaf of the hinge projects into a hole in the matching leaf. The door can nor be removed even if the pin is removed.

 

[kmacht]

Good advice, security is about layers not beefing up one door.
I would also steer clear of home dump and Lowes schlage line of locks, they ****. Put on some good locks and get an alarm.

I absolutely agree with the statement above. Spend the extra money and buy a decent set of locks. I recently locked myself out of the house (don't ask how). Luckily I still had access to the garage and tools in there. My back door had the cheap Kwikset type of lock on it from HD. It took about 20 seconds with a cordless drill to drill out the center of the lock where you would put the key in. After drilling it I just used a screwdriver like a key and unlocked the door. The fricking lock center was made out of aluminum. If someone wanted to break in drilling out the lock would have been much quicker and quieter than kicking in a door or breaking a window. The moral of this story is, make sure you buy a decent lock with the center portion at least made out of hardened stainless, otherwise you are wasting your money re-enforcing the rest of the door.

Keith

 

[Nick M]

I see a lot of "Get a good deadbolt not Lowes/Home depot stuff." I agree they are junk, but what brands/lines are heavy duty? I'd like to purchase off amazon or something like that.

 

[MoToys]

Mul-t-lock is my recomendation. They are a high security key way and have a hardened steel pin driven down the face of the lock so that you can not drill it. They also have a really nice key retaining double cylinder deadbolt.
Other options would be medeco or assa abloy. Personally I like mul-t-lock, check their USA website.